(Featured image courtesy Goldeneye winery)
Pinot Noir at its best is all about expression of its source. It maybe why the French invented the term “terroir.” In California, there are numerous appellations along the stretch from Mendocino to Santa Barbara where fine Pinot Noir is made. In my recent tastings, most of them were represented and produced wines I can recommend.
First, two wines labeled with just a “California” designation that deliver good quality at a reasonable price: 2012 Kendall-Jackson “Vintner’s Reserve” ($24) for its inviting berries and silky texture and 2012 Gnarly Head California ($12), which is fairly basic but consumer friendly.
Mendocino County is best known for Zinfandel and Gewurztraminer but in recent years has taken its place among reliable sources of Pinot Noir, especially the Anderson Valley. And Goldeneye, a project of Napa Valley’s Duckhorn, has emerged as a leader. The 2011 vintage portfolio firmly establishes that position.
I was especially impressed with the “Gowan Creek Vineyard” ($80) and “Confluence Vineyard” ($80). Both exhibit intense dark berry fruit, toasty oak, baking spices, a rich texture and strong tannins suggesting a long life. Gowan Creek was more herbal; Confluence had more forest notes. The 2011 “Ten Degrees” ($115) also is rich, full and tannic but stratospherically expensive. And the 2011 Anderson Valley ($55) at half the price deftly combines power and elegance, ripe berry fruit and firm tannins.
Two other very good Anderson Valley wines – 2011 Fulcrum ($54) and 2012 CrossBarn ($35) – offer nice dark berry fruit with varietal earthiness. The Fulcrum is soft and juicy, the CrossBarn elegant and lively. Nearly as good, the 2012 Masút Estate Vineyard Mendocino County ($40) delivers nice berry fruit, earthy spice and a soft texture.
Sonoma County, especially the Russian River Valley, Sonoma Coast and Carneros, contains arguably the most abundant sources for Pinot Noir in the state. The Russian River Valley especially produces many of California’s most celebrated and expensive Pinot Noirs. Patz & Hall, a Chardonnay and Pinot Noir specialist, delivered two of my favorites. The 2010 Burnside Vineyard ($70) is the bigger wine, rich and lush but vibrant and graceful. The 2011 Chenoweth Ranch ($58) successfully mixes intense berries and spice with a structured, lively palate. The vibrant, generous and silky 2012 Rodney Strong “Estate” ($25) and the spicy and firm 2012 Davis Bynum “Jane’s Vineyard” ($40) also are worth attention.
The Sonoma Coast, California’s newest “hot” Pinot Noir region provided two very good options. The vibrant 2012 CrossBarn ($35) nicely balances ripe fruit with earthy notes and firm tannins. The 2011 Fulcrum “Gap’s Crown Vineyard” ($57) is sweet, yet savory and creamy, with gripping tannins. There also were two nice wines with a Sonoma County designation – 2012 Simi ($24), with its cherry and smoky notes and a nicely balanced 2012 Decoy ($25) with bright fruit and spicy herbs.
Traveling to the Central Coast, Monterey (including Arroyo Seco, Chalone and Santa Lucia Highlands) also produces some outstanding Pinot Noir. I have two good ones for you. The 2012 La Crema Monterey ($23) shows pleasant red berry notes with touches of oak and earth. The 2011 Fulcrum “Brosseau Vineyard” Chalone ($54) displays rich red berries and savory herbs, with an intriguing minerality likely attributable to Chalone’s unique limestone and granite soils.
Farther south, in San Louis Obispo County, the Arroyo Grande Valley and the Edna Valley often are overlooked but produce some fine Pinot Noir. From a pioneer of the Arroyo Grande Valley, the 2012 Laetitia “Estate” ($25) shows elegance, balance and vibrancy.
Finally, next to Sonoma, Santa Barbara County (thanks to the Santa Maria Valley and the Santa Ynez Valley) has emerged as the premier California Pinot Noir region. From the Santa Maria Valley, the 2012 Byron ($29) delivers concentrated berry fruit, toasty oak, and earthy notes, in a focused, yet supple frame. The 2011 Alta Maria ($28) has really nice dark fruits with spicy, herbal and earthy notes and an appealing freshness. The 2012 Cambria “Julia’s Vineyard” ($25) is juicy with light spice. And you will appreciate 2012 Byron Santa Barbara County ($20) for its fresh, plump fruit and touch of cinnamon.