Author: Rich

Over the last couple of decades, the state of Washington has emerged as a premier winegrowing region, second only to California in the U.S. and the Horse Heaven Hills is one the reasons. Technically a sub-appellation of the massive Columbia Valley, it has been the source of some of Washington’s most celebrated wines.

Horse Heaven Hills is located in south central Washington along the Washington-Oregon border. Naturally bounded on the north by the Yakima Valley and on the south by the Columbia River, the Horse Heaven Hills had its first vinifera plantings in 1972 at what is now Champoux Vineyard but wasn’t designated as its own appellation until 2005. The area has an arid and semi-arid, continental climate, receiving an average of 9 inches of precipitation annually. It is among Washington’s warmer growing regions, though, it is noticeably more moderate closer to the river.  Proximity to the Columbia River results in very windy conditions. Although the winds tend to stress the vines and toughen grape skins, they have a moderating effect on temperature extremes and protect against vine diseases, mold and rot.

Of its 570,000 acres, nearly 15,000 are planted to grapes, around 27% of the state’s total. Of the total 37 varieties planted, two-thirds of the acreage is planted to red wine grapes – mostly cabernet sauvignon and merlot but also cabernet franc, malbec, syrah and zinfandel – and one-third to white wine grapes – mostly chardonnay and riesling but also sauvignon blanc.

Located about 3 ½ hours from Seattle or 3 hours from Portland, the nearest wine country towns are Richland (45 minutes) and Prosser (30 minutes). This still is primarily a growing region, not really focused on tourism. There are more than thirty vineyards but only six commercial wineries and one tasting room.  The first wine grape plantings were in 1972 but it wasn’t designated its own appellation until 2005. This still is primarily a growing region, not really focused on tourism. There are more than thirty vineyards but only six commercial wineries and one tasting room.

But the proof is in the wines. Below is a sampling of the quality available:

2012 Chateau St. Michelle Cabernet Sauvignon ($28). This winery is THE big player in Washington wine with a history back to the 1930s. Its Canoe Ridge Estate vineyard, planted in 1991, is the source for this and several perennial values. It lush texture displays rich dark and blue fruits, fresh oak, eucalyptus and cocoa.

2013 Columbia Crest “H_3” Cabernet Sauvignon ($15). From a major brand within the St. Michelle portfolio that has been one of the best value brands in the world since its debut in 1984, H₃ is, of course, the label they use for wines made of Horse Heaven Hills’ grapes. Its forward plum and blueberry fruit dance with fresh oak on a satiny floor that delivers way above its price level.

2013 Mercer Cabernet Sauvignon ($20). The Mercer family surprisingly has a long history in the area, with ancestors arriving here in 1886. They were the first to plant wine grapes in the area in 1972 on a site that is now the famous Champoux vineyard. But it wasn’t until 2005 that the family decided to make their own wine.. But they didn’t make their own wine until 2005. This Cabernet has nicely integrated plum and creamy oak, a light dusty note with friendly prune, currant and herbal notes finishing fresh.

2010 Coyote Canyon Vineyard H/H Estates Reserve “Big John Cab” ($32). Although the vineyard was planted in 1994, the owners didn’t make their own wine until 2006. This one has plump dark fruits, light earth/forest notes, and a hint of eucalyptus in a light frame finishing lively.

2013 Alexandria Nicole “Quarry Butte” ($26). From the estate Destiny Ridge Vineyard (planted in 1998), this blend is 56% cabernet sauvignon, 22% merlot, 10% cabernet franc and dabs of malbec, syrah and petit verdot. It bursts with bright blackberry and black currant delivered in a firm but lush texture, accented with fresh tobacco.

2012 Buty Columbia Rediviva ($50). From the Phinny Hill Vineyard, this 84% cabernet sauvignon, 16% syrah wine opens with herbal and spice notes that quickly give way to rich black cherry and plum gliding along the mouth with an inviting texture finishing with ample but refined tannins suggesting a long life and easily justifying its price. Founded in 2000, Buty has emerged as one of Washington’s best wineries.

NOTE: Featured image courtesy of Horse Heaven Hills Winegrowers

Some of my favorite wines anywhere have their origin in the south of France, particularly the Rhône Valley. The valley, which runs roughly from Vienne in the north to Avignon in the south, is divided geographically and viticulturally into two regions – north and south. Most Rhône wines are red, though there are a few notable whites.

The Northern Rhône is syrah country. The best wines from the best appellations in this continental climate tend toward substance, power, intensely concentrated fruit and strong tannins. The two leading appellations – Hermitage and Côte Rôtie – achieve this with a unique elegance and finesse that makes places them among the most prestigious wines anywhere. But this makes their prices almost uniformly out of rear for most wine drinkers.

Not far behind in quality but more accessible in price is Cornas, about ten miles south of Hermitage. A good example is the 2014 Domaine Vincent Paris “Granit 30” ($40). Bright red and black fruit, concentrated but fresh, balanced with floral, mineral and savory notes, robust but supple textured, delicious now but should be even better in 5 years.

Other appellations that vie for a place at the alternative table include St. Joseph. But Crozes-Hermitage has the advantage of coming from vineyards lying adjacent to Hermitage (even though on flat terroir to the east and south of Hermitage hill and having Hermitage in its name. From a négociant with a reputation at the top of the wine world, the 2013 E. Guigal ($30) is typical of the area. Fruit forward and charming with moderate intensity, its red fruit and plum mingle with herbs and spice on a light texture begging for early consumption.

The southern Rhône, with its proximity to the Mediterranean also has several appellations of interest, the most famous being Châteauneuf du Pape. Others include Vacqueyras, Rasteau and Cairanne. In contrast to the northern Rhône, grenache is the most prominent grape and most of the wines are blends (primarily grenache, syrah, mourvedre and cinsault, cunoise and carignan)

Arguably the best after Châteauneuf is Gigondas about fifteen miles northeast. Its vineyards often produce heady wines of power and strength that equal or even surpass Châteauneuf. One such wine is the 2012 Xavier ($35). Its cuvée of 85% grenache, 10% mourvedre and 5% syrah yields a medium-bodied wine of grace, with delightful red fruits, tealeaves, spicy herbs, and evergreen. Another nice option is the 2011 Domaine Gour de Chaule “Cuvée Tradition” ($32). From a 117-year-old estate, the 80% grenache, 10% syrah, and 10% mourvèdre blend is medium-bodied, nicely rustic but fresh and packed with dark fruits accented with leather, tobacco and spice.

There are also great everyday values to be found in this region. Some nice wines are available from Costières De Nîmes and Côtes du Ventoux but the Côtes du Rhône (the most common appellation in the region) typically are the best. Solid and flavorful, they represent some of the best red wine values in the world.

E. Guigal produces one of the consistently best Côtes du Rhône. The 2013 ($19) with 50% syrah, 45% grenache and 5% mourvedre is a much more intense wine than what one would expect with tons of ripe dark fruit a lush texture, savory and earthy and notes. And the 2014 Côtes du Rhône Blanc ($19) is just as good, showing the Rhone can do well with white wines, too. Almost 2/3 viognier, its pure citrus and tangerine fruit is crisp yet graceful finishing with a touch of almond.

Another reliable producer is Les Dauphins whose 2015 Reserve ($13), with 70% grenache, 25% syrah and 5% mourvedre, offers up front fruit, with herbal and earthy notes and an easygoing texture. The winery also has a fine Côtes du Rhône-Villages. These are wines from a legally designated village that typically more character. The 2014 “Puyméras” ($20) is a single vineyard wine with 70% grenache, 20% syrah and 10% carignan is more aromatic with deeper red berry fruit and hints of chocolate and spice.

Finally, I finish with a little bit of a ringer. Many other wines from the south of France, such as the large Languedoc-Roussillon appellation, also are worth seeking out. The Coteaux du Languedoc, which neighbors the western border of the southern Rhone Valley, is such a place.

And Chateau Paul Mas, with a 125-year viticultural heritage in the area, is such a producer. The 2013 “Clos des Mûres” ($20) is a single vineyard wine of 85% syrah, 10% grenache noir and 5% mourvedre. It’s quite full offering ripe berries and cassis with toasty oak and herbal notes. Another single vineyard wine, the 2013 “Belluguette” ($20) is another fine white with 40% vermentino, 30% roussanne, 20% grenache blanc and 10% viognier. This cuvée yields an impressively creamy and richly textured wine. It delivers succulent apricot peach apple and tropical fruits, yet drinks fresh and lively.

Although cabernet sauvignon, merlot and pinot noir remain the most popular red varietal California wines, if you’re like me you crave something different now and then (maybe more often). No matter how much I might like certain grape varieties, I still delight in trying different ones.

One of my favorite “alternative reds” is petite sirah, a variety that has been gaining in well-deserved appreciation in recent years. Despite this, I wonder how many wine drinkers have tried this Rhone Valley origin grape on its own. I bet more often they have drunk it hidden in a blend.

It often has been commented that there is nothing petite about Petite Sirah wines. While they often display a flavor profile similar to their parent syrah – dark berries, tobacco, leather, earth, mineral and pepper, with an ability to age well, they typically are wines of deep color, dense structure, rustic body and agibility.

The following wines are excellent introductions to Petite Sirah and excellent values considering fine quality.

2013 Clayhouse Red Cedar Vineyard Old Vines ($23). From Paso Robles, its meaty, roasted notes overlay ripe red fruits in a dense, husky texture.

2014 Peachy Canyon ($32). Another Paso Robles wine, it is well integrated with black fruits and black pepper; oaky and full, rustic tannin leads to a creamy finish,

2013 Edmeades Mendocino County ($35). Full and tight, with dark berries, spice and smoke, this drinks with an underlying softness while ushering strong tannins.

Another French grape, malbec, has gained a lot of popularity in the U.S. recently. But, of course, that attraction has been directed at Malbec wines from Argentina, not California, where it is used largely as a minor blending grape in Bordeaux-style wines. That recent appeal has been based largely on those wines’ up front, round fruit and lush textures. They are user friendly and eminently drinkable – and affordable. Try these California Malbecs and you might be surprised how the grape can deliver equal quality here, too.

2013 Clayhouse Red Cedar Vineyard Malbec ($14). Rather jammy with sweet berries, it’s fresh and a bit sweet with a tart finish.

2014 Jamieson Ranch Whiplash ($16). Another fruit forward malbec, it suggests fresh oak and drinks grapey with a chalky palate.

2013 Rodney Strong Sonoma County Reserve ($40). This inaugural release shows strong earth, black fruit and oak toast; it’s full, structured and deeply fruited.

Often, when I’m looking for a change of pace, I turn to Italy and Spain for inspiration. Tempranillo is arguably Spain’s most important red grape. It is responsible for the famous Rioja and Ribera de Duero, along with countless regional wines. Apart from regional variations, typically it produces an aromatic wine with solid acidity, leathery red fruits and earthy qualities.

2014 Castoro Cellars Whale Rock Vineyard Reserve ($24). From an organic vineyard in Paso Robles, I enjoyed its forest notes, red fruits, and its full and dusty texture.

2012 Artesa Limited Release ($45). From Napa Valley, the heart of cabernet country, this has deep black cherry, creamy oak and  a fresh resiny, but elegant texture.

As with Tempranillo in Spain, Sangiovese is arguably Italy’s most important red grape. Although it also presents red fruit qualities, its wines tend to be brisker and higher toned, with savory notes

2013 Frank Family Reserve Winston Hill Vineyard ($65).  This serious wine shows well integrated oak with bright, leathery cherry, baking spices, and fresh tannin.

2013 Palumbo Bella Vigna Vineyard ($45). From Temecula in the south coast, this is smoky and woody with pure, high toned red fruit, and chocolate accents.

NOTE: FEATURED IMAGE COURTESY OF FRANK FAMILY VINEYARDS

When I first became interested in wine I actually was able to afford upper class Bordeaux on occasion. Even on a college student’s budget. Of course, it helped that I worked at a liquor store and received a (small) discount. Still, there is no chance of this happening today.

The cru classés (classified growths) of the Haut-Medoc on the “Left Bank” of the Gironde estuary get most of the attention from wine media and professionals. But, as these wines have reached icon status, their prices have followed into the hundreds and even thousands of dollars – per bottle. Still, it is possible to find good, affordable Bordeaux.

On the “Right Bank,” wine of the Côtes de Bordeaux appellation – areas surrounding the villages of Blaye, Castillon, Cadillac and Francs – can deliver extreme value. The wines tend to be dominated by merlot and often use less oak than their Médoc neighbors and have less alcohol than comparable California wine. They can be enjoyed younger than most Medoc. The wines below offer a good introduction.

Castillon: An area of historical significance as the site where The Hundred Years’ War ended. One of the best estate’s is Château Pitray whose 2012 ($15) is fresh with pure blueberry and woodsy, loamy notes, soft tannin but good structure.

Cadillac: Better known for its sweet white wines. The 2012 Château Chatard ($15) shows this region can play in the red wine league, too. It is soft and easygoing with good red fruit, dusty oak, and full but a lean, woody frame.

Francs: An area known for prehistoric Lascaux cave paintings. The 2012 Château Lauriol  ($16) provides nice blueberry, then creamy, integrated oak; full, dark and dense, it is quite tannic.

Blaye: An historic fortified town also an important river port in Roman times. The 2014 Château Les Vieux Moulin “Pirouette” ($17) offers a soft style with earthy black fruits, fresh tannin, finishing a little bitter.

Bordeaux values also exist on the Left Bank, especially the Cru Bourgeois of the Haut-Médoc appellation. Though of less prestige than the cru classes, they offer significantly lower prices but not significantly lower quality. Two good ones: 2012 Château Bibian ($22) near the village of Listrac has focused, fresh red fruit, caramelized, woody notes, good concentration and firm tannin. 2012 Château Landat ($20) near the village of Cissac has intense black cherry fruit, decidedly full and firm.

Finally, another way to find value at a higher price point is to seek out the “second wine” of a classified growth.

As an example, the flagship wine of the St. Emilion estate Château Lassègue is its Grand Cru  (2010,  $90). It is a dense, muscular wine, with copious dark fruits oaky lushness, and structure to last. But the wine is priced out of reach of most of us. The estate’s second wine, Les Cadrans de Lassègue (2012, $35), is more accessible yet still quite good. Enticing plum and cassis flavors, notable forest and oak notes preview a solid, rather full wine with firm tannins.

Most of us indulge at least some during the holidays – waistlines tend to expand and wallet sizes shrink – then in the subsequent months we work to regain balance. With wine, after a few splurges, we’re likely to return to less expensive, everyday values.

The best places to look for values are in less prestigious countries and less regarded regions in celebrated countries. But there is no reason to sacrifice quality and taste for lower price. You won’t have to with any of the wines below (all imports and none over $17).

Portugal is a good place to start. Esporão, whose origins date to the thirteenth century, has a great value lineup led by Monte Velho Red Blend (2014, $10), Duas Castas White Blend (2014, $13) and Assobio Red Blend (2013, $13). The equally historical Symington Family produces many of my favorites, including Dow’s “Vale do Bomfim” (2013, $16) and Prats & Symington “Prazo de Roriz” (2012, $16). The family-owned Quinta da Aveleda shines with the Titular Red Blend (2013, $14) and the “Follies” Touriga Nacional ($13, 2012).

Argentina is the “go to” source for value Malbec. Two good ones: 2015 Amalaya ($16) and 2015 Yauquen ($13). And don’t forget refreshing Torrontés: Amalaya Blanco (2015, $12), Colomé (2015, $15), and Rutini “Trumpeter” (2015, $11). Argento, another reliable winery also does well with Pinot Grigio (2015, $13) and Cabernet Sauvignon 2014, $14).

Chile has long presented fine, affordable alternatives for Cabernet Sauvignon and Sauvignon Blanc. I recently enjoyed Veramonte 2014 Red Blend, 2014 Cabernet Sauvignon, and 2015 Sauvignon Blanc (all $12).

Italy’s best values often come from its southern regions and one of my favorite producers is Falesco from Lazio, which also makes Vitiano from Umbria and a new line called Tellus also from Umbria. Look for the 2015 Chardonnay, 2013 Cabernet Sauvignon and 2013 Merlot (all $16).

In France, it also is advisable to look to its southern climes for value. Côtes du Rhône offers a taste of Châteauneuf-du-Pape without the price tag. There are many options but I suggest Paul Autard Rouge (2015, $15) and the Les Dauphins Réserve Blanc (2015, $11). From nearby Costières de Nîmes, Château Saint-Cyrgues Rouge (2015, $12) is made with organically grown grapes. Another neglected area with fine values is the Languedoc to the west of the Rhône. Organically grown grapes also are used in Château Coulon (2014, $16) from Corbières.

I did find one exception to the “southern rule” in the Loire. M de Mulonnière from Château de la Mulonnière offers a nice introduction to Loire Valley wines with its Chenin Blanc (2015, $15) Rosé d’Anjou (2015, $15)

Finally, I love German Riesling and my only complaint is that recently it has gotten difficult to find good wines at reasonable prices. That is not a problem with Schmitt Söhne wines (new releases all 2015 vintage). Begin with the medium sweet “Relax” ($10) and the dry Rheinhessen QbA ($9). Then progress to the Thomas Schmitt Private Collection – QbA ($14), Kabinett ($15) and Spatlese ($16) – which uses grapes from the famed Mosel Valley.

Although sparkling wine is appropriate for any occasion, certainly the holidays are the prime time. Lucky for us effervescent wine is so popular there are versions made in virtually every wine region. Consider drinking them throughout your meals in addition to celebratory toasts.

Champagne sets the standard and nonvintage Brut is the most widely enjoyed style, partly because it is the most affordable and represents the signature style of a Champagne house. A really good choice I just discovered is Champagne Palmer. New to the U.S., it was founded as a cooperative in 1947. Its wines are distinguished by use of a high proportion of reserve wine (older wines added to the cuvée to achieve a deeper, richer style).

Palmer’s Brut Réserve ($52) – 50% chardonnay, 40% pinot noir and 10% pinot meunier – is aged sur lie for over four years and includes 30% reserve wine, from a 25 year old solera (a blending method typically used for sherry). It is full and rich with pear, apple and citrus, with notes of hazelnut and a slight toastiness. The Rosé Réserve ($65) – 49% pinot noir, 42% chardonnay and 9% pinot meunier – blends red wine from a 30 year old solera. It’s brisk and structured with luscious nuances of strawberries and currants, vanilla and spice.

Also from France, Crémant d’Alsace is an affordable alternative. Made using the Champagne method, the 100% pinot noir Lucien Albrecht Brut Rosé ($22) offers a crisp, fruit emphasized taste of strawberry with finesse and a nice measure of complexity.

From Italy, there also is outstanding “metodo classico” bubbly made in the Trentino region near Lake Garda. One of the finest choices is Ferrari whose Rosé Trento ($37) uses pinot nero and chardonnay to craft elegance and structure with fresh, fruity strawberries, red currants, and elements of almond.

Prosecco from the Veneto hills, with its fresh, frothy flavors has achieved popularity in the U.S. in recent years. Made using the native glera grape, it is produced using the Charmat Method (bubbles from second fermentation in pressurized tanks). Affordable and eminently drinkable, it is a versatile for many occasions.

Adami, a family owned winery in the Valdobbiadene area since 1920, produces benchmark Prosecco bursting with peach and citrus. “Garbel” Brut ($15) is fuller; “Bosco di Gica” Brut ($18) is most lively; “Dei Casel” Extra Dry ($18) is succulent and minerally; 2015 “Col Credas” Brut ($22), is focused and intense.

Other fine producers include Bisol – Jeio Brut ($15) fresh apple, apricot and citrus, Mionetto Brut Treviso ($15) – floral and intense, and Valdo Brut “Oro Puro” ($21) fresh, lively and full.

Also look for the Jeio Cuvée Rosé ($14) – merlot and pinot nero – balances freshness and bright red berries with a hint of mineral, and Mionetto Prestige Gran Rosé ($28 magnum), fresh and fruity with currant and pomegranate.

I can’t wrap this report without at least one California bubbly. Frank Family Vineyards in Napa Valley is highly regarded for Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay and Zinfandel but also produces small amounts of fine sparkling wine. The 2012 Brut Rosé ($55) is 100% pinot noir from the estate Lewis Vineyard in Carneros.

In the 1990’s, the popularity of California Merlot wines grew exponentially among American consumers. According to The Wine Institute, just over 15,000 tons were crushed in 1990, while over 292,000 were crushed in 2004! American consumers were drawn to the easy drinking approachable style producers were peddling.

Then, “Sideways” (the movie) happened. With this Pinot Noir-centric movie’s seeming disparaging of Merlot, suddenly the wines became suspect, even though some of the great wines of the world are made predominately of merlot. But reports of Merlot’s death were exaggerated. While production actually is down a bit, Merlot remains popular.

Luckily, there are plenty of quality minded producers that showcase Merlot’s best attributes. One of those is Chris Carpenter, longtime winemaker at the highly regarded, Kendall-Jackson owned wineries Cardinale and Lokoya.

“If farmed right, and treated similar to cabernet sauvignon, merlot can be great, just as it is in other countries [like France and Italy].” Carpenter proves this by making two amazing wines in my tasting: the 2013 Mt. Brave ($75) and 2013 La Jota ($85).

These are serious, complex, full-bodied wines that show how great Merlot can be. Mt. Brave is from vineyards on Mt. Veeder on the western side of the valley. LaJota is from Howell Mountain on the eastern side. Importantly, both mountain vineyards are located above the fog line, meaning moderate temperatures and more sunshine. The Mt. Brave is deep black cherry fruit, chocolate, cocoa, spice, a plump, fleshy. The La Jota dense, loads of mocha, lead-pencil, black cherry and plum spices, full-bodied, opulent, mouth-coating

Of course, there have always been quality minded Merlot producers that persisted even during that period when many wineries treated Merlot like the new White Zinfandel, as Carpenter described it.

Matanzas Creek has been a standard bearer for the grape since its first vintage in 1977. The exquisite 2012 Jackson Park Vineyard ($60), from estate vineyards near the winery in Bennett Valley, is the premier offering from their Merlot portfolio. It shows abundant red fruit, complex mineral, cedar and savory qualities, and power.

Duckhorn also has been a Merlot pioneer, having released its first Merlot in 1978 and since establishing a reputation as one of California’s best Merlot producers. They now make several single vineyard wines but the Napa Valley is a fine introduction to the collection. The 2013 ($54) is solid, focused, softer, lush, but some crispness, dark cherry and blueberry, spice, sleek, cherry, licorice

The next tier of wines I found worth recommending, include several less expensive but still fine samples from the Napa Valley. The 2012 Swanson Napa Valley ($38), from a winery that dedicated itself to Merlot from its first vintage in 1987, shows skillful blending of red and black fruits, cedar and herbal notes, and power with a lush texture. Others worth seeking out:

• 2013 Freemark Abbey ($34) enticing with abundant, lush fruit
• 2012 Grgich Hills ($43) well structured with concentrated, ripe fruit
• 2013 Peju ($38) sweet fruit with defined tannins

If you are looking for even more affordable Merlots, you won’t sacrifice much quality with these reliable producers. Markham, for instance, has been a leader in producing user-friendly, fruit-forward Merlots. The 2014 Markham Napa Valley ($25) is silky and inviting with soft mouthfeel and toasty, mocha, herbal back notes. Other satisfying choices:

• 2012 Clos du Val Napa Valley ($28) full-bodied, velvety
• 2012 Matanzas Creek Sonoma County ($28) crisp, savory
• 2013 Kendall-Jackson Grand Reserve ($26) fruitful, dense
• 2014 Decoy Sonoma Valley ($25) creamy, sleek
• 2014 Kunde Sonoma Valley ($22) fresh, lively

Finally, a handful of good, easy on your pocketbook wines ideal for everyday and holiday parties. At $15, the 2014 Liberty School Central Coast, 2014 J. Lohr “Los Osos” ($15), and 2013 Murphy Goode California are easy drinking, yet flavorful.

Culinary cinema is somewhat of a niche genre, especially documentaries. Everybody has to eat and drink to survive; many of us love to eat and drink regardless. But these are usually taken for granted in films. Still, there has been a growing appreciation in recent years of chefs, sommeliers, and the importance of food quality and how it is produced. And that has been reflected in a growing number food and wine related documentaries.

Credit goes to two Colorado film festivals that have recognized the importance of food in our culture and reflected that in their lineups. The Flatirons Food Film Fest, as its name suggests, is focused solely on food and drink.

The feature film of the festival (this was its fourth year) was the documentary City of Gold about Los Angeles Times restaurant critic and Pulitzer Prize–winning food writer Jonathan Gold. Being a wine writer, though, I was there to screen SOMM: Into the Bottle. The film is a follow-up to SOMM, the 2012 documentary that followed four sommeliers attempting to pass the prestigious Master Sommelier exam.

As Bobby Stuckey, co-owner of Frasca Food and Wine in Boulder and himself a Master Sommelier put it me, “Both films are great as they demystify this craft [serving wine] especially for people who may have little idea what sommeliers do.” Somm: Into The Bottle travels around the world to answer the question, as the promo material puts it: “What is wine and why does it matter?” Or, as Stuckey told me, “It is a natural progression from SOMM showing how wine is served to giving the back story.”

The film features several well-known winemakers and sommeliers to narrate ten segments exploring a different aspect of wine. Each segment uses the opening of a rare, celebrated bottle as device to delve into the history and appeal of each wine and its origins – as if to illustrate Professor Steven Shapin’s insight that every wine has a story to tell and sommeliers are storytellers.

Especially for those of us who pay close attention to the wine world, it was fascinating to get an inside look through the words of respected winemakers and master sommeliers. With historic wineries and famous vineyards as backdrops, the film moves through topics such as winemaking, vintage differences, how wine ages, differences between what are called “New World” and “Old World” wines, what affects the cost of wine and the influence of wine critics and point scores.

Even though one could nit pick certain aspects of the film, ultimately the excellent cinematography and the stories that are as engaging as they are educational making the film a very worthwhile experience.

With 25 years as a wine professional in the restaurant industry, Mr. Stuckey emphasized to me the importance of service and hospitality (in addition to great food and wine). In a way, this was also a message of Jeremiah Tower: The Last Magnificent, presented at the 39^th Denver Film Festival organized by The Denver Film Society

This year, the festival initiated a “Culinary Cinema” series, which I hope will be a long-running program and expanded. Jeremiah Tower: The Last Magnificent probes the life of the celebrated and often mysterious chef, one of America’s first celebrity chefs.

The film suggests Tower’s earlier years raised by wealthy but neglectful parents caused him to turn to cooking and eating for emotional comfort. It traces his nevertheless unlikely culinary career after he graduated from Harvard. Instead of pursuing a career in architecture, he got hired in 1972 at Alice Waters’ then-unknown Chez Panisse in Berkeley. Within a year he was in charge of the kitchen and soon became a co-owner. Tower left Chez Panisse in 1978 but had established himself as a culinary pacemaker.

In 1984, he displayed his visionary nature opening Stars restaurant in a neighborhood that although near San Francisco’s Civic Center was not considered a desirable destination. Under Tower’s tutelage Stars became a highly sought after destination as it popularized “California Cuisine” or what is often called “New American” cooking.

The film makes the case that much of Stars’ popularity was owing to Tower’s personality and abilities as a host. His reputation grew with the success of the restaurant. And the success of the restaurant grew with his reputation.

But it wasn’t to last. By the late 1990’s, he had built (along with investors) a booming restaurant empire. But that empire crumbled and Tower effectively disappeared from the culinary world. He eventually turned up in Mexico but had largely been forgotten, even though he had hosted a PBS series and written well-received cookbooks.

Ultimately, Jeremiah Tower: The Last Magnificent seems to be saying – through interviews from well-known chef personalities including Martha Stewart, Mario Batali, Jonathan Waxman and Anthony Bourdain and charting Tower’s legacy – that the long-term success of Stars is largely beside the point. Tower’s innovations – emphasis on fresh, local food, an open kitchen, and creating a welcoming atmosphere and with an infectious energy – are what have had lasting influence in the culinary world.