Although sparkling wine is always an appropriate choice for any occasion any time of year, no question the holidays are the prime time for bubbly. Whether your celebration is for Hanukah, Christmas, Kwanzaa, or New Year’s Eve – or others I’m not thinking of right now – there are many opportunities to enhance your celebration with a sparkler as the wine of choice.
It’s amazing to me effervescent wine is so popular there are versions made in virtually every wine region. While Champagne from France is the benchmark for sparkling wine, as this column reflects I delight in finding and recommending good ones from other regions. And I’m not talking about only using them for toasts. Consider drinking these sparklers throughout your meal.
From France, Crémant is the term used to denote sparkling wines not made in Champagne. Crémant d’Alsace is one of the best and an affordable alternative to Champagne. It is made using the “methode traditionnelle,” meaning the bubbles are created using the Champagne method where the second fermentation occurs in the bottle.
Try the Louis Sipp NV (nonvintage) Brut ($25). This nearly one hundred year old family winery has produced a blend of pinot blanc, auxerrois, chardonnay and pinot noir that is typically light, fresh and fruity with a hint of spicy complexity. There also are two really good options from Domaine Rieflé, another family owned concern that has been growing grapes in Alsace since 1850. Designated “Bonheur Festif” (translated as “festive happiness”), the NV Brut ($20), equal parts pinot banc and auxerrois, offers lively apple and peach and the NV Brut Rosé ($22) reveals its 100% pinot noir with delicate, fresh berries and light brown spice.
Even more modest prices can be had with Spanish Cava. Most Cava is produced by the traditional method using the indigenous grapes macabeo, xarel-lo, parellada in the Penedès Valley in Cataluna not far from Barcelona. It has long been my go-to bubbly for parties and a friendly accompaniment for meals.
Founded in 1865, Mont-Ferrant is the oldest cellar in the region. Its 2010 Brut Reserva ($15) comes across as smooth yet 
lively, light with tasty apple and citrus. The NV Brut Rose ($20), a blend of garnacha and monastrell with a touch of pinot noir, delivers juicy red and black fruits in a surprisingly full frame. More expensive but more complex, the 2008 “Berta Bouzy” Extra Brut ($28) celebrates the wife of the family patriarch who kept the property operating while her husband had to leave Spain during its civil war.
Codorníu has been a premier sparkling wine producer since 1872 when the family introduced the traditional method to Spain. The family’s winemaking history actually stretches back more than 450 years to 1551. Anna de Codorníu Brut ($15) celebrates the life of Codorníu’s last heiress and the family she guided. It was the first Cava to use chardonnay in its cuvee, 70 percent in this release with 30 percent parellada. It shows some richness and a little sweetness, with a solid structure and a creamy texture and more fruit than expected – citrus, tropical and strawberry aromas; and apple, citrus, and raspberry flavors. The Brut Rosé ($15) takes the French approach a step further by blending 70% pinot noir and 30% chardonnay. Bright red cherry and strawberry lead a touch of apple while it drinks with a touch of sweetness.
Cava recently has had competition in the value category from Prosecco, the fresh frizzante from the Veneto region of northeastern Italy. Prosecco – the name of the production zone, while glera is the dominant grape – unlike the other sparklers in this report is produced using the Charmat Method. In this case, the bubbles are produced by inducing the second fermentation in a pressurized tank, instead of the bottle.
One of the better values I have had in awhile is the Pizzolato Fields NV Brut ($12). The Pizzolato family has been working in agriculture for more than five generations on an estate located north of the town of Treviso. This Brut is made from organically grown grapes using indigenous yeasts and is certified non-GMO. It strikes me as a touch sweeter than most Prosecco but its peach, apple and honey notes strike a balance with delicate freshness. I also enjoyed a new Presecco from the California-based brand Ménage à Trois. The NV Dry ($15) is crisp, clean, a bit floral and shows hints of apple pear, and lemon.
For my California selection, I’m recommending a reliable choice in the so-called “value” category – Barefoot Bubbly. Barefoot Cellars has been churning out good value wines since 1986 and Barefoot Bubby since 1998. Today, they produce thirteen still wines and eleven sparkling. The mainstays of the Barefoot Bubbly line are the Brut Cuvée and Extra Dry, both are made from chardonnay using the Charmat Method and priced at $11. The Brut is not as dry as the term usually indicates. But it is clean and crisp, with nice lemon and apple fruit balanced with creamy notes. The Extra Dry and shows nice fresh citrus pear, and tropical fruit; it is slightly sweet but finishes with refreshing acidity. These wines are ideal for parties and family gatherings and make a good base for the ever popular mimosa.
The biggest surprise of my sparkling wine tasting was the bubbles from Graham Beck Wines, whose vineyards are located
in the Western Cape province of South Africa. Graham Beck is known for producing affordable wines that offer good value. This proved especially true with the sparkling wines.
The NV Brut ($15), 55% chardonnay and 45% pinot noir, offers lively apricot and citrus with a crisp finish. The NV Brut Rosé ($15) shows its 59% pinot noir and 41% chardonnay with light cherry and strawberry and fresh palate. The two vintage companions – 2009 Blanc de Blancs ($25) and 2009 Brut Rosé ($25) – for a modest premium provide significant additional intensity and complexity.