As I wrote recently, Paso Robles (“passage of the oaks”) arguably is the most interesting wine region in California, which makes it one of the most interesting wine regions in the world. One of the most appealing elements is that it isn’t just about, say good Cabernet Sauvignon, though there is plenty of that. It’s that so many less familiar taste experiences await you – including Zinfandel and a wide variety of Rhône-style wines. While there are many good wines priced $15 and under, even the (increasingly more common) higher priced wines represent better values than comparable wines from better-known regions.Here is a rundown from my recent tastings.
J. Lohr. Jerry Lohr was a pioneer of modern Central Coast winegrowing and is one of the producers most responsible for the emergence of Paso Robles as a world-class wine region. Today, J. Lohr is one of the largest growers and wineries in the area producing over three-dozen different wines in a range of price categories.
I recently tasted several from the Rhône-inspired “Gesture” portfolio: a complex and spicy 2012 Syrah ($30), a ripe and woodsy 2012 Mourvèdre ($30), a crisp and creamy 2013 RVG (roussanne, viognier, grenache blanc, $30), a rich and juicy 2013 Viognier ($25), and a light, refreshing 2013 Grenache Rosé ($18).
Austin Hope. The Hope family has been farming Paso for nearly 40 years. Austin has lead the family’s venture into winemaking and produces a variety of wines under several different labels but the best are released under his own. The elegant and welcoming 2011 Grenache ($42), and powerful and succulent 2011 Syrah ($42) remind me why I have long been a fan.
Tablas Creek. In 1989, importer Robert Haas and the Perrin family of Château Beaucastel decided Paso Robles was the ideal place for their joint venture. They produce almost exclusively Rhône-style wines from organic, estate grown grapes. At all levels the wines are distinctive and represent excellent values.
Esprit de Tablas and Esprit de Tablas Blanc are the signature wines. They can rightly be called California versions of Château Beaucastel. The vines were propagated from cuttings from Beaucastel and like Beaucastel the red blend (2012, $55) emphasizes mourvèdre and the white blend (2012, $45) emphasizes roussanne.
The Côtes de Tablas tier was not represented in my tasting but can be described as a California version of good Cotes du Rhône. Similarly, the Patelin de Tablas line seems modeled after the lesser-known southern Rhône regions of Côtes du Ventoux (red) and Côtes du Luberon (white). Patelin de Tablas (2012, $20) is based on syrah; Patelin de Tablas Blanc (2013, $20) is based on grenache blanc. Tablas Creek also excels with varietal wines. I tasted two and both were very good: a bright and delicate 2012 Grenache ($40) and a lush and savory 2012 Roussanne ($35).
Paso Robles has become so highly regarded others want in on the act, like the wineries below.
Rabble Wine Company. Rob Murray, a grower for many years recently got into winemaking and looked to Paso Robles with two brands. Tooth & Nail deftly blends Rhône and Bordeaux varietals: cabernet sauvignon, syrah, petite sirah and malbec for “The Possessor” (2012, $27) and malbec and syrah for “The Fiend” (2012, $27). Force of Nature focuses more on varietals, like the concentrated and woodsy 2013 Cabernet Sauvignon ($23) and the lush, enticing 2013 Zinfandel ($23). Also, I don’t normally comment on labels but all of the Force of Nature labels but, as you can see here with the Zinfandel, Force of Nature’s labels are remarkable.
Halter Ranch. Crafting 100% estate-grown wines that are sustainably farmed, Halter Ranch also produces several Rhône and Bordeaux inspired wines worth seeking out. The 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon ($32) was well made and satisfying.
Niner Estates. This winery has been producing wines made from sustainably grown estate grapes in its LEED Certified winery since the early 2000s. My tasting showcased a deeply fruited and focused 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon Bootjack Ranch ($35), a velvety, earthy 2012 Malbec ($30) and an intense, savory and spicy 2012 Syrah ($30).
Clayhouse. Based in Washington State, the Middleton family established Clayhouse ten years ago. I tasted two really good values, both from the family’s Estate Red Cedar Vineyard: a nicely balanced, fruit forward 2012 Malbec ($14) and a 2012 Syrah ($14) loaded with berry fruit.
And these are just the beginning. With over 200 wineries and now 11 AVAs (geographically delineated American Viticultural Areas), not to mention numerous artisan food producers, a growing number of excellent restaurants and Firestone Walker brewery (when you need a break from all that great wine), Paso Robles is also a fantastic wine travel destination.