As my favorite wine, I naturally drink a lot of Zinfandel. One reason is it’s quite versatile with food. It is great with spicy foods like Italian and Indian. But it really shines with the barbecue and grilled foods especially enjoyable this time of year.
I mostly love Zinfandel because it captures the essence of exuberance and zest in a glass. Although it can be made in different styles, it typically is big and bold, with a brash texture and lively raspberry, cherry and blackberry fruit accented with spice (black pepper, sage) and a brash, even a little wild character often described as briar or bramble. It also represents great value, as most of even the best wines are under $50.
Some things to keep in mind, though: Zinfandel tends toward high alcohol. The wines in my tastings ranged from 14% to 15.5%. Interestingly, nearly every wine contained some amount of petite sirah, usually to add backbone. Most will drink well for up to five years. Finally, I enjoyed the wines more when they were slightly chilled to 55 or 60 degrees. Here are my recommendations listed roughly in order of preference:
OUTSTANDING
2010 Bella “Rocky Ridge Vineyard” Rockpile ($45) – From one of the best Zinfandel producers, this high elevation (1300 feet) vineyard has produced a fine Zin that also will age well. It is dramatic and intense with brambly raspberry, cherry and blackberry, also spice and anise; it manages to be full-bodied yet elegant.
EXCELLENT
2012 Dry Creek Vineyard “Old Vine” Dry Creek Valley ($30) – The average 90+ year-old vines yield a firm but luscious wine of concentrated, briary black cherry and blackberry fruit, with suggestions of sweetness and spice.
2010 Bella “Lily Hill Estate” Dry Creek Valley ($40) – This vineyard, originally planted in 1915, has produced a big, juicy wine of concentrated wild berries and spicy herbs, with woodsy notes and a lush but firm texture that suggests improvement over time.
2011 Amapola Creek “Monte Rosso Vineyard” Sonoma Valley “Vinas Antiguas” ($42) –This unfiltered and unfined wine shows the pedigree of its mountain source and 118-year-old dry farmed vines. It is dense, with cherry and blueberry fruit, licorice, pepper and spice notes, sleek texture, and noticeable but soft tannins.
2012 Dry Creek Vineyard “Heritage Vines” Dry Creek Valley ($19) –This is rustic, though easy going, expressive with wild berry, pepper, chocolate and spice, all buttressed with bright acidity and fresh tannins.
VERY GOOD
2012 Artezin Mendocino ($17) – Also rustic, this delights with lively raspberry and boysenberry, spicy herb, a soft mouthfeel but solid tannic structure.
2011 Frank Family Napa Valley ($37) – As with most Napa wineries, Frank Family is best known for Cabernet but I’ve always enjoyed the Zin and this is another winner. Its ripe cherry and raspberry fruit compliment anise, spicy herb, sweet oak and a suggestion of minerality.
2012 Rancho Zabaco “Sonoma Heritage Vines” Sonoma County ($15) – Over half of the grapes for this Zinfandel specialist’s wine come from the Dry Creek Valley. It is plump, with juicy black and red fruits, brown spices, firm and spicy in the finish. Excellent value.
2010 Grgich Hills “Estate Grown” Napa Valley ($35) – From the winery’s organic and biodynamic Miljenko’s Vineyard, this is ripe and juicy as cherry and raspberry join chocolate, licorice and spicy herb in a dense wine finishing with firm tannins and some heat.
2011 The Federalist Dry Creek Valley ($29) – Honoring our founding fathers and zinfandel’s distinctly American character, this one offers tart cherry and spicy herb, balanced with brambly raspberry and blackberry and an intriguing char note.
2011 Artezin Dry Creek Valley ($25) – A solid Zin of juicy, ripe blackberries accented with earth and chocolate, weighty but balanced.
2010 Renwood “Premier Old Vine” Amador County ($20) –This one is loaded with jammy raspberry followed by spicy notes. Ample fruit nicely balances its firm structure.
2011 Four Vines ”Biker” Paso Robles ($18) – Another Zin specialist, zesty red fruits, spice and toasted herb flavors are its inviting calling cards.
2012 Pedroncelli “Mother Clone” Dry Creek Valley ($16) – After four generations in Sonoma, the Pedroncelli family still produces trustworthy Zins. This one’s peppery with black and tart red fruits, creamy and spicy notes, fresh acids and smooth tannins.
2011 Coup de Grâce Red Wine Lodi ($28) – intense old-vine character with spicy black and red berry fruit, licorice, earth, and full-bodied texture; not for the faint-hearted
OTHER GOOD ZINS WORTH YOUR ATTENTION
2012 Edmeades Mendocino ($20) – fermented with native yeast, briary red and black berries, hints of creamy oak, earth, and tobacco, lively acidity and ample tannins
2012 Zin-phomaniac Old Vines Lodi ($17) – The racy label beckons you but the wine delivers. Sourced from vineyards ranging from 20 to 75 years old, it’s very full-bodied, suggesting sweetness, with dark cherry, caramel and spice.
2012 Murphy-Goode Liar’s Dice Sonoma County ($21) – a welcoming blend of Dry Creek and Alexander Valley fruit offering jammy raspberry and black cherry with just a touch of spice
2012 Decoy Sonoma County ($25) – part of the Duckhorn portfolio, quite aromatic bright red berry tones, exuberant acidity finishing with a chalky note
2012 Rodney Strong Knotty Vines Sonoma County ($25) – a fine blend of old vine Russian River and Alexander Valley fruit, bright red cherry and cranberry with smoky and spicy notes, fairly tannic
2012 Caricature Old Vine Lodi ($17) – from the LangeTwins fifth generation Lodi farm, including some 100-year-old vines, spicy blackberry and boysenberry, with creamy, smoky notes
2011 Renwood Fiddletown Amador County ($25) – a rustic style, woodsy notes but quite ripe and peppery with a hint of anise, finishes tannic
2012 Kendall-Jackson “Vintner’s Reserve” Mendocino ($17) – brambly raspberry, plump and juicy blueberry, finishing with some grip
2012 Four Vines “Truant” California ($12) – juicy blue fruits, plump, easy drinking with good depth