Throughout most of the year I’m pretty much an “ABC” guy (Anything but Cabernet or Chardonnay). I’m not militant about it mind you. I just appreciate diversity, adventure. I find trying different wines from different grapes, from different regions educational … and exciting. And there is so much out there to try.
But, for some reason, when the holidays come around, I turn all traditional and look for a top notch California Cabernet Sauvignon to give as gives to family and friends. If you are at all like me in this regard, you should appreciate the following list. For those of you who are reading this and saying, “What a cop out,” you have to acknowledge that great California Cab’s (and I include in this various blends) are fine wines in their own right and as a bonus carry a certaincaché that carries extra value for special occasion. And maybe next year I’ll be more creative.
The following wines are listed in order of my preference but all are recommended. I also provide information about the wine’s style to help you choose.
2009 Francis Ford Coppola Winery “Eleanor” ($50)
This wine is produced in honor of Coppola’s wife, with the grapes coming from the esttate’s vineyards in Sonoma (72 percent) and Napa (28 percent). Winemaker Corey Beck has blended Syrah (54 percent) and Cabernet Sauvignon (46 percent) into a rich, and luscious but supple wine. It shows ripe, mouthfilling fruit of currants, raspberries and black cherries, all layered with notes of black pepper, earth, and herbs. While it is full flavored and well structured, it also is the essence of balance, finishing with fine-grained tannins. This wine is enjoyable now but should develop for 10-15 years.
2009 Caymus Napa Valley ($68)
Caymus has been one of California’s premier Cabernet producers for nearlyforty years. The Wagnerfamily’s Special Selection is almost always near the top of critic’s lists and the Napa Valley bottling isn’t far behind. This vintage is flashy and opulent, supple and luxurious, with a creamy texture. It exhibits succulent flavors of dark berries, currants and cassis. Yet it has a solid structure that maintains a certain elegance. I sense added complexity in touches of mocha, tobacco, espresso and underbrush. Delicious to drink now and over the next 10 years.
2008 Frank Family Napa Valley ($50)
This winery, founded by long time Hollywood executive Rich Frank and Connie Frank twenty years ago, just seems to get better with each successive vintage. Todd Graff, who has been the winemaker since the beginning, has crafted a big, rich, ripe wine loaded with delectable plum, currant and blackberry fruit accented nicely with oak, herbal and tobacco notes. But the wine harmonizes all this in a supple texture and elegant finish. It can be enjoyed now and for another ten years.
2008 Rodney Strong “Symmetry” Alexander Valley ($55) 
This winery has been a Sonoma County pioneer since 1959 and arguably is making its best wines ever. Tom Klein, whose family has owned the winery since 1989, and Rick Sayre, who has been the winemaker since 1979, have continued this pioneering approach to sustainability, where they have taken these practices farther than almost any winery in California – including solar powered electricity and getting certified carbon neutral. Symmetry is a classic Bordeaux-style blend dominated by 79% cabernet sauvignon. This wine definitely falls into the big, ripe and rich category. It fills the mouth with blackberry, blueberry, plum, cassis, and currant fruit. Layers of complexity emerge from woodsy, meaty, mineral, and cedar notes. The dense fruit and considerable tannins call for lengthy aging (5-15 years) but suggest it will be well worth the wait.
2008 Hess Collection 19 Block Cuvee Mt. Veeder ($36)
This is another in a string of recent successes for what is essentially a Bordeaux-style blend of 69 percent cabernet sauvignon with malbec, syrah, merlot and petit verdot. It is a good example of the owner (Swiss businessman Donald Hess’ (who founded the winery in 1978) commitment to mountain grown fruit and sustainable practices. The wine shows the expected concentrated fruit – in this case blackberry and black currant. However, it also displays a softer texture than expected from high altitude grapes. Herbal, wood and forest notes add complexity, while friendly tannins encourage short-term drinking (bit it will hold for ten plus years.
2008 Rodney Strong Reserve Alexander’s Valley ($45)
This is another Rodney Strong wine packed full of ripe dark fruits. Savory notes add complexity, as do hints of herbs, licorice, chocolate and oak. The wine has such juicy flavors and well-mannered tannins, it seems to beg for early drinking but should reward patience for a good ten years.
2008 Grgich Hills Napa Valley Estate Grown ($60)
Now here’s a wine made in … what shall I call it? The traditional style? The Old World style? It certainly is not what has come to be known as the “fruit bomb” overblown Napa style of recent years. Under the direction of Mike Grgich, who has been making wine in Napa for over fifty years, the winery has seen its estate vineyards certified organic and biodynamic and converted its electricity to solar power. But the wines remain true the higher acid, elegant style. This wine clearly presents strong tannins but they frame deep, pure blackberry, cherry and currant fruit. There also are noticeable woodsy, savory notes of tobacco, spice and licorice. Enjoyable now, I think it will be better in five years and will drink well at least another ten.
2009 Priest Ranch Somerston Vineyards Napa Valley ($48)
Somerston Vineyards in the far eastern reaches of the Napa Valley has been a working ranch since 1847, which has included grape growing for only about the last forty. A few years ago, realizing the quality of the fruit, the current owners decided to make their own wine. With this vintage, winemaker Craig Becker has crafted another fine example of mountain grown fruit. It is a big, rich, powerful style where ripe berries are joined with complex notes of loam, earth, leather, and licorice. It all rides on a plush texture and ends with soft, though firm tannins. It’s friendly enough to drink now but might be even better in five and should evolve for another decade.
2008 Dry Creek Vineyard The Mariner Dry Creek Valley ($40)
In 1972, David Stare was one of the pioneers of the rebirth of winemaking in the Dry Creek Valley. While the valley and Dry Creek Vineyard are best known for Zinfandel, a fair amount of high quality cabernet sauvignon –based wines also are produced. The Mariner is the winery’s Bordeaux-style blend (42% cabernet sauvignon, 35% merlot, with the rest petit verdot, malbec and cabernet franc). This vintage impresses for its solid structure framing rich dark fruits and overlayed with dried herbs, wood and tobacco notes. It is quite dry. Drink over the next decade.
2009 Round Pond Estate Rutherford ($50)
Located in the heart of the coveted cabernet cornucopia that is the Rutherford appellation of the Napa Valley, the MacDonnell family has been growing grapes here since the early 1980’s. Recently, they decided to make their own wine from their highly sought after grapes. This Estate wine is flashy, rich, and supple. Abundant, sweet blackberry and currant fruit is wrapped in generous oak and shows hints of cocoa. The lush palate gains chewy density in the finish. Give it a couple of years to allow the fruit and tannin to meld; then enjoy it over the next decade.
2008 Newton The Puzzle Spring Mountain District ($80)
This winery has occupied the upper echelons of Napa’s elite since it was established 35 years ago. It’s wines are notable for their origins in high altitude vineyards in the Spring Mountain District on the west side of the Napa Valley and the use of indigenous yeast in fermentation and their bottling without filtration. The Puzzle is a blend of 42% merlot and 36% cabernet sauvignon, with cabernet franc, petit verdot and malbec. It is made is a super ripe style with loads of plum, blackberry, currant, and cherry fruit. There is plenty of oak and hints of herbs, cola, and tobacco. With all that fruit and elegant, restrained tannins, one would be tempted understandably to drink it now but it might develop complexity if you cellar it for five or ten years.
2008 Freemark Abbey Napa ($40)
Freemark Abbey is one of Napa Valley’s oldest wine properties, having been established in 1886. It also played an important part in the revival of California wine, as there were two Freemark Abbey wines included in the famous 1976 Paris Tasting. The 2008 Cab emphasizes a fruit-driven, approachable style. Lively red currant and cherry fruit is deepened with spice, tobacco and licorice notes. While there is noticeable oak and fairly firm tannins, the texture is supple making this a wine to enjoy within the next few years.
Below are eight other wines presented without tasting notes because I’m running long. But they still are recommended and I plan to review them in more detail in another column.
2009 Duckhorn Napa ($68)
2008 Jordan Alexander Valley ($52)
2009 J. Lohr Carol’s Vineyard Napa ($40)
2009 Treana Red Paso Robles ($35)
2009 Atalon Napa ($35)
2008 Dry Creek Vineyard Meritage Sonoma County ($28)
2009 Kendall-Jackson Grand Reserve Sonoma County ($28)
2008 Dry Creek Vineyard Dry Creek Valley ($25)