Category: Beer and Spirits

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WASHINGTON, D.C. DISHES UP, YES, POLITICS BUT ALSO GOOD FOOD AND DRINK

This article originally was written for Out Front Colorado. Featured image courtesy of Destination D.C.

Planning a trip to our nation’s capitol, maybe to lobby for repeal of the deceptively named “Defense of Marriage Act” or to support passage of the Employment Non-Discrimination Act” or to encourage the Joint Chiefs to expedite implementation of the repeal of “Don’t Ask, Don’t Tell?” After a day of political activism, you’re going to need sustenance and something to quench your thirst. I’ve traveled to D.C. at least once each of the last five years – just got back from my most recent trip – and can help guide you to some worthy choices.

The Dupont Circle neighborhood has been the center of the city’s GLBT community since the 1970s. You’ll find an impressive mix of restaurants, bistros, and bars boutiques, shops, hotels, B&BS, galleries and museums. I (and many others) have especially enjoyed the New England-style seafood at Jamie Leeds’ Hank’s Oyster Bar, as it has become one of the neighborhood’s most popular establishments.

On my most recent trip, my disappointment one day in finding that Café Green (which  specializes in vegetarian food) was closed for the lunch turned to  culinary joy with the  lunch I had at Pizzeria Paradiso. My 8-inch special served up  a toasty, crispy crust  slathered with olive paste topped with cherry tomatoes,  Kalamata olives, basil, and  Parmesan, and hedonistically finished with Prisciutto  di Parma. It was admirably  accompanied by a pint of New Holland’s “The Poet”   Oatmeal Stout.

On this trip, though, I spent most of my time exploring the offerings in the Penn Quarter, an area of downtown not far from Union Station, Chinatown and Capitol Hill that has seen a transformation into one of the city’s most talked-about restaurant destinations. The neighborhood has long been essentially the city’s theater district. It also has become an entertainment center with numerous clubs, the sports arena, and numerous world-class museums.

I ate breakfast and dinner here all three days I was in town. Breakfast was coffee and pastries alternating at Firehook Bakery and Chinatown Coffee Company.

Dinner the first night was at celebrity chef José Andrés’ Jaleo. This trend-setting tapas restaurant did not disappoint. I enjoyed a traditional fisherman’s “sopa,” a wild mushroom studded “arroz,” and homemade “chorizo,” all washed down with a  satisfying Ludovicus Terra Alta (a fine blend of garnacha, tempranillo and syrah). I  was particularly impressed with the high quality olive oil served with bread to start  the meal.

For my second dinner, I decided to indulge both the “winie” and the “foodie” in mewith a meal  at the popularwine bar Proof. They have great looking charcuterie and cheese menus but I  went right to the main menu. My garlicky escarole salad, and roast organic chicken breast  with mushrooms, rapini and polenta were soul satisfying. My wines were pricey but very good  – a crisp, refreshing Gran Cardiel Verdejo for my aperitif and a Bergstrom Cumberland Reserve Pinot Noir with thdentrée.

My last dinner was at the elegant Ristorante Tosca. I settled on the popular pre-theater menu (something many of the restaurants in the Penn Quarter offer, though none offer as many choices as Tosca) as a more affordable way to sample the menu. As a bonus, ten percent of the price is donated to “Food and Friends,” an organization that delivers meals and groceries to people living with HIV/AIDS and other life-threatening illnesses. I enjoyed whole-wheat square spaghetti, sea bass with spinach and balsamic syrup, and finished with bites of three cheeses. The wines, a melony Kris Pinot Grigio and a full-bodied, rich Novelli Montefalco Rosso (sangiovese, sagrantino, merlot, cabernet sauvignon), were good companions.

After a morning visiting several of Colorado’s Congressional offices, I took an opportunity to explore Capitol Hill along Pennsylvania Avenue Southeast. The area has long been a social and residential center for DC’s gay and lesbian community. I walked to what many consider Capitol Hill’s “town hall” – Eastern Market, the oldest operating public market in the city (since 1873!). It is a great place to stock up on fresh produce, meats, flowers, baked goods and unique arts and crafts. I enjoyed a simple but juicy chicken sandwich at Market Lunch. Nearby Eighth Street SE, with its concentration of shops, restaurants and bars (including Phase 1, the nation’s oldest lesbian bar) is a center for alternative nightlife.

On my way back to the Capitol for more meetings, I couldn’t resist stopping by Peregrine Espresso for a jolt, followed by a stop at Good Stuff Eatery. I passed on a gourmet burger, instead enjoying excellent hand cut fries.

There are many more tantalizing options in the Capitol city. For valuable travel advice, go to the Destination D.C. website. Whether you are traveling for business, politics, culture or entertainment, Washington, D.C. is a special travel destination.

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WORTHY NEW SEASONAL BEER FROM DESCHUTES

Once in a while, this wine guy gets an opportunity to sample new craft beer releases. I’m happy to have one now to recommend: Red Chair NWPA (Northwest Pale Ale), the new seasonal beer from Deschutes Brewery of Bend, Oregon.

Deschutes says Red Chair (6.2% ABV) is named after the oldest operating lift at Mt. Bachelor. They call it their debut Northwest Pale Ale, though not unlike the last year’s Red Chair IPA. I never tasted the IPA; so, I’ll take their word for it.

This one sits in the glass with a copper color and a loosely foamy head. As I sniff, I pick up hints of citrus, bread, caramel, and herbal lemongrass. Sipping reveals more toast and citrus. Dry, bitter hops emerge but don’t overpower. A malty counterpoint asserts itself then gives way to more hops in the finish.

I relate to it as a cross between an IPA and an American pale ale. It is medium bodied and well balanced, with a hoppy personality moderated by malty qualities. I’m told Red Chair began as an experimental beer to test new hops and hopping techniques. Additionally, seven European and domestic malts are key to the formula. The success of the experiment shows in the final product.

Maybe I shouldn’t be surprised Red Chair cleaned house the World Beer Awards. The brew will be available from January until April in six- and twelve-packs and on draft throughout the 16 states where Deschutes beer is distributed.

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Colorado Brewers Dominate GABF as Sustainability Becomes Prominent Theme

rich mauro the peoples palate
scenes from GABF

The 29th Great American Beer Festival (GABF) held a few weeks ago at the Colorado Convention Center continued its record setting ways. While most everything else in the economy is contracting, it seems the beer world just keeps expanding.  Attendance (estimated), volunteers, and the number of breweries, beers on the floor, beers in the competition, categories judged, and judges all increased over last year!

By my count, Colorado was the top winning state with Colorado brewers bringing home 29 medals won (12 percent of the total), besting even such craft beer powerhouses as California and Oregon. Blue Moon won the Large Brewing Company and Large Brewing Company Brewer of the Year awards and Rockyard Brewing Co. of Castle Rock took a silver medal in the Pro-Am competition.

The following breweries also brought home awards:

  • Boulder Beer Co., Boulder
  • Bristol Brewing Co., Colorado Springs
  • C. B. & Potts, Ft. Collins
  • Colorado Boy Pub & Brewery, Ridgway, CO
  • Del Norte Brewing Co., Denver
  • Dillon Dam Brewery, Dillon
  • Dry Dock Brewing Co., Aurora
  • Glenwood Canyon Brewing Co., Glenwood Springs
  • Great Divide Brewing Co., Denver
  • Left Hand Brewing Co., Longmont
  • Mountain Sun Pub and Brewery, Boulder
  • New Planet Beer, Boulder
  • New Belgium Brewing Co., Inc., Fort Collins
  • Pagosa Brewing Co., Pagosa Springs
  • Pug Ryan’s Brewery, Dillon
  • Rockyard Brewing Co., Castle Rock
  • Rock Bottom Brewery, multiple locations
  • Ska Brewing Co., Durango
  • Steamworks Brewing Co., Durango

I was glad to see the festival continued its emphasis on matching beer with food. This was prominently on display in the more intimate Farm-to-Table Pavilion where local chefs created dishes using Colorado products to pair with selected beers from around the country. Even some of the Colorado farmers and ranchers were there to talk about their products. We sampled craft beers paired with foods sourced from these local farms and ranches.

As a “wine guy,” I’m well versed in the affinity between wine and food. So, I have been pleased to see craft brewers in recent years put more effort into making beers that are best drunk with food. The Farm-to-Table Pavilion presented a fine opportunity to discover how much local foods rendered by skilled chefs have in common with craft beer from small and independent breweries. The event featured products from thirteen Colorado farms and ranches paired with special releases available only in the pavilion. I found this is so innovative for a beer festival I feel compelled to reprint the menu here.

The Farm To Table Pavilion Menu

Appetizers

Roasted Vegetable Napoleon, Spent Grain Cracker Sweet Onion Jam & Micro Greens

Oskar Blues’ Hoppy Seconds

Sweetwater Brewing Co. Magnum IP Imperial Pilsner

Three Sisters (Corn, Beans & Squash) Red Quinoa with Southwestern Chile Vinaigrette

Rogue Chocolate Stout

Hazel Dell Wild Mushrooms & Thyme with Creamy Polenta

Odell Brewing Co. Woodcut #3

Wood Fired “Helios” Chicken Liver Mousse with Stone Fruit Gelee, House Pickle,

Apple & Thyme Foccacia

Victory Brewing Helios

House Made Pork Sausage, Smoked Fingerling Potato, Mixed Cabbage & Pear Slaw

Victory Brewing V12

Main Dishes

Colorado “Tongue of Fire” Stew – Braised Duck, House Made Rabbit Sausage, Winter Squash & Tongue of Fire Beans

New Holland Brewing Co. Charkoota Rye

Odell Cutthroat Porter

Smoked Trout, Corn Cake & Tomatillo Chutney

Rogue Juniper Pale Ale

Mini Rosemary Buffalo Burger with Windsor Dairy Bleu Cheese & Caramelized Onions on Brioche Bun

Ska Brewing Co. Buster Nut Brown

Stone Brewing Co. Saison du Buff

Heritage Turkey Confit Quesadillas, Haystack Goat Queso de Mano & Green Heirloom Tomato Pico de Gallo

Sweetwater Brewing Co. Happy Ending

Tripple M Bar Ranch Lamb Polpette, Mint Pesto, Goat Cheese, Curry Pinenuts, Micro Basil, Balsamic Reduction

Ninkasi Summer Radiant Ale

Aion BLT: Ten Fidy Cured Bacon, Crisp Butterhead Lettuce, Heirloom Tomato,

House Made Aioli & Bread

Oskar Blues Ten Fidy

Dessert

House Made Buttermilk Panna Cotta, Honey Tuile & Colorado Berries

New Holland Brewing Co. Dragon’s Milk

Ska Dubbel Blond

Spice Cake with Roasted Pear Compote & Honey Goat Cheese Cream

Stone Brewing Co. Sawyer’s Triple

North Fork Valley Apple & Pine Nut Tartlets with Beer Caramel

Ninkasi Believer Double Red Ale

Well-earned kudos go to Chef Chad Armstrong and Chef Marlyin Kakudo and the student chefs of the Culinary School of the Rockies in Boulder. And the Guest Chefs deserve recognition for some creative parings: Dakota Soifer and Eric Lee of Café Aion, Boulder, CO; Kelly Whitaker and Sean Magallanes of Pizzeria Basta in Boulder; and Elise Wiggins of Panzano in Denver’s Hotel Monaco.

Equally impressive was that the festival continued its efforts to remain on the cutting edge of sustainability initiatives. In partnership with ZeroHero (a Colorado company that works across the country reducing the impact of major events and festivals through zero-waste management, alternative energy and education), the Colorado Convention Center, Centerplate Catering, Governors Energy Office, Colorado Carbon Fun, and Renewable Choice Energy, the GABF worked to reduce its carbon footprint and come as close to a zero-waste event as possible.

Here are some of the programs implemented at the festival:

  • At least 85% of the waste to be diverted away from the landfill
  • Most disposable items were recyclable or compostable
  • All glass and plastic bottles, cans, paper and cardboard to be recycled
  • Use of styrofoam at food outlets in the event was banned
  • Bulk condiments used at concession areas
  • All compost processed by local company
  • Carbon production offset by purchasing wind credits
  • House lights kept at 50% during the show

The Brewers Association, a brewing company trade association based in Boulder that markets the festival should be proud for organizing such a successful event in these tough economic times. And the future looks good, too. The Brewers Association reports continued growth in the craft beer industry. With just about every other industry seeing declines, the craft beer industry in 2009 achieved growth rates of 7.2% by volume and 10.3% by dollars. And by August 2010, there were 1625 breweries operating, the most in 100 years.

Let’s all raise a glass or two!

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Highlights from the Food and Wine Classic in Aspen

Check out some of my pics from the event.  Click here!

Once again, the Food & Wine Classic in Aspen (the 28th) provided numerous prime opportunities to meet winemakers

and winery owners and to discover new wines. While there always are discoveries to be made in the Grand Tasting Tent and enlightenment to be gained from the seminars, this year I especially enjoyed the special events that typically surround the main program.

As always, the Classic kicked off Thursday evening with the Welcome Reception, hosted again by Trinchero Family Estates. It’s always fun for people watching and celebrity sighting and, of course, for a chance to say “hi” to Gabby and

Mark. As for the wines, Amador County Zinfandels from Terra d’Oro and a Riesling and Sauvignon Blanc from Joel Gott (Napa winemaker and owner of Taylor’s Refresher gourmet burger joints) were particular standouts. The Gott wines showed good varietal fruit, while the Terra d’Oro wines were typically hearty and intense.

Next, Wines from Spain sponsored a Spanish-style barbecue at an amazing Aspen home that was hosted by acclaimed chef Jose Andres. So, of course, we got another chance to see Gabby and Mark. Wonderful Spanish cheeses, tapas and even a roast pig were accompanied by a half dozen crisp, Albarinos from Rias Baixa and several flavorful, tempranillo-

based reds from Ribera del Duero. My favorite reds were 2006 Emina, 2004 Protos Reserva, and 2004 Pago de los Capellanes. Spain has had a strong presence at the Classic for many years, both through seminars and The Spanish Tent, which featured many great wines too numerous to cover here.

Thursday night’s dinner at Jimmy’s was hosted by Ferrer Wine Estates and featured several sparklers from their extensive

line of Cava. It is, after all, the success of Freixenet Cava that made the Ferrer family fortune. The workhorse Feixenet Cordon Negro Brut and the Segura Viudas Reserva Heredad (love that pewter trimmed bottle) were solid appetizers, while the new Elyssia ultra premium Cava from Feixenet (Gran Cuvee Brut and Pinot Noir Brut) showed themselves as good additions to the portfolio. We also were treated to bubbly from the family’s Gloria Ferrer California operation. The new “Va di Vi” was full of fruit and I couldn’t help but take second and third helpings of the tête de cuvee 1999 Carneros Cuvee.
Friday lunch was all about beer, or I should say bière. “Tails and Ales: Where Belgian Beers meet Louisiana Crawfish” hosted by Stella Artois provided a distinctive and actually welcome respite from hours of wine tasting. Hosted by Chef John Besh (his Besh Restaurant Group owns six restaurants in southern Louisiana) and Master Beer Sommelier Marc

Stroobandt, we were treated to six courses featuring differing preparations of crawfish! As good as they all were, I was quite relieved dessert came sans tails. As for the beers, it was fun to experiment with matching the different styles – Stella Artois (light, crisp European Pilsner), Hoegaarden (citrusy, malty unfiltered Belgian white) and Leffe Blonde (spicy, malty Belgian Abbey Ale) – with each dish.

And Friday night? Three more parties! The night began with Banfi Vintners, “Five Great Chefs & Stellar Wines” party at the Grand Aspen. I especially enjoyed Banfi’s new wine called Belnero (Tuscan sangiovese), Emiliana’s Coyam (a

biodynamic Argentinean blend of mostly syrah, cabernet sauvignon, carmenere, and merlot), and Banfi Rosa Regale (a delightful Brachetto d’Acqui that paired beautifully with Jacques Torres handmade chocolate).

Then it was off to the Aspen Art Gallery to “cleanse” my palate with The Macallan Scotch, specifically the Fine Oak line of single malt scotches. For the Scotch drinker, you can’t do much better than the highly praised 12, 18, 21, and 30 Years Old

Fine Oak Single Malt Scotches. The Fine Oak Scotches are matured in European and American casks that previously held Sherry or bourbon. I found this produced an amazingly elegant, complex whiskey suggestive of dried fruit in the nose and vanilla, almond and honey in the mouth.

After that, it was back to the Hyatt for Old Bridge Cellars’ “Infamous Aussie Winemaker” party. The festivities were hosted by Chester Osborn (Fourth Generation Winemaker of d’Arenberg Winery, John Duvall (Founder/Winemaker John Duvall

Wines and former Winemaker for Penfolds Grange), and Nathan Waks (Proprietor/Managing Director of Killikanoon). It was a real privilege to be able to engage in casual conversation with these icons of Australian wine. And there wines didn’t disappoint. There was an amazing array of fantastic juice to be had. Just a few of the ones that stood out to me included Duval’s Plexus (GSM), Entity (old vine shiraz), and Eligo (the flagship shiraz); Killikanoon’s Prodigal (Grenache), Killerman’s Run (shiraz-grenache), Oracle (shiraz), and Black’s Road (cabernet sauvignon); and last but certainly not least d’Arenberg’s Mourvedre, Ironstone Pressings (GSM), Magpie (shiraz viognier), and The Dead Arm

(shiraz).

The climax of the event Saturday night, of course, was the Best New Chefs Dinner. It was especially fun this year to see Denver’s Alex Seidel honored for his work at Fruition Restaurant. It was also a treat that the dinner featured wines from Beringer. The Napa Valley Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir showed well as usual, as did the Alluvium Blanc. But it was extra special to be able to drink a few of Beringer’s top-of-the-line wines: Bancroft Ranch Merlot, Private Reserve

Chardonnay and Private Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon.

The real treat though was being able to celebrate Alex Seidel for his achievement in being recognized by Food & Wine as one of America’s Best New Chefs. I had a sought an interview with Alex and was glad I did. I’ve always appreciated the purity and impeccable simplicity of his food and the amicable attentiveness of Fruition’s staff. This clearly comes from Alex’s (and his partner Paul Atardi’s) commitment to quality. That commitment really came through in the interview. He

long has worked with local producers to source top quality ingredients and now has partnered to purchase a farm near Larkspur to help supply the restaurant. Two other elements came through in the interview that attest to Alex’s (and Fruition’s) current and future success: his focus on every situation as an opportunity to learn and improve and his relationship with his cooks and wait staff as one of a community all working together for the same purpose.

Finally, I very much enjoyed another interview opportunity with Bob Mosby, General Manager for Benovia. Bob is a retired psychologist who joined his friends Joe Anderson and Mary Dewane (who had purchased the Cohn vineyard in Sonoma’s Russian River Valley and supplied grapes to others for several years) in 2005, when they purchased a prime Pinot Noir vineyard (it had previously supplied Williams Selyem and Kosta Browne) with an existing winery and decided to produce their own wine. Importantly, Mike Sullivan, who had great success at Hartford Court before coming to Benovia, joined the project as co-owner and Winemaker. They now produce about 3000 cases of Pinot Noir (65%),

Chardonnay (25%) and Zinfandel (10%).

I sampled several 2008 wines: Sonoma Coast Chardonnay, La Pommeraie Vineyard Chardonnay, Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir, Cohn Vineyard Pinot Noir, Bella Una Pinot Noir, and La Pommeraie Vineyard Pinot Noir. Bob (and his charming wife Jeannie who had joined us) proved a delightful interview. And from the taste of the wines, I fully expect Benovia to

emerge as one of California’s top Pinot Noir and Chardonnay producers. And I can’t wait to try their Zinfandel someday. There were many more amazing experiences at the Classic but I think you get the idea. Once again, the Food & Wine brought an amazing world of food and wine to Aspen, combining education and pleasure in the magazine’s unique way.

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Colorado Brewers Dominate the GABF

rich mauroThe 28th Great American Beer Festival (GABF) held a few weeks ago at the Colorado Convention Center continued its record setting ways. While most everything else in the economy is contracting, it seems the beer world just keeps expanding. Attendance, volunteers, and the number of breweries, beers on the floor, beers in the competition, and judges all increased over last year! And Colorado dominated the competition with 45 medals won (19 percent of the total), besting even such craft beer powerhouses as California and Oregon. Coors won the Large Brewing Company and Large Brewing Company Brewer of the Year awards.Colorado’s craft brewers stepped up big time. They were led by Dry Dock Brewing Co. of Aurora, which took home the Small Brewing Company and Small Brewing Company Brewer of the Year awards. Upslope Brewing Co. of Boulder shared a Bronze medal in the Pro-Am competition, which pairs amateur brewers with professional brewers, for a brew called “Time of the Season.”

Here’s the impressive list of award winners.

Three medals each:

· Ska Brewing Co., Durango: True Blonde Ale (Bronze, English-Style Summer Ale), Buster Nut Brown (Silver, English Style Brown Ale), Steel Toe Stout (Bronze, Sweet Stout)

· Dry Dock Brewing Co., Aurora: Reines Marzen (Silver, German Style Märzen), Bismarck Altbier (Gold, German Style Altbier), U-Boat Hefeweizen (Silver, South German Style Hefeweizen)

· Great Divide Brewing Co., Denver: Hoss (Bronze, Rye Beer), Yeti Imperial Stout, (Silver, Imperial Stout), Old Ruffian Barley Wine, (Bronze, Barley Wine Style Ale)

· Gordon Biersch Brewery Restaurant Group, Broomfield: Czech Pilsner (Silver, Bohemian Style Pilsener), Golden Export (Bronze, Munich Style Helles), Dunkles, (Bronze, European Style Dunkel)

· The Sand Lot, Denver: Where the Helles Bill? (Silver, Munich Style Helles), Move Back, (Gold, Dortmunder or German-Style Oktoberfest), Greenside Up (Silver, Dortmunder or German-Style Oktoberfest)

Two medals each:

· Avery Brewing Co., Boulder: Brabant (Bronze, Experimental Beer), The Kaiser (Gold, German Style Doppelbock or Eisbock)

· Colorado Boy Pub & Brewery, Ridgway, CO: Colorado Boy IPA (Bronze, Extra Special Bitter or Strong Bitter), Colorado Boy Irish (Silver, Irish Style Red Ale)

· Glenwood Canyon Brewing Co., Glenwood Springs: Cardiff (Gold, Other Strong Beer), Carbonator (Bronze, German Style Doppelbock or Eisbock)

One medal each:

· Backcountry Brewery, Frisco: May Bock (Silver, Bock)

· Bristol Brewing Co., Colorado Springs: Cheyenne Cañon Ale (Silver, American Style Brown Ale)

· Colorado Brewing Co./Draft House, Boulder: 44 Pale Ale (Silver, American Style Pale Ale)

· Durango Brewing Co., Durango: Durango Colorfest (Gold, American Style Amber Lager)

· Left Hand Brewing Co., Longmont: Smokejumper (Gold, Smoked Beer)

· Mountain Sun Pub and Brewery, Boulder: Temperance (Bronze, American-Belgo-Style Ale)

· New Belgium Brewing Co., Inc., Fort Collins: NBB Love (Silver, German-Style Sour Ale)

· Rockyard Brewing Co., Castle Rock: Double Eagle Ale (Bronze, American-Style Wheat Beer)

· Trinity Brewing Co, Colorado Springs: TPS Report (Gold, Experimental Beer)

· Upslope Brewing Co., Boulder: Upslope Dunkel Weizen (Bronze, German-Style Wheat Ale)

I was glad top see the festival continued its emphasis on matching beer with food. There were many interesting combinations available in the Beer & Food Pavilion. There also were informative seminars and cooking demonstrations. Even more impressive was that the festival continues its efforts to remain on the cutting edge of sustainability initiatives. A good example was the partnership with “Zero Hero” to assure all disposable items were either compostable or recyclable. Another welcome innovation this year was the “Farm to Table” Pavilion. This joined chefs and local farmers with craft brewers to create exciting dishes and satisfying pairings. The Brewers Association, a brewing company trade association based in Boulder that markets the festival should be proud for organizing such a successful event in these tough economic times. And the future looks good, too. The Brewers Association also reports continued growth in the craft beer industry, with the country now reaching 1525 breweries, the most in 100 years. Let’s all raise a glass …. or two!

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Sam Adams Promotes Food and Beer Pairing and “Extreme Beer”

I know the subtitle to this website is “ Wine, Food, Travel” but even wine journalists don’t live by wine alone. I, for one, love beer, too. And I even like to write about it whenever I can. Hence, this month’s posting is all about beer.

Food and Beer Pairing
It’s become arguably the biggest trend in beer (at least craft beer) to promote serious beer and food matching – and I don’t mean wings and burgers. Food and beer matching ideas are cropping up all over the craft beer industry, with the most notable example being the Great American Beer Festival (GABF) in Denver this past October. There were pairing demos in the Beer & Food Pavilion and they even had available a beer and food matching chart that list 28 styles of beer along with suggested foods. For more info, check out www.beertown.org.

But the Boston Beer Company, maker of Sam Adams, and specifically Jim Koch, the company’s founder, has been in the forefront of this movement. This shouldn’t be a surprise, as Koch and Sam Adams have been beer innovators since the company’s founding in 1984.now Koch and his company are pushing for beer lovers and would be beer lovers to think about beer (at least some of the time) the way wine drinkers think about wine – as a natural accompaniment to food.

Koch even has promoted this idea in the heart of wine drinker territory – the Food & Wine Magazine Classic at Aspen. In recent years, Koch has hosted lunches at the Classic with food prepared by culinary luminaries, such as chefs Todd English and David Burke.

Sam Adams also has promoted beer and food pairing at the GABF this year. At a dinner at Rioja restaurant in Denver’s Larimer Square drove the point home. How about appetizers including apple beignet, foie gras Napoleon, cinnamon range gastrique and seared duck breast washed down with Sam Adams Winter Lager? Or an entrée of beef filet, seared scallops and caramelized onion with Sam Adams Boston Lager? Dessert, a hazelnut brown butter tart, was accompanied by Sam Adams Cram Stout.

Even for a wine journalist like me, the beer and food pairings seemed every bit as natural as they were revealing.

Extreme Beer?
That’s what Jim Koch calls it. I mentioned above that he and his company are beer innovators. Beginning with Triple Bock in 1994, Koch has really pushed the envelope of complexity and alcohol. The Triple Bock came in at 17.5% alcohol. In 2000, Sam Adams released Millennium Ale at 21%. Then came Utopias MMII in 2002 at 25%. In 2003, and again in 2005 Utopias was released at 25% alcohol. Now the just released 2007 edition of Utopias weighs in at 27% alcohol!

What is amazing about this brew, though, even more that the alcohol itself, is that the alcoholic heat virtually disappears behind the seamlessness of its rich texture and complex flavors of caramel, maple syrup and butter pecan. At $120 a bottle, Utopias certainly is the most expensive beer ever but this brew also can take its place among the finest after dinner drinks, whether Cognac, Sherry or Port.