Beginning in the early 1990’s, the popularity of Merlot wines from California grew almost exponentially among American consumers. According to The Wine Institute, just over 15,000 tons were crushed in 1990 and over 292,000 tons were crushed in 2004! American consumers were drawn to the wine’s easy drinking, approachable profile.
But then Sideways (the movie) happened. With this Pinot Noir-centric movie’s disparaging of Merlot, suddenly the associated wines became suspect, even though some of the great wines of the world are made of predominately of merlot. But reports of Merlot’s death were exaggerated. While production has fluctuated over the ensuing decade, Merlot remains the second most popular California red wine.
Much of that is soft, admittedly bland swill. But here I’m concerned with introducing discerning consumers to quality choices. At an everyday price, the 2012 William Hill Central Coast ($17) is a solid value, with tasty bright red berry fruit, an earthy note and satiny texture.
Interestingly, my recent tastings did not include any wines in the $20-$30 range. But I did find two just over $30 a bottle that should entice you. The 2010 Clos du Val Napa Valley ($35) is balanced and elegant, focused on cherry fruit. It is buttressed with a significant amount of cabernet sauvignon and dollops of petite verdot and cabernet franc. If you prefer super ripeness, you’ll think this lean and shy. I appreciate its firmness and freshness.
In contrast, the 2011 Freemark Abbey Napa Valley ($34) is more luscious and supple. It is blended with small amounts of cabernet sauvignon, petite verdot and cabernet franc, making it rich in dark cherries and brown spices.
For a few dollars more, the 2009 Grgich Hills Napa Valley ($42) is attractive for its complex mix of sweet red and black fruit, with coffee, herbal and cedar notes. It’s quite tasty and rich, though somewhat lean in style, with a touch of heat in the finish.
But I was really impressed with these excellent wines from the fifteen-year-old Buty winery in Washington State. The 2010 “Merlot-Cabernet Franc” ($40), using fruit from the Conner Lee Vineyard and Champoux Vineyard and blended with 42% cabernet franc, offers a mix of well focused dark berry fruit accented with herbs, brown spices and bittersweet chocolate delivered in a silky, elegant frame.
The 2011 “Merlot Cabernet-Franc” Conner Lee Vineyard ($45), blended with 33% cabernet franc, shows nice balance of red and black fruits steadied with crisp but lush acidity and accented with earthy, savory and spice notes. Both beckon you to drink them now but will develop for the next five to ten years.
These are all very good wines. Still, if you want to experience the heights of what West Coast Merlot can achieve, your journey should begin with Duckhorn Vineyards. Duckhorn produced its first wines in 1978 and quickly established a reputation as one of California’s best Merlot producers. Over the years, they have developed a style both for their Cabernets and Merlots that generally has been described as hard or tough when young, certainly rich and full-bodied, with generous fruit and ample tannins calling for aging 5-10+ years. Doesn’t sound like the stereotype of the soft, quaffable Merlot, does it? The only downside is this level of quality comes at a price. Duckhorn wines occupy the upper stratosphere of wine pricing. But the following new releases will reward the investment.
- 2010 Napa Valley ($54) represents the craft of blending – in this case several prized vineyards to express the essence of Napa Valley – yielding a structured wine with powerful black fruits, prominent oak and strong tannins.
- 2010 Carneros ($70) from vineyards in the southern end of the valley that benefit from the cooling influence of the San Pablo Bay, is tighter and more tannic, a bit earthy, but with sweeter, brighter cherry and plum.
- 2010 Atlas Peak ($70) shows the elements of mountain grown fruit – wild berry, currant and cola, firm tannins yet velvety palate, substantial weight and rich finish.
- 2010 Three Palms Vineyard ($90) on the northeast side of the valley floor, is Duckhorn’s flagship wine made since 1978. Its signature is to begin life hard, tight and tough, gradually yielding succulent currant and cherry fruit and developing herb and mocha notes rewarding patience with richness and complexity.
- 2010 Rector Creek Vineyard ($90), located near Yountville, was the most immediately satisfying for its more approachable tannins, softer texture, luscious berry and cherry fruit, and creamy oak.
- 2009 Stout Vineyard ($85), from a vineyard on Howell Mountain, is another one with hard tannins and a tough facade. Yet, it is really rich in black and red fruits, toasty oak and a polished palate.
NOTE: Featured Image photo courtesy of Close du Val Winery