Rich, Author at The People's Palate with Rich Mauro

March 2, 2015

SAMUEL ADAMS INTRODUCES TWO NEW REBEL IPAs AND ITS SEASONAL BOUBLE BOCK

I tend to drink more wine than beer during the winter months and when I do drink beer, my choices tend more toward the darker beers. Still, do like India Pale Ales (IPA). So, I was intrigued when I heard the Boston Beer Company has just released two new iterations of the popular Rebel IPA, a West Coast-style IPA that was introduced in 2014. Like Rebel IPA, these brews emphasize the assertive aromatics and flavors that have come to be associated with Pacific Northwest hop varieties.

Rebel IPA uses Cascade, Centennial and Simcoe hops for its base, as do the new Rebel Rouser Double IPA and Rebel Rider Session IPA. Rebel IPA adds Chinook and Amarillo hops to bring home the fruity and spicy qualities typical of West Coast IPAs. It also stakes out territory between Rebel Rouser and Rebel Rider as it charts 6.5% ABV and 45 IBUs.

And it is worth pointing out, as Samuel Adams clarifies, “To create a Double IPA and a Session IPA that showcase the unique flavors of West Coast hop varietals, the brewers didn’t simply double Rebel IPA’s hops to create Rebel Rouser Double IPA, or cut them in half to brew Rebel Rider Session IPA.” Instead, Samuel Adams brewers conducted extensive research in their nano-brewery testing different hop varieties in the kettle and different hopping techniques during the dry-hopping process.

Rebel Rouser Double IPA (8.4% ABV and 85 IBUs)

Bravo, Galaxy, Simcoe, and Centennial hops were added to the kettle to achieve the desired bitterness. To balance that bitterness and enhance hop aromas, five American hop varieties from the Pacific Northwest – Amarillo, Cascade, Centennial, Simcoe, Zeus – were used during the dry-hopping. Those aromatics are strong lemon and grapefruit with pine, spice and black pepper overtones. The underlying malt gives weight and a foundation for this big, flavorful brew.

Rebel Rider Session IPA (45 IBUs and 4.5% ABV)

It seems these days every brewery is making a double IPA and a session IPA. I guess it shouldn’t be a surprise they would want to capitalize on the popularity of the IPA style with variations on the theme. Rebel Rider is Samuel Adams’ attempt to capture the distinctive hop character of an IPA in a lighter body.

It is brewed with Citra, Topaz and Cascade hops. Then, it is dry-hopped with Centennial, Cascade, and Simcoe hops. Its extremely citrusy character also has a nice malty background. The flavors also showcase these bright hop notes and are accented by metallic bitterness. Rebel Rider is a nice Session IPA but it is not my favorite. But I’m not a fan of most session beers. So keep that in mind.

Double Bock (9.5% ABV 25 IBUs)

A member of the Brewmaster’s Collection, Double Bock has been a Samuel Adams seasonal since 1988. But it is a lager style that dates to the 13^th century. This one is a lager brewed with over a half pound of malt per bottle. Tettnang, Tettnanger, and Hallertau Mittelfrueh hops join the Samuel Adams two-row pale malt blend and Caramel 60 malts to produce sweet caramel and toffee, but also coffee and even cherry notes, finishing with subtle hop character.

February 26, 2015February 26, 2015

SWEET WINES, RED AND WHITE, TANTALIZE THE PALATE AND WARM THE SOUL

Whether you drink them with dessert, as dessert, or just to sip and and relax, sweet wines are appropriate throughout the year. In this column, I give you some considerations for sweet wines to top your evening or anytime you desire a delicious dessert wine).

My first choice is Port. Sweet and red! And this time of year I just can’t resist it. The only challenge is there are a variety of styles, so it can be difficult deciding which to buy. This Portuguese elixir is a different sort of sweet wine. High alcohol (fortified with brandy) and bursting with red and black fruit flavors, it is powerful, even in styles that fashion a sense of elegance. The richness, intensity and natural sweetness balanced with refreshing tannin and finished with an alcoholic kick always warm my soul.

To many, the intensity and power of Vintage Port make it the most prized but it also usually is the most expensive approaching and sometimes exceeding $100 per bottle. A more affordable place to start is with a Ruby Port, the youngest and most accessible style. It is blended from several different vintages and offers fresh, straightforward, grapey fruit that is ready to drink upon release. Graham’s “Six Grapes” Reserve ($24) is one of the classics with its deep black fruits and aromas of ripe plums and dark cherries.

Or take a step up for Graham’s Six Grapes “Special Old Vines Edition” ($42), a very special elaboration of the style produced to commemorate 100 years of the Six Grapes emblem. It is more expensive but it’s pure cherry and berry flavors are concentrated yet fresh with a luscious texture and hints of chocolate.

Some Port aficionados consider Tawny Port – known less for power and concentration than for complexity, purity and finesse – to be the ultimate expression of Port. Tawny Ports also marry several vintages but spend extensive time in casks, for periods ranging from ten to forty years.

While 20, 30 and 40 Year Old Tawnies are ethereal taste experiences; they also can cost from $50 to more than $100. For the best introduction to the style, 10-Year-Old Tawnies are the most accessible and affordable choice. I’ve been enjoying the Graham’s 10 Year Old ($36), which presents dried fruit notes (cherry and orange) that are still pure and vibrant, balanced with almonds, brown spices, and a touch of caramel.

Although some experiment with Port during a meal, it is best enjoyed slightly chilled at the end of the meal, either with dessert, cheese, dark chocolate or as dessert itself.

For those of you who prefer the lighter touch, though still quite rich nature of a white dessert wine, I suggest an Austrian from Kracher Wienlaubenhof. In recent years, Austria has drawn a lot of attention for its challengingly named but fresh, spicy and weighty Grüner Veltliner. What many people may not realize is that, like Germany, Austria produces some amazing sweet wines.

They typically also are labeled according to the same ripeness and sweetness levels as are German wines. And Kracher is the most famous name in Austrian wine. A family-owned winery now on its third generation, Kracher is especially renowned for its dessert wines. Here are three special ones from the top three tiers that actually are reasonably priced.

As you go up this list of wines, they get sweeter, deeper and richer, increasingly complex and concentrated, potentially even influenced by the presence of botrytis. Again, these are enjoyed best with dessert or on their own but they actually can work well with spicy foods.

2011 Auslese Cuvée ($23, 375ml) 60% chardonnay, 40% welschriesling (unrelated to
ermany’s riesling). A late harvest selection with bright and crisp peach, honey and lemon.

2011 Beerenauslese Cuvée ($34, 375ml) 60% welschriesling, 40% chardonnay. From individually selected berries, this one switches the grape ratio with the result of stronger honey notes, spice, balancing acidity.

NV Trockenbeerenauslese ($28, 187ml) 55% welschriesling, 40% chardonnay, 5% traminer. From grapes so super ripe they are basically raisins with just a few drops per berry. They produce a wine so rich and lush with apricot and cream it is best drunk alone and savored in small doses.

Again, these wines are enjoyed best with dessert or cheese or on their own but they actually can work well with spicy foods. Enjoy!

February 22, 2015

SMALL SOUTH AMERICAN COUNTRY MAKES BID FOR RESPECTABILITY

When it comes to wine, South America is on the move.

Argentina has made a big splash with Malbec; Chile has made a lesser but still significant impact with Carmenere; and now Uruguay is poised to impress with Tannat. Tannat? You ask. Isn’t that a resident of an apartment building?

Actually, it is a good but underappreciated red wine grape. Tannat is best known as the principal red grape of the Madiran region in southwest France near the Pyrénées. In Madiran, wines made with tannat (named for its high tannin content) tend toward a more rustic profile – robust, tough, dark, dense, and tannic – with flavors of raspberry and benefitting from several years of aging.

In researching this column, I was impressed to find Uruguay is the fourth-largest wine-producing country in South America, behind Chile, Argentina, and Brazil. It is located on the Atlantic coast between Brazil to the north and Argentina to the south. Although wine grapes have been grown there for over 250 years, commercial winemaking dates to the 1870s with the arrival of Spanish immigrants. Thus, the introduction of tannat is attributed to Basque immigrants, as the grape is believed to have originated in northern Spain. In addition to tannat, mostly French grapes like cabernet sauvignon, merlot, sauvignon blanc, and viognier are grown. Also gaining favor among the whites is the Spanish grape albariño.

In contrast to Argentina and Chile, most Uruguayan wine is consumed by the county’s 3.5 million residents. And something like 90 percent of the grapes for that wine is grown in vineyards in the south of the country not far from the capital Montevideo and along the coast in the Canelones, Montevideo, Colonia, Maldonado, Florida and San Jose departments. The most important viticultural region is Canelones, a short drive from Montevideo (which also makes it convenient for tourists) but notable wineries are springing up inland to the west and east along the coast, including Carmelo, near the border with Argentina, and outside the resort town of Punta del Este on the coast.

And the over 200 wineries are almost exclusively small, family-owned producers. I’m told that Uruguay’s total annual production of 10 million cases is less than that of a single large producer in Chile or Argentina.

Similar to what has happened with malbec in Argentina, Uruguayan wineries’ use of more modern techniques in the vineyard and the cellar work to soften tannat’s harsher tendencies. Also, Uruguay’s warmer conditions (moderated by its coastal, maritime climate) encourage a longer growing season enabling the grape to ripen more reliably. The result typically is still quite intense and concentrated but more stylish, fresh and vibrant and can be enjoyed immediately upon release. I think I also detected savory qualities and pleasant bitterness.

The six Tannats in this tasting are reviewed in alphabetical order. Prices are estimates.

2012 Artesana Tannat ($16). American-owned and founded in 2007 in the Las Brujas district of Canelones, Artesana’s wines are made by its two women winemakers from its sustainably farmed, estate grown grapes. With twelve months in French and American oak, this wine shows strong aromas and concentrated flavors of dark plum, with hints of toasty oak, dusty and meaty notes, and brusque tannins.

2012 Bodega Garzón “Vartietales” ($16). named after the nearby town of Garzon in the Maldonado department about eleven miles from the ocean and the resort of Punta del Este, Bodega Garzón is a dramatic project including nut and olive groves, along with numerous outdoor activities. They are building what the winery says will be the first LEED-certified winery outside of North America. The wine is earthy with dark plum, graphite and charred notes on the nose. It’s riper with powdery tannins and a refined palate.

2013 Gimenez Mendez Alta Reserva ($28). This 75-year-old family winery owns vineyards in four areas of Canelones. This one comes from Las Brujas and presents smoke, meat, spice and racy prune in the nose followed by ripe fruit and a chewy texture on the palate.

2013 “Pueblo del Sol” Reserva ($16). From Familia Deicas, in the Juanico district of the Canelones department, the winery was founded in 1830 has become a leader in the Uruguayan wine industry. This is a rather straightforward but pleasing mix of prune, raisin fruit with accents of meat and chalk. The palate is smooth and fresh.

2013 “Don Prospero” Tannat Malbec ($20). The 105-year-old Pizzorno Family Estate in Canelones produced this 50/50 estate bottled blend showing ripe dark fruits with smoke and herbs. It drinks lively and juicy.

2011 Reinaldo de Lucca Reserve ($24). Located in the El Colorado district of the Canelones department, this is a family whose heritage reaches to Piemonte in Italy. The 75-year-old De Lucca is distinguished by its emphasis on sustainable practices. This wine is quite ripe, sporting a roasted and earthy quality with bright cherry fruit and a firm structure.

Clearly, Uruguay is set to emerge as a world-class wine and food destination. Foreign investment is funding exciting new wine projects, and some wineries are hiring high-profile consultants, such as Paul Hobbs, who is working for Juanico, Michel Rolland (Narbona) and Alberto Antonini (Garzon).

The wines are improving, the coastline is inviting and I keep reading the grass-fed beef is unparalleled (of course, certain Colorado ranchers might have something to say about that!). And the nation is taking another lesson from Argentina and more proactively promoting its wines, especially through Wines of Uruguay (who supplied the wines for this tasting). So expect better availability soon.

And Uruguay is forward looking beyond wine. Last year, The Economist named Uruguay Country of the Year, partly for legalizing same-sex marriage and partly for becoming the first country to legalize the production and the sale of marijuana, saying that those actions have “increased the global sum of human happiness at no financial cost.”

With improving quality and increasing promotion, especially through Wines of Uruguay (who supplied the wines for this tasting), Uruguayan wine is set to emerge on the international stage. Check it out!

January 18, 2015January 18, 2015

GIFT CARD WINES – TREAT YOURSELF!

Photo Credit: Featured Image Photo Courtesy of Duckhorn Vineyards

Did you get a gift card to a local wine shop this holiday season? Wondering what to do with it? Thinking it’ll be a nice treat to pick up something really good to save for a special occasion? Red or white, look down this column for some surefire options. These are the best wines I tasted this year that I haven’t already reviewed. If you really want to splurge, you

Given its pedigree and popularity, many of you likely will be on the lookout for a top notch California Cabernet Sauvignon. The Napa Valley winery Chappellet Vineyard, which has been producing at a high level since 1967, has the pedigree to match the grape. Its estate vineyards on Pritchard Hill produce classic mountain grown fruit – low yields and concentration. The 2012 Donn Chappellet Signature ($52) is a perfect example: dense but pure dark berries and firm tannins but great balance with an elegance inviting early consumption the structure to reward a decade of patience.

What about you Merlot lovers (or really anybody who loves red wine)? If you want to experience the heights of what West Coast Merlot can achieve, your search should begin with Duckhorn Vineyards, considered California’s premier Merlot producer for most of the last 40 years. The 2011 Three Palms Vineyard ($95), from the iconic vineyard on the northeast side of the Napa Valley floor, is the latest of what has been Duckhorn’s flagship wine since 1978. It offers layers of luscious red currant and cherry fruit with hints of toasty herbs and mocha spice. Like previous vintages, it has begun life tight and tough but is more appealing young than usual. Still, it will develop additional character and complexity with 5-10+ years time.

If you are a fan of the classic Burgundian varieties – chardonnay and pinot noir – a great winery for a splurge is Patz & Hall. This 26-year-old winery is a specialize in making single-vineyard and appellation specific Chardonnay and Pinot Noir wines from some of California’s best vineyards. The 2012 Hyde Vineyard Chardonnay ($58) comes from the Carneros region and one of the state’s most renowned vineyards. It deftly balances crisp, zesty acidity with richness and generous fruit. It is big and bold but also shows floral, spice and mineral notes. Exuberant orange and lemon meet buttery richness.

The 2012 Jenkins Ranch Pinot Noir ($60), from a prized Russian River Valley Vineyard, is packed with sweet black cherry and raspberry accented with earthy, spicy and floral notes. An appealing savory character and a lush texture are balanced with a focused mouthfeel and vibrant tannin.

Speaking of pinot noir, those of you also attracted to sparkling wine should look for the 2012 Sea Smoke “Sea Spray” Blanc De Noirs ($80). Within just fifteen years, estate grown wines from Sea Smoke’s hillside vineyard in the Santa Rita Hills at the western end of the Santa Ynez Valley has become some of the state’s most sought after Pinot Noir. And now this dramatic sparkling wine joins the portfolio. It is 100 percent pinot noir made in the Champagne Method. Very dry and crisp but a rich, a creamy mouthfeel wraps bright raspberry and pink grapefruit.

Moving on to another continent, Australia long has been recognized as producing the best syrah-based wines (here it’s called shiraz) next to France’s Rhone Valley. So, it shouldn’t be a surprise that Michel Chapoutier (whose family is one of the great Rhone producers) would partner with the wine importer Anthony Terlato to produce wine here. It also shouldn’t be a surprise that after just ten vintages Domaine Terlato & Chapoutier has emerged as a perennial winery to watch. Their 2011 “lieu dit Malakoff” Shiraz ($50) shows its mountain-grown origins in the Pyrenees of Central Victoria with solid structure and intensity but also lively acidity. This Malakoff vineyard is sleek with fine tannins delivering juicy black fruits and savory, earthy, meaty notes with touches of chocolate and black pepper

The 2009 L-Block Shiraz ($60) is a special selection from a L-shaped parcel of Lieu Dit Malakoff. It is distinguished by dramatic aromas and flavors of wild berry, stone, white pepper and anise. Particularly full bodied and layered, its silky texture is just right for the succulent fruit.

Finally, if you really want to splurge, here’s the most expensive and arguably the best wine of this esteemed list. And don’t be surprised that it comes from Chile. Also, don’t be surprised it comes from Concha y Toro, Chile’s largest wine company. It’s the 2010 Don Melchor Cabernet Sauvignon “Puente Alto Vineyard” ($125). This high-end label honors Don Melchor who created Concha y Toro in 1883. The vineyard is located in the Alto Maipo at the foot of the Andes Mountains, considered the best terroir for Cabernet Sauvignon in Chile. With 3% cabernet franc, it is balanced and fresh, mouth filling and sophisticated. Complexity is the key word for its aromas and flavors – black and red fruits, meat, herbs, baking spices, cocoa, oak and graphite. Fine tannins give it a lively lush texture but a firm finish. Eminently enjoyable now, it will age well for at least ten years. No wonder it was ranked #9 in The Wine Spectator’s Top 100. And with over 10,000 cases made, it should be the easiest of the wines in this column to find.

January 13, 2015January 19, 2015

WINE TRENDS FOR 2015, THE SEARCH FOR VALUE

I have been perusing various food and wine industry publications lately looking for their assessments of trends and predictions for 2015. I noticed that many mention the increasing turn to screw caps and alternative packaging, challenges to the three tier system of wine distribution and associated efforts to promote direct-to-consumer sales, the growing importance of the web, and expanding adoption of sustainable farming and winemaking.

Many also have mentioned the ongoing importance of value. As the economy continues to improve, wine producers and sellers are chomping at the bit to increase prices. Yet, most consumers are looking for value, even though there are reports many consumers are willing to trade up, at least a little bit.

Luckily, additional diversity and choice will benefit consumers. We as consumers naturally are concerned with getting the best value for our purchases. Basically, we look for the best quality possible at the best price possible. In the wine world we have a number of ways to achieve that this goal. One is to follow a contrarian approach.

While Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay are great and regions like Bordeaux, Napa, Burgundy and Sonoma produce countless fantastic wines, I advised consumers seeking high value to try more wines from lesser-known grape varieties and growing regions. I have long promoted such a strategy, which has the added benefit of exposing us to some great drinking experiences we wouldn’t otherwise have.

Two of my favorite places to look for value are Italy and Spain. These countries certainly have their great (and expensive) regions – Piedmont and Tuscany in Italy, Ribera del Duero and Rioja in Spain. While there certainly are values from these regions, for Italy, you are better off looking to the south. Try a Nero d’Avola from Sicily, a fiano or aglianico from Campania, or a Salice Salentino from Puglia to name few. For Spain, emerging regions include Toro (tempranillo), Jumilla (monastrell), and Vino de la Tierra de Castilla (garnacha).

Argentina and Chile also should be on your radar. Chilean Sauvignon Blanc compares favorably to the New Zealand variety and Chilean Cabernet Sauvignon continues to be a reasonable alternative to California’s. But for a more unique drinking experience, try a carmenère, which has all but disappeared from its home Bordeaux.

Speaking of French grapes that perform better in South America, the success of malbec has vaulted Argentina’s wine industry to among the best in the world. Its becoming common to see Argentinian Malbecs with the quality (and price) of the best wines anywhere. But even at lower levels, the quality surpasses many comparably priced wines.

And for you “Californiphiles” (I just invented that word), I suggest looking to Paso Robles. As much as I love the wines from great regions like Napa and Sonoma, Paso Robles arguably is the most interesting wine region in the state. This is a trend that has been building for over ten years and Paso is now set to take its place among the best in the world, not just the state. Here also a number of less familiar taste experiences await you (though also some pretty good Cabernet Sauvignon) – including Zinfandel, Syrah, Grenache, Viognier, Roussanne and creative Rhone-style blends. While there are many good wines priced $15 and under, even the (increasingly more common) higher priced wines represent better values than comparable wines from better-known regions.

Finally, wines from Portugal, Hungary, and Uruguay (who would have thought!) are poised for international attention. From Portugal, there are a variety of wines from indigenous grapes, including table wines from grapes traditionally used to make the great Port wines. Hungary, generally best known for its great Tokaji dessert wine, now is making really nice dry white wines from its grape – furmint. Sandwiched between Argentina and Brazil, Uruguay may seem like an unlikely place for good wine but the country is making a name for itself with tannat, another French grape making better wine in South America.

Look for my columns on these regions in the coming months.

December 22, 2014

LET’S HAVE A SPARKLING HOLIDAY!

Although sparkling wine is always an appropriate choice for any occasion any time of year, no question the holidays are the prime time for bubbly. Whether your celebration is for Hanukah, Christmas, Kwanzaa, or New Year’s Eve – or others I’m not thinking of right now – there are many opportunities to enhance your celebration with a sparkler as the wine of choice.

It’s amazing to me effervescent wine is so popular there are versions made in virtually every wine region. While Champagne from France is the benchmark for sparkling wine, as this column reflects I delight in finding and recommending good ones from other regions. And I’m not talking about only using them for toasts. Consider drinking these sparklers throughout your meal.

From France, Crémant is the term used to denote sparkling wines not made in Champagne. Crémant d’Alsace is one of the best and an affordable alternative to Champagne. It is made using the “methode traditionnelle,” meaning the bubbles are created using the Champagne method where the second fermentation occurs in the bottle.

Try the Louis Sipp NV (nonvintage) Brut ($25). This nearly one hundred year old family winery has produced a blend of pinot blanc, auxerrois, chardonnay and pinot noir that is typically light, fresh and fruity with a hint of spicy complexity. There also are two really good options from Domaine Rieflé, another family owned concern that has been growing grapes in Alsace since 1850. Designated “Bonheur Festif” (translated as “festive happiness”), the NV Brut ($20), equal parts pinot banc and auxerrois, offers lively apple and peach and the NV Brut Rosé ($22) reveals its 100% pinot noir with delicate, fresh berries and light brown spice.

Even more modest prices can be had with Spanish Cava. Most Cava is produced by the traditional method using the indigenous grapes macabeo, xarel-lo, parellada in the Penedès Valley in Cataluna not far from Barcelona. It has long been my go-to bubbly for parties and a friendly accompaniment for meals.

Founded in 1865, Mont-Ferrant is the oldest cellar in the region. Its 2010 Brut Reserva ($15) comes across as smooth yet lively, light with tasty apple and citrus. The NV Brut Rose ($20), a blend of garnacha and monastrell with a touch of pinot noir, delivers juicy red and black fruits in a surprisingly full frame. More expensive but more complex, the 2008 “Berta Bouzy” Extra Brut ($28) celebrates the wife of the family patriarch who kept the property operating while her husband had to leave Spain during its civil war.

Codorníu has been a premier sparkling wine producer since 1872 when the family introduced the traditional method to Spain. The family’s winemaking history actually stretches back more than 450 years to 1551. Anna de Codorníu Brut ($15) celebrates the life of Codorníu’s last heiress and the family she guided. It was the first Cava to use chardonnay in its cuvee, 70 percent in this release with 30 percent parellada. It shows some richness and a little sweetness, with a solid structure and a creamy texture and more fruit than expected – citrus, tropical and strawberry aromas; and apple, citrus, and raspberry flavors. The Brut Rosé ($15) takes the French approach a step further by blending 70% pinot noir and 30% chardonnay. Bright red cherry and strawberry lead a touch of apple while it drinks with a touch of sweetness.

Cava recently has had competition in the value category from Prosecco, the fresh frizzante from the Veneto region of northeastern Italy. Prosecco – the name of the production zone, while glera is the dominant grape – unlike the other sparklers in this report is produced using the Charmat Method. In this case, the bubbles are produced by inducing the second fermentation in a pressurized tank, instead of the bottle.

One of the better values I have had in awhile is the Pizzolato Fields NV Brut ($12). The Pizzolato family has been working in agriculture for more than five generations on an estate located north of the town of Treviso. This Brut is made from organically grown grapes using indigenous yeasts and is certified non-GMO. It strikes me as a touch sweeter than most Prosecco but its peach, apple and honey notes strike a balance with delicate freshness. I also enjoyed a new Presecco from the California-based brand Ménage à Trois. The NV Dry ($15) is crisp, clean, a bit floral and shows hints of apple pear, and lemon.

For my California selection, I’m recommending a reliable choice in the so-called “value” category – Barefoot Bubbly. Barefoot Cellars has been churning out good value wines since 1986 and Barefoot Bubby since 1998. Today, they produce thirteen still wines and eleven sparkling. The mainstays of the Barefoot Bubbly line are the Brut Cuvée and Extra Dry, both are made from chardonnay using the Charmat Method and priced at $11. The Brut is not as dry as the term usually indicates. But it is clean and crisp, with nice lemon and apple fruit balanced with creamy notes. The Extra Dry and shows nice fresh citrus pear, and tropical fruit; it is slightly sweet but finishes with refreshing acidity. These wines are ideal for parties and family gatherings and make a good base for the ever popular mimosa.

The biggest surprise of my sparkling wine tasting was the bubbles from Graham Beck Wines, whose vineyards are located in the Western Cape province of South Africa. Graham Beck is known for producing affordable wines that offer good value. This proved especially true with the sparkling wines.

The NV Brut ($15), 55% chardonnay and 45% pinot noir, offers lively apricot and citrus with a crisp finish. The NV Brut Rosé ($15) shows its 59% pinot noir and 41% chardonnay with light cherry and strawberry and fresh palate. The two vintage companions – 2009 Blanc de Blancs ($25) and 2009 Brut Rosé ($25) – for a modest premium provide significant additional intensity and complexity.

December 9, 2014

DESCHUTES, GREEN FLASH RELEASE NEW WINTER BEERS

Although I typically shift my beer tastes more to the heavier, darker beers this time of year, I have come to appreciate the seasonality of the so-called “fresh hop” beers also released in the fall. Naturally, “fresh hop” refers to a beer made with just harvested hops to take advantage of their … well, fresh citrusy and spicy qualities.

This column reviews four such beers but also a couple of special releases of those darker beers I so anticipate.

GREEN FLASH

Founded in San Diego in 2002, Green Flash Brewing has built a reputation as an IPA specialist. By my count, there are nearly a dozen different types. And they’ve just released two new fresh hop IPAs to add to a portfolio that are worthy additions.

Jibe Session IPA (4.0% ABV, 65 IBU)

It seems every brewery is adding a “session” IPA to their lineup these days and Green Flash’s contribution is called “Jibe.” Sometimes these lower alcohol beers, regardless of style, also are lower on flavor. Not so with Jibe. Yes it is light and easy drinking. But its Warrior, Chinook and Cascade hops make for a still full-flavored, crisp drink with spicy, hay, and light malt aromas and flavors that fade into light citrus, while finishing spicy and with ample bitterness.

Soul Style Single IPA (6.8% ABV, 75 IBU)

Green Flash describes “Soul Style” as a Single IPA, in this case positioning the brew between the toned down session IPAs and the extremes of the Double and Triple IPAs. It featuring Simcoe, Citra, Warrior and Cascade hops and opens with strong lemon-lime citrus and touches of orange and malt. In addition to these qualities, it also shows a spicy herb character more pronounced in the mouth.

DESCHUTES

Deschutes Brewery, the 26 year-old brewery named after the adjacent Deschutes River in Bend, Oregon has just released this year’s models of Hop Trip and “Chasin’ Freshies,” both from the Bond Street Series: experimental beers made as part of an exploration of “the many nuances and endless possibilities of the almighty hop.”

“Hop Trip” Fresh Hop Pale Ale (5.9% ABV, 38 IBU)

In this case, fresh hop means the Deschutes team brings just harvested hops from nearby fields to the brewery within a few hours of picking. Those include Salmon Safe Nugget, Centennial, and Fresh Crystal hops from Sodbuster Farms that are balanced with NW Pale, Extra Special, Cara-Munich and Carapils malts. Refreshing citrus and pine meld with malt and bitter herbs. Even with its friendly ABV and IBU numbers, it delivers a solid and mouthfilling, yet nicely balanced drink.

“Chasin’ Freshies” Fresh Hop IPA (7.4% ABV, 65 IBU)

In contrast to Hop Trip, Chasin’ Freshies (a reference to the skier’s eternal pursuit of fresh powder) is made each year with different fresh hops(and it’s an IPA, not a Pale Ale). This year it is newly harvested Bravo and Fresh Mosaic hops (from John I Haas growers). These are complimented with Pilsner Malt and Flaked Oats . And it sure is fresh; it’s like a just sliced open grapefruit. But it is given more interest with touches of orange and a suggestion of piney spice and a malty note.

And now two Deschutes releases about as far away from fresh hop styles as you can get:

“Abyss” 2013 Reserve Imperial Stout (11.1 ABV%, 70 IBU)

The tenth vintage of this Imperial Stout, part of the brewery’s Reserve Series, is a powerhouse – note its high ABV and IBU. It is made with blackstrap molasses, brewers licorice, vanilla beans and cherry bark with 28 percent aged six months in bourbon, Oregon oak and pinot noir barrels. And how about the base of six malt varieties – Pale, Black, Chocolate, Black Barley, Roasted Barley, and Wheat – and four hop varieties – Millennium, Nugget, Styrian, and German Northern Brewer! What you get out of all this is a concoction that is so dramatic it almost suggests a barleywine. I pick up roasted grains, carame, bitter herb, and lemongrass aromas and flavors. It is intense with great depth and complexity. This is the kind of beer that actually can develop with age. Buy one to drink now and one to age for a year.

Zarabanda (6.7% ABV, 13 IBUs)

Zarabanda is a new collaboration beer with world famous Chef José Andrés. Deschutes describes it as a spiced saison – a Spanish take on the popular style that took their brewers three years working with Chef Andrés to create. The name takes its inspiration from the similarly named Spanish dance of the 1500s, which was so lively and animated it became controversial and eventually banned. A complex body formed from Pilsner, Vienna, Spelt, Flaked Oats, Munich, and Crystal malts is infused with a classic French Saison Yeast strain, Sour Wort and Saaz hops. The addition of dried lime, pink peppercorn, sumac, and lemon verbena provide the brew’s distinctive character. Not surprisingly it opens with aromas reminiscent of a Belgian farmhouse ale with pronounced clove, vanilla and a hint of lime. Spicy notes continue in the mouth but the lemon rally emerges to dominate.

November 27, 2014November 27, 2014

CELEBRATE AMERICA’S IMMIGRANT HERITAGE THIS THANKSGIVING

Photo Credit: Wikipedia

America is a nation of immigrants. Not surprisingly, we have a long history of enjoying wines imported from other countries, especially Europe. For instance, some of us remember Thomas Jefferson as much for his love of French wine as for his founding father role. Of course, America’s best wines are made from vines that “immigrated” from other places, again primarily Europe.

So, this Thanksgiving I plan to share with my family several wines imported from European countries well known for their great wines.

From my own country of origin – Italy – I am looking forward to four Tuscan wines. From Castello di Nipozzano, a property that dates to the 11^th century and now is owned by Frescobaldi, one of the great families of Italian wine, the 2010 Riserva Chianti Rufina ($25) is a really good value. With its pure black fruit and herbal spice notes, it is full yet balanced enough to be easy drinking as it finishes with a refreshing palate.

The 2011 “Vecchie Viti” Chianti Rufina ($30) is another excellent value. Made with grapes from old vines, it ironically is a tradition in the Frescobaldi family to dedicate the wine to new borns in the family. It is aromatic and drinks with elegance offering bright red fruits, licorice and spice.

The other two wines I’m interested in give a nod to Italy’s neighbor France by blending the native sangiovese with small amounts of French varieties. The 2011 Brancaia Tre Rosso ($23) (as its name indicates) melds three grape varieties – sangiovese, merlot and cabernet sauvignon – from Brancaia’s three Tuscan estates into a sleek whole with cherry fruit and touches of spice and chocolate with roasted notes.

From Castello Banfi’s estate vineyards in the southern hills of Montalcino, comes another modernistic assemblage – its name means “dark beauty” signifying a cuvee of red grape varieties primarily sangiovese with small amounts of French varieties. The 2011 “BelnerO” ($29) delivers tasty black cherry and plum accented with vanilla, coffee and light mineral notes, reflecting the area’s stony, calcareous terroir.

Bordeaux in France is one of the most celebrated wine regions in the world. Beyond the expensive wines of the famous chateau, though, is a lot of sound, affordable wine. I’m especially intrigued with the 2012 Les Hauts de Lagarde ($13), which is made from organically grown grapes and is non-GMO verified by the Non-GMO Project. Its 65% merlot, 25% cabernet sauvignon, and 10% cabernet franc yield a soft drink with a touch of oak, a smoky, earth character and pretty plum and cherry fruit.

On to Spain and the value theme of this column continues. The 2010 Bodegas Iranzo “Vertus” ($12) is another wine made from organically grown grapes and verified non-GMO. Iranzo, with vineyards in the hills just west of the Mediterranean coast near Valencia, claims to be Spain’s oldest estate bottled winery dating back to 1335. The wine is 100% tempranillo and a Crianza (meaning aged six months). The result is fresh red berries, raisin and savory notes with a soft but tight texture.

Although the 2009 CUNE Rioja Reserva ($28) is twice the price of the Vertus, it is well worth the extra investment. It comes from a winery founded in 1879 and still family-owned and -operated. It is 85% tempranillo (with the rest equal parts mazuelo, graciano and garnacha) and the extra time in barrel and bottle (minimum total of three years for Reserva) produces a nicely balanced wine. While it still exhibits fresh, bright black and red berries, it is offset with a touch of earth and drinks elegant, yet lively.

Finally, I really like these outstanding “einwanderers” from Germany. For my money, German Riesling is the ideal white wine for Thanksgiving (or anytime of year!). As luscious and delicious as are the riper and sweeter Spätlese and Auslese, it is the off-dry Kabinett that is most suited to drinking with the widest variety of foods.

Making wine in the Mosel Valley since 1561, the wines of Friedrich-Wilhelm-Gymnasium have been a favorite choice of mine for many years. The 2012 Graacher Himmelreich Kabinett ($22) is delightful with its crisp lemon, peach, apricot, green apple and pear; and I even think I can taste the blue slate minerality that is the hallmark of this vineyard.

From the Mittelrhein, an area sandwiched between the more famous Mosel and Rheingau, the Weingart estate has produced a 2012 Bopparder Hamm Engelstein Kabinett that is a particular treat. With the exceedingly steep slopes of the area, it is not surprising relatively few attempt viticulture here. But I’m sure glad Florian Weingart has accepted the challenge. This wine, marked “feinherb +” to indicate it is a little sweet, is quite racy with juicy pear, apple, and lemon, followed by intriguing spiciness.

The 2011 Von Winning Riesling “in Deidesheim” ($20) comes from a winery founded in 1849 in the Pfalz region (stretching south of the Rheingau). This one is bracing with citrus, green apple and pear and an underlying hint of minerality.

Happy Thanksgiving to all, whatever you are drinking!

November 23, 2014

SAMUEL ADAMS’ STUDY OF THE LAGER STYLE

Count me surprised when a few weeks ago I received samples of the six beers in the Samuel Adams “Adventures in Lager Variety Pack.” I thought, what a cool idea to compare different styles of lager.

First, let’s establish the parameters. The lager style was developed in Bavaria in the sixteenth century when the benefits of cold storage were discovered. So, today a lager is defined as any beer that is fermented with bottom-fermenting yeast at colder temperatures. This is contrasted with the other basic style of beer, the ale, which is any beer fermented with top fermenting yeast, typically fermented at warmer temperatures.

Let’s also be clear the six beers in the variety pack only scrape the surface of the eighteen styles of European-Germanic lager styles identified by the Brewers Association, not to mention the twelve other styles they list.

The first beer out of the box was the iconic Boston Lager, which I have reviewed before. It’s still a fine example of a Vienna-Style lager, tasty roasted malt character balanced with modest Noble hop accents. Here are my notes on the rest of the pack.

Samuel Adams Noble Pils (4.9% ABV, 34 IBUs)

This one is a Bohemian-style Pilsner, thus I assume intended to mimic the Pilsners of what is now the Czech Republic, the place where the Pilsner style originated (in the city of Pilsen) in the mid-1800s. “Noble” refers to the use of all five noble hops —Hallertau Mittelfrüh, Tettnang Tettnanger, Spalt Spalter, Saaz and Hersbrucker. Bright hoppy citrus aromas combine with hints of malt and spice. Its flavor opens spicy then gives way to bitter herbs and finishes balanced with a sweet maltiness from the Bohemian spring barley. As per the style it is flavorful, yet easy drinking.

Sam Adams Double Black (7.0% ABV, 30 IBUs)

This one is a Double Schwarzbier, meaning Samuel Adams “doubled down” on the traditional dark lager style significantly increasing the ABV and enhancing the richness of the typical black lager. This one also intensifies the aromas coffee and roasted malt. These carry over into the mouth picking up some creamy chocolate while finishing with a touch of fruitiness.

Samuel Adams Helles Bock (7.0% ABV, 23 IBUs)

Bock is a strong lager known for its rich sweet malt taste, low hop bitterness and higher alcohol. “Helles” means “pale” to distinguish it from the darker bocks. I’d say this one accurately reflects those descriptions. The Tettnang Tettnanger Noble hops declare their presence in the brew’s herbal spice notes. The nose also is pleasantly malty.

I also liked the lively, tangy and spicy palate as it was balance with malty sweetness.

Samuel Adams Double Pilsner (8.6% ABV, 80+ IBUs)

If Double Bock “doubles down” on the Scharzbier style, this Double Pilsner “double up” on the hops typically underrepresented in Pilsners (as you can see in the ABV and IBUs). Actually that is single hop, the Hallertau Mittelfrüh. The company says they use twelve pounds of hops per barrel. And it really shows with intense aromas of hoppy bitterness, grapefruit and spicy citrus. A similar profile continues in the mouth, which really brings forth intense spicy herb notes, tamed just slightly with creamy malt.

Samuel Adams The Vixen (8.5% ABV, 20 IBUs)

Combine the maltiness of a bock with the intensity and complexity of dark chocolate or cocoa and you get an unusual hybrid beer that, when done right, is surprisingly rich and complex. One of the best known is Samuel Adams’ Chocolate Bock, which has been popular enough to encourage the brewery to experiment with variations, such as the Cherry Chocolate Bock. Now, taking a cue from recipes for chili that include an infusion of chocolate and chocolate desserts that gain intrigue with the addition of chile pepper, comes The Vixen, which Samuel Adams’ describes as a “Chocolate Chili Bock.”

It opens with definite chocolate and red pepper, a certain effect of being brewed with ancho and chipotle chilies and cinnamon, then aging on a bed of Ecuadorian cocoa nibs. These qualities carry over on the palate, which has the fresh, firm impact expected of a bock and a slightly sweet roasted malt finish. The chile peppers remind you of their presence but never get in the way.

November 8, 2014

TRY VERSATILE CALIFORNIA PINOT NOIR FOR THE HOLIDAYS

(Featured image courtesy Goldeneye winery)

Pinot Noir at its best is all about expression of its source. It maybe why the French invented the term “terroir.” In California, there are numerous appellations along the stretch from Mendocino to Santa Barbara where fine Pinot Noir is made. In my recent tastings, most of them were represented and produced wines I can recommend.

First, two wines labeled with just a “California” designation that deliver good quality at a reasonable price: 2012 Kendall-Jackson “Vintner’s Reserve” ($24) for its inviting berries and silky texture and 2012 Gnarly Head California ($12), which is fairly basic but consumer friendly.

Mendocino County is best known for Zinfandel and Gewurztraminer but in recent years has taken its place among reliable sources of Pinot Noir, especially the Anderson Valley. And Goldeneye, a project of Napa Valley’s Duckhorn, has emerged as a leader. The 2011 vintage portfolio firmly establishes that position.

I was especially impressed with the “Gowan Creek Vineyard” ($80) and “Confluence Vineyard” ($80). Both exhibit intense dark berry fruit, toasty oak, baking spices, a rich texture and strong tannins suggesting a long life. Gowan Creek was more herbal; Confluence had more forest notes. The 2011 “Ten Degrees” ($115) also is rich, full and tannic but stratospherically expensive. And the 2011 Anderson Valley ($55) at half the price deftly combines power and elegance, ripe berry fruit and firm tannins.

Two other very good Anderson Valley wines – 2011 Fulcrum ($54) and 2012 CrossBarn ($35) – offer nice dark berry fruit with varietal earthiness. The Fulcrum is soft and juicy, the CrossBarn elegant and lively. Nearly as good, the 2012 Masút Estate Vineyard Mendocino County ($40) delivers nice berry fruit, earthy spice and a soft texture.

Sonoma County, especially the Russian River Valley, Sonoma Coast and Carneros, contains arguably the most abundant sources for Pinot Noir in the state. The Russian River Valley especially produces many of California’s most celebrated and expensive Pinot Noirs. Patz & Hall, a Chardonnay and Pinot Noir specialist, delivered two of my favorites. The 2010 Burnside Vineyard ($70) is the bigger wine, rich and lush but vibrant and graceful. The 2011 Chenoweth Ranch ($58) successfully mixes intense berries and spice with a structured, lively palate. The vibrant, generous and silky 2012 Rodney Strong “Estate” ($25) and the spicy and firm 2012 Davis Bynum “Jane’s Vineyard” ($40) also are worth attention.

The Sonoma Coast, California’s newest “hot” Pinot Noir region provided two very good options. The vibrant 2012 CrossBarn ($35) nicely balances ripe fruit with earthy notes and firm tannins. The 2011 Fulcrum “Gap’s Crown Vineyard” ($57) is sweet, yet savory and creamy, with gripping tannins. There also were two nice wines with a Sonoma County designation – 2012 Simi ($24), with its cherry and smoky notes and a nicely balanced 2012 Decoy ($25) with bright fruit and spicy herbs.

Traveling to the Central Coast, Monterey (including Arroyo Seco, Chalone and Santa Lucia Highlands) also produces some outstanding Pinot Noir. I have two good ones for you. The 2012 La Crema Monterey ($23) shows pleasant red berry notes with touches of oak and earth. The 2011 Fulcrum “Brosseau Vineyard” Chalone ($54) displays rich red berries and savory herbs, with an intriguing minerality likely attributable to Chalone’s unique limestone and granite soils.

Farther south, in San Louis Obispo County, the Arroyo Grande Valley and the Edna Valley often are overlooked but produce some fine Pinot Noir. From a pioneer of the Arroyo Grande Valley, the 2012 Laetitia “Estate” ($25) shows elegance, balance and vibrancy.

Finally, next to Sonoma, Santa Barbara County (thanks to the Santa Maria Valley and the Santa Ynez Valley) has emerged as the premier California Pinot Noir region. From the Santa Maria Valley, the 2012 Byron ($29) delivers concentrated berry fruit, toasty oak, and earthy notes, in a focused, yet supple frame. The 2011 Alta Maria ($28) has really nice dark fruits with spicy, herbal and earthy notes and an appealing freshness. The 2012 Cambria “Julia’s Vineyard” ($25) is juicy with light spice. And you will appreciate 2012 Byron Santa Barbara County ($20) for its fresh, plump fruit and touch of cinnamon.