I first became interested in wine while I worked in numerous liquor stores during college in the late 1970’s and early 1980’s. In the years following college, I researched, tasted, traveled to vineyards in California and Europe, participated in countless tastings. I began writing about wine in 1995 with a column in Out Front Colorado. For me, wine is more than a drink. It is food. It is a connection to the earth. It is culture. There is just something amazing, even magical, about the transformation of grapes into wine. It is also remarkable how drinking wine with food enhances the taste and enjoyment of both. Appreciation of wine has become an integral part of my approach to life, which emphasizes balance, respect for nature, physical and emotional health, and an appreciation of our nature as social beings. In 2006, I was awarded a fellowship to the Symposium for Professional Wine Writers.
Every year as summer draws near, America’s craft brewers roll out their summer seasonals. The modus operandi generally is to produce beers with light body, low alcohol and refreshing flavors. Often such beers emphasize lightness too much for my taste – too often they are also light on flavor. Usually, when I’m looking for something more delicate, I’ll pass on the “summer beer” and go for maybe a Pale Ale or an IPA. This is where a beer like the Breckenridge Brewery Breck IPA comes in handy.
The brewery has dubbed this their new mainline IPA. The strong hoppy bitterness (66 IBUs), which comes from Mosaic and Cascade hops, is nicely complimented by the added roundness of Full-Pint malt (a new two-row variety), softening the hoppy edges. Floral and fruit aromas offer refreshing citrus and slightly spicy notes. There also are malty notes, which show up in the firm palate and crisp, slightly bitter finish. Overall, it drinks nicely balanced even at 6.3% ABV. Not too heavy, not too light, it is just right for warm weather (and any other time of year!) sipping.
Dry pink wines, while appreciated in Europe for centuries, faced a schizophrenic reaction from Americans toward the end of the last century. As sweet “blush” wines like White Zinfandel became wildly popular, most dry wine drinkers decided all rosés were sweet and not worth their time.
Europeans have known for a long time the joy of drinking pale red wine. Whether Rosé (French), Rosato (Italian) or Rosado (Spanish), they are mostly dry. They show bright, fresh fruit aromas and flavors of strawberry, cherry, raspberry, cranberry or rhubarb. The best approximate the profile of their red siblings but drink more like white wines. Because of their freshness, pink drinks are always best enjoyed young; so look for the most recent vintages available.
Most wine producing countries now have gotten into the act with a wide variety of grapes and finally these wines seem to be gaining appreciation in this country. I my opinion, rosé should be inexpensive, no matter how good it is. With the exception of sparkling wine, it is less expensive to make and is made for early consumption. So, here I have focused on wines priced $20 or less.
From France, the 2014 M. Chapoutier “Belleruche” Cotes-du-Rhone ($16) fashions grenache, syrah and cinsault into a brisk wine with strawberry and cherry notes. The nonvintage Lucien Albrecht Brut Rose Cremant d’Alsace ($22) adds bubbles to pinot noir for a crisp taste of strawberry; an affordable alternative to Champagne.
And France’s neighbors also are reliable sources. I have Italian recommendations that span the length of the boot. The 2014 Mezzacorona ($10) delivers creamy cherry from local lagrein grapes sustainably farmed at the foot of the Dolomiti (Italian Alps). One of Brunello di Montalcino’s best producers uses estate grown sangiovese to produce the brisk red berries of the 2014 Il Poggione “Brancato” ($18).
The 2013 Villa Gemma Cerasuolo D’Abruzzo ($20), made from the indigenous montepulciano grapes in the Abruzzo region south of Rome is bright and full of tangy strawberry and cherry. Sicily sources the 2014 Stemmari ($10) whose tart red fruit features sustainably farmed native nero d’Avola grapes.
The Iberian Peninsula also appreciates these wines. The light, tart cherry of the 2014 Vina Real ($14) from Rioja comes from 85% viura (white grape) and 15% tempranillo. Spain’s neighbor Portugal was well represented with the sharp raspberry of the 2014 Esporao “Defesa” ($15), a blend of aragonês and syrah.
Even South Africa is worth a look. The 2014 Goats do Roam “Fair Trade Goats Rose” ($10) as the bottle notes uses mostly shiraz grenache, gamay noir, and mourvedre grapes that are “fair trade certified sourced from fair trade producers” for a slightly sweet impression. The strawberry and cranberry fruit of the 2014 Mulderbosch Cabernet Sauvignon Rosé ($14) is full bodied for a rose.
American producers increasingly are making nice rosés, too. I have been a fan of the Pedroncelli Dry Rose of Zinfandel as long as I can remember. Actually, Pedroncelli has been making this wine since 1958. A blend of free run and saignee juice, the 2014 “Signature Collection” Dry Creek Valley ($12) is easygoing with raspberry and spice.
From Washington, the 2014 Charles & Charles Rosé Columbia Valley ($14) is lively and flavorful, with pretty watermelon and creamy spice aromas and flavors, finishing off-dry. This collaboration between wine entrepreneur Charles Bieler and winekmaker Charles Smith (K Vintners) is a fanciful blend of mostly syrah, mourvedre, cabernet sauvignon, grenache, cinsault, and counoise.
And finally an unconventional recommendation. I typically crave a glass of Port in the cold of winter but I also have found an elegant, pure Tawny Port (they are best served slightly chilled anyway) can be quite enjoyable during warmer weather, too. The Warre’s 10 Year Old “Otima” ($30/500ml) offers an intriguing mix of fresh and dried cherry and orange, with hints of toffee, almonds and caramel. Balanced, intense and refined, it is an ideal cocktail.
Estival is part of Ska’s Seasonal Stout Series, fitting for a summer release with its modest alcohol and medium body. Brewed with orange blossom honey, milk sugar, and aged on orange peels, it opens with notes of cream and coffee as a bit of that orange pokes through. On the palate, the orange flavor is more pronounced, while the creaminess persists. Full-flavored, yet lighter in body, it will make a great alternative when you feel like something more substantial than a lager or pale ale but still not too heavy.
As with all four of the stouts in the Seasonal Stout Series, Estival is released in cans. Based in Durango, Colorado, Ska Brewing was founded in 1995 and produces over a dozen beers, many of which are available in cans. Can or bottle or tap, make a point of checking out this one.
Wine travel isn’t just about visiting wineries and tasting their wine. For me, drinking wine isn’t only about how a wine tastes or even about how the grapes were grown and the wine was made but also about the history of the vineyard and the winery, the winemaker’s story, and so on. Similarly, when visiting a winery it means a lot to me to learn about the history and culture of the surrounding area.
Such it was with a recent visit toTaos, New Mexico. At this point I can hear you saying, “Wine? In New Mexico? Ok, so the New Mexico wine industry is not California; it isn’t even Colorado. But there is interesting wine being made there and plenty of fun to be had in the tasting rooms. And you can’t beat Northern New Mexico for cultural, culinary and historical interest. As much as the area is renowned for its food and art, it turns out wine is also part of its history and culture.
I was surprised to learn that the first wine grapes were planted in southern New Mexico around 1629 by Franciscan monks who had accompanied Spanish colonists to use for sacramental wine, roughly 150 years before vines were planted in California.
Over the subsequent years, wine grape growing had several ups and downs. As in many states, what I’ll call the modern New Mexico wine industry got its start in the late 1970s. Today, there are over 40 wineries, with most clustered around Albuquerque but several near Las Cruces in the south and several more in the north scattered between Santa Fe and Taos. And much like Colorado – where wineries are located all over the state but most of the grapes are grown in on one area (the Grand Valley) – most of New Mexico’s grapes are grown near Las Cruces.
In the meantime, New Mexico has become much better known for its Spanish and Native American culture, its art and its food. I had a chance to experience all of this on a recent visit to Taos with a group of writers.
Sagebrush Inn Courtyard
Although Taos is home to many welcoming B&B’s, we enjoyed a stay at the historic Sagebrush Inn & Suites. The property opened in 1929 as a 17-room hotel. Since then, it has hosted many artists and celebrities, including Georgia O’Keefe and Dennis Hopper for example. Recently refurbished, today it features 156 rooms mostly surrounding a peaceful courtyard and a popular conference center. I enjoyed staying in one of the many rooms with a Kiva fireplace and an appealing Southwestern atmosphere. The complimentary wi-fi was particularly appreciated. We didn’t have a chance to eat at the attractive restaurant but I did enjoy a local Black Mesa Chardonnay at the Cantina surrounded by impressive works of art.
Taos Pueblo with Sacred Taos Mountain in Background
But we were there to explore this magical place that is brimming with a mother lode of history. The first place we stopped was theTaos Pueblo, the only living Native American community designated both a World Heritage Site by UNESCO and a National Historic Landmark. Indigenous people established the Taos Pueblo complex roughly 1,000 years ago. Experience a bit of that history with a guided tour by a Pueblo native. Help preserve ancient traditions by purchasing authentic, traditional arts, crafts and food – like Mica-flecked pottery, silver jewelry and a loaf of homemade bread.
Spanish colonialists came to the area about 600 years later, apparently looking for the famed Cities of Gold. The Conquistadors didn’t find much gold but still decided to stay. Visitors can get a sense of what life was like, at least by the early 1800’s (the late Spanish Colonial period) at theHacienda-de-los-Martinez.
Built in 1804, the fortress-like, adobe walled complex became an important trade center for the northern boundary of the Spanish Empire and the terminus for the Camino Real, which connected northern New Mexico to Mexico City.
Another of the vestiges of the Spanish colonial period in New Mexico is the many historic churches.One of, if not the, most famous isthe San Francisco de Asis Mission Churchsouth of Taos on the Ranchos de Taos Plaza. Dating to 1815, its traditional adobe mission-style built in the shape of a cross, is enshrined in a classic painting by Georgia O’Keefe, though it is said to be the most painted and photographed church in the United States.
Taos also has been a favorite of artists and their benefactors – drawn to the area’s natural beauty and its varied history and culture – for over 100 years. Visitors interested in this can tour numerous art museums and historic homes that illustrate how Taos became a magnet for creative people.
I heard a lot on this trip about the Taos Society of Artists and the role of this visionary group in establishing Taos – and northern New Mexico – as a destination for artists. You can immerse yourself in this period with visits to the Taos Art Museum-Fechin House, which is dedicated to the art of early twentieth century Taos, including a collection of paintings by the masters of the Taos Society of Artists; the residences of three of the six founders of the society: the Ernest Blumenschein Home and the Couse-Sharp Historic Site, including the homes and studios of E.I. Couse and Henry Sharp; and the Mabel Dodge Luhan House – Luhan, a wealthy New York socialite, was responsible for bringing many elite artists and other creative and political luminaries of the day to Taos in the 1920s.
I particularly enjoyed our time at the Millicent Rogers Museum. Rogers was the daughter of the co-founder of Standard Oil and the museum is dedicated to the history and culture of the southwest, specializing in Native American and Spanish colonial art. She moved to Taos in 1947 (only six years before she died at age 51) and became a patron of Native American artists and others of the Taos art community. Her expansive collection of self-designed Indian-made pieces is housed at the Museum. Particularly impressive was the pottery of Maria Martinez, the famed potter of the nearby San Ildefonso Pueblo. It’s a few miles north of town but well worth the trip.
Gustavo Victor Golez at Harwood MuseumAgnes Martin Gallery at Harwood Museum
In the heart of Taos, the Harwood Museum is easily accessible just a few blocks from the Plaza. The museumwas especially impressive for its amazing collection of New Mexican art, including more from the Taos Society of Artists, Hispanic art, (some more than 100 years old), Modernist art of the 1940s, a contemporary collection from the 1970s, and the abstract art of Agnes Martin.
But I have toconfess; I was mostly anticipating the food. And I wasn’t disappointed. We enjoyed lunch at Doc Martin’s Restaurant, located in The Historic Taos Inn, a registered historic landmark. The restaurant has earned multiple awards for its “Regional New American” fare and its extensive wine list. I couldn’t pass up the chance to have a great New Mexico chile pepper and their relleno was most satisfying, especially with an Elevated IPA from La Cumbre Brewing of Albuquerque.
Speaking of beer, don’t miss Taos Mesa Brewing. Located a few miles outside of town, it is worth the trip for some really good craft beer, casual food, and entertainment. It has become a popular spot for music and events.
Dinner one night was at El Meze Restaurant, widely considered one of the best in the area. It is located in a historic building and Chef Frederick Muller’s food is rooted in the region. It combines local ingredients like mountain trout, chiles, and wild mushrooms with preparations, as Chef describes it, influenced by Moorish Spain, Native American and American traditions.
Our other dinner was a real treat, as we cooked it ourselves at the Cooking Studio Taos. We were guided by Chef Chris Maher, an extensively awarded chef, including an appearance at the James Beard House and time working at New York’s Tavern on the Green under Drew Nieporent, who has since become on of the nation’s most highly regarded restaurant owners. The evening gained additional interest as Chef Maher revealed he was first a professional actor and continues to act to this day. He told us some fun stories about his Hollywood years but my main take away from the evening is the seafood in red chile sauce and rice with noodles. I can still tasty that dish. The green chile stew was really good, too.
With all these activities I was still intent on making time to visit some wineries and you should, too. I intentionally asked our hosts to carve out some time in the schedule for me to do just that.
On one morning, I drove 25 miles south of Taos to the tasting room of Vivác Winery, conveniently located at the corner of Hwy 68 & Hwy 75. Apart from the wines, it is notable for its pleasant courtyard, scenery, availability of local arts and crafts and (especially) fresh, gourmet chocolates.
This is a small, family operation (as so many of them are in New Mexico) founded in 1998 by brothers Jesse and Chris Padberg and their wives Michelle and Liliana. In fact, Michelle had to miss my appointment because her son stayed home sick from school. But she arranged for me to meet with Sage who was operating the tasting room that day.
Just three miles up Highway 75 is La Chiripada Winery, another small, family-run operation. I was intrigued when I learned its home vineyards are at an elevation of 6100 ft., making it one of the highest commercial grape growing ventures in the world. Unfortunately the winery was closed when I was there and I ran out of time to visit their tasting room near the Taos Plaza. But the winery’s long history in the area (since 1977) and reputation for quality merit a visit the next time.
I did get a chance, though, to visit the tasting room of Black Mesa Winery also just off the plaza. (The winery is 30 miles south of Taos.) Yet another family owned operation (by Jerry and Linda Burd since 2000), our group found it a fine respite from a day of museum and gallery visits. We happily tasted through a variety of wines knowledgeably poured by Laura Dunn, Assistant winemaker Craig Dunn’s wife.
Most of the wines I tasted at Vivác and Black Mesa were well made an enjoyable. I was particularly surprised and impressed with the Italian varietals, especially the Refosco at Vivác and the Montepulciano at Black Mesa. I also liked the Black Mesa’s aromatic, floral and spicy Malvasia Bianca (under their second label Alta Canyon Cellars). And I was surprised the Black Beauty, a chocolate Port-style wine was not cloying or overbearing like many such wines and delivered just the right touch of chocolate flavor. At Vivác, the Sangiovese, and Amante, their Port-style wine, also showed well. These wines and the wineries were a nice change of pace and are well worth a visit next time you go to Taos.
This visit gave me encouragement about the future of New Mexico’s wine industry. Both Laura and Michelle told me their wineries research and experiment to find varietals that will be successful in their micro climate. And Michelle said in an email response to my question about a signature variety that “New Mexico State University has a viticulturist working with the industry to do just that, find a ‘New Mexico variety’ but have not identified that golden goose as of yet.” She added that as of now Vivác is excited about the Riesling, Gruner Veltliner, Petit Verdot, and Pinot Noir form their experimental plots. I would contend Gruet Winery near Albuquerque has had so much success with its sparkling wines, for now at least, that has become the state’s signature wine. Still, I will be interested to follow the development of New Mexico wine and enjoy tasting the results.
As I mentioned in my previous post, America’s craft brewers are busy rolling out their summer seasonals. I’m more of a full-flavored, intense beer person myself – all year – but I get the popularity of beers with light body, low alcohol and refreshing flavors for warm weather drinking.
Frankly, I’m content with The Boston Beer Company’s flagship beer – Samuel Adams Boston Lager – or their Rebel IPA. But I’m sure the vast majority of their market will anxiously snap up the following brews.
Samuel Adams Porch Rocker. This is a good example of a summer seasonal concocted specifically for the summer heat and outdoor activities. As the company notes, it is a take on a Bavarian Radler, which typically combines lager and lemonade. Samuel Adams used their two-row pale malt blend and Hallertau Mittelfrueh Noble hops to brew a German Helles-style lager and added lemon. It’s lightness is emphasized by its low 4.4% ABV and 8 IBUs. Those who like fruity beers will find this satisfying.
Samuel Adams Downtime Pilsner. A limited release summer seasonal, this one is Samuel Adams’ take on a classic German Pilsner. They, of course, started with traditional Bavarian Noble hops (in this case, Hallertau Mittelfrueh and Hersbrucker) but added new hop varieties, Herkules and Mandarina. The combination yields delicate floral and spice notes along with citrus and black pepper. At 5.0% alcohol and 30 IBUs, it’s not too strong and not too bitter.
Samuel Adams Summer Ale. a different take on the summer seasonal, this is an American wheat ale refreshed with Hallertau Mittelfrueh and Saaz Noble hops that, along with the addition of lemon peel, presents a bright citrus note. But this time the citrus is balanced with malty notes from Samuel Adams two-row pale malt blend and malted wheat and a suggestion of cardamom-like pepper from the addition of Grains of Paradise. At 5.3% ABV and 7IBUs, it all makes for a pleasant sipper for a pleasant summer day.
Every year as summer draws near, America’s craft brewers roll out their summer seasonals. The modus operandi generally is to produce beers with light body, low alcohol and refreshing flavors. Often such beers emphasize lightness too much for my taste – too often they are also light on flavor. Usually, when I’m looking for something more delicate, I’ll pass on the “summer beer” and go for maybe a Pale Ale or an IPA. This is where a beer like the Breckenridge Brewery Breck IPA comes in handy.
The brewery has dubbed this their new mainline IPA. The strong hoppy bitterness (66 IBUs), which comes from Mosaic and Cascade hops, is nicely complimented by the added roundness of Full-Pint malt (a new two-row variety), softening the hoppy edges. Floral and fruit aromas offer refreshing citrus and slightly spicy notes. There also are malty notes, which show up in the firm palate and crisp, spicy and slightly bitter finish. Overall, it drinks nicely balanced even at 6.3% ABV. Not too heavy, not too light, it is just right for warm weather sipping.
[Note: All Photos are courtesy of Breckenridge Brewery.]
Chardonnay has something like a 30-year record as America’s favorite white wine. Its deserved reputation for greatness (particularly the white wines of Burgundy) undoubtedly is at least partly responsible for that popularity. Another likely reason consumers have been so drawn to the wine is it can be made in different styles to appeal to different tastes and occasions. Regardless of style, Chardonnays typically offer ripe fruit flavors of citrus, apple, pear, or tropical, and sometimes melon or fig.
Many wineries attempt to emulate the richness and depth associated with Burgundy, the benchmark for the grape. It used to be common in California for such wineries to go to extremes employing full malolactic fermentation (converts sharper malic acid to richer lactic acid) and 100% fermentation and aging in new oak barrels. Such wines are rare today. But the wines below still use significant amounts of these to great effect, deftly walking the line between richness and freshness.
Two single vineyard wines from MacRostie the 2012 “Wildcat” ($38), from an intemperate location in the Sonoma Coast and 2012 “Sangiacomo” ($44), from a historic and prized vineyard in Carneros are rich and full-bodied wines with oak influences but still loads of pure fruit.
Talbott Vineyards has pioneered modern viticulture and winemaking in Monterey since 1982. First with the extreme mountaintop Diamond T Vineyard and then the flagship Sleepy Hollow Vineyard, its wines have built a reputation for power and intensity. These 2012 wines also display impressive balance. The 2012 “Sarah Case” ($52) is an elegant special selection of the best lots from the Sleepy Hollow Vineyard. “Diamond T” ($52) shows the vineyard’s signature minerality and bracing acidity. The “Audrey” ($75) is a complex special selection of the best lots from Diamond T. Impressively, all are bottled in screw caps!
Migration is a winery in the Duckhorn family dedicated to exploring the Burgundian varietals chardonnay and pinot noir as they are expressed in top California growing regions. From 2012 there is a lush Russian River Valley ($32) and rich, intense single vineyard wines from the Charles Heintz Vineyard Sonoma Coast ($55), the Searby Vineyard in Russian River Valley ($55), and Dierberg Vineyard in Santa Maria Valley ($55).
I also found the purity of the 2012 Sea Smoke “Streamside” Santa Rita Hills ($60) from estate grown fruit and the concentration of the 2012 Sonoma-Loeb “Envoy” ($38), which benefits from Sangiacomo fruit, to be excellent.
Even less expensive wines can do oak and malolactic right as with the impressive 2013 Rodney Strong Sonoma Coast ($25) and the 2012 Landmark “Overlook” ($23), a great value blend of fruit from Sonoma, Monterey and Santa Barbara.
Some actually eschew oak altogether fermenting the juice in stainless steel tanks and aging the wine in bottle. These wines can be fresh, lively and vigorous. I was disappointed there were no such wines submitted for my tasting, though the excellent 2013 Alta Maria Alta Maria Valley ($28) had only ten percent see oak and “neutral” oak at that.
More wineries are getting better at balancing the use of oak barrels and malolactic fermentation to compliment quality fruit with the sweet, spicy or toasty elements from oak more as seasoning than as dominant characteristics. Generally, this means less oak, less new oak and less time overall in barrel. Many only undergo partial malolactic fermentation. These are listed in my order of preference but all are recommended.
2013 Freemark Abbey Napa Valley ($30)
2012 Matanzas Creek Sonoma County ($26)
2012 MacRostie Sonoma Coast ($25)
2012 Grgich Hills Napa Valley ($42)
2013 Ron Rubin Russian River Valley ($20)
2012 MacRostie Russian River Valley ($32)
2012 Duckhorn Napa Valley ($35)
2013 Patz & Hall Sonoma Coast ($38)
2013 Frei Brothers Reserve Russian River Valley ($20)
2013 Arrowood Sonoma County ($25)
2013 Cherry Pie “Cherry Tart” Monterey, Sonoma, Napa ($25)
I often get comments from readers that I don’t write enough about affordable, everyday wines. Usually described in the wine magazines as “good values,” these days that generally refers to wines that deliver good quality for $20 or less. But I know many readers wish that meant $10 or less. Well, inflation is a reality and while there are countless wines that provide correct varietal character, clean fruit and a sense of character for a reasonable price – my definition of “good value” – in my opinion it is extremely difficult find them at $10 or less.
Still, I kick off this column with a collection of just such wines. As with many value wines they carry a “California” appellation since they contain fruit from many areas of the state. Many other value wines will list a county appellation like Sonoma or Santa Barbara. Don’t expect fancy single vineyard expressions. Do expect tasty, inviting wines that you’ll swear are worth more than you paid for them.
Oak Grove. Founded in 1999, Oak Grove is sort of like a European négociant in this case searching all over California to source their fruit. The white wines are typically light and refreshing. On the other hand, the red wines in my tasting – Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Zinfandel, Shiraz, and Petite Sirah – are full flavored and easy drinking. All are 2013 “Family Reserve” wines and priced at $8. What Oak Grove has achieved here is remarkable at this price.
Wente Vineyards. Family owned since 1883 in the Livermore Valley, the fifth generation is continuing the tradition of good value everyday wines. Wente was a pioneer of Chardonnay in California and released the first varietally labeled Chardonnay in 1936. They apply that expertise to many other varietals, including these fine values.
2013 Morning Fog Chardonnay ($15)
2012 Southern Hills Cabernet Sauvignon ($18)
2013 Louis Mel Sauvignon Blanc ($15)
2011 Sandstone Merlot ($18)
2012 Riverbank Riesling ($15)
Murphy-Goode. Located in the Alexander Valley region, Murphy-Goode is a family-owned winery – twice. Founded 30 years ago by three friends, the winery now is part of Jackson Family Wines, while the original families are still involved. Another producer of a wide range of wines, for the purposes of this column the value wines carry a California appellation. These include a solid 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon ($15), an inviting 2012 Merlot ($15), a silky 2013 Pinot Noir ($15), a fresh 2013 Pinot Grigio ($13), and a fruitful 2013 Chardonnay ($14).
Also look for the 2012 Homefront Red ($15), a nice six varietal blend whose sales benefit Operation Homefront, providing emergency and other financial assistance to the families of service members and wounded warriors.
Rodney Strong Vineyards. Founded in 1959 by Broadway dancer Rodney Strong and owned by Tom Klein since 1989, the winery has had the same winemaker in Rick Sayre since 1979. Throughout all this time, the winery has built its reputation on delivering quality and value at all price levels. This includes its Sonoma County designated wines – a characterful 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon ($20), a lush 2012 Merlot ($20), and a surprisingly complex 2013 Chardonnay ($17).
Renwood. This longtime Amador County winery has built a well-deserved reputation for Zinfandel but also can be a good source of affordable wines made from Rhone and Italian varieties. The value Zinfandels include the jammy, spicy 2012 “Premier Old Vine” Amador County ($20) and the briary, red fruited 2012 California ($15). The 2012 Clarion Red Blend ($20) combines equal parts zinfandel, petite syiah, syrah and marsanne into a seductive whole.
Byron. One of the viticultural pioneers of Santa Barbara County having planted the first vineyard to vinifera grapes in 1964, Byron has been in the forefront of winemaking achievement in the area ever since. The 2012 Pinot Noir Santa Barbara County ($19) and 2013 Chardonnay Santa Barbara County ($16) are fine introductions to the region.
Every winemaker says they believe “wine is made in the vineyard.” They talk about terroir and vineyard expression but that depends on decisions made by the winemaker in the cellar. Winemakers, whether they admit it or not, generally try to achieve a certain style.
California Cabernet Sauvignon is a good example of this. California Cabernet – especially from the Napa Valley – has become something of a phenomenon in recent decades with a general style of wine that emphasizes richness and concentration. Of course there are variations on the theme. Though, whether the wine is blended from multiple sources or a single vineyard, this style is recognizable in pronounced fruit, lavish oak (much of it new); a full body, supple texture, and refined tannins. Ideally, all this results in a wine that is enticing to drink now but can be aged and enjoyed for many years.
Duckhorn Vineyards has a 35-year history of producing what could be described as “quintessentially Napa Valley Cabernet.” Over the years, their portfolio has grown to include regional, appellation and single vineyard bottlings and has acquired a dedicated following. In 2011, Duckhorn successfully pulls off this style at all levels. The 2011 Napa Valley – the lowest priced offering at $60 – wraps sweet oak around juicy red fruit finishing with moderate but ample tannins.
The 2011 Rutherford Appellation ($95) displays more up front berry and currant fruit while the appellation’s signature dusty earth sensation melds well with strong tannins structured to evolve over time. The 2011 Monitor Ledge ($95) ups the ante with more intense fruit including a good 25% dose of merlot) balanced with 85% new oak and tough but manageable tannins. An intense drink now, it should develop some elegance and complexity over time.
But not everyone in Napa has jumped on the bandwagon. For a good style contrast look to the 2011 Grgich Hills Napa Valley Estate Grown ($60). Grgich Hills is known for producing wines in what generally is described as an “Old World” style. More like traditional Bordeaux, there is less of an emphasis on assertive fruit and more on lively acidity and firm structure. This is still Napa, so there is a sense of concentrated red fruits, but the Old World style asserts itself with stronger hints of earth and dried herbs. This certified organic and biodynamic wine is quite dry and should reward patience, as these wines typically evolve intriguing savory qualities.
Many wineries try to strike a balance between the two styles. The three below do a good job of combining the ripeness of California fruit with the nuances of Bordeaux. Basically, that means neither the fruit nor the oak hit you over the head. Instead, they join together to caress your palate. A good example is the 2012 Atalon Napa Valley ($35). There is plenty of red and black fruitbut also noticeable earth and herbal notes. The tannins are fairly soft, inviting early consumption. It finishes on a slightly (pleasantly) bitter note that should help it pair well with a variety of foods.
With the 2012 Sequoia Grove Napa Valley ($38) 11% cabernet franc and 10% merlot soften and round out the wine. Combined with firm acidity and intense fruit, we have what could be called a California expression of the Bordeaux style.
The 2011 Freemark Abbey Napa Valley ($44) – from one of Napa Valley’s oldest wine properties, having been established in 1886 – finds this new/old balance more through blending. It’s only 76 percent cabernet sauvignon with 18 percent merlot and dollops of cabernet franc, petite verdot and malbec. There is still plenty of lively Napa fruit, touches of creamy oak and fairly firm tannins. But none of these overwhelm. Instead, they compliment to achieve a seamless whole.
Sonoma County is the other California Cabernet powerhouse, especially with vineyards from Alexander, Sonoma and Dry Creek valleys.
The 2012 Rodney Strong Alexander Valley ($28) to my palate falls more into the New World” style. This bottling continues to be one of the best Cabernet values around. Its extravagant black fruits and toasty oak make for a fairly full-bodied, complex wine finishing with refined tannins. This enables it to entice the drinker into early consumption but also tempt you to wait a few years to see how it develops.
Another one of the better values in this price range, the 2012 Kendall-Jackson Sonoma County “Grand Reserve” ($30) even shows more woodsy, spicy complexity than one would expect to take the drinking experience beyond the wholly enjoyable berry fruit.
The 2011 Arrowood Sonoma County ($30) offering is mostly Sonoma Valley fruit with some Alexander Valley. It strikes a nice compromise (as in successfully melding different characteristics) between bright red fruit, fresh tannins and soft texture to achieve a result that encourages current consumption.
Whether you prefer wines with deep, jammy fruit and opulent oak or wines with more reserved fruit but a more complex array of flavor nuances. Or you like big, tannic monsters or wines with polish and finesse. This column hopefully has demonstrated there are outstanding California Cabernet Sauvignons that can accomplish both.
As I wrote recently, Paso Robles (“passage of the oaks”) arguably is the most interesting wine region in California, which makes it one of the most interesting wine regions in the world. One of the most appealing elements is that it isn’t just about, say good Cabernet Sauvignon, though there is plenty of that. It’s that so many less familiar taste experiences await you – including Zinfandel and a wide variety of Rhône-style wines. While there are many good wines priced $15 and under, even the (increasingly more common) higher priced wines represent better values than comparable wines from better-known regions.Here is a rundown from my recent tastings.
J. Lohr. Jerry Lohr was a pioneer of modern Central Coast winegrowing and is one of the producers most responsible for the emergence of Paso Robles as a world-class wine region. Today, J. Lohr is one of the largest growers and wineries in the area producing over three-dozen different wines in a range of price categories.
I recently tasted several from the Rhône-inspired “Gesture” portfolio: a complex and spicy 2012 Syrah ($30), a ripe and woodsy 2012 Mourvèdre ($30), a crisp and creamy 2013 RVG (roussanne, viognier, grenache blanc, $30), a rich and juicy 2013 Viognier ($25), and a light, refreshing 2013 Grenache Rosé ($18).
Austin Hope. The Hope family has been farming Paso for nearly 40 years. Austin has lead the family’s venture into winemaking and produces a variety of wines under several different labels but the best are released under his own. The elegant and welcoming 2011 Grenache ($42), and powerful and succulent 2011 Syrah ($42) remind me why I have long been a fan.
Tablas Creek. In 1989, importer Robert Haas and the Perrin family of Château Beaucastel decided Paso Robles was the ideal place for their joint venture. They produce almost exclusively Rhône-style wines from organic, estate grown grapes. At all levels the wines are distinctive and represent excellent values.
Esprit de Tablas and Esprit de Tablas Blanc are the signature wines. They can rightly be called California versions of Château Beaucastel. The vines were propagated from cuttings from Beaucastel and like Beaucastel the red blend (2012, $55) emphasizes mourvèdre and the white blend (2012, $45) emphasizes roussanne.
The Côtes de Tablas tier was not represented in my tasting but can be described as a California version of good Cotes du Rhône. Similarly, the Patelin de Tablas line seems modeled after the lesser-known southern Rhône regions of Côtes du Ventoux (red) and Côtes du Luberon (white). Patelin de Tablas (2012, $20) is based on syrah; Patelin de Tablas Blanc (2013, $20) is based on grenache blanc. Tablas Creek also excels with varietal wines. I tasted two and both were very good: a bright and delicate 2012 Grenache ($40) and a lush and savory 2012 Roussanne ($35).
Paso Robles has become so highly regarded others want in on the act, like the wineries below.
Rabble Wine Company. Rob Murray, a grower for many years recently got into winemaking and looked to Paso Robles with two brands. Tooth & Nail deftly blends Rhône and Bordeaux varietals: cabernet sauvignon, syrah, petite sirah and malbec for “The Possessor” (2012, $27) and malbec and syrah for “The Fiend” (2012, $27). Force of Nature focuses more on varietals, like the concentrated and woodsy 2013 Cabernet Sauvignon ($23) and the lush, enticing 2013 Zinfandel ($23). Also, I don’t normally comment on labels but all of the Force of Nature labels but, as you can see here with the Zinfandel, Force of Nature’s labels are remarkable.
Halter Ranch. Crafting 100% estate-grown wines that are sustainably farmed, Halter Ranch also produces several Rhône and Bordeaux inspired wines worth seeking out. The 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon ($32) was well made and satisfying.
Niner Estates. This winery has been producing wines made from sustainably grown estate grapes in its LEED Certified winery since the early 2000s. My tasting showcased a deeply fruited and focused 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon Bootjack Ranch ($35), a velvety, earthy 2012 Malbec ($30) and an intense, savory and spicy 2012 Syrah ($30).
Clayhouse. Based in Washington State, the Middleton family established Clayhouse ten years ago. I tasted two really good values, both from the family’s Estate Red Cedar Vineyard: a nicely balanced, fruit forward 2012 Malbec ($14) and a 2012 Syrah ($14) loaded with berry fruit.
And these are just the beginning. With over 200 wineries and now 11 AVAs (geographically delineated American Viticultural Areas), not to mention numerous artisan food producers, a growing number of excellent restaurants and Firestone Walker brewery (when you need a break from all that great wine), Paso Robles is also a fantastic wine travel destination.
