Category: Beer and Spirits

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SUMMER’S WINDING DOWN BUT STILL SOME SEASONAL RELEASES TO TRY

There is still a month of summer left and I have some fascinating new releases for your consideration. This is really an impressive and creative line up. So, get out there and try them before they’re all gone.

 

Ska “Esteval” Cream Stout

5.8% ABV |

 

Estival is part of Ska’s Seasonal Stout Series, fitting for a summer release with its modest alcohol and medium body. Brewed with orange blossom honey, milk sugar, and aged on orange peels, it opens with notes of cream and coffee as a bit of that orange pokes through. On the palate, the orange flavor is more pronounced, while the creaminess persists. Full-flavored, yet lighter in body, it will make a great alternative when you feel like something more substantial than a lager or pale ale but still not too heavy.

 

As with all four of the stouts in the Seasonal Stout Series, Estival is released in cans. Based in Durango, Colorado, Ska Brewing was founded in 1995 and produces over a dozen beers, many of which are available in cans. Can or bottle or tap, make a point of checking out this one.

 

Breckenridge “Buddha’s Hand”

6% ABV | 15 IBU

 

This is the first release in Breckenridge’s “Mountain Series” designed for beers using special ingredients. The Mountain Series is a collection of pilot, small batch, and seasonal brews intended to showcase the creativity and experimentation in the brewery’s original Breckenridge brewpub and usually only available at the pub. As Breckenridge now maintains its production facility in Denver and has become the nation’s 40th largest craft brewery, the Mountain Series celebrates the brewery’s origin in 1990 as a small, ski town brewpub.

 

This limited edition, special release is a Belgian-style Witbier (wheat beer) brewed with the ancient citron fruit called “Buddha’s Hand,” a tropical fruit segmented into finger-like sections, said to resemble the hand of Buddha. This crisp and refreshing ale leads with creamy malt and mixed citrus fruits accented with pine notes. Similar flavors are supplemented with the taste of cardamom while it finishes crisp and refreshing.

Buddha’s Hand is included in the new Rocky Mountain Sampler 12-pack, which also features three of the brewery’s favorites, like Vanilla Porter, Avalanche, and Lucky U IPA. Future Mountain Series inclusions also will offer a seasonal touch to the package.

 

Deschutes

 

Deschutes offers us three special releases, each of which certainly can be enjoyed now but might be even better if you let them age a few months. Founded in 1988 as a brewpub in Bend, Oregon, Deschutes Brewery is known for brewing a diverse line-up of beers. And each of these would make good drinking any time of year.

 

Foray Belgian-Style IPA

6.4% ABV | 60 IBU

Malt: Pilsner, Carapils

Hops: Nugget, Amarillo, Mosiac, CTZ, Galaxy

Other: Belgian Yeast Strain

 

Foray is a brand-new addition to Deschutes’ Bond Street Series lineup (available in 22-ounce bottles and draft). It made its way into those bottles the same way all the Bond Street Series beers do – by being a popular “experiment” at Deschutes’ pubs. I would describe it as a hybrid incorporating elements of traditional Belgian ale delivering fruity notes and an American India Pale Ale with its typically pronounced citrusy hop character. A fairly new style, more and more breweries are releasing Belgian-style IPAs. They can only aspire to this level of quality.

 

Black Butte XXVI

10.8% ABV |

Malt: Pale, Wheat, Midnight Wheat, Chocolate, Crystal

Hops: Millennium, Cascade, U.S. Tettnang

Other: Theo Chocolate Cocoa Nibs, Pomegranate Molasses, Cranberries

 

Every year, Deschutes celebrates its anniversary with this double version of the flagship Black Butte Porter (part of the Reserve Series available in 22-ounce wax-dipped bottles and draft). But they don’t just replicate the same formula. They experiment with new ingredients. Past Black Butte’s have included chilies, chocolate nibs, dates, and figs, among other additions. This year, Deschutes says they decided to add cranberries, pomegranate molasses and Theo’s cocoa nibs. And half of the batch was aged in bourbon barrels.

 

This is a “Wow!” beer in all ways. The nose is loaded with coffee, chocolate, honey, coriander, orange, malt, and an herbal note reminiscent of basil. It also reveals hints of vanilla and of raisiny red fruit I can only assume come from those cranberries and pomegranates. These qualities carried over into my mouth, where they were joined by a balancing bitterness, some spice and a lingering aftertaste.

 

Doppel Dinkel Bock (Conflux Series No. 3)

10.5% ABV | 17 IBU

Malt: Spelt Malt, Carared Malt, Pilsner, Wheat Malt, Chocolate Wheat

Hops: Bravo, US Tettnang, Citra

Other: Traditional German Ale Yeast

 

One thing that is so cool about the craft beer industry is that even with the rapid growth of the past few years, both in terms of sales volume and new breweries, brewers don’t just compete for market share. There is an amazing amount of collaboration and collegiality.

 

I have one notable example here: this collaboration beer between Deschutes and Germany’s Distelhauser. After a friendship that spans two decades, they decided to collaborate on this unique beer. The brew deftly balances the dinkel malt (spelt, instead of the typical wheat, or weiss, malt) profile from Germany with the hop qualities of the Pacific Northwest. Deschutes describes this as an “imperial spelt beer.” The result features aromas of coffee, sweet malt, cherry vanilla, and a slight spiciness. It drinks full bodied but smooth.

 

Samuel Adams Latitude 48 IPA and Latitutde 48 IPA Single Hop Varieties

6.0% ABV | 60 IBU

Malt: Samuel Adams two-row pale malt blend, Caramel 60, and Gambrinus Honey

Hops: Hallertau Mittelfrueh, East Kent Golding, Zeus, Simcoe, Ahtanum, Mosaic

Other: Top-fermenting Ale yeast strain

 

Finally, a fascinating exercise in “hopology.” Latitude 48 IPA is brewed with a blend of five different hop varieties from notable growing regions in Germany, the UK, and the US, all (interestingly) close to the 48th Latitude. There is seldom an opportunity for those of us outside the brewing process to experience separately the character of the individual hop varieties in a beer.

 

Needless to say, I was quite surprised to find the box left on my doorstep contained not only samples of Latitute 48 IPA but also samples of single-hop IPAs for each of the five varieties. What the brewery calls “Samuel Adams Latitude 48 IPA Deconstructed” is available in 12-packs, so you can you can try the hop study yourself. It’s a brilliant idea and my tasting notes follow, first for the single hop bottles, then for the whole package:

 

Mosaic (Yakima Valley, WA) – pronounced grapefruit and some tropical notes, both on the nose and the palate, with the palate showing a little malt but mostly citrus and some tropical notes

 

East Kent Goldings (East Kent, UK) – spicy grapefruit dominates the very fresh aromas but a piney note emerges; tangy citrus joins a similar profile in the mouth, then it turns leafy and bitter just before pomegranate emerges; all this happens with a malty underpinning and finishes bitter and resinous, and maybe even tobacco (!)

 

Hallertau Mittelfreuh (Bavaria, Germany) – presents with spicy lemon and pine, then the palate follows with creamy, malty notes wrapped in more spice and some citrus

 

Simcoe (Yakima Valley, WA) – opens malty with hints of grapefruit and a sense of firmness, all of which continues in the mouth, which is dominated by grapefruit

 

Zeus (Yakima Valley, WA) – pleasant lime and light malt characterize the otherwise understated bouquet; drinks with strong citrus – lime and grapefruit – some spice, and a nicely bitter aftertaste

 

Latitude 48 IPA (reconstructed) – The nose presents mostly sweet malt character with light touches of citrus and pine. Drinking it reveals more prominent grapefruit and spice, with touches of tobacco. It is full and solid finishing crisp with a nicely bitter touch. This is a milder IPA style and is a welcome alternative to the many “monster” IPAs out there.

 

Certainly, it mirrors the citrus, spice, tobacco, and bitterness found variously in the single hop varieties. But none of the qualities dominate the overall brew. And maybe that’s the point of the study – suggestions of the character of each hop variety can be discerned in the whole but success in creating a balanced brew means that none overwhelms the others. In the end, the whole is greater or at least different than the sum of its parts.

 

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SUMMER SEASONALS PROVIDE REFRESHMENT FOR THE HEAT OF SUMMER

Featured Image: “Summer wildflowers in the Rocky Mountains” courtesy of  Adirondack Explorer.

 

Every year as summer draws near, America’s craft brewers roll out their summer seasonals. The MO is to produce beers with light body, low alcohol and refreshing flavors. Often such beers emphasize lightness too much for my taste – too often they are also light on flavor. Usually, when I’m looking for something more delicate, I’ll pass on the “summer beer” and go for maybe a Pale Ale or an IPA. But the beers below are different. Yes, they are lighter and more refreshing but they also give ample flavor – and the term “summer seasonal” a more respectable name.

 

Deschutes Twilight Summer Ale. This summer seasonal from Deschutes is ideal for the warm weather. Inthe style of a Pale Ale it is fairly strong with hoppy bitterness (provided by whole cone Amarillo, Northern Brewer, Cascade, and Tettnang hops) and a refreshing citrus, slightly spicy aroma. This is nicely complimented by Cara-Pils and Carastan malts, which add roundness, softening the hoppy edges. The aroma offers fresh wheaty, malty notes, which are reprised in a firm palate and a crisp, slightly hoppy finish. Overall, it shows nicely balanced malt and hop qualities, with 35 IBUs. Not too heavy, not too light, its 5% ABV is just right for warm weather sipping.

 

Samuel Adams Porch Rocker. This is a good example of a seasonal brew specifically concocted in this case for the summer heat and outdoor activities. Lemon is added to the Samuel Adams two-row pale malt blend and Hallertau Mittelfrueh Noble hops and it sure shows through. As the company notes, this is a take on a Bavarian Radler, which typically combines lager and lemonade. It’s lightness is emphasized by its low 4.5% ABV and 8 IBUs.

 

Samuel Adams Summer Ale. This one is a different take on the summer seasonal. It is an American wheat ale refreshed with Hallertau Mittelfrueh and Saaz Noble hops that, along with the addition of lemon peel, presents a bright citrus note. But this time the citrus is balanced with malty notes from Samuel Adams two-row pale malt blend and malted wheat and a suggestion of pepper from the addition of Grains of Paradise. It all makes for a pleasant sipper for a pleasant summer day. 5.3% ABV and IBUs 7 

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IT’S A COGNAC! IT’S A SHERRY! IT’S A PORT! NO, IT’S A BEER!

A review of the latest (2013) Samuel Adams Utopias

The new 2013 release of Samuel Adams Utopias is the latest in a nearly thirty year journey of founder Jim Koch to redefine what beer can be. As with so much in the craft beer industry, Samuel Adams has been a pioneer of what has come
to be known as “Extreme Beer.”

Beginning with Triple Bock in 1994, Samuel Adams has been in the forefront of the movement to push the envelope of complexity and alcohol. Triple Bock came in at 17.5% alcohol by volume (ABV). In 2000, Samuel Adams released Millennium Ale at 21% ABV. Then came Utopias in 2002 at 25% ABV. Since then, a new edition of Utopias has been released roughly every two years. The 2013 edition clocks in at 28% ABV. That’s liqueur territory!

 

Certainly the craft beer world has continued to challenge convention about styles and variations on styles of beer. That includes ingredients, brewing methods and alcohol levels. But Sam Adams’ Utopias really challenges all conceptions of what beer can be.

 

It’s still brewed with hops and malts using traditional methods. Utopias begins with two-row Caramel and Munich malts and Hallertau Mittelfrueh, Spalt Spalter, and Tettnang Tettnanger hops. Several yeast strains (including one used for Champagne) are used in fermentation. And maple syrup is added. But that is where normalcy ends.

 

Added to the mix for the first time is the brewery’s wild ale, “Kosmic Mother Funk” (KMF), a Belgian-style wild ale barrel-aged nine months-to-two years in large Hungarian oak casks. A lot of craft beers these days are aged in wood barrels but Utopias takes this, yes, to extremes. It undergoes a blending process similar to wine, in this case combining batches aged in a variety barrels, including Port casks and Rum barrels from Nicaragua. The final blend includes some batches that have been aged up to twenty years in a variety of barrels. And this year a portion was aged in single use bourbon casks from Buffalo Trace Distillery.

 

So, how does all this taste? First, newcomers to the brew will be surprised to find it is not carbonated. Also unusual for beer, Samuel Adams recommends Utopias be sipped and savored at room temperature (basically the same as Cognac: about a two-ounce pour in a snifter).

 

It opens with aromas of caramel and maple followed by an explicitly briny sensation, like sea breeze. There are alcoholic notes reminiscent of Cognac accented with toffee. You might also notice vanilla and tobacco. It drinks smooth and viscous with layers of complexity. There also are tangy and berry fruit elements keeping the taste lively amidst the sweetness and a distinct alcoholic burn.

 

Naturally, Utopias is packaged in unique 24-ounce ceramic bottles fashioned to look like a traditional copper brew kettle. It is sealed with a basic crown cap but also a resealable screw cap. That combined with the high alcohol and lack of carbonation allow Utopias to be enjoyed over long period.

 

Here’s the one catch, though: that 24-ounce bottle retails at $200. This will prove an obstacle most will not be able to overcome. Heck, most of us would be unwilling to spend that much even on a great wine or Scotch. But, if you have the money or can get together with some friends on a bottle or even find it somewhere by the glass, it will be an experience I doubt you’ll regret.

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SPRING RELEASES TO WELCOME WARMER WEATHER

[Cover photo courtesy Oregon State University Extension Service]

 

Yes, it is finally getting warmer and breweries are happily releasing their spring seasonals. And we all are the better for it. Here a few I tasted recently you will enjoy alone or as an accompaniment for the lighter foods of the season.

 

Deschutes

Fresh Squeezed IPA. I really liked the debut release of this beer last summer and really enjoyed this year’s model as well.  So I’m glad it now will be available year-round in 6-packs. Like all of the beers in the Bond Street Series, this hop-centric brew was formerly exclusive to the brewery’s Bend and Portland Oregon brew pubs. Its juicy, spicy citrus aroma and flavor – thanks to loads of Citra, Mosaic and Nugget hops – presage a balancing malt profile from Pale, Crystal, and Munich malts. Its 6.4% ABV and 60 IBU drink smooth and refreshing.

 

Samuel Adams

 

Double Bock. A seasonal since 1988 – but a style that dates to the 13th century – this one is lager brewed with a half pound of malt per bottle. Tettnang, Tettnanger, and Hallertau Mittelfrueh hops join the Samuel Adams two-row pale malt blend and Caramel 60 malts to produce, yes, sweet caramel and toffee, but also coffee and even cherry notes, finishing with subtle hop character. 9.5% ABV and 25 IBUs

 

Escape Route. A new, limited release beer, Kölsch style (sort of an ale/lager hybrid originating in Cologne, Germany) is a delightful unfiltered, easy drinking (or what is typically called “sessionable”) beer with just 5.0% ABV and 30 IBUs. It uses Aramis and Strisselspalt hops, with Samuel Adams two-row pale malt blend, acidulated malt, flaked barley, and carafoam malts.

 

Oskar Blues

 

Gubna Imperial IPA. Volume 4 of this seasonal release is post-fermentation dry hopped with Sorachi Ace, Chinook and Mosaic hops to a level that Oscar Blues only describes as 100+ IBUs! The hops are augmented with Rye malt (double the amount of previous versions), North American Pale malt and a bit of Munich malt. All this really shows in its intensity of strong grapefruit piercing all the way through followed by spice notes. Lemon citrus and even hints of red berries add interest on the palate, as does the lively bitter finish.

 

 

Upslope Brewing (Flatiron Park Tap Room)

 

Upslope Brewing Company brewed its first batch of Pale Ale for public consumption in the fall of 2008. Since then, this creative brewery has established itself firmly in its home base of Boulder and throughout Colorado winning numerous medals and palates to its well made beers. I stopped by their Flatiron Park Tap Room the other day to do a little tasting and heartily recommend the following beers.

Wild Belgian Pale Ale. A collaboration with Crooked Stave Artisan Beer Project in Denver, this is the first installment of their new Ferus Fluxus (or “Wild Flow”) series. For this barrel-aged project, this limited release Belgian style pale ale – brewed with Trappist ale yeast and coriander – was inoculated with strains of Brettanomyces and Lactobacillus in first-use red wine barrels where it conditioned for nine months. 7.5%ABV and 30 IBU

 

Oatmeal Stout. This sessionable stout won a Bronze Medal at last year’s GABF Pro-Am Competition. It is easy drinking with a silky smooth mouth feel. The oatmeal rounds out the bolder chocolate, roasted malt and coffee flavors in this brew. 5% ABV

 

Sticke Altbier. A traditional German ale that has its roots in lager brewing.  Malty without being sweet, earthy mushroom note and a slight tangy finish. This is a good example of the style. 7.0% ABV

 

Craft Lager. Upslope’s largest selling beer also is distinguished by the commitment to donate one

percent of revenues from its sales to Trout Unlimited for its Rivers Campaign to protect watersheds throughout Colorado. It soffers light malt and citrus flavors that surprisingly linger. 4.8% 15 IBU

 

Brown Ale. Another GABF winner (silver medal in 2012), this classic brown ale is loaded with coffee and roasted qualities in nose and mouth but drinks firm and finishes with a nice bitter note. 6.7% 45 IBU

 

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FLAVORFUL BREWS TO CARRY YOU THROUGH THE REST OF WINTER

From porters to IPA’s, to stouts to lagers, there is no shortage of fermented malts and hops (and many brewed with various herbs, spices and other special ingredients) to satisfy your beer hungers over the coming months. Below I review ten seasonals to consider for your enjoyment.

 

Boulder Beer Company

“Shake” Chocolate Porter (5.9% ABV, 39 IBU)

 

Colorado’s first craft brewery established in 1979 Boulder Beer continues to churn out fine quality brews. “Shake” uses five different grains, including chocolate wheat, with cocoa nibs to achieve an excellent chocolate porter. Its nose is rich in chocolate and creamy with a hint of sweetness. Coffee notes emerge with time. It drinks with a similar profile, is full-bodied and deep but is lively as it glides over the tongue. Lucky for us, “Shake” has been added to full time list.

 

 

Breckenridge Brewery

Imperial Express (2013) “Hoppy Imperial Red Ale” (10% ABV, 70 IBU)

 

This beer is a collaboration with Never Summer Industries created to celebrate opening day of the ski season. Breckenridge Brewery and Never Summer Industries engaged in a joint project. Never Summer created an inaugural “Artist Series” snowboard. John Vogl, a Denver artist with a small studio called The Bungaloo, created the artwork, which is a drawing of an elk seemingly rising up from the mountains. For its part of the collaboration, Breckenridge crafted this limited release named after the highest chairlift at Breckenridge Ski Resort, reaching an elevation of 12,840 feet. The hops show in the citrus and spice notes jumping out of the glass. This assertive character continues in the mouth and is completed with a peppery finish. The draft-only beer will be available throughout Colorado while supplies last.

 

Ska Brewing Co.

Hibernal Vinifera Stout (8% ABV, 53 IBU)

 

I was really intrigued by the idea of using wine (actually wine grape juice) in a brew. But, frankly, I was skeptical. Hibernal Vinifera Stout is the second beer in the Durango based brewery’s “Seasonal Stout” series. It is oak aged and brewed with malbec grape juice. All this contributes to a flavor profile that shows creamy malt, fresh green herb, and lemongrass aromas followed by a very intense palate, with a resiny quality and hints of tannin and pleasant bitterness. This beer/wine experiment definitely is successful. And the creative packaging for the Hibernal Vinifera Stout features Ska’s True Blonde character as the Sumerian goddess of grapes and the cold season, Ngeshtin-ana.

 

Deschutes Brewery

Red Chair NWPA Northwest Pale Ale (6.2% ABV, IBUs 60)

 

Over the last few years, Deschutes’ Red Chair (named for the oldest operating ski lift lift at Mt. Bachelor) has become a favorite of mine. Whenever I’m looking at a beer list and can’t decide what I want, if “Red Chair” is on the list, I always know I can count on it to satisfy. The beer basically is Dechutes’ attempt to produce a balanced beer drinking experience – malty but not too and hoppy but not too. Deschutes says they have taken the IPA style and rounded out the edges. And mostly they are correct.  In this year’s model, I pick up a malty entry followed by hoppy notes. In the mouth, the play reverses.  The hops open up and the malts follow. It all finishes clean with a citrusy finish.

 

Samuel Adams

 

I am constantly amazed at the variety and depth of Sam Adams production. And even more impressed with the consistently high quality. With so many choices, no one is going to like every release but there is no question they all are well made and most are just plain good. It’s no different with this group. You may not find every one to your liking but you I bet  they all will find their fans.

 

Winter Lager (5.6% ABV, 22 IBUs)

Heavy on the malt, light on the hops, this has a much darker color than I expected from a lager (but then the company’s press material describes it as a wheat bock). Brewed with orange peel, ginger, and cinnamon, the nose is malty with spicy herb notes. The palate follows a creamy head with tangerine, spicy herb, malty notes, and a slightly bitter finish.

 

Cherry Chocolate Bock (5.8% ABV, 11 IBUs)

With this special seasonal release, it’s the cocoa nibs and cherries that play a starring role. The beer opens with dramatic cherry followed by the expected chocolate notes all accompanied by hints of vanilla sweetness. It drinks to a similar flavor similar profile but shows more tart cherry and rounds out with rich chocolate.

 

Juniper IPA (5.8% ABV, 50 IBUs)

 

Another special release, the name pretty much says it all: aromas show nice spicy and forest notes (gotta be the juniper berries) and citrus. The flavor is similar with a refreshing finish.

 

“Merrymaker” Gingerbread Stout (9.0% ABV, 25 IBUs)

 

Cinnamon, clove, nutmeg and ginger generate intense aromas that compliment the roasted stout character, while it all is lifted with a citrusy close. For me, the mouth shows more of the roasted and coffee notes while the spices recede to the background and are welcome with a cherry-like finish.

 

Cold Snap (5.3% ABV, 7 IBUs)

Here’s where I ran in to a hurdle, two actually. I have never been much for Belgian or (Belgian-style) white ales but, regardless, I tend to think they are much better on a warm spring day. Cold Snap, though, created more interest as it is brewed not just with wheat but Grains of Paradise, anise, hibiscus, orange peel, coriander, and dried plums. I picked up notes of citrus, clove, and found it drank dry and crisp. Guess what? It actually would be great on a warm spring day!

 

Rebel IPA (6.5% ABV, 45 IBUs)

 

And now back to more hops. Rebel IPA celebrates founder Jim Koch’s and Samuel Adams’ revolutionary (beer) spirit. According to the brewery, Rebel is the first IPA brewed with all-American hops. But it is not an overpoweringly hoppy beer, unlike many these days. I sniffed a pleasant citrus opening followed with some spice and pine notes, then hints of malt nicely wrapping up. It drinks nicely fresh and dry with tangy grapefruit.

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NEW BREWS FOR THE HOLIDAY SEASON

Three breweries. Ten beers. Tons of fla,vor. Breweries everywhere are coming out with their seasonal and holiday brews to warm your cockles (look it up). Below is just a fraction of what’s available but each is guaranteed to please. Happy holidays!

 

Samuel Adams

 

 

Ruby Mild. The company says this limited release is inspired by the English mild ales popular in the 1800s. Its ruby color and prominent malty aroma comes from seven malts, including traditional English malts like Marris Otter and its light citrusy notes are attributable to East Kent Golding hops. There also are intriguing clove and brown butter elements in the nose. This pleasant easy drinking brew (5.6 ABV, 20 IBU) sports a light sour cherry flavor, with malty and chalky notes, finishing with a nice hoppy lift. An ideal accompaniment to holiday meals.

 

 

 

Fat Jack Double Pumpkin Ale. With more than 28 pounds of pumpkin per barrel, accented with more of those East Kent Golding hops and malts including rye Special B and smoked malt, this selection from the Small Batch catalogue actually does show classic pumpkin pie spices like cinnamon, nutmeg and allspice. In the mouth, roasted and smoked malts deliver hints of molasses and caramel and pretty high alcohol (8.5 ABV 25 IBU) but still with a smooth mouth feel. Obviously perfect for Thanksgiving.

 

 

Tetravis. A new addition to the Barrel Room Collection, Tetravis is modeled after a Belgian-style Quadrupel – blended, aged, and cask conditioned. While brewed with low bitterness Hallertau Mittelfrueh noble hops and Special B, Carafa 1, and Munich malts, it gets its unique character from blending in a special Belgian-style sour ale they call “Kosmic Mother Funk” that is a blend of Brettanomyces yeast and bacteria aged in Hungarian barrels for a year (and is blended into each Barrel Room Collection beer in varying levels). This one also is bottle conditioned with Champagne yeast. All this results in a heady brew that variously exhibits fruitcake, plum, currant, caramel, sour cherry, earth, molasses, raisin, fig, clove, and spice! With all this complexity and high alcohol (10.2 ABV, 18 IBU), this one is best with dessert or by itself after dinner.

 

Deschutes


Hop Trip Fresh Hop Pale Ale. “Fresh hop” means the Deschutes team brings just harvested hops from the fields of nearby Salem to the brewery in Bend within four hours of picking. Those include Salmon Safe Nugget, Centennial, and Fresh Crystal hops that are balanced with NW Pale, Extra Special, Cara-Munich, and Carapils malts. Refreshing citrus, pine and resin notes meld with grapefruit, spice, caramel, and tropical notes. Even at a friendly 5.3 ABV and 38 IBU, it delivers solid, mouthfilling, citrusy and spicy flavors nicely balanced with malty character.

 

 

Jubelale. A festive winter warmer ale, Jubelale, now in its 26th year, actually is the first brew ever bottled by Deschutes. With six types of hops and five types of malts, I found this impressively flavorful and complex. It opened with roasted coffee and chestnut (or was it chicory?) aromas that carried into the mouth. That palate carried its 6.7 ABV well and showed excellent depth, offering mocha and malt character, with a sharp hoppy (70 IBU) lift in the finish.

 

 

Chasin’ Freshies Fresh Hop IPA. Another fresh hop beer, this one comes from the Bond Street Series (their seasonal special release program). In contrast to Hop Trip, it is made with newly harvested Bravo and Amarillo hops (note: last year’s version emphasized Cascade hops) and at 65 IBU, nearly three-fourths more IBU. These are complimented with Pilsner Malt and Flaked Oats
. And it sure is fresh. There is a lot of grapefruit, fairly high alcohol (7.2 ABV), but also an earthy note and an intriguing suggestion of green grass.

 

The next two beers, like Jubelale, are best suited with dessert or after dinner. They also are capable of aging for up to a year.

 

Black Butte Porter XXV. This 25th Birthday Reserve of Deschutes’ flagship  beer uses cocoa nibs and roasted coffee from local producers. A final aging in whiskey casks imparts intensity and complexity. This well structured drink has so much going on I picked up layers of chocolate, coffee, anise and dried fruit – fig, currant, berry, plum, cherry, and date. And it packs quite a punch with 11.3 ABV and 65 IBU.

 

 

 

Abyss 2013 Reserve Imperial Stout. The eighth vintage of this extreme stout is a powerhouse – note its 11.0 ABV and 70 IBU. It is made with licorice and blackstrap molasses, vanilla bean and cherry bark all aged in bourbon, pinot noir and Oregon oak barrels. What you get out of all this is a concoction that offers hints of molasses, licorice, chocolate, and caramel in a frame of great depth and complexity.

 

 

Oskar Blues

 

Old Chub. A really fascinating Scottish strong ale, its generous amounts of malted barley and specialty grains, with a dash of beechwood-smoked malt result in a full flavored brew – also evidenced by it 8% ABV and 60 IBU. Earthy aromas of mocha, date, caramel, and toasty brown sugar are followed by flavors of roasted grains, sweet malt, caramel raisin, cocoa, blueberry, mocha, and spice. Whew!

 

 

Ten Fidy Imperial Stout. And then there is this, an impressive stout, large scaled in every way (10.5 ABV 98 IBU). It is strong and full and complex but not heavy. Start with an opening blast of resin, molasses, roasted barley, oat, chocolate, caramel, and coffee balanced with strong hoppy character. In the mouth there is more of the same but you will immediately notice a roasted malt flavor (likely from the two-row malt and chocolate malt) finishing with a nice bitter note that actually seems understated given its high IBU.

 

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GREAT AMERICAN BEER FESTIVAL CONTINUES TO IMPRESS AFTER 31 YEARS

 

Cover Photo © Brewers Association

 

The 27th Great American Beer Festival (GABF), held October 10-12 at the Colorado Convention Center, stands as a testament to the intrinsic appeal of craft brewed beer … and to the vision and hard work of the people at the Brewers Association (which organizes it) and to the craft brewers that have proliferated across the country in recent years.

 

rich mauro the peoples palate
scenes from GABF

While the rest of the American economy is at best slowly recovering, the craft beer world keeps expanding at amazing levels of growth. The Brewers Association, the not-for-profit trade association, which represents the majority of U.S. breweries, announced that during the first six months of 2013, American craft beer dollar sales and volume were up 15 percent and 13 percent, respectively. Over the same period last year, dollar sales jumped 14 percent and volume increased 12 percent. During the first half of 2013, approximately 7.3 million barrels of beer were sold by small and independent1 craft brewers, up from 6.4 million barrels over the first half of 2012.

 

According to the Brewers Association, there were 2,538 breweries operating in the U.S. as of June 30, 2013, an increase of 446 breweries since June 2012 and more than at any time since the 1870s. The Brewers Association also lists an additional 1,605 breweries (!) in planning at the year’s midpoint, compared to 1,252 a year ago. As of June 30, 2013, the count of craft breweries was at 2,483, showing that 98 percent of U.S. brewers are craft brewers. Craft brewers currently employ an estimated 108,440 full-time and part-time workers, many of which are manufacturing jobs, contributing significantly to the U.S. economy.

Not surprisingly, the GABF seems to get more popular every year, this year selling out in just 20 minutes during the public ticket sale (45 minutes last year). The GABF remains the largest commercial beer competition in the world. Here are some stats to make the point:

 

Festival Facts

  • 624 breweries (578 last year) served 3,124 beers (over 400 more than last year) and the biggest selection of American beers ever served), to 49,000 attendees (including ticketed attendees, brewers, judges, volunteers and journalists).
  • The 84 beer categories covered 138 different beer styles.
  • Winners were chosen from 4,809 entries from 745 breweries, from 49 states, plus Washington, D.C.
  • The top entered categories were (theoretically an indication of consumer interest):
  • American-Style India Pale Ale, 252 Entries (the most entered category for thirteen years running)
  • Imperial India Pale Ale, 149 entries
  • Herb and Spice Beer, 134 entries
  • American-Style Pale Ale, 124 entries
  • American-Style Strong Pale Ale, 120 entries
  • French & Belgian-Style Saison, 119 Entries
  • Wood and Barrel-Aged Strong Beer, 117 entries


Festival Sustainability

I’m also glad the GABF has continued its sustainability program and actually has worked to grow it. They have expanded their partner relationships and volunteers to increase the percent of material diverted from the landfill (from 70% to a goal of 80%). The diversion rate increased by 8% and total material recycled and composted increased 22%.

 

Program components included:

  • Disposable items at GABF were recyclable or compostable. No Styrofoam!
  • All glass and plastic bottles, cans, paper and cardboard were recycled (with a goal of diverting 100% of glass).
  • Plastic beer glasses were reusable.
  • Bulk condiments were used at concession areas.
  • Trained educators helped attendees put waste in the appropriate containers.
  • Attendees were urged to offset their carbon footprint to and from the festival by using a CO2 emissions calculation tool and offsetting the carbon through the Colorado Carbon Fund.
  • GABF has made donations to the Colorado Carbon Fund to offset their carbon footprint.
  • Hybrid taxis were available after each session.
  • House lights were kept at 50% during the show.

 

Colorado’s Winners!

 

The GABF is both a public/member festival and a privately judged competition. And once again Colorado was well represented among the awards. By my count, 35 Colorado breweries won 43 awards, all increases from last year. Only California, with 52 awards, won more. The Colorado winners are listed below.

 

  • American-Style Wheat Beer, Bronze: Super 77 Wheat, Wiley Roots Brewing, Greeley
  • Fruit Beer, Gold: Golden Knot – Chardonnay, Blue Moon Brewing, Denver
  • Fruit Wheat Beer, Gold: Peachy Peach, Pagosa Brewing & Grill, Pagosa Springs & Bronze: Lilikoi Kepolo, Avery Brewing, Boulder
  • Field or Pumpkin Beer, Gold: Elektrick Cukumbahh, Trinity Brewing, Colorado Springs
  • Herb and Spice Beer, 
Silver: Chai Milk Stout, Yak & Yeti Restaurant & Brewpub, Arvada
  • Chocolate Beer, Gold: Chocolate Oak Aged Yeti Imperial Stout, Great Divide, Denver
  • Specialty Honey Beer, Bronze: West Bound Braggot, Twisted Pine Brewing, Boulder
  • Gluten-Free Beer, Bronze: Gluten-Free Brown Ale, New Planet Beer, Boulder
  • American-Style Brett, Bronze: HopSavant, Crooked Stave Artisan Beer Project, Denver
  • Kellerbier or Zwickelbier, Gold: Keller Pils, Prost Brewing, Denver
  • Smoke Beer, Gold: Second Hand Smoke, SandLot, Denver
  • Bohemian-Style Pilsner, 
Silver: Czech Pilsner, Gordon Biersch Brewery Restaurant, Broomfield
  • Dortmunder or German-Style Oktoberfest, Gold: Move Back, SandLot, Denver
  • European-Style Dunkel, Gold: Munich Dunkel, Carver Brewing, Durango & Bronze: The Fearless Youth, Grimm Brothers Brewhouse, Loveland
  • Bock, 
Bronze: Goat Rancher, SandLot, Denver
  • English-Style Summer Ale, Gold: True Blonde Ale, Ska Brewing, Durango,
  • Silver: Hanging Lake, Glenwood Canyon Brewing, Glenwood Springs
  • Classic English-Style Pale Ale, Gold: 5 Barrel Pale Ale, Odell Brewing Co., Fort Collins & Silver: Extra Pale Summer Ale, Dry Dock Brewing Aurora
  • English-Style India Pale Ale, 
Bronze: Enterprise IPA, Dry Dock Brewing, Aurora
  • International-Style Pale Ale, Bronze: IPL, AC Golden, Golden
  • American-Style Pale Ale, Silver: Featherweight Pale, Cannonball Creek Brewing, Golden
  • English-Style Mild Ale, Gold: S.S. Minnow Mild, Dry Dock Brewing, Aurora,
  • Ordinary or Special Bitter, Gold: Sawtooth Ale, Left Hand Brewing, Longmont &
  • Silver: HMS Victory Amber, Dry Dock Brewing, Aurora
  • Scottish-Style Ale, 
Bronze: Redhawk Ale, Rockyard Brewing, Castle Rock
  • Irish-Style Red Ale, 
Silver: Colorado Boy Irish Ale, Colorado Boy Brewing, Ridgway & Bronze: Ragtop Red, Rock Bottom Brewery, Broomfield
  • English-Style Brown Ale, Gold: Bandit Brown, City Star Brewing, Berthoud & 
Bronze: Longboard Brown, Rock Bottom Brewery, Broomfield
  • German-Style Altbier, Bronze: Echo Amber, Echo Brewing, Frederick
  • South German-Style Hefeweizen, Gold: Big Horn Hefeweizen, CB and Potts Restaurant and Brewery, Highlands Ranch
  • German-Style Wheat Ale, Gold: Slam Dunkel, Steamworks Brewing, Durango
  • Robust Porter, Gold: Moonlight Porter, Rock Bottom Brewery, Broomfield
  • Foreign-Style Stout, Gold: Fade to Black Volume 1, Left Hand Brewing, Longmont
  • American-Style Stout, Silver: Battlecat Stout, Cannonball Creek Brewing, Golden
  • Sweet Stout or Cream Stout, Gold: Milk Stout, Left Hand Brewing, Longmont
  • Imperial Stout, Bronze: Hammer and Sickle, Renegade Brewing, Denver
  • Scotch Ale, Gold: Wee Heavy, Dry Dock Brewing, Aurora
  • Old Ale or Strong Ale, Bronze: Mule Kick, City Star Brewing, Berthoud
  • Barley Wine-Style Ale, 
Bronze: Release the Hounds Barley Wine, Bull & Bush Brewery, Denver

 

Special kudos goes to Colorado’s Left Hand Brewing, who tied for most gold medals won (three) with California’s Firestone Walker Brewing.

 

And it doesn’t end there! Colorado breweries won two of the three medals in the Pro-Am competition, which pairs amateur brewers with professional brewers who scale up the award-winning homebrew recipes. The Colorado medal winners, including the winning professional brewers and American Homebrewers Association (AHA) member homebrewers are:

 

  • Silver: Charlie’s Brown, New Belgium Brewing, 
Brewmaster: Peter Bouckaert/Grady Hull, and AHA member Mike Formisan
  • Bronze: Oatmeal Stout, Upslope Brewing, 
Brewmaster: Alex Violette, and AHA member Derek Ordway

 

Colorado breweries won two of the eight “Brewery and Brewer of the Year” Awards:

 

  • Brewpub Group and Brewpub Group Brewer of the Year: Rock Bottom Brewery, Broomfield, Team Rock Bottom
  • Large Brewing Company and Large Brewing Company Brewer of the Year: SandLot, Denver, John, Tom, Bill & Addison

 

And last but not least, Wheat Ridge’s Brewery Rickoli and owner Rick Abitbol were selected for the Samuel Adams 2013 “Brewing and Business Experienceship,” award by the company’s “Brewing the American Dream” program. Over the coming year, Arbitol and Rickoli will benefit from this mentoring opportunity offered as part of the company’s ongoing small business microlending and coaching program, which founder Jim Koch started in 2008. By the way, this is a really cool program by craft brewing’s largest brewer to support the smaller players in the industry. How many other large companies actively promote the success of smaller “competitors” in their industry?

 

Farm to Table Pavilion

I was glad to see the festival continued its emphasis on matching beer with food. This was prominently on display in the more intimate Farm-to-Table Pavilion where chefs created dishes using Colorado products to pair with selected beers from around the country.

I have been pleased to see craft brewers in recent years put more effort into making beers that are best drunk with food. The Farm-to-Table Pavilion presented a fine opportunity to discover how much local foods rendered by skilled chefs have in common with craft beer from small and independent breweries. This innovative event has quickly become a highlight of the GABF.

Colorado chefs Kelly Whitaker of Basta Pizzeria (Boulder), Alex Seidel of Fruition (Denver), Drew Hardin of Lola (Denver), Kelly Liken of Restaurant Kelly Liken (Vail), Kyle Mendenhall of The Kitchen (Denver), Lon Symensma of ChoLon Bistro (Denver), and Sean Clark of  El Moro (Durango) all clearly were having a great time serving their amazing food with great beers (special releases available only in the pavilion and not in the festival hall) from Great Divide, CH Evans, Real Ale, Rahr and Sons, Cigar City, Big Sky, The Bruery, Port City, Surly, Victory, Redrock, and Logsdon Organic.

And believe it or not, what I have covered here represents only a fraction of all the activities at the GABF.  I can’t wait to see what they come up with for next year.

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BOSTON AND CAMBRIDGE SERVE UP UNPARALLELED HISTORY MATCHED WITH SIDES OF IMPRESSIVE FOOD & CULTURE

In the course of seeking out my family members for recommendations for our upcoming vacation, I naturally talked to my nephew who had lived in Boston for a few years while going to graduate school. He promptly told me “Boston is my favorite city in the world.” After a week in the most historic of American cities, I can see why he would have that opinion.

 

Actually, I should say “Boston area” because we spent some time in Cambridge and other nearby cities. I had been once before but not for this long and I was really looking forward to the trip, for three basic reasons: The history and culture, the food and the beer.

 

History, Culture and Art

 

I had taken the “Freedom Trail” before. It is a 2½-mile walking route that covers sixteen historically significant sites, many among the most important in our nations founding. It is a must for every first time visitor. This time I opted for a walking market tour of the North End, Boston’s “Little Italy,” offered to me by “Michele Topor’s Boston Food Tours.”

 

I was struck by how isolated this area seemed from the rest of the city, almost like another world … but a well preserved and fascinating world. To see the Old North Church and Paul Revere’s House makes one take pause and ponder our country’s beginnings. But this tour was mostly focused on the neighborhood’s Italian food and wine culture.

 

This has got to be one of the highest concentrations of food shops and restaurants anywhere. Our tour wound through the neighborhood visiting six representative stores. We began at Maria’s Pastry Shop, moved a few doors down to De Pasquale’s
 Homemade Pasta Shoppe, then sampled bread at Bricco Pantteria, coffee at Polcari’s, salami and prosciutto at Sulmona Meat Market, veggies at Alba Produce, and cheese at Monica’s Mercato. You get the idea. And these places are only the tip of the iceberg in this fascinating neighborhood.

 

Boston also is home to world-class art and theater. We found a good way to access some of the most important institutions was with the “Boston City Pass,” The pass affords general admission to five attractions – New England Aquarium, Museum Of Science, Skywalk Observatory, Museum Of Fine Arts, 
Harvard Museum Of Natural History, and The Old State House – at close to half the price of the individual admissions.

 

 

We were especially impressed with the collection at the Museum of Fine Arts, which included works by Monet, Degas, Pissarro, Renoir, Callebotte, Cézanne, and Van Gogh, not to mention an extensive antiquities collection and, during out visit, a special exhibition of Sixties fashion called “ Hippie Chic.” I also recommend everyone check out the Skywalk Observatory on the 50th floor of the Prudential Center (an office building and a giant indoor mall). Great 360° views of the city and surroundings, including Boston Harbor, the Boston Common and Fenway Park are enriched with displays – dubbed the Dreams of Freedom Immigration Museum – recounting important developments in the city’s history.

 

 

We also took the opportunity to attend a performance of the acclaimed Blue Man Group. BMG performs regularly at the historic, 175 year-old Charles Playhouse in Boston’s Theater District. The show featured innovative performances involving music, technology, and comedy. And it did not disappoint.

 

We also were glad we decided to venture down to the crowded waterfront to see the Institute for Contemporary Arts. It’s in an impressive setting with views of the Boston Harbor. We viewed works from the collection by Phillip Taffe, Paul Chan, Annette Lemieux, and Mickalene Thomas. And we were really impressed with the Barry McGee Exhibit. Barry McGee is “street artist” or “graffiti artist” (I’m not sure of the proper term). He uses found materials, leftover paint and other tools of the tagging trade to create explorations of urban life, in this case mostly the Mission District of San Francisco.

 

Dining – Boston

 

 

During our visit, we were hosted for a dinner at Osaka Japanese Sushi & Steakhouse in Brookline. Osaka is the only Japanese Steak House (Hibachi restaurant) in the area. Osaka offers diners two different but complimentary dining options: entertaining Hibachi grill show and quiet sushi rooms. Osaka also has extensive menus of traditional and creative Japanese cuisines.

 

We began with a rather impressive “Tomo” roll that was spicy, crunchy salmon and mango topped with seared salmon, white tuna, avocado, crispy rice, and honey wasabi sauce. It was almost a meal in itself. We also enjoyed a Shrimp Hibachi entrée and the Chefs Special char-grilled Chilean sea bass, marinated in sake sauce. Although it is a bit of a distance from the center of the action in Boston, if you find yourself in or near Brookline, Osaka is worth a stop.

 

 

We also appreciated a lunch invitation from The Palm. Located in the Financial District (of course), this outpost of the national upscale steak and seafood chain presented atmosphere to more than match its fare. It was amazing to learn The Palm began 87 years ago as an Italian restaurant in New York and is still family owned. The Palm restaurants may be most famous for the caricatures of local notables and celebrities on the walls but I’ve always appreciated the professional and attentive service. And the Boston restaurant lived up to the reputation. Here, everyone is made to feel special.

 

As for the food, my wife raved about her bountiful Jumbo Lump Crab Cake sandwich, while I opted for the Three Course Power Lunch. I started with a fresh Gazpacho; then savored a moist Cod special and finished with the signature Flourless Chocolate Cake. After all these years, The Palm continues to provide its guests with an all round fine dining experience.

 

For good food and a great view it would be hard to beat Legal Harborside. We were excited to be invited to Legal Seafoods’ new 20,000 square foot flagship property
 on the Boston Waterfront in the bustling Seaport District adjacent to the historic Boston Fish Pier (the oldest continuously working fish pier in the United States). Legal Sea Foods started as a fish market in Cambridge, MA in 1950 and, still family-owned, now operates a chain of restaurants along the Eastern Seaboard.

 

Legal Harborside really is an impressive building, with three floors featuring three distinct dining concepts. We ate on the first floor where the menu reflects the company’s heritage of casual fresh seafood favorites, an oyster bar and an old-fashioned fish market. From the extensive menu, we started with Baked Stuffed Artichokes with shrimp and scallop stuffing and while my wife couldn’t resist the fresh cold-water north Atlantic lobster, I chose a seasonal soft shell crab special. The second floor menu features a fine dining experience. And the third floor rooftop lounge actually has a retractable glass roof and walls making it usable year-round. Quite impressive.

 

Finally, we made time before the Blue Man Group to have a delightful brunch at Market by Jean Georges, a casual but elegant space in the W Hotel from the superstar New York chef.

 

Dining – Cambridge

 

We also made a point of venturing over to Cambridge a few times to sample the culinary offerings in this city best known for its institutions of higher learning. Next time we come to the area, we also will have visit its art and other cultural attractions. We had two fantastic meals in the Harvard Square commercial district.

 

 

And, as it turned out, both restaurants are run by chef’s who have been named Food & Wine Magazine Best New Chefs. At Harvest, a Harvard Square favorite since the 1970s, chef Mary Dumont continues a tradition of employing well regarded and award winning chefs, such as Barbara Lynch, Bob Kinkead and Lydia Shire. Dumont’s contemporary New England food proved I made the right choice for our dinner with a friend who lives in the area. I also was excited to finally eat at Rialto, Jody Adams’ restaurant of twenty years. I have been reading about this restaurant and Chef Adams for almost that long and was not disappointed. Her contemporary Italian food was impeccable, as were the New England–style dishes.

 

We also were lucky to find Catalyst in Kendall Square. Chef William Kovel, who has worked at some of Boston’s best restaurants, produces what probably is best described as modern American with Italian influences. We enjoyed brunch so much we went back for lunch. As a bonus, all of these restaurants work with local producers and use organic and sustainably produced products as much as possible.

 

Beer, Beer and More Beer

 

I cannot conclude an article about Boston and Cambridge without at least a few words on the beer culture. Although that beer culture has a long history, I submit its modern history begins in 1984 when Jim Koch established the Boston Beer Company. His Samuel Adams Boston Lager wasn’t the first contemporary craft brew (I’m thinking Anchor Steam beer has that credit.) but it did emulate its namesake and brew a revolution in the American beer industry. Today, it is the largest craft brewery in the U.S. and the fifth largest brewery by production.

 

We enjoyed an informative tour of the original brewery (located in the suburb of Jamaica Plain) made really special, as our guide was head brewer Jennifer Glanville. Even if your tour is not lead by the head brewer, a visit here is a must. There are numerous displays explaining how beer is made and Sam Adams beer history. And this location is now the company’s experimental brewery. You just might get to taste some of the new creations.

 

We also made time to venture back to the Seaport District for a visit to Harpoon Brewery, Boston’s other famous brewery. Harpoon is the ninth largest craft brewery in the U.S. and the sixteen largest by production but unfortunately is not available in Colorado. So, it was extra special to try a taster of six beers at the brewery’s Beer Hall. This is another place worth a visit.

 

Back in Cambridge, the Cambridge Brewing Company should be on any beer fan’s itinerary. Located in Kendall Square not far from the Catalyst, this place combines excellent beer with equally good food. I still remember the Cioppino I had. Proof beer and food pairing can be as satisfying as wine and food pairing.

 

In fact, the whole week was satisfying, even though there are about two dozen other restaurants I wanted to try and at least a dozen other sites I wanted to visit. Our only complaint for the whole week was the traffic. I thought it was bad in Denver. This was worse. Still, I can’t wait to go back.

 

 

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Fallbrook Brewing Company – Celebrating All Things Local

As the craft beer movement continues to grow in San Diego County, Fallbrook Brewing Company stands out as a promising contender.  Embracing all things local, the brewery has a true charm nestled in the heart of Fallbrook’s downtown.  The community of Fallbrook lies northeast of Oceanside and just southwest of Temecula Valley’s wine country.  It known for its avocado groves boasting itself asthe “Avocado Capital of the World.” It is often called “The Friendly Village”where the community hosts their annual Avocado Festival drawing large crowds.  As the friendly village, the local are really just that.  Many are lifelong residents and appreciate the localvore of the area.

In fact, Fallbrook continues to grow embracing their agricultural roots featuring local farms such as Terra Bella Ranch and gastronomic dining like Oink and Moo Burgers and BBQ.  This is a creative community showcases a large art movement with the school of the arts along with a popular art center.  With this creative uprising now comes the next movement with all things local…beer.

Enter Fallbrook Brewing Company (FBC).  The beers are unique boasting local ingredients in popular craft brew favorites.  It is a small craft brewery or nano brewery with a tasting room to serve those seeking local handcrafted beer. FBC houses a small three barrel brewing system allowing the brewers to be creative and offer a spectrum of staple beers and variety of specialty offerings. They strive to utilize local ingredients whenever possible and their goal is to have a positive impact on the local community – “Be Social, Drink Local.”

FBC is a family operation with brothers Chuck and Stephan McLaughlin and their spouses Jaime and Jenn.  Family and friends help run the tap room, so the atmosphere is welcoming and fun.  Serving as head brewer, Chuck is an up and comer with local awards for home brew.  In fact, McLaughlin won for his Rubus Vigoratus, a Russian Imperial Stout with notes of coriander and raspberries (8% ABV), which he brewed with Iron Fist Brewing Company in neighboring Vista, California.  The McLaughlins are fans of the floral spicy notes in a Belgian yeast, along with the hoppiness of IPAs, so expect to find some surprises brewed up to include a camomile IPA and saison made with local avocado blossom honey.

The staples for FBC will honor the streets of Fallbrook – Stagecoach Stout (5.5% ABV), Sleeping Indian IPA (6.5% ABV), Reche Rye Pale Ale (6% ABV), Calavo Cream Ale (4.8% ABV) and Wilt Road Wit (check out line up here).  However the specialty beers definitely show off the fun and flavorful palates of this team. Highlights from their sold out grand opening included a Coffee Stout from locally roasted coffee from Temecula (5.5% ABV), Portleigh Stout with black currents (7% ABV), a Tinge of Ginge Ale with hints of ginger (4.8% ABV) and other fun specialties such as the Apple Jack Rye PA with apples and whiskey (6.5%) and Plum Crazy Saison with fresh plum jam (6% ABV).  My favorite was the Sour Saison, a summer saison with the spice and farmhouse style you expect with a nice sour pucker finish (6% ABV).  Their specialty Coffee and Cream on nitro (4.8% ABV) tapped out by the second session of the grand opening making it one of the most popular of the day.  It is easy to see that the McLaughlins are passionate about their beers and passionate about Fallbrook.

Tasting room hours are Wed-Thu 3-8pm, Fri 3-9pm, Sat 12-9pm and Sun 12-5pm and is located on 136 Main Avenue.  Check out FallbrookBrewing.com for the most up-to-date info on brews, events and more!  Grab a sandwich Dominick’s or a burrito at Estrella’s and belly up at the bar for a pint.  Lift your glass and toast the newest brewery in San Diego County.  This is one brewery you do not want to miss.  Cheers!

 

 

 

Featured Writer:  Cari Gordonne works for the U.S. Marine Corps servicing over 50,000 Marines, Sailors and their families aboard Camp Pendleton. She has served on the board for Slow Food Temecula Valley since 2008. Passionate about good, clean, fair food with a commitment to community and the environment.  She enjoys la dolce vita in wine country, but is a native of Colorado. Blessed with a great Italian family, she is foodie enthusiast and is also the niece of Rich Mauro.

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HOPE FAMILY SHOWCASES THE BEST OF PASO ROBLES

On a recent press trip to Paso Robles, sponsored by Hope Family Wines, our host Austin Hope set the tone for the visit when he said it was his goal to show us the diversity of the region, not just his wines. I welcomed this, not only because Hope’s wines have long been among my favorites but also because I had been to Paso twice before and was eager to see how the region has developed.

 

Paso Robles is the largest American Viticultural Area (AVA) in California. It is also the name of the main town of about 30,000, whose original name was El Paso del Robles (“Passage of the Oaks”). But, after my visits to the area, I think Paso could just be short for “passion.

Austin Hope oversees Hope Family Wines (www.hopefamilywines.com), a family-owned and -operated enterprise encompassing five brands: Liberty School, Treana, Candor, Austin Hope and Troublemaker wines. Austin’s father, Chuck Hope moved his family from the Central Valley to Paso in 1978 to plant wine grapes pioneering families of the region. After growing grapes and developing vineyards throughout the eighties and early nineties, the family became convinced Paso Robles was capable of producing world-class wines and began producing their own wines.

 

They joined a handful of other pioneering families who helped promote the region, not just as a source of fine quality grapes but also as a complete wine travel destination. Today, Austin and Hope Family Wines also epitomize Paso Robles’ reputation for being on the cutting edge, a reputation Austin has fostered by experimenting with Rhone-style blends and multiple vintage wines.

At a tour of the Huerhuero Vineyard, a longtime source for entry level Liberty School wines, on the Eastside of Paso Robles, and of the nearby Hope Family Wines winemaking facility, we learned from General Manager of Vineyard Operations Suhky Sran, Winemaker J.C. Diefenderfer, and Assistant Winemaker Samantha Taylor about the family’s role in developing vineyards throughout Paso Robles and how they work with over 50 family-owned vineyards to produce fruit for the Liberty School wines. The brand had bee created in the 1970’s by the Wagner family of Napa’s Caymus Vineyards and the Hopes collaborated with the Wagners since the late 1980’s to supply cabernet sauvignon grapes. He Hope’s then took over sole responsibility for the brand in 1996.

 

Today, there is a range of varietals that deliver consistent quality for the money and are regularly recognized as a “Good Values” and “Best Buys.” Look for Cabernet Sauvignon (2010, $14), Chardonnay wines (2011, $14), Pinot Noir ($20), and Liberty School Merlot ($16). The wines are made in a more restrained, food friendly style with forward fruit, good varietal character, and moderate alcohol.

 

The Hopes then established Treana Winery in 1996, to produce high-end Rhone-style blends from Paso Robles and Central Coast fruit. JC explained to us the name Treana symbolizes the trinity of natural elements – sun, soil and ocean – that make Paso Robles and the Central Coast exceptional for growing wine grapes.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

To give us a flavor for what this means, we toured the Mer Soleil Vineyard in the Santa Lucia Highlands near Salinas (our only stop outside of Paso Robles). This Monterey County-based vineyard is the long-time major source for Treana White, one of the first white Rhone-style blends and still one of the most highly regarded. The current vintage (2011, $23) is a blend of equal parts viognier and marsanne. Floral and tropical aromatics precede ripe pear and honey flavors combined with a lush texture and balancing acidity.

 

The Treana Red (2010, $45), which Austin considers his flagship wine, is a blend of cabernet sauvignon and syrah. It combines the depth and structure of a Cab, with the fullness and class of syrah. It is a perfect example of Austin’s willingness to work outside-the-box. Not many wineries were combining Rhone and Bordeaux blends when he created this wine almost twenty years ago.

The Hopes also own a vineyard on the Westside of Paso Robles planted primarily to syrah and grenache, with some mourvedre. Austin crafts wines inspired by the Northern Rhône Valley from this estate grown fruit. Known as the Hope Family Vineyard, it is located 20 miles east of the Pacific Ocean in the Templeton Gap district of Paso Robles. The site’s rocky soils of clay and limestone make it ideal for the Rhône varietals to which it is planted.

 

At this site, we were given a fascinating overview of the sustainable farming practices – certified by Sustainability in Practice (SIP), www.sipcertified.com – employed in the vineyard. Beth Vukmanic Lopez, Sustainability in Practice Certification Manager explained how for over 15 years, SIP has helped growers, vineyards and consumers rethink their approach to sustainability. As Beth said, SIP Certified sustainable vineyards and wines is about looking at the whole farm and considering “people, planet and profit.” In this sense, SIP is complementary to organic practices, not necessarily a replacement. Of course, a winery needs to make a profit to stay in business but that is closely tied to the quality of the wines, which depends on the quality of the grapes, which is connected to healthy vineyards. But SIP practices also consider the well being of the vineyard and winery workers, an often over looked factor. An important element to the success of the program is the third party certification SIP provides using independent auditors.

 

At the winery and tasting room on site, we enjoyed a barrel tasting of 2012 vintage Austin Hope Syrah and Grenache. Austin told us he uses traditional Côte-Rotie as his benchmark in making his syrah. But, being in California, he added he likes his wines to taste like the old world wines “but with a little bit more.”

This approach showed through the current vintages we tasted. The Syrah (2010, $42) displayed a balance of savory and fruit elements. Aromatic, intense and full-bodied, it also was elegant with pure berry fruit, licorice and earthy complexity. The Grenache (2010, $42) revealed characteristics of dried red fruits, earth and spices with good concentration, firm acidity and soft tannins.

 

The Hopes haven’t stopped to rest on these successful brands. Another label, “Candor” was created in 2008. These multi-vintage wines, a Merlot and Zinfandel, are crafted from specially selected fruit from a variety of Central Coast vineyards. They exhibit excellent varietal flavor at a reasonable price. We tasted the Zinfandel Lot 4 ($20) and Merlot Lot 3 ($20), which I found notable for their true varietal flavor and fresh, bright fruit.

 

Finally, the newest label in the Hope Family stable, “Troublemaker,” places Austin Hope’s creativity and willingness to challenge convention on full display. Troublemaker Blend 6 ($20) is a multi-vintage montage of 50% Syrah, 20% Grenache, 10% Mourvèdre, 10% Zinfandel and 10% Petite Sirah. Its profile reflected its name with brash fruit and lively texture.

While it was great to learn about all the Hope wines, the trip was made really special by the inclusion of visits to some of Paso Robles most notable artisan producers and restaurants.

 

Villa Creek (www.villacreek.com) has long been a destination restaurant for Paso Robles.

Artisan (www.artisanpasorobles.com) grows some of its ingredients at a local organic farm and showcased a distinctive wine on tap program.

Thomas Hill Organics (www.thomashillorganics.com) is a casual market-bistro that serves spectacularly fresh food, not surprising since most of it comes from their own organic farm.

Il Cortile Ristorante (www.ilcortileristorante.com) features exceptional homemade pastas, fresh seafood, and top-quality meats.

 

All of the restaurants craft dishes as much as possible from seasonal, locally grown ingredients from small producers, much of it organically or sustainably farmed. At these restaurants, farm-to-table is not just a marketing slogan. They live it every day. I will say without hesitation these places are as good as the best restaurants in any city in the nation.

 

And as if that wasn’t enough, to give us a sampling of the top quality artisan products being produced in the area we also toured two special places.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

A visit to the Kiler Ridge Olive Farm (http://kilerridge.com) with founders Audrey Burnam & Gregg Bone was eye opening. Although it is just minutes from downtown Paso Robles the hilly, picturesque location transports visitors to another location, specifically Italy. Kiler Ridge uses sustainable farming practices and currently maintains 2,500 olive trees – varieties originating from Italy and Sicily.

 

Gregg and Audrey were gracious hosts. Gregg provided us with an extensive overview of his production process and explained in amazing detail why most of the “extra virgin” olive oil we buy in the supermarket isn’t really, regardless of what’s on the label.

 

It was particularly enlightening to me to actually taste the difference. The Kiler Ridge oils were noticeably fresher and displayed distinct grassy and peppery flavors. Greg explained this is because his oils have much higher polyphenol content – he even said, “I’m a polyphenol producer, not an olive oil producer.” Polyphenols are strong antioxidants with many health benefits. Bottom line, though, the oils were delicious but admittedly might be an acquired taste for some consumers used to blander commercial oils.

 

And they presented us with the most eye opening taste sensation I have hade in years: vanilla ice cream topped with sea salt, my choice of Kiler Ridge olive oil and balsamic syrup. All I can say is “wow!” It was delicious with all the savory and sweet elements melding together beautifully.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We also took a refreshing break from winetasting for a tour of the Firestone Walker Brewery (www.firestonebeer.com) with Brewmaster Matt Brynildson. Firestone Walker (named for owners Adam Firestone and David Walker) has been brewing since 1996 but moved from Santa Barbara to Paso Robles in 2001. Firestone Walker and Brewmaster Brynildson are one of the nation’s most awarded breweries and are particularly notable for their use of barrel fermentation for several of their ales.

 

I wholeheartedly recommend the next time you are considering a vacation to wine country, make Paso Robles your destination. The number of wineries has grown from about forty 25 years ago to over 200 (mostly small and family-owned) today. But that is only the beginning of this region’s story. Passionate, dedicated artisan producers with a commitment to sustainability are to be found everywhere in the region.