Category: Food

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TAOS: HISTORY, CULTURE, ART AND, YES, WINE!

Wine travel isn’t just about visiting wineries and tasting their wine. For me, drinking wine isn’t only about how a wine tastes or even about how the grapes were grown and the wine was made but also about the history of the vineyard and the winery, the winemaker’s story, and so on. Similarly, when visiting a winery it means a lot to me to learn about the history and culture of the surrounding area.

Such it was with a recent visit to Taos, New Mexico. At this point I can hear you saying, “Wine? In New Mexico? Ok, so the New Mexico wine industry is not California; it isn’t even Colorado. But there is interesting wine being made there and plenty of fun to be had in the tasting rooms. And you can’t beat Northern New Mexico for cultural, culinary and historical interest. As much as the area is renowned for its food and art, it turns out wine is also part of its history and culture.

I was surprised to learn that the first wine grapes were planted in southern New Mexico around 1629 by Franciscan monks who had accompanied Spanish colonists to use for sacramental wine, roughly 150 years before vines were planted in California.

Over the subsequent years, wine grape growing had several ups and downs. As in many states, what I’ll call the modern New Mexico wine industry got its start in the late 1970s. Today, there are over 40 wineries, with most clustered around Albuquerque but several near Las Cruces in the south and several more in the north scattered between Santa Fe and Taos. And much like Colorado – where wineries are located all over the state but most of the grapes are grown in on one area (the Grand Valley) – most of New Mexico’s grapes are grown near Las Cruces.

In the meantime, New Mexico has become much better known for its Spanish and Native American culture, its art and its food. I had a chance to experience all of this on a recent visit to Taos with a group of writers.

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Sagebrush Inn Courtyard

Although Taos is home to many welcoming B&B’s, we enjoyed a stay at the historic Sagebrush Inn & Suites. The property opened in 1929 as a 17-room hotel. Since then, it has hosted many artists and celebrities, including Georgia O’Keefe and Dennis Hopper for example. Recently refurbished, today it features 156 rooms mostly surrounding a peaceful courtyard and a popular conference center. I enjoyed staying in one of the many rooms with a Kiva fireplace and an appealing Southwestern atmosphere. The complimentary wi-fi was particularly appreciated. We didn’t have a chance to eat at the attractive restaurant but I did enjoy a local Black Mesa Chardonnay at the Cantina surrounded by impressive works of art.

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Taos Pueblo with Sacred Taos Mountain in Background

But we were there to explore this magical place that is brimming with a mother lode of history. The first place we stopped was the Taos Pueblo, the only living Native American community designated both a World Heritage Site by UNESCO and a National Historic Landmark. Indigenous people established the Taos Pueblo complex roughly 1,000 years ago. Experience a bit of that history with a guided tour by a Pueblo native. Help preserve ancient traditions by purchasing authentic, traditional arts, crafts and food – like Mica-flecked pottery, silver jewelry and a loaf of homemade bread.

Spanish colonialists came to the area about 600 years later, apparently looking for the famed Cities of Gold. The Conquistadors didn’t find much gold but still decided to stay. Visitors can get a sense of what life was like, at least by the early 1800’s (the late Spanish Colonial period) at the Hacienda-de-los-Martinez.

Built in 1804, the fortress-like, adobe walled complex became an important trade center for the northern boundary of the Spanish Empire and the terminus for the Camino Real, which connected northern New Mexico to Mexico City.

Another of the vestiges of the Spanish colonial period in New Mexico is the many historic churches. One of, if not the, most famous is the San Francisco de Asis Mission Church south of Taos on the Ranchos de Taos Plaza. Dating to 1815, its traditional adobe mission-style built in the shape of a cross, is enshrined in a classic painting by Georgia O’Keefe, though it is said to be the most painted and photographed church in the United States.

Taos also has been a favorite of artists and their benefactors – drawn to the area’s natural beauty and its varied history and culture – for over 100 years. Visitors interested in this can tour numerous art museums and historic homes that illustrate how Taos became a magnet for creative people.

I heard a lot on this trip about the Taos Society of Artists and the role of this visionary group in establishing Taos – and northern New Mexico – as a destination for artists. You can immerse yourself in this period with visits to the Taos Art Museum-Fechin House, which is dedicated to the art of early twentieth century Taos, including a collection of paintings by the masters of the Taos Society of Artists; the residences of three of the six founders of the society: the Ernest Blumenschein Home and the Couse-Sharp Historic Site, including the homes and studios of E.I. Couse and Henry Sharp; and the Mabel Dodge Luhan House – Luhan, a wealthy New York socialite, was responsible for bringing many elite artists and other creative and political luminaries of the day to Taos in the 1920s.

I particularly enjoyed our time at the Millicent Rogers Museum. Rogers was the daughter of the co-founder of Standard Oil and the museum is dedicated to the history and culture of the southwest, specializing in Native American and Spanish colonial art. She moved to Taos in 1947 (only six years before she died at age 51) and became a patron of Native American artists and others of the Taos art community. Her expansive collection of self-designed Indian-made pieces is housed at the Museum. Particularly impressive was the pottery of Maria Martinez, the famed potter of the nearby San Ildefonso Pueblo. It’s a few miles north of town but well worth the trip.

Gustavo Victor Golez at Harwood Museum
Agnes Martin Gallery at Harwood Museum

In the heart of Taos, the Harwood Museum is easily accessible just a few blocks from the Plaza. The museum was especially impressive for its amazing collection of New Mexican art, including more from the Taos Society of Artists, Hispanic art, (some more than 100 years old), Modernist art of the 1940s, a contemporary collection from the 1970s, and the abstract art of Agnes Martin.

But I have toconfess; I was mostly anticipating the food. And I wasn’t disappointed. We enjoyed lunch at Doc Martin’s Restaurant, located in The Historic Taos Inn, a registered historic landmark. The restaurant has earned multiple awards for its “Regional New American” fare and its extensive wine list. I couldn’t pass up the chance to have a great New Mexico chile pepper and their relleno was most satisfying, especially with an Elevated IPA from La Cumbre Brewing of Albuquerque.

Speaking of beer, don’t miss Taos Mesa Brewing. Located a few miles outside of town, it is worth the trip for some really good craft beer, casual food, and entertainment. It has become a popular spot for music and events.

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Dinner one night was at El Meze Restaurant, widely considered one of the best in the area. It is located in a historic building and Chef Frederick Muller’s food is rooted in the region.  It combines local ingredients like mountain trout, chiles, and wild mushrooms with preparations, as Chef describes it, influenced by Moorish Spain, Native American and American traditions.

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Our other dinner was a real treat, as we cooked it ourselves at the Cooking Studio Taos. We were guided by Chef Chris Maher, an extensively awarded chef, including an appearance at the James Beard House and time working at New York’s Tavern on the Green under Drew Nieporent, who has since become on of the nation’s most highly regarded restaurant owners. The evening gained additional interest as Chef Maher revealed he was first a professional actor and continues to act to this day. He told us some fun stories about his Hollywood years but my main take away from the evening is the seafood in red chile sauce and rice with noodles. I can still tasty that dish. The green chile stew was really good, too.

With all these activities I was still intent on making time to visit some wineries and you should, too. I intentionally asked our hosts to carve out some time in the schedule for me to do just that.

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On one morning, I drove 25 miles south of Taos to the tasting room of Vivác Winery, conveniently located at the corner of Hwy 68 & Hwy 75. Apart from the wines, it is notable for its pleasant courtyard, scenery, availability of local arts and crafts and (especially) fresh, gourmet chocolates.

This is a small, family operation (as so many of them are in New Mexico) founded in 1998 by brothers Jesse and Chris Padberg and their wives Michelle and Liliana. In fact, Michelle had to miss my appointment because her son stayed home sick from school. But she arranged for me to meet with Sage who was operating the tasting room that day.

Just three miles up Highway 75 is La Chiripada Winery, another small, family-run operation. I was intrigued when I learned its home vineyards are at an elevation of 6100 ft., making it one of the highest commercial grape growing ventures in the world. Unfortunately the winery was closed when I was there and I ran out of time to visit their tasting room near the Taos Plaza. But the winery’s long history in the area (since 1977) and reputation for quality merit a visit the next time.

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I did get a chance, though, to visit the tasting room of Black Mesa Winery also just off the plaza. (The winery is 30 miles south of Taos.) Yet another family owned operation (by Jerry and Linda Burd since 2000), our group found it a fine respite from a day of museum and gallery visits. We happily tasted through a variety of wines knowledgeably poured by Laura Dunn, Assistant winemaker Craig Dunn’s wife.

Most of the wines I tasted at Vivác and Black Mesa were well made an enjoyable. I was particularly surprised and impressed with the Italian varietals, especially the Refosco at Vivác and the Montepulciano at Black Mesa. I also liked the Black Mesa’s aromatic, floral and spicy Malvasia Bianca (under their second label Alta Canyon Cellars). And I was surprised the Black Beauty, a chocolate Port-style wine was not cloying or overbearing like many such wines and delivered just the right touch of chocolate flavor. At Vivác, the Sangiovese, and Amante, their Port-style wine, also showed well. These wines and the wineries were a nice change of pace and are well worth a visit next time you go to Taos.

This visit gave me encouragement about the future of New Mexico’s wine industry. Both Laura and Michelle told me their wineries research and experiment to find varietals that will be successful in their micro climate. And Michelle said in an email response to my question about a signature variety that “New Mexico State University has a viticulturist working with the industry to do just that, find a ‘New Mexico variety’ but have not identified that golden goose as of yet.” She added that as of now Vivác is excited about the Riesling, Gruner Veltliner, Petit Verdot, and Pinot Noir form their experimental plots. I would contend Gruet Winery near Albuquerque has had so much success with its sparkling wines, for now at least, that has become the state’s signature wine. Still, I will be interested to follow the development of New Mexico wine and enjoy tasting the results.

 

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RESTORED UNION STATION SET TO BECOME DENVER’S PREMIER COMMUNITY AND TOURISM GENERATOR

Photo Credit: Sarah Welch

New York has Grand Central Terminal; Washington, D.C. has Union Station. Now, with a massive, just completed restoration and redevelopment, Denver’s historic Union Station is poised to become a similar an economic catalyst and community focal point for the Mile High City. With a focus on preserving the historically significant features of the 1914 Beaux-Arts building, it has now returned to its origins as a multimodal transit hub and local hospitality destination.

The building, which also marks its 100th anniversary this year, was instrumental in transforming Denver from a dusty frontier town to the largest city between Chicago and San Francisco. Over the years, though, thanks mostly to the growth of automobile culture (though, also air travel), the station’s significance declined. With this renovation also has come a repurposing.

Denver Union Station (DUS) still serves as a transportation center but this time it is primed to be the central locus of Denver’s emerging multimodal culture – bringing together bus termini and adding eight new tracks for AMTRAK and light rail and connecting to two free downtown shuttles. Soon, there also will be commuter rail and a dedicated line to Denver International Airport.

With its soaring 65-foot ceilings and arched windows, the old waiting room has been christened “The Great Hall.” Retail stores dot the periphery and include an outpost of the justly famous Tattered Cover Bookstore, Bloom flower home decor and jewelry shop, and 5 Green Boxes creative gifts and jewelry store. The Station also includes a wide variety of eating and drinking establishments that thankfully are of much higher pedigree than one has come to expect at such terminals.

The old ticket windows have been turned into The Terminal Bar, which features more than 30 Colorado craft beers and a huge outdoor patio. Looking down on the Great Hall from the second floor balcony is The Cooper Lounge, where a wide variety of cocktails are available along with an extensive wine list.

Within the Great Hall is a pretty amazing array of restaurants:

  • Stoic & Genuine, a seafood restaurant from Chef Jennifer Jasinski; (Top Chef, winner of the 2013 James Beard Award for Best Chef Southwest and owner of Rioja, Bistro Vendôme, and Euclid Hall in nearby Larimer Square)
  • Mercantile Dining & Provision, a full service restaurant and market from Chef Alex Seidel (of Fruition, a Food & Wine Best New Chef in 2010) for locally made foodstuffs, many of them produced at Fruition Farms, Seidel’s 10-acre sheep dairy and creamery in nearby Larkspur
  • The Kitchen Next Door Community Pub, an extension of the Boulder restaurant
  • Snooze, A.M. Eatery, another location of the popular breakfast and lunch joint
  • Fresh Exchange, fast casual place serving salads, sandwiches, and more
  • MilkBox Ice Creamery, located in the station’s classic former barber shop, featuring Denver’s Little Man Ice Cream
  • PigTrain Coffee, featuring Colorado’s Novo Coffee
  • ACME Burgers and Brats

Visitors also can relax on the Wynkoop Plaza, a refreshing outdoor space with 300 water jets in front of the station.

And adjacent to DUS just to its south, Portland-based Thirsty Lion Gastropub & Grill actually was the first eatery to open in the redevelopment. Thirsty Lion serves lunch, happy hour and dinner but its main attraction probably is the 52 beers on tap. Still, they have created a welcoming place where friends, families and area workers equally can enjoy the pub’s seasonal menu, beers, craft cocktails and 25 wines by the glass in the expansive, unique interior or large outdoor patio. I was a guest for lunch recently and enjoyed Bacon Wrapped BBQ Prawns, Copper River Salmon, and a chocolate brownie made with porter beer! All were well executed and delivered by a friendly waitstaff.

 The upper floors of the north and south wings of the building are occupied by The Crawford Hotel, named for Colorado’s legendary preservationist, Dana Crawford. The Crawford is a 112-room independent hotel, featuring three styles of uniquely decorated guest rooms that reflect the different eras of the building’s 100+ year history, including:
  • “Pullman” rooms modeled after the vintage luxury private railroad sleeping cars
  • “Classic” rooms with a contemporary twist on traditional design styles featuring tall ceilings and large windows
  • “Loft” rooms with exposed wood timbers, high vaulted ceilings and contemporary designs meant to resemble lofts in the adjacent Lower Downtown neighborhood
  • five suites, meeting space, and private event spaces

Named to the National Register of Historic Places, Denver Union Station expects to achieve LEED certification from the U.S. Green Building Council.

As the late, great historian Tony Judt* has written, during the century (about 1860-1960) that saw the rapid development of urban American, localities that embraced rail – which included embracing train stations – promoted the growth of community and civic culture as the lynchpin of a vibrant economy. Again, that changed after World War II with the spreading isolation of automobile culture and the associated growth of suburbia. Development and investment moved away from the city, especially the city center.

Nowadays, we are experiencing something of a “Back to the Future” moment. Once again, trains and train stations are being reinvested by farsighted cities that recognize their value as economic assets but also as generators of community and community character. With the reawakening of Denver Union Station, Denver is well positioned to reap these benefits as our residents, businesses and visitors “share (this) public space to common advantage.”

 

 

*For more of Tony Judt on cities and rail:

http://mostlyeconomics.wordpress.com/2011/03/01/the-importance-of-railways-in-urban-economics-and-society-development/

http://www.nybooks.com/articles/archives/2010/dec/23/glory-rails/?pagination=false

http://www.nybooks.com/articles/archives/2011/jan/13/bring-back-rails/?pagination=false

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BOSTON AND CAMBRIDGE SERVE UP UNPARALLELED HISTORY MATCHED WITH SIDES OF IMPRESSIVE FOOD & CULTURE

In the course of seeking out my family members for recommendations for our upcoming vacation, I naturally talked to my nephew who had lived in Boston for a few years while going to graduate school. He promptly told me “Boston is my favorite city in the world.” After a week in the most historic of American cities, I can see why he would have that opinion.

 

Actually, I should say “Boston area” because we spent some time in Cambridge and other nearby cities. I had been once before but not for this long and I was really looking forward to the trip, for three basic reasons: The history and culture, the food and the beer.

 

History, Culture and Art

 

I had taken the “Freedom Trail” before. It is a 2½-mile walking route that covers sixteen historically significant sites, many among the most important in our nations founding. It is a must for every first time visitor. This time I opted for a walking market tour of the North End, Boston’s “Little Italy,” offered to me by “Michele Topor’s Boston Food Tours.”

 

I was struck by how isolated this area seemed from the rest of the city, almost like another world … but a well preserved and fascinating world. To see the Old North Church and Paul Revere’s House makes one take pause and ponder our country’s beginnings. But this tour was mostly focused on the neighborhood’s Italian food and wine culture.

 

This has got to be one of the highest concentrations of food shops and restaurants anywhere. Our tour wound through the neighborhood visiting six representative stores. We began at Maria’s Pastry Shop, moved a few doors down to De Pasquale’s
 Homemade Pasta Shoppe, then sampled bread at Bricco Pantteria, coffee at Polcari’s, salami and prosciutto at Sulmona Meat Market, veggies at Alba Produce, and cheese at Monica’s Mercato. You get the idea. And these places are only the tip of the iceberg in this fascinating neighborhood.

 

Boston also is home to world-class art and theater. We found a good way to access some of the most important institutions was with the “Boston City Pass,” The pass affords general admission to five attractions – New England Aquarium, Museum Of Science, Skywalk Observatory, Museum Of Fine Arts, 
Harvard Museum Of Natural History, and The Old State House – at close to half the price of the individual admissions.

 

 

We were especially impressed with the collection at the Museum of Fine Arts, which included works by Monet, Degas, Pissarro, Renoir, Callebotte, Cézanne, and Van Gogh, not to mention an extensive antiquities collection and, during out visit, a special exhibition of Sixties fashion called “ Hippie Chic.” I also recommend everyone check out the Skywalk Observatory on the 50th floor of the Prudential Center (an office building and a giant indoor mall). Great 360° views of the city and surroundings, including Boston Harbor, the Boston Common and Fenway Park are enriched with displays – dubbed the Dreams of Freedom Immigration Museum – recounting important developments in the city’s history.

 

 

We also took the opportunity to attend a performance of the acclaimed Blue Man Group. BMG performs regularly at the historic, 175 year-old Charles Playhouse in Boston’s Theater District. The show featured innovative performances involving music, technology, and comedy. And it did not disappoint.

 

We also were glad we decided to venture down to the crowded waterfront to see the Institute for Contemporary Arts. It’s in an impressive setting with views of the Boston Harbor. We viewed works from the collection by Phillip Taffe, Paul Chan, Annette Lemieux, and Mickalene Thomas. And we were really impressed with the Barry McGee Exhibit. Barry McGee is “street artist” or “graffiti artist” (I’m not sure of the proper term). He uses found materials, leftover paint and other tools of the tagging trade to create explorations of urban life, in this case mostly the Mission District of San Francisco.

 

Dining – Boston

 

 

During our visit, we were hosted for a dinner at Osaka Japanese Sushi & Steakhouse in Brookline. Osaka is the only Japanese Steak House (Hibachi restaurant) in the area. Osaka offers diners two different but complimentary dining options: entertaining Hibachi grill show and quiet sushi rooms. Osaka also has extensive menus of traditional and creative Japanese cuisines.

 

We began with a rather impressive “Tomo” roll that was spicy, crunchy salmon and mango topped with seared salmon, white tuna, avocado, crispy rice, and honey wasabi sauce. It was almost a meal in itself. We also enjoyed a Shrimp Hibachi entrée and the Chefs Special char-grilled Chilean sea bass, marinated in sake sauce. Although it is a bit of a distance from the center of the action in Boston, if you find yourself in or near Brookline, Osaka is worth a stop.

 

 

We also appreciated a lunch invitation from The Palm. Located in the Financial District (of course), this outpost of the national upscale steak and seafood chain presented atmosphere to more than match its fare. It was amazing to learn The Palm began 87 years ago as an Italian restaurant in New York and is still family owned. The Palm restaurants may be most famous for the caricatures of local notables and celebrities on the walls but I’ve always appreciated the professional and attentive service. And the Boston restaurant lived up to the reputation. Here, everyone is made to feel special.

 

As for the food, my wife raved about her bountiful Jumbo Lump Crab Cake sandwich, while I opted for the Three Course Power Lunch. I started with a fresh Gazpacho; then savored a moist Cod special and finished with the signature Flourless Chocolate Cake. After all these years, The Palm continues to provide its guests with an all round fine dining experience.

 

For good food and a great view it would be hard to beat Legal Harborside. We were excited to be invited to Legal Seafoods’ new 20,000 square foot flagship property
 on the Boston Waterfront in the bustling Seaport District adjacent to the historic Boston Fish Pier (the oldest continuously working fish pier in the United States). Legal Sea Foods started as a fish market in Cambridge, MA in 1950 and, still family-owned, now operates a chain of restaurants along the Eastern Seaboard.

 

Legal Harborside really is an impressive building, with three floors featuring three distinct dining concepts. We ate on the first floor where the menu reflects the company’s heritage of casual fresh seafood favorites, an oyster bar and an old-fashioned fish market. From the extensive menu, we started with Baked Stuffed Artichokes with shrimp and scallop stuffing and while my wife couldn’t resist the fresh cold-water north Atlantic lobster, I chose a seasonal soft shell crab special. The second floor menu features a fine dining experience. And the third floor rooftop lounge actually has a retractable glass roof and walls making it usable year-round. Quite impressive.

 

Finally, we made time before the Blue Man Group to have a delightful brunch at Market by Jean Georges, a casual but elegant space in the W Hotel from the superstar New York chef.

 

Dining – Cambridge

 

We also made a point of venturing over to Cambridge a few times to sample the culinary offerings in this city best known for its institutions of higher learning. Next time we come to the area, we also will have visit its art and other cultural attractions. We had two fantastic meals in the Harvard Square commercial district.

 

 

And, as it turned out, both restaurants are run by chef’s who have been named Food & Wine Magazine Best New Chefs. At Harvest, a Harvard Square favorite since the 1970s, chef Mary Dumont continues a tradition of employing well regarded and award winning chefs, such as Barbara Lynch, Bob Kinkead and Lydia Shire. Dumont’s contemporary New England food proved I made the right choice for our dinner with a friend who lives in the area. I also was excited to finally eat at Rialto, Jody Adams’ restaurant of twenty years. I have been reading about this restaurant and Chef Adams for almost that long and was not disappointed. Her contemporary Italian food was impeccable, as were the New England–style dishes.

 

We also were lucky to find Catalyst in Kendall Square. Chef William Kovel, who has worked at some of Boston’s best restaurants, produces what probably is best described as modern American with Italian influences. We enjoyed brunch so much we went back for lunch. As a bonus, all of these restaurants work with local producers and use organic and sustainably produced products as much as possible.

 

Beer, Beer and More Beer

 

I cannot conclude an article about Boston and Cambridge without at least a few words on the beer culture. Although that beer culture has a long history, I submit its modern history begins in 1984 when Jim Koch established the Boston Beer Company. His Samuel Adams Boston Lager wasn’t the first contemporary craft brew (I’m thinking Anchor Steam beer has that credit.) but it did emulate its namesake and brew a revolution in the American beer industry. Today, it is the largest craft brewery in the U.S. and the fifth largest brewery by production.

 

We enjoyed an informative tour of the original brewery (located in the suburb of Jamaica Plain) made really special, as our guide was head brewer Jennifer Glanville. Even if your tour is not lead by the head brewer, a visit here is a must. There are numerous displays explaining how beer is made and Sam Adams beer history. And this location is now the company’s experimental brewery. You just might get to taste some of the new creations.

 

We also made time to venture back to the Seaport District for a visit to Harpoon Brewery, Boston’s other famous brewery. Harpoon is the ninth largest craft brewery in the U.S. and the sixteen largest by production but unfortunately is not available in Colorado. So, it was extra special to try a taster of six beers at the brewery’s Beer Hall. This is another place worth a visit.

 

Back in Cambridge, the Cambridge Brewing Company should be on any beer fan’s itinerary. Located in Kendall Square not far from the Catalyst, this place combines excellent beer with equally good food. I still remember the Cioppino I had. Proof beer and food pairing can be as satisfying as wine and food pairing.

 

In fact, the whole week was satisfying, even though there are about two dozen other restaurants I wanted to try and at least a dozen other sites I wanted to visit. Our only complaint for the whole week was the traffic. I thought it was bad in Denver. This was worse. Still, I can’t wait to go back.

 

 

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HOPE FAMILY SHOWCASES THE BEST OF PASO ROBLES

On a recent press trip to Paso Robles, sponsored by Hope Family Wines, our host Austin Hope set the tone for the visit when he said it was his goal to show us the diversity of the region, not just his wines. I welcomed this, not only because Hope’s wines have long been among my favorites but also because I had been to Paso twice before and was eager to see how the region has developed.

 

Paso Robles is the largest American Viticultural Area (AVA) in California. It is also the name of the main town of about 30,000, whose original name was El Paso del Robles (“Passage of the Oaks”). But, after my visits to the area, I think Paso could just be short for “passion.

Austin Hope oversees Hope Family Wines (www.hopefamilywines.com), a family-owned and -operated enterprise encompassing five brands: Liberty School, Treana, Candor, Austin Hope and Troublemaker wines. Austin’s father, Chuck Hope moved his family from the Central Valley to Paso in 1978 to plant wine grapes pioneering families of the region. After growing grapes and developing vineyards throughout the eighties and early nineties, the family became convinced Paso Robles was capable of producing world-class wines and began producing their own wines.

 

They joined a handful of other pioneering families who helped promote the region, not just as a source of fine quality grapes but also as a complete wine travel destination. Today, Austin and Hope Family Wines also epitomize Paso Robles’ reputation for being on the cutting edge, a reputation Austin has fostered by experimenting with Rhone-style blends and multiple vintage wines.

At a tour of the Huerhuero Vineyard, a longtime source for entry level Liberty School wines, on the Eastside of Paso Robles, and of the nearby Hope Family Wines winemaking facility, we learned from General Manager of Vineyard Operations Suhky Sran, Winemaker J.C. Diefenderfer, and Assistant Winemaker Samantha Taylor about the family’s role in developing vineyards throughout Paso Robles and how they work with over 50 family-owned vineyards to produce fruit for the Liberty School wines. The brand had bee created in the 1970’s by the Wagner family of Napa’s Caymus Vineyards and the Hopes collaborated with the Wagners since the late 1980’s to supply cabernet sauvignon grapes. He Hope’s then took over sole responsibility for the brand in 1996.

 

Today, there is a range of varietals that deliver consistent quality for the money and are regularly recognized as a “Good Values” and “Best Buys.” Look for Cabernet Sauvignon (2010, $14), Chardonnay wines (2011, $14), Pinot Noir ($20), and Liberty School Merlot ($16). The wines are made in a more restrained, food friendly style with forward fruit, good varietal character, and moderate alcohol.

 

The Hopes then established Treana Winery in 1996, to produce high-end Rhone-style blends from Paso Robles and Central Coast fruit. JC explained to us the name Treana symbolizes the trinity of natural elements – sun, soil and ocean – that make Paso Robles and the Central Coast exceptional for growing wine grapes.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

To give us a flavor for what this means, we toured the Mer Soleil Vineyard in the Santa Lucia Highlands near Salinas (our only stop outside of Paso Robles). This Monterey County-based vineyard is the long-time major source for Treana White, one of the first white Rhone-style blends and still one of the most highly regarded. The current vintage (2011, $23) is a blend of equal parts viognier and marsanne. Floral and tropical aromatics precede ripe pear and honey flavors combined with a lush texture and balancing acidity.

 

The Treana Red (2010, $45), which Austin considers his flagship wine, is a blend of cabernet sauvignon and syrah. It combines the depth and structure of a Cab, with the fullness and class of syrah. It is a perfect example of Austin’s willingness to work outside-the-box. Not many wineries were combining Rhone and Bordeaux blends when he created this wine almost twenty years ago.

The Hopes also own a vineyard on the Westside of Paso Robles planted primarily to syrah and grenache, with some mourvedre. Austin crafts wines inspired by the Northern Rhône Valley from this estate grown fruit. Known as the Hope Family Vineyard, it is located 20 miles east of the Pacific Ocean in the Templeton Gap district of Paso Robles. The site’s rocky soils of clay and limestone make it ideal for the Rhône varietals to which it is planted.

 

At this site, we were given a fascinating overview of the sustainable farming practices – certified by Sustainability in Practice (SIP), www.sipcertified.com – employed in the vineyard. Beth Vukmanic Lopez, Sustainability in Practice Certification Manager explained how for over 15 years, SIP has helped growers, vineyards and consumers rethink their approach to sustainability. As Beth said, SIP Certified sustainable vineyards and wines is about looking at the whole farm and considering “people, planet and profit.” In this sense, SIP is complementary to organic practices, not necessarily a replacement. Of course, a winery needs to make a profit to stay in business but that is closely tied to the quality of the wines, which depends on the quality of the grapes, which is connected to healthy vineyards. But SIP practices also consider the well being of the vineyard and winery workers, an often over looked factor. An important element to the success of the program is the third party certification SIP provides using independent auditors.

 

At the winery and tasting room on site, we enjoyed a barrel tasting of 2012 vintage Austin Hope Syrah and Grenache. Austin told us he uses traditional Côte-Rotie as his benchmark in making his syrah. But, being in California, he added he likes his wines to taste like the old world wines “but with a little bit more.”

This approach showed through the current vintages we tasted. The Syrah (2010, $42) displayed a balance of savory and fruit elements. Aromatic, intense and full-bodied, it also was elegant with pure berry fruit, licorice and earthy complexity. The Grenache (2010, $42) revealed characteristics of dried red fruits, earth and spices with good concentration, firm acidity and soft tannins.

 

The Hopes haven’t stopped to rest on these successful brands. Another label, “Candor” was created in 2008. These multi-vintage wines, a Merlot and Zinfandel, are crafted from specially selected fruit from a variety of Central Coast vineyards. They exhibit excellent varietal flavor at a reasonable price. We tasted the Zinfandel Lot 4 ($20) and Merlot Lot 3 ($20), which I found notable for their true varietal flavor and fresh, bright fruit.

 

Finally, the newest label in the Hope Family stable, “Troublemaker,” places Austin Hope’s creativity and willingness to challenge convention on full display. Troublemaker Blend 6 ($20) is a multi-vintage montage of 50% Syrah, 20% Grenache, 10% Mourvèdre, 10% Zinfandel and 10% Petite Sirah. Its profile reflected its name with brash fruit and lively texture.

While it was great to learn about all the Hope wines, the trip was made really special by the inclusion of visits to some of Paso Robles most notable artisan producers and restaurants.

 

Villa Creek (www.villacreek.com) has long been a destination restaurant for Paso Robles.

Artisan (www.artisanpasorobles.com) grows some of its ingredients at a local organic farm and showcased a distinctive wine on tap program.

Thomas Hill Organics (www.thomashillorganics.com) is a casual market-bistro that serves spectacularly fresh food, not surprising since most of it comes from their own organic farm.

Il Cortile Ristorante (www.ilcortileristorante.com) features exceptional homemade pastas, fresh seafood, and top-quality meats.

 

All of the restaurants craft dishes as much as possible from seasonal, locally grown ingredients from small producers, much of it organically or sustainably farmed. At these restaurants, farm-to-table is not just a marketing slogan. They live it every day. I will say without hesitation these places are as good as the best restaurants in any city in the nation.

 

And as if that wasn’t enough, to give us a sampling of the top quality artisan products being produced in the area we also toured two special places.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

A visit to the Kiler Ridge Olive Farm (http://kilerridge.com) with founders Audrey Burnam & Gregg Bone was eye opening. Although it is just minutes from downtown Paso Robles the hilly, picturesque location transports visitors to another location, specifically Italy. Kiler Ridge uses sustainable farming practices and currently maintains 2,500 olive trees – varieties originating from Italy and Sicily.

 

Gregg and Audrey were gracious hosts. Gregg provided us with an extensive overview of his production process and explained in amazing detail why most of the “extra virgin” olive oil we buy in the supermarket isn’t really, regardless of what’s on the label.

 

It was particularly enlightening to me to actually taste the difference. The Kiler Ridge oils were noticeably fresher and displayed distinct grassy and peppery flavors. Greg explained this is because his oils have much higher polyphenol content – he even said, “I’m a polyphenol producer, not an olive oil producer.” Polyphenols are strong antioxidants with many health benefits. Bottom line, though, the oils were delicious but admittedly might be an acquired taste for some consumers used to blander commercial oils.

 

And they presented us with the most eye opening taste sensation I have hade in years: vanilla ice cream topped with sea salt, my choice of Kiler Ridge olive oil and balsamic syrup. All I can say is “wow!” It was delicious with all the savory and sweet elements melding together beautifully.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We also took a refreshing break from winetasting for a tour of the Firestone Walker Brewery (www.firestonebeer.com) with Brewmaster Matt Brynildson. Firestone Walker (named for owners Adam Firestone and David Walker) has been brewing since 1996 but moved from Santa Barbara to Paso Robles in 2001. Firestone Walker and Brewmaster Brynildson are one of the nation’s most awarded breweries and are particularly notable for their use of barrel fermentation for several of their ales.

 

I wholeheartedly recommend the next time you are considering a vacation to wine country, make Paso Robles your destination. The number of wineries has grown from about forty 25 years ago to over 200 (mostly small and family-owned) today. But that is only the beginning of this region’s story. Passionate, dedicated artisan producers with a commitment to sustainability are to be found everywhere in the region.

 

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FOOD & WINE MAGAZINE BRINGS THE WORLD OF WINE TO ASPEN

While the cooking demonstrations and wine seminars are the foundation of the Food & Wine Classic in Aspen, another hallmark of the Classic is all the receptions, parties, and other special events. This year was no exception. I had so many invitations, I just couldn’t make them all … and believe me I tried.

 

But I still had many opportunities to discover new wines and meet new winemakers. For me, one of the best things about the Classic is the opportunity it presents to meet winemakers and winery owners and to taste wines from producers whom I seldom or never get a chance to try.

For instance, I had a chance to sit down with Michael Martini, the third generation winemaker for the Louis M. Martini Winery in the Napa Valley. Michael, who has been the winemaker for this family (a family that has an over 100 year old history of winemaking in California) since 1977, was anxious to tell me about (and have me taste) his wines. Mariola Varona Bayola, the Export Manager for Bodegas Martin Codax, also joined us. Martín Códax is a 27 year old Spanish winery that is best known for its Albariño. Confused that representatives of a California winery and a Spanish winery both were at this meeting? Don’t be, both are now owned by the Gallo family. And both were delightful lunch companions. And their wines – Martini Cabs and Codax Albariño – were equally enjoyable.

 

It was a treat to be able to attend a reserve tasting moderated by Master Sommelier Richard Betts on “The Extraordinary Wines of California’s Sine Qua Non.” Now, if you have never heard of Sine Qua Non, don’t worry. That just means you are not a wine geek. Sine Qua Non is a “cult wine” among the cult wines. You can only buy them if you first get on their mailing list and then wait only God knows how long to get in. Maybe you can find one on a restaurant wine list but it probably will cost hundreds of dollars. This is what is special about these reserve tasting’s. They offer rare opportunities to taste equally rare and extraordinary wines.

All of the wines we tasted reflected differing blends of various Rhone varietals – the reds presented different expressions of syrah and grenache, while the whites showed off combinations of roussanne, viognier, and chardonnay. My key take away from the tasting is that the wines definitely lived up to their hype. First and foremost, all six wines showed off beautiful fruit. The use of oak showed in balance with the depth of fruit and acidity.

 

It’s a ritual every year to wander the Grand Tasting Tent, where producers from all over the world display their wares, in the hopes of making new discoveries. As with previous years, I ended up on a sort of world tour. I don’t have room to list all the wines tasted but here are a few highlights.

Although Australia is best known for many great Shiraz, I’m glad I was persuaded to take the road less traveled and try some really outstanding Cabernet Sauvignon and Pinot Noir. From Penley Estate, a highly regarded winery in the Coonawarra region of South Australia, I enjoyed the “Phoenix” and Reserve Cabs and chatting with Proprietor/Chief Winemaker Kym Tolley. From the Yarra Valley region of Victoria, I really was impressed with Pinot Noirs from Giant Steps and Innocent Bystander, partly because one usually doesn’t think of great Pinot Noir from Australia but also because Owner/Winemaker Phil Sexton was pouring and explaining the wines. Before leaving Australia, I found one more wine I also highly recommend: the Vasse Felix “Heytesbury” Cabernet Sauvignon from the Margaret river region of Southwestern Australia.

 

Representing Portugal, the Esporão Assobio, which is made predominantly from touriga nacional, tinta roriz and touriga franca grapes, is a distinguished single vineyard red worthy of any serious wine drinker. If you think the only Portugal wine worth drinking is Port (and Port is great stuff), think again. There is a lot of great Portuguese dry table wine and Assobio is one of the best.

 

Wines from Spain for many years has hosted a whole tent as a separate location within the Grand Tasting park and it is always a great place to hunt for new wines. This year I was especially impressed with the wines at the “Drink Ribera” (that’s Ribera del Duero, one of Spain’s most important regions). My favorites were the Bodegas Montecastro, from high altitude vineyards, and Alejandro Fernandez Tinto Pesquera, from a pioneer of modern Spanish wine. Both are excellent representations of tempranillo, Spain’s most distinguished grape.

 

I finished my tour in the tent tasting several California wines, with the highlights being the following, all really outstanding, wines:

 

  • 2011 Franciscan Cuvée Sauvage Chardonnay
  • 2009 Robert Mondavi Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve
  • 2009 Simi Cabernet Sauvignon Landslide Vineyard
  • 2009 Franciscan Magnificat (Bordeaux-style blend)
  • 2009 Mt. Veeder Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve
  • 2010 Ravenswood Zinfandel Belloni Vineyard

As for the receptions, the annual Wines from Spain/Jose Andres Spanish Barbecue was another stunner. Hosted at an amazing trophy home/mansion in the mountains above the Buttermilk ski area, there were again delectable grilled meats and shrimp, tasty charcuterie, and a wonderful array of cheeses. Of course, there also were some excellent wines. I was impressed enough with three wines – Bodegas Roda Rioja  “Roda 1,” Bodegas Muga Rioja “Torre Muga,” and Bodegas Emilio Moro Ribera del Duero “C21 Malabrigo” – to actually write them down amid all the happy chaos.

But I was especially impressed this year with the reception for the “Chef’s Club by Food & Wine” restaurant. This is a special restaurant within the St. Regis hotel that features a rotating lineup of Food & Wine Best New Chefs doing the cooking. What was really cool was the collection of fine Colorado artisan producers presenting their creations in the courtyard. Kudos to Continental Sausage (Denver), Licious Organics (Boulder), Linger restaurant (Denver), Quixotic Tilapia Farm (Canon City), Magpies (Eagle), Aero Farm (Lakewood), Outrageous Gluten-Free Baking (Denver), Jumpin’ Good Goat Dairy (Buena Vista), Etalia Gluten-Free Breads (Boulder), Raquelitas Tortillas (Denver), and

Esoteric Foods “Zuke” Pickled Products (Boulder).

 

Needless to say, it was another year of discovery at the Food & Wine Classic in Aspen. I already can’t wait for next year.

 

 

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SMITHSONIAN CHRONICLES TRANSFORMATION OF AMERICAN FOOD & WINE

Volumes have been written about the transformations that occurred in American society in the last half of the Twentieth Century. Certainly, no arena of American society has seen more change since the end of World War II than that of food production and consumption.

 

A new exhibit, “Food: Transforming the American Table,” which opened at the Smithsonian National Museum of American History last November, really brings these changes to life in a unique and effective way. I had a chance to view the exhibit recently and heartily recommend you visit it, too.

Fourteen years in the making, co-curator of the exhibit, Paula Johnson told me this first major Smithsonian exhibition on food history is intended to illuminate the transformation of how food is produced, how we eat, and what we eat. Ms. Johnson also wanted to make sure I noted she made a conscious decision to include a section on wine in recognition of its growing significance in American food culture and the increasing acceptance of its place at the American table. I will touch on this later in this column and will go into greater detail about the wine section, including my subsequent interview with winemaker Warren Winiarski (a critical figure in American wine history), in a future article.

Courtesy of Smithsonian

The exhibit employs a variety of displays to illustrate the post-war changes. It begins with “Julia’s Kitchen.” This literally is the kitchen from Julia Child’s Cambridge, MA home with original table, appliances, and utensils. It was quite remarkable to peer through the glass and witness this iconic space.

Courtesy of Smithsonian

“New and Improved” – a display highlighting the introduction of various new scientific approaches to farming, processing and distribution – recalls various developments in what I would call the industrialization of food. Even as science and technology (most notably in the form of chemical fertilizers and pesticides) produced higher yields, more certainty and lower costs in the fields, new appliances and access to more energy changed the way people prepared meals.

 Viewing the display, I also got a sense of how all this intersected with the American myth of “progress” and how advertising slogans like “better living through chemistry” were deployed in an industry offensive to convince the American people (who had just survived the Great Depression and World War II) the changes would always make life better. Of course, it wasn’t all good news. A section of the display titled “A System for Abundance” tells a story of the difficult, dangerous lives of the workers in the field.

Courtesy of Smithsonian

Curator Johnson aptly characterized “Resetting the Table” as illustrating the complementary and contradictory trends of the time – showing how immigrants, activists, and global travelers all challenged what had become convention. The display first takes a look at the rise of ethnic food and its connection to the country’s history as a nation of immigrants. To me it illustrates an insight into how immigrants adapted to their new environment and how those of us already here have benefited from a broadening of our exposure to previously unfamiliar foods, cultures and people.

 

This section also chronicles the rise of alternative visions of American food culture that emerged in the 1960’s and 1970’s – often associated with what has been labeled the “counterculture” and “back-to-the-land” movements – and focused on small scale, organic production. Being reminded of the “Do It Yourself” advice of Mother Earth News it becomes clear these alternatives were (and are) not anti-science, as often has been charged. Rather, they reflected a different approach to science – one that used new discoveries to assist nature, not subjugate or appropriate it. And viewing copies of fondly remembered books like Dick Gregory’s Natural Diet for Folks Who Eat and the Moosewood Cookbook I realized also these were a call to recover an appreciation of quality, an assertion that food can taste good and be good for you.

While millions of Americans were embracing the new culture of convenience and abundance, these alternative voices drew attention to the trade offs and the long-term effects of mass production (industrial, large-scale, centralized) and mass consumption (consumerism, planned obsolescence, disposable): impacts on the environment, individual health and workers.

Courtesy of Smithsonian

This period also was a time of great transformation in wine. The “Wine for the Table” section calls attention to the complicated relationship this country has had with alcohol – specifically, in this case, fermented grape juice. Much has been made over the years of Thomas Jefferson’s affinity for wine; and even more has been written about the origins and legacy (and reality) of Prohibition.

 

Most people today still probably don’t realize wine grapes have been cultivated since the 1700’s on the East Coast; and probably only a few more realize the boom in California winegrowing that began about the mid-1800’s. Not surprisingly, in 1950, wine was mostly an afterthought for most Americans. Julia Child deserves credit here as well for introducing to the public the European tradition of drinking wine with food.


Then, in the 1960’s and 1970’s, a group of truly visionary California winemakers (many of whom benefited from consultation with the great winemaker André Tchelistcheff) transformed the industry, not only in California but – with a little help from the famous “Paris Tasting of 1976” – throughout the U.S. and really, over the following decades, the whole world.

 

The exhibit highlights contributions from now icons of the California wine industry, such as Robert Mondavi, who left his family’s winery to start his own winery and became arguably the greatest ambassador of California wine. And Miljenko “Mike” Grgich at Chateau Montelina and Warren Winiarski at Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars – the winners of the 1976 tasting – are well represented. These and others, of course, emulated French winemaking practices like using small oak barrels, along with what I’ll call modern winemaking techniques like using stainless steel tanks and temperature-controlled fermentation to vastly increase quality.

Display highlighting heritage of California Zinfandel

Actually, the transformation of wine after 1950 reflects many of the same forces as with food – the intersection of agriculture with business with marketing with culture. At the same time as these smaller producers were showing the world California could match European quality, large-scale wine production (most notably the Gallo family – shown on the cover of a 1972 issue of Time) emerged to introduce wine to the American public in a volume and at a price most could enjoy on a daily basis.

 

Over the last two decades especially, there has been a growing interest in organic and other forms of sustainable agricultural and cellar practices. Sometimes it seems like every winery large and small is touting its efforts in this regard. The key here, as Mr. Winiarski pointed out to me, seems to be to find ways to harness science, technology and cultural forces, while retaining the lessons of tradition.

Courtesy of Smithsonian

Finally, in what I think was a brilliant idea, they have included what they call the “Open Table” in the middle of the exhibit.  It is a place where “(v)isitors will have the opportunity to take a seat at a large, communal table and engage in conversation about a wide range of food-related issues and topics.” Here, the museum is inviting visitors to go beyond just being passive viewers of the exhibition. They are saying eating food and drinking wine are essentially social, convivial activities (not to mention economic and political activities). Visitors are encouraged to discuss the themes of the exhibit and even examine how this history has influenced each of our own eating and drinking choices.

 

As I have pondered this fascinating exhibit, it has occurred to me the unwritten theme could be “Back to the Future.” The natural food movement that began in the 1960’s has evolved and grown parallel to the growth of industrial food and the current renewed emphasis on local, small scale production grows in significance alongside the “Big Ag” of multinational corporations that for their part still dominate.

 

The 2000’s especially have seen a renewed commitment to authentic food and wine, with more emphasis on organic, local and small-scale production. The battles between these often opposing forces are heating up over the food world’s role in climate change and the pros and cons of GMOs. We even may be in the midst of another period of transformation. Maybe the Smithsonian should consider making the exhibit permanent and plan to add more years.

 

The exhibit will run indefinitely, and more information can be found at http://americanhistory.si.edu or by calling the public line at (202) 633-1000.

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POPULAR DENVER AREA COOKING SCHOOL MOVES TO NEW DIGS, ADDS NEW PROGRAM

I very much enjoyed learning about Kitchen Table Cooking School & Colorado Culinary Academy in Greenwood Village last night. This is an impressive operation with great chefs.

Owner Yvonne Haag had just moved the five-year-old cooking school, along with its Espressolé Caffe (including all house made pastries) to new digs. The new location enjoys impressive new, state-of-the-art kitchens. The new space also will also be home to a brand-new professional culinary school, Colorado Culinary Academy (CCA). The Academy will offer a 12-week, affordable, accelerated – yet comprehensive – professional culinary program, designed so students can put their culinary education to work right away, without the financial burden of a longer, more expensive program.

 

Cooked up as it were by Ms. Haag and co-owner Chef Andy Floyd. Haag and Floyd explained the academy is designed to provide affordable, accelerated training for those seeking a career in the culinary industry. Class size will be kept small so that each student receives individualized instruction, cooks the whole menu each day, and learns every technique on the agenda.

 

Their intent is for each graduate to possess the skills to find an entry-level job by the end of the program. What’s different here is the program is accelerated, comprehensive and affordable.  Accelerated means a full-time, 12-week comprehensive professional culinary training program covering the basic techniques, principles and theories of savory cooking with an overview of classic pastry items mandatory for every entry-level cook. Affordable means $15,000 tuition.

 

For more information go to: http://www.coloradoculinaryacademy.org/

 

Oh, and the food at the reption was excellent!

 

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Watch the Live Webcast with TGIC’s Shawn Loggins at the Food & Wine Classic

I enjoyed the tasting with TGIC’s Shawn Loggins (VP, Sales & Marketing) Very impressive new Malbecs from Argentina’s Kaiken and Syrahs from Star Angel of Paso Robles. Watch and learn, take notes, and if you have it, open a bottle of one of these wines, and taste along.
Tweet your comments @peoplespalate or @TGICImporters
Tune in http://tgicimporters.com/tgics-live-webinar-from-the-aspen-food-and-wine-classic/ and be part of the Aspen Food and Wine Classic festivities virtually!
· Kaiken Corte 2008
· Kaiken Mai 2007
· Star Angel “Aurelio’s Selection” 2008
· Star Angel Syrah 2008
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WASHINGTON, D.C. DISHES UP, YES, POLITICS BUT ALSO GOOD FOOD AND DRINK

This article originally was written for Out Front Colorado. Featured image courtesy of Destination D.C.

Planning a trip to our nation’s capitol, maybe to lobby for repeal of the deceptively named “Defense of Marriage Act” or to support passage of the Employment Non-Discrimination Act” or to encourage the Joint Chiefs to expedite implementation of the repeal of “Don’t Ask, Don’t Tell?” After a day of political activism, you’re going to need sustenance and something to quench your thirst. I’ve traveled to D.C. at least once each of the last five years – just got back from my most recent trip – and can help guide you to some worthy choices.

The Dupont Circle neighborhood has been the center of the city’s GLBT community since the 1970s. You’ll find an impressive mix of restaurants, bistros, and bars boutiques, shops, hotels, B&BS, galleries and museums. I (and many others) have especially enjoyed the New England-style seafood at Jamie Leeds’ Hank’s Oyster Bar, as it has become one of the neighborhood’s most popular establishments.

On my most recent trip, my disappointment one day in finding that Café Green (which  specializes in vegetarian food) was closed for the lunch turned to  culinary joy with the  lunch I had at Pizzeria Paradiso. My 8-inch special served up  a toasty, crispy crust  slathered with olive paste topped with cherry tomatoes,  Kalamata olives, basil, and  Parmesan, and hedonistically finished with Prisciutto  di Parma. It was admirably  accompanied by a pint of New Holland’s “The Poet”   Oatmeal Stout.

On this trip, though, I spent most of my time exploring the offerings in the Penn Quarter, an area of downtown not far from Union Station, Chinatown and Capitol Hill that has seen a transformation into one of the city’s most talked-about restaurant destinations. The neighborhood has long been essentially the city’s theater district. It also has become an entertainment center with numerous clubs, the sports arena, and numerous world-class museums.

I ate breakfast and dinner here all three days I was in town. Breakfast was coffee and pastries alternating at Firehook Bakery and Chinatown Coffee Company.

Dinner the first night was at celebrity chef José Andrés’ Jaleo. This trend-setting tapas restaurant did not disappoint. I enjoyed a traditional fisherman’s “sopa,” a wild mushroom studded “arroz,” and homemade “chorizo,” all washed down with a  satisfying Ludovicus Terra Alta (a fine blend of garnacha, tempranillo and syrah). I  was particularly impressed with the high quality olive oil served with bread to start  the meal.

For my second dinner, I decided to indulge both the “winie” and the “foodie” in mewith a meal  at the popularwine bar Proof. They have great looking charcuterie and cheese menus but I  went right to the main menu. My garlicky escarole salad, and roast organic chicken breast  with mushrooms, rapini and polenta were soul satisfying. My wines were pricey but very good  – a crisp, refreshing Gran Cardiel Verdejo for my aperitif and a Bergstrom Cumberland Reserve Pinot Noir with thdentrée.

My last dinner was at the elegant Ristorante Tosca. I settled on the popular pre-theater menu (something many of the restaurants in the Penn Quarter offer, though none offer as many choices as Tosca) as a more affordable way to sample the menu. As a bonus, ten percent of the price is donated to “Food and Friends,” an organization that delivers meals and groceries to people living with HIV/AIDS and other life-threatening illnesses. I enjoyed whole-wheat square spaghetti, sea bass with spinach and balsamic syrup, and finished with bites of three cheeses. The wines, a melony Kris Pinot Grigio and a full-bodied, rich Novelli Montefalco Rosso (sangiovese, sagrantino, merlot, cabernet sauvignon), were good companions.

After a morning visiting several of Colorado’s Congressional offices, I took an opportunity to explore Capitol Hill along Pennsylvania Avenue Southeast. The area has long been a social and residential center for DC’s gay and lesbian community. I walked to what many consider Capitol Hill’s “town hall” – Eastern Market, the oldest operating public market in the city (since 1873!). It is a great place to stock up on fresh produce, meats, flowers, baked goods and unique arts and crafts. I enjoyed a simple but juicy chicken sandwich at Market Lunch. Nearby Eighth Street SE, with its concentration of shops, restaurants and bars (including Phase 1, the nation’s oldest lesbian bar) is a center for alternative nightlife.

On my way back to the Capitol for more meetings, I couldn’t resist stopping by Peregrine Espresso for a jolt, followed by a stop at Good Stuff Eatery. I passed on a gourmet burger, instead enjoying excellent hand cut fries.

There are many more tantalizing options in the Capitol city. For valuable travel advice, go to the Destination D.C. website. Whether you are traveling for business, politics, culture or entertainment, Washington, D.C. is a special travel destination.

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Visit Santa Fe for Great Food (but Don’t Forget Albuquerque)

If cities have a soul, Santa Fe’s soul emanates from its food, a synthesis of its native and Spanish heritage with Western U.S. influences and more recently an appreciation of the variety of the world’s cuisines and the importance of the local, organic ethic. My wife and I have visited Santa Fe at least once a year for the past 22 years (the last nine with our son). We also have made excursions to Taos and Albuquerque but it is Santa Fe that draws us each year. We are well aware of its reputation as an ultra chic, elitist enclave but we ignore that aspect of the city when we visit to focus on the history and culture.

And most importantly the food. As long as we have been coming to this special place, I am impressed at how many restaurants from those early days are still around. There have been some lamentable closures, though, the most recent of which was the shuttering of Cloud Cliff Bakery, Cafe and Art Space. Stopping by Cloud Cliff for breakfast on our last day before heading home had become a tradition. I always looked forward to a dose of their organic food, eclectic art and progressive politics to complete our trip.

The disappointment of losing Cloud Cliff was balanced on this weekend trip by our successful strategy of trying out restaurants we had never been to before. Some of these had been around a while but for some reason we just hadn’t made our way to them until now. Maria’s New Mexican Kitchen (www.marias-santafe.com) is a Santa Fe icon, having served its popular menu of New Mexican standards under its current ownership for 23 years. We went for lunch and enjoyed our meal so much we wondered why it took us so long to get there. By the way, I had a beer with my lunch but everything I read says their margaritas are legendary. For dinner our first night we ate at Andiamo (www.andiamoonline.com) in the Railyard District. I had read good things about this place for several years and we were glad we finally made it in. This is serious Italian food at reasonable prices. Located in a cozy house, this is an elegant, yet casual restaurant well worth a visit. For breakfast the next day, we stopped by Counter Culture (no website), whose name is an apt double entendre for this funky, casual place. We enjoyed our breakfast: pancakes, burrito, eggs, pastries and really good coffee. But looking at the extensive list of sandwiches on the lunch menu, I made a mental note that this would be a lunch stop next year.

rich mauro the peoples palate

But I have to say the highlight of the trip was our dinner at La Boca, (www.labocasantafe.com) which is located just a couple of blocks north of the Plaza. The place, as it happens, recently had been named the city?s best new restaurant by several publications. La Boca essentially is a tapas restaurant, which was perfect for us because we like to try a variety of items when we dine, especially at a restaurant for the first time. The prices were reasonable, though you must be careful because those little dishes can add up just like at a sushi restaurant. The only down side is that the place is very small, even a little cramped.

This year, we decided to spend our last day in Albuquerque. In addition to taking our son to the impressive Museum of Natural History and Science, we enjoyed three very good meals. For dinner Friday night, we went to the Nob Hill Bar & Grill. This place was the perfect combination for us: a lively neighborhood bar and restaurant that serves very good food. No question this is a hip, hopping place ? and it deserve to be, as much for its contemporary take on comfort foods, as for its inviting atmosphere. The next morning we went back to the Nob Hill neighborhood for breakfast at the Flying Start Cafe. The draw was hearty entrees, an extensive array of baked goods, and strong coffee, not to mention a great selection of magazines. As a bonus, the restaurant (and its seven sibling restaurants and related Satellite coffeehouses) prides itself on using organic ingredients whenever possible and sourcing as many products as possible from local producers. If I lived in Albuquerque, I’m sure I’d be at this place at least three or four times a week. Before we made our way back to Denver that afternoon, we stopped at the Gold Street Caffe in downtown for a quick lunch. We found a small but friendly and nicely appointed restaurant. Our sandwiches were large, well made and tasty; a fine send off before we headed home.

I have long been of the opinion that Santa Fe is one of the best dining cities in the country. First, the city has its own unique cuisine, a blend of Spanish, Mexican and Native American influences, but also has great restaurants serving a wide variety of world cuisines. Our recent trip confirmed this once again. And the last day of our trip gave us some hints that Albuquerque is worth more attention in the future.