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PINOT NOIR 2024: SONOMA COUNTY EMERGES AS PREMIER PINOT NOIR PRODUCER

Sonoma County may be the most diverse wine region in California. But over the last couple decades, as growers and winemakers realized its cool climate sites, most notably the western and southern reaches of the Russian River Valley, tend to produce outstanding pinot noir grapes. The proximity to bodies of water – the river and the ocean – and associated fog and cool breezes, ensure long ripening seasons and optimum flavor development.

Wines in this column are listed in order of my preference but all are highly recommended.

2021 Paul Hobbs George Menini Estate ($95) From one of the most prestigious wineries in the world, this is the inaugural release from this vineyard, acquired in 2012. Located in the Sebastopol Hills in the southwest region of the Russian River Valley. This Pinot deftly balances juicy acidity with supple tannins and savory nuance with bright fruit.

2021 Chappellet Apple Lane Vineyard “Three Blocks” ($70) From a winery that has been producing highly prized Napa Valley wines since 1967, its Grower’s Collection presents single vineyard wines from selected, highly respected growers in Sonoma County. This vineyard is in the Green Valley subregion and the wine is a special selection of the most prized vineyard blocks. Beautiful red fruits, baking spices, herbal notes, luscious texture.

2019 DuMOL Estate Vineyard ($75) Also known as the Coffee Lane Vineyard, this coastal ridge top property the Green Valley district – with its cooling breezes and proximity to the fog that make it the coolest area in the Russian River Valley – consistently produces fine wines. And with high-density planting, this means higher acidity, tannin and ageability, concentration dense texture, nuance and depth, balanced by vibrant acidity

2019 En Route Les Pommiers ($60) Founded by the highly respected Napa winery Far Niente, this wine sources grapes from top vineyards throughout the valley. This results in a deep, rich, savory wine of ripe red fruits and enticing baking spices.

2019 Inman Family Wines OGV Estate ($75) Dedicated to “eco ethics”– sensitive farming, low intervention winemaking and environmentally responsible business practices, it’s no surprise the Olivet Grange Vineyard (OGV) located in the Santa Rosa Plain neighborhood of the Russian River Valley has been farmed organically since purchased in 1999. Made without any additions to the juice and fermented with the native yeast and naturally available malolactic bacteria. This yields a wine of fresh red berries, focus, and earth, minerality, and savory spice.

2019 Lynmar Estate Quail Hill Vineyard ($76) With a four-decade legacy rooted in stewardship, community, and purpose, Lynmar’s sustainably farmed estate Quail Hill Vineyard has produced a generous wine of juicy dark fruits, forest, tea and mushroom notes.

2021 Rodney Strong Reserve ($60) Family-owned since 1959, this Sonoma pioneer makes consistently exceptional wines and is distinguished for its commitment to the community and sustainability practices. Expect red fruits, baking spices, and fresh tannins.

2021 Naidu Wines Russian River Valley ($60) This is the first Indian immigrant, female-founded and operated winery in the United States. With a focus on single vineyard, single variety wines sustainably made using minimal intervention winemaking, this wine is sourced from their estate vineyard and the Marshall Ranch Vineyard. Expect intense cherry and plum, firm impact, an earthy, loamy note, and focused freshness.

2019 Emeritus Hallberg Ranch ($48) In 1999, after selling his iconic Sonoma–Cutrer Vineyards, Brice Cutrer Jones founded Emeritus with the singular focus on estate grown Pinot Noir. The dry farmed Hallberg Ranch in Green Valley has yielded a wine of bright red fruits, floral notes, light spice, and fine-grained tannins.

2021 Cherry Pie Huckleberry Snodgrass Vineyard ($58) Cherry Pie wines are a collection of single and multi-vineyard Pinot Noirs from top microclimates, farmed sustainably and vinified with minimal interference. This vineyard produced racy red fruits and floral notes, while the winemaking encouraged the openness and smooth tannins of the finished wine.

2021 Sonoma-Cutrer ($36) This 43-year-old winery, led by an all-female winemaking team, produces certified sustainable wines. This one is elegant with red berries, cola, savory spices, black tea, earth, and vanilla notes.

Straddling southern Napa and Sonoma, Carneros is mostly distinguished by the cooling influences of the San Pablo Bay and Pacific Ocean. Officially recognized in 1983 the region is defined not just by geology but by its unique climatic characteristics: foggy mornings and breezy, sun-soaked afternoons.

2021 Cherry Pie Toro Hills ($55) Part of the historic Donnell Ranch property located in the southwestern corner of Carneros-Sonoma County, now managed by the famed Sangiacomo family, this wine shows vibrant fruit, dried herbs, cola, mocha, and a touch of spice delivered on a rich palate.

2019 Sean Walker McBride Aisling Vineyard “Old Vine” ($42) From Napa’s Crosby Roamann winery whose single vineyard selections are released under the winemaker’s eponymous label, this is an organic Carneros-Sonoma vineyard. The Aisling Vineyard, Los Carneros, Sonoma is an organic old vine pinot noir vineyard. This wine opens with red fruits, hints of spicy pepper, clove and earthy notes.

Featured Image Courtesy of Inman Family Wines

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PINOT NOIR 2024: TOP QUALITY WEST COAST WINES

 World class Pinot Noir is consistently available these days from various regions in California and Oregon. Because it is especially transparent of the site in which it is grown, many wineries’ best, most distinctive wines are single vineyard or estate grown expressions from the coolest sites. I have organized my recommendations by appellation and listed the wines in order of my preference within each appellation.

Each wine reflects the grape’s signature characteristics of red berry fruit, though dark fruits peak in occasionally. Earthy, mushroom, herbal and even floral, mint or anise notes also appear. Creaminess and baking spices from oak add complexity. 

Oregon’s Willamette Valley, whose Coast Range moderates the cooling Pacific Ocean and Cascade Mountains chill the desert heat of Eastern Oregon, has become Pinot Noir nirvana. Try the 2021 Archery Summit Dundee Hills ($65). Established in 1993 by the owners of Napa Valley’s Pine Ridge in one of Oregon’s most sought-after appellations, this shows lively red and black fruit accented with cocoa, minerally spice, and graceful tannins.

Mendocino County’s Anderson Valley, heavily influenced by the nearby Pacific Coast, fog-cooled hillside and mountain terrain yields wines of focus and nuance. Here are three fine examples of why this region should get more attention from consumers.

  • 2019 Domaine Anderson Estate ($55) part of the Louis Roederer portfolio, blended from two certified organic vineyards; bright red fruit, enticing savory notes blended from two certified organic- vineyards.
  • 2020 FEL “Savoy Vineyard” ($75) part of the Clif Lede portfolio, FEL’s home vineyard and flagship wine; notable for polished texture and silky tannins
  • 2020 MacRostie “Day Ranch” ($58) vineyard on an alluvial terrace nestled against a mountainside at the coolest northern most edge of the Anderson Valley; aromatic, complex, dense, black and red fruits, new oak richness, luxurious cocoa, earth, solid backbone of acidity

The Sonoma Coast is too large and diverse an appellation – it spans the county from the wind-swept northern coast to the rolling hills of the southern dairy farms – to generalize attributes except to say most vineyards experience extremely cool Pacific winds and fog. And that many of California’s most celebrated Pinot Noir and Chardonnay are sources from Sonoma Coast vineyards and its many sub-appellations. The Freestone AVA, a sheltered, pastoral valley, is the source for the 2021 Joseph Phelps “Freestone Vineyards” ($70).  From two hillside estate vineyards, it is vibrant lively, with succulent red berries, savory spice, earth, bright acid structure.

Just to the south of Monterey, San Louis Obispo County is gaining more attention for its wine regions, including Paso Robles, Arroyo Grande and Edna Valley, which have emerged in the past two decades as world class viticultural areas. The 2020 Chamisal Estate Grown “Morrito” ($100) is from a special block of the estate hillside vineyard in the Edna Valley; it has floral aromatics, tart red fruits, and engaging mushroom accents.

The Sta. Rita Hills, in southern Santa Barbara County, is a small, transverse valley that funnels cool ocean breezes layers of marine fog over the vineyards, which are bounded by the Purisma Hills to the north and the Santa Rosa Hills to the south. It is widely considered to be the source of many of Santa Barbara’s finest Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. The Hilt Estate and Alma Rosa Winery provide fine evidence of this. 

The 2021 The Hilt Estate ($50) is located in an oceanic, sun-drenched, windy corner of Sta. Rita Hills, encompassing abrupt hills, jagged peaks and fog-blanketed canyons. Sourced from estate vineyards, Radian and Bentrock, this wine reflects the various grape clones and soil types of the estate. It reveals fine red berry fruit, earth and spice tones, and powdery tannins.

Alma Rosa Winery is situated on the north-facing slopes of the Santa Rosa Hills. Founded in 2005 by Richard Sanford, the first to plant pinot noir in this area in 1971, the sustainably farmed property is now owned by Bob and Barb Zorich. Of course, they specialize in Pinot Noir but also Chardonnay and Rhone varieties. These single vineyard pinots benefit from judicious use of oak and are bottled unfined and unfiltered. 

  • 2021 El Jabali ($90) Alma Rosa’s certified orgnic estate vineyard, vibrant, silky 
  • 2021 Rancho La Viña ($82) located in the southwest corridor of the Sta. Rita Hills; rich dark fruits, racy acidity yet smooth texture
  • 2021 La Encantada ($82) just seven miles from the ocean, organically farmed, delicate juicy fruit, bright acidity, chalky tannins, spicy finish 

NOTE: Featured image courtesy of MacRostie Vineyards.

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WALLET A BIT LIGHT AFTER THE HOLIDAYS?

Now that the holidays are past, I tend to look for value wines to ease my already light wallet. While that usually means budget friendly wines ideal for everyday drinking, it also can mean wines that over deliver quality for the price. Lately, I have settled on these brands as reliable options.

Métier. This is a new line of wines from DeLille Cellars, one of Washington’s best wineries. These wines are exemplary of the approachability and excellence of Washington State wine and the Columbia Valley AVA. They are designed at a more approachable price point: brisk Sauvignon Blanc ($20), intriguing Red Blend ($25), and bold Cabernet Sauvignon ($30).

J.Lohr. The J. Lohr Estates tier from this Central Coast winegrower since1974 features an extensive array of good values from certified sustainable estate grown vineyards. My current favorites are: 2022 Wildflower Valdiguié ($13) a grape with origins in France’s Languedoc, made in a Beaujolais style; the sleek 2021 Falcon’s Perch Pinot Noir ($17); and the lively 2021 Pure Paso® Proprietary Red Wine – cabernet sauvignon, petite sirah blend ($27). Among the whites, look for three 2021 Chardonnays from Monterey’s Arroyo Seco AVA – Riverstone ($14), Arroyo Vista ($25) and the single vineyard October Night ($25).

The Mill Keeper. An offshoot of Napa Valley’s Gamble Family Vineyards, Mill Keeper wines are built on long term relationships with farmers to source fruit from generational vineyards and preserve family-owned farms. The multivintage supple Cabernet Sauvignon ($26) and bright Chardonnay ($24), and crisp Bordeaux blend 2022 Rosé ($21) are fine choices.

Landmark “Overlook”. Sonoma Valley based Landmark Vineyards has been dedicated to producing handcrafted, ultra-premium wines sourcing grapes from unique vineyard sites throughout California since 1974. The “Overlook” line (2021, $27): Pinot Noir – blend of Monterey, Santa Barbara and Sonoma regions – and Chardonnay – sourced from top Sonoma County vineyards, including Petaluma Gap, Carneros and Russian River Valley.

True Myth. Located in the heart of the Central Coast, True Myth sources grapes from such fine AVAs as Paso Robles – 2020 Cabernet Sauvignon ($24) – and Edna Valley – 2022 Pinot Noir San Luis Obispo ($28). True Myth also supports the Pollinator Partnership in efforts to protect the endangered pollinators.

Textbook. We all know how expensive Napa Valley wines are but Textbook produces some fine values from Napa fruit, like its lush 2021 Chardonnay ($27) and its structured 2020 Cabernet Sauvignon ($40). And its 2021 Cabernet Sauvignon Paso Robles ($27) also is flavorful and appealing for the price.

Chronic Cellars. This winery is committed to showcasing the appealing quality of Paso Robles fruit with playful, eye-catching labels. Check out these 2021s ($17): the dark fruits of the Cabernet Sauvignon “Sir Real”, the power of the Petite Sirah “Suite Petite”, and the enticing 2021 Red Blend “Purple Paradise”.

NOTE: Featured image is courtesy of Textbook Vineyards.

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CHAMPAGNE ALTERNATIVES FOR DRINKING ALL YEAR

While sparkling wine is the wine of choice for special occasions, bubbly can be enjoyed any time and on any occasion. Champagne, with its bottle fermentation method yielding impressive complexity, intensity and ability to improve with age, has become the benchmark for producers and consumers. But you likely will want a sparkler that doesn’t carry the price tag of Champagne.

Luckily, interesting, delicious and affordable sparkling wine is made just about everywhere on the planet. Often the Champagne grape varieties of pinot noir, chardonnay and pinot meunier are used, though many experiment with other varieties. I offer several from Italy, a couple from France and several from California to give you a head start.

But it also is quite expensive and that has spurred other producers to find ways to make Champagne (also known as traditional) method bubbly at (usually) more accessible prices. Some seek to emulate Champagne so much that they use the same grape varieties (various combinations of pinot noir, chardonnay and pinot meunier), though many experiment with other varieties. They often also produce the fizz using the same method, variously described as Méthode Champenois (Champagne Method) or Methode Traditionelle (Traditional Method).

The list below highlights traditional method wines worth seeking out. (NOTE: All are nonvintage, unless otherwise state.)

Outside of Champagne, Méthode Champenois is known as Crémant and is a fine value. Crémant De Limoux from the Languedoc region typically is distinguished with the addition of chenin blanc. The Côté Mas “M” Brut ($13) is 60% chardonnay, 20% chenin blanc, 10% pinot noir, and 10% mauzac – citrus, green apple, pear, creamy texture.

In Italy, the traditional method is known as Metodo Classico. And Franciacorta, a small region in Lombardy northeast of Milan at the foot of the Alps, sources some of the best bubbles (made mostly with chardonnay and pinot noir) outside of Champagne. Typically, these offer high energy, precise and complex moderate alcohol, silky acidity and ripe fruit. Suggestions of citrus, peach and nectarine are present, alongside, floral notes.

It also is on the forefront of sustainability practices. Corte Bianca is committed to organic growing practices, protection of biodiversity, and green building. Its 2017 Rosé Extra Brut ($48) is 80% pinot nero (noir), 20% chardonnay with a structure balanced between briskness and fullness, persistence, red berries, vanilla and mineral. sustainability principles.
The winery 1701 Franciacorta is set on a historic property but is firmly set in the present and focused on the future. Dedicated to organic practices, it also is the first certified biodynamic Franciacorta. Its 2018 “Satèn” Brut ($38) is a special type of Franciacorta produced with 100% chardonnay and softer bubbles. It is dry and fresh, with apple, orange, lemon and a salty note.

Alta Langa from southern Piedmont reportedly was Italy’s first sparkling wine, dating to the mid-1800s. Enrico Serafino, the oldest operating producer in Piedmont’s Roero region, is a leader in Alta Langa sparkling wine. In 1878, they began making Metodo Classico sparkling wines from Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. The 2018 “Oudeis” Brut ($30), made primarily from pinot noir for flavor and body, with 20% chardonnay for refined citrus and toasty complexity.

California also makes many fine sparkling wines. Most of the best use the traditional method and Champagne grapes pinot noir, chardonnay, pinot meunier.

Frank Family. A premier Napa Valley producer since its establishment in 1992, these wines are sourced from its acclaimed Lewis Vineyard in Carneros: 2016 Blanc de Blancs ($60), 100% chardonnay; lively citrus, delicate, rich; 2017 Brut Rosé ($60) 100% pinot noir; complex red berries, citrus, full, yet refined texture.

Laetitia. Another longtime favorite of mine. From the Arroyo Grande Valley in California’s Central Coast, these Estate grown bubbles are especially affordable. The Brut Cuvée RM ($29), 67% chardonnay, 33% pinot noir, offers apple, brioche, creamy lemon and toasty notes. The 2020 Brut Rosé RM ($29) 65% chardonnay, 35% pinot noir leans to strawberry, peach, and fresh bread.

Seppi. This is a new one to me and the wines are impressive. The debut project from Kelsey Phelps Finch, granddaughter of Napa Valley pioneer Joseph Phelps. The 2018 Blanc de Blancs ($48), 100% chardonnay, presents crisp green apple, grapefruit, toasted brioche and richness. The 2018 Brut Rosé ($52), 95% chardonnay, 5% pinot noir, shows raspberry with apple, pear and hints of baking spices.

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RHÔNE VALLEY’S HEARTY REDS AND EXOTIC WHITES WORTH SAMPLING

Some of my favorite wines anywhere have their origin in the south of France, especially the Rhône Valley. The valley, which runs roughly from Vienne in the north to Avignon in the south, is divided geographically and viticulturally into two regions – north and south. Most Rhône wines are red, though there are a few notable whites. 

The north is syrah country. The best wines tend toward substance and power, intensely concentrated fruit, pepper and strong tannins. The two leading appellations – Hermitage and Côte Rôtie – are among the most prestigious wines anywhere. But this makes their prices almost uniformly out of reach for most.

Not far behind in quality but more accessible in price is Cornas. A good example is the 2019 Vincent Paris “Granit 30” ($50): bright red and black fruit, concentrated but fresh, balanced with floral, mineral and savory notes, robust yet supple textured.

Other appellations vying for a place at the alternative table include St. Joseph and Crozes-Hermitage. The 2018 Tardieu-Laurent Crozes-Hermitage “Vieilles Vignes” ($35) is a particularly nice bottle of black fruits, herb, stone, white pepper, and floral notes glide along a silky palate.

The southern Rhône also has several appellations of interest, the most famous being Châteauneuf du Pape. In contrast to the northern Rhône, grenache is the most prominent grape and most of the wines are blends adding proportions of syrah mourvèdre and smaller amounts of cinsault, carignan and others. 

Arguably the best after Châteauneuf is Gigondas. Its vineyards often produce earthy wines of good structure. Like the 2017 Domaine St. Gayan “Origine” ($35): approachable, cherries, red plum, currant, cinnamon, supple tannins. 

Near Gigondas, Costières de Nîmes is a hidden treasure and a reliable source of value. Red blends dominate; syrah is the main variety, with grenache and mourvèdre, and small amounts of cinsault and carignan. My tasting revealed a fine 2019 Château Mourgues du Grès “Galets Rouges” ($18): savory and spicy notes in addition to violets, red fruit and dark berries; and organically grown 2018 Château Mourgues du Grès “Terre d’Argence” ($17): cassis, plum, stony, supple, chalky tannins. 

Costières de Nîmes white wines, also mostly blends, are as diverse and unique as its reds. The most common grapes include grenache blanc, viognier, marsanne, and roussanne. I enjoyed the 2022 Château De Valcombe “Chateau Blanc” ($13): fruity, pear, apple, anise, supple, round; and 2019 Domaine Gassier “Nostre Païs Blanc” ($17): fresh, lively, apple, orange, silky texture. 

Wines blended from different vineyards throughout the valley labeled Côtes du Rhône can be some of the best red wine values in the world. Solid, flavorful and tannic, they are great for everyday. Two good examples are the aromatic, minty, mellow 2017 Vidal-Fleury ($15); and 2019 Domaine Saint Gayan “Trescartes” ($15): juicy black cherry, earthy richness.

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CHAMPAGNE ALTERNATIVES FOR DRINKING ALL YEAR

selective focus photography of several people cheering wine glasses

While sparkling wine is the wine of choice for special occasions, bubbly can be enjoyed any time and on any occasion. But you likely will want a sparkler that doesn’t carry the price tag of Champagne. Luckily, interesting, delicious and affordable sparkling wine is made just about everywhere on the planet. Often the Champagne grape varieties of pinot noir, chardonnay and pinot meunier are used, though many experiment with other varieties. I offer several from Italy, a couple from France and several from California to give you a head start. (NOTE: All are nonvintage, unless otherwise state.)

Outside of Champagne, French Méthode Champenois (or Méthode Traditionelle) is known as Crémant and is a fine value. Crémant De Limoux from the Languedoc region typically is distinguished with the addition of chenin blanc. The Côté Mas “M” Brut ($13) is 60% chardonnay, 20% chenin blanc, 10% pinot noir, and 10% mauzac – citrus, green apple, pear, creamy texture. 

In Italy, it’s Metodo Classico. Franciacorta, from Lombardy, produces ripe, precise, complex, and silky bubbles. The 2017 Corte Bianca Rose Extra Brut ($48) is 80% pinot nero (noir), 20% chardonnay with a structure balanced between briskness and fullness, persistence, red berries, vanilla and mineral. The 1701 winery’s 2018 “Saten” Brut ($38) is 100% chardonnay, dry, fresh, with apple, orange, lemon and a salty note.

Alta Langa from southern Piedmont reportedly was Italy’s first sparkling wine, dating to the mid-1800s. The 2018 Enrico Serafino “Oudeis” Brut ($30), 80% pinot noir, 20% chardonnay, offers refined citrus, light toast, elegant palate and admirable complexity.

California also makes many fine sparkling wines. Most of the best use the traditional method and Champagne grapes pinot noir, chardonnay, pinot meunier. 

Frank Family. A premier Napa Valley producer since its establishment in 1992, these wines are sourced from its acclaimed Lewis Vineyard in Carneros: 2016 Blanc de Blancs ($60), 100% chardonnay; lively citrus, delicate, rich; 2017 Brut Rosé ($60) 100% pinot noir; complex red berries, citrus, full, yet refined texture.

Laetitia. Another longtime favorite of mine. From the Arroyo Grande Valley in California’s Central Coast, these Estate grown bubbles are especially affordable. The Brut Cuvee RM ($29), 67% chardonnay, 33% pinot noir, offers apple, brioche, creamy lemon and toasty notes. The 2020 Brut Rosé RM ($29) 65% chardonnay, 35% pinot noir leans to strawberry, peach, and fresh bread. 

Seppi. This is a new one to me and the wines are impressive. The debut project from Kelsey Phelps Finch, granddaughter of Napa Valley pioneer Joseph Phelps. The 2018 Blanc de Blancs ($48), 100% chardonnay, presents crisp green apple, grapefruit, toasted brioche and richness. The 2018 Brut Rosé ($52), 95% chardonnay, 5% pinot noir, shows raspberry with apple, pear and hints of baking spices.

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SPECIAL WINES MAKE SPECIAL HOLIDAY GIFTS 

clear wine glass

While there’s a tradition of presenting special holiday gifts, special often just means expensive. A wine gift, for instance, is even more special if it is something distinctive. I’ve tasted two such table wines that fit that description. 

2019 Donnafugata “Mille e una Notte” ($91) From a 40-year-old winery and a family with 170 years’ experience winemaking in Sicily; a blend of mostly nero d’avola, petit verdot, syrah. Loads of dark fruits (cherry, currant, plum) meld with olive, spice, cocoa and a hint of licorice in a richly concentrated wine that will surprise anyone. 

2012 Bertani Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico ($130) From a benchmark Valpolicella producer (since 1857) and creator of the first Amarone in 1958. Native corvina (80%) and rondinella are dried for 99 days to concentrate the juice which then is aged eight years. The result is juicy dark red fruits – berries, plums, currants, notes of anise, balsamic, dried herb, mineral, smoke, earth, savory spice. A wine of intensity and dramatic richness, but with fine definition and elegant tannins.

After dinner and dessert wines certainly fit the special description. 

2016 Dolce ($100, 375 ml) From a premier Napa Valley winery that focuses on (of course) on Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay, this late harvest wine (88% sémillon, 12% sauvignon blanc from winery owned vineyards solely dedicated to this wine) is modeled after France’s Sauternes. Aging 28 months in 100% new oak imparts luxurious notes of crème brûlée, vanilla and light cinnamon to balance unctuous, lively apricot, pear, and honeysuckle.

2016 Domaine Sigalas Vinsanto ($100) From one of Greece’s finest producers and the flagship grape variety of the Greek island of Santorini, assyrtiko, along with 25% aidini. While assyrtiko is mostly made into a diverse range of refreshing white wines, its typical texture, acidity, and minerality, make it ideal for Vinsanto, a naturally sweet wine from sun dried grapes. After long fermentation and aging in oak barrels seven years, a succulent mix of fig, raisin, spice, molasses, hazelnut, butterscotch, maple, and honey, emerge with luscious elegance.

Pio Cesare Barolo Chinato ($110) From one of Piedmont’s most highly regarded producers, this is a “digestif”, traditionally drunk after a meal to aid digestion. Though there is little scientific evidence of medicinal properties, digestifs still are widely popular. This one uses an ancient family recipe: an infusion of chinchona (China Calissaja and Succirubra barks that contains quinine), macerated for 21 days in a small amount of Barolo, plus a mixture of aromatic herbs, including gentian roots, rhubarb, cardamom seeds, sweet and bitter orange, cinnamon. The result drinks with impressive purity and definition, at times displaying each of those ingredients. At just 16% ABV, it is sweet, fresh, and rich, it’s delightful neat and served with dark chocolate dessert or ice cream.

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COLORADO’S WINERIES CONTINUE TO SHOW IMPROVEMENT IN QUALITY

Colorado Wine has been growing and improving by large leaps over the last thirty years. Which is especially welcome this time of year as wine from Colorado makes a fine holiday gift. 

A good place to start is with the 2023 Governor’s Cup Wine Collection winners (https://coloradowine.com/governors-cup/) (all made from Colorado grapes, honey, or other fruit). The winning wineries include Alfred Eames, Balistreri, BookCliff, Dragon Meadery, Restoration, Sauvage Spectrum, Snowy Peaks, Peachfork and Storm Cellar. 

Look for these and other Colorado wines at local shops or online. And of course, the Winery at Holy Cross Abbey is just down the road. You could travel to the Western Slope. 

You also can go to Denver to pick up Balistreri’s award-winning Syrah-CSU Vineyard. At their north Denver winery, winemaker John, his wife Birdie and daughter Julie offer tastings, tours, a fine lunch seven days a week, and space for special events. 

I also recommend a visit to nearby Spero Winery. Spero is open for free tasting on Saturdays 1-5 p.m. or by appointment. And expect complimentary cheese and deli meats available to accompany your tastes. They also can accommodate private tastings, group visits, and special events. 

Another family endeavor, Clyde is the winemaker and his wife June (who is John Balistreri’s sister) manages the business (and just about everything else). The wines I tasted during my visit – Gewurztraminer, Zinfandel, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Cabernet Franc – fit the style Clyde said he seeks, robust and fruit forward. 

One thing I found fascinating during my conversations with both families is that both John (since 1998) and Clyde (since 1999) have always made their wines using more “traditional” approaches. Clyde uses sulfites sparingly, doesn’t rack or fine his wines, and ages the reds at least two years in barrel.

John goes even further fermenting the grapes with their own yeast and eschewing sulfites, additives, filtering and fining, Basically what these days is called “natural winemaking”. 

Both make their white wines fermenting the juice on their skins, an ancient way of making wine. Skin contact wines (recently dubbed “orange wine”) typically have a golden tint, tart and nutty flavors, and more body than the typical white wine. 

Many in the wine industry praise “maverick” winemakers producing “natural wine” and “orange wine” like they are something new. Clyde and John were making such low intervention wines long before they became fashionable.

One thing for sure, these are not bland, homogenous wines. They are bold, fruity and (to me pleasantly) spicy. And one thing for sure these families know hospitality. Taking care of their customers seems to just be in their blood. And maybe most impressive is that Clyde is 85 and John is 81. Thankfully, they get up every day to make fine wine for us.

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SPECIAL WINES MAKE SPECIAL HOLIDAY – CALIFORNIA CABERNET SAUVIGNON

As there’s a tradition of people seeking special gifts for the holidays, if you are looking for a wine splurge, California Cabernet Sauvignon is a great place to start. The following recommendations are the best California Cabs I tasted this year. As a bonus, each of these wines has the capacity to age well and improve with time. 

2020 Daou “Soul of a Lion” Paso Robles ($150) named after the founders’ father, this powerful, complex wine naturally is the crown jewel of the winery’s production; 81% cabernet sauvignon, 13% cabernet franc, 6% petit verdot from estate vineyards in the Adelaida District of Paso Robles; intense, blackberry, blackcurrants fruit, savory notes of tobacco, leather, graphite, truffle, cocoa, full-bodied, with a firm structure, yet soft mouthfeel  

2018 Ladera “Reserve” Napa Valley ($179) this 100% cab is sourced from Ladera’s high elevation estate vineyard (Ladera means “hillside” in Spanish) on Howell Mountain, directly opposite the winery along the Silverado Trail, just east of Calistoga; concentrated, flawlessly ripe blueberry, cassis, with mocha, cedar, rocky loam, and a hint of mint, it’s full-bodied, rich and velvety, intense, with amazing energy  

2020 Paul Hobbs “Coombsville” ($120) Paul Hobbs is one of the most highly respected winemakers and consultants on the planet; based in Sonoma, his eponymous winery consistently produces top quality wines from Sonoma and Napa vineyards; this one’s 100% cab from vineyards located at the southeastern edge of the Napa Valley at the foot of the Vaca Mountains; concentrated black cherries, cassis, and blackberries, with notes of tobacco, cinnamon, earth and toast; it’s full-bodied, wrapped in velvety texture 

2017 Mount Veeder “Reserve” ($125) producing wine from high elevation vineyards on Mayacamas Mountains hillsides in the Mt. Veeder AVA on the westside of Napa Valley; 88% cabernet sauvignon, 6% malbec, 6% merlot; intense, succulent black and blue fruits, enticing touches of warm spices, light char, earthy, herbaceous, mineral notes, all held together with fresh, powerful tannins

2018 Gundlach-Bundschu “Vintage Reserve” 160th Anniversary ($140) these families have farmed the (now regenerative organic) Rhinefarm estate vineyard since 1858; this limited bottling is from the west slopes of the Mayacamas Mountains in the Sonoma Valley AVA; 82% cabernet sauvignon, with cabernet franc, malbec, merlot and petit verdot; its bright cassis, blackberry fruit opens to fresh earth, herbs, and complimentary oak, finishing with elegant tannins

2019 Kendall-Jackson “Estates Collection” Hawkeye Mountain ($70) the Estates Collection showcases many of the best Jackson family-owned vineyards; the high-elevation Hawkeye Mountain estate rises to 2,400 feet in Sonoma’s Alexander Valley; it boasts deep red berries with fluid mineral, tobacco, and cedar notes, and glides elegantly along the polished palate muscular, yet soft tannins

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TUSCAN WINES CONTINUE TO IMPRESS 

I think it is fair to say that Chianti traditionally has been the best known Tuscan wine in the U.S. Speaking of tradition, though, stubborn insistence on adhering to outdated rules led to a decline in quality in the 1960s and 70s. With the introduction of the so-called Super Tuscans in the 1970s and stricter production rules for Chianti beginning in the 1980s, we have tasted steady increases in quality since. 

The primary grape in Chianti, and most Tuscan wines, is sangiovese. Typically, it yields medium bodied wines with lively red fruits, firm, dry structure, and silky tannins. Complexity is revealed in spice, earth, forest, and mineral notes. It often is blended with other native varieties, and increasingly Bordeaux grapes. 

My recent tasting highlighted the amazing quality for the price of a relatively new top quality level of Chianti Classico designated “Gran Selezione”, indicating a selection of the best grapes, requiring 80% sangiovese, estate fruit, and longer aging. 

Two outstanding wines from San Felice are exemplary:

  • 2018 “Poggio Rosso” ($58) concentrated, toasty spice, mineral notes 
  • 2019 “Il Grigio” ($50) lush, intense, vibrant, savory 

The 2019 Rialzi ($50) from Tenuta Perano was nearly as impressive with its vibrant, toasty, spicy herb character. 

Chianti Rufina generally is considered the next best production zone. And Nipozzano is one of its premier producers. Its 2019 “Vecchie Viti” ($30) from old vines, is elegant, juicy, earthy, stony with nice volume. 

Brunello di Montalcino (100% local sangiovese clone grown around Montalcino in southern Tuscany) is even more prized than Chianti, though usually more expensive. These are some of the most concentrated, muscular, long-lived expressions of sangiovese, as seen in the wines below. 

  • 2018 Campogiovanni ($80) owned by San Felice; rich red fruits, dense, full but accessible, herbal, tannic 
  • 2018 Castiglion del Bosco ($60) powerful, rich, broad, brawny, darker, savory iron, friendly tannins 

Super Tuscans usually still feature sangiovese but with nonindigenous grapes, particularly cabernet sauvignon, merlot and syrah. The 2020 Tenute Luce “Lucente” ($40) is an example of a fine moderately priced one. It’s 75% merlot/25% sangiovese, lively, toasty, soft textured with spicy oak and tobacco. 

The 2019 San Felice “Vigorello” ($58) is a blend of 35% pugnitello (a native vine rediscovered by San Felice), 30% merlot, 30% cabernet sauvignon and 5% petit verdot. It presents an enticing bouquet and full figure with spice, mineral, herbs, brightness, and tight tannins. 

Many of the most famous Super Tuscans come from the Bolgheri area along the western Tuscan coast. Typically, the wines exhibit bright cherry fruit, firm, dry structure, and earthy qualities. Another amazing value is the 2021 Podere Sapaio “Volpolo” ($36) 70% cabernet sauvignon, 15% merlot and 15% petit verdot with firm but elegant texture, pure fruit, floral and earthy notes.