Every winemaker says they believe “wine is made in the vineyard.” They talk about terroir and vineyard expression but that depends on decisions made by the winemaker in the cellar. Winemakers, whether they admit it or not, generally try to achieve a certain style.
California Cabernet Sauvignon is a good example of this. California Cabernet – especially from the Napa Valley – has become something of a phenomenon in recent decades with a general style of wine that emphasizes richness and concentration. Of course there are variations on the theme. Though, whether the wine is blended from multiple sources or a single vineyard, this style is recognizable in pronounced fruit, lavish oak (much of it new); a full body, supple texture, and refined tannins. Ideally, all this results in a wine that is enticing to drink now but can be aged and enjoyed for many years.
Duckhorn Vineyards has a 35-year history of producing what could be described as “quintessentially Napa Valley Cabernet.” Over the years, their portfolio has grown to include regional, appellation and single vineyard bottlings and has acquired a dedicated following. In 2011, Duckhorn successfully pulls off this style at all levels. The 2011 Napa Valley – the lowest priced offering at $60 – wraps sweet oak around juicy red fruit finishing with moderate but ample tannins.
The 2011 Rutherford Appellation ($95) displays more up front berry and currant fruit while the appellation’s signature dusty earth sensation melds well with strong tannins structured to evolve over time. The 2011 Monitor Ledge ($95) ups the ante with more intense fruit including a good 25% dose of merlot) balanced with 85% new oak and tough but manageable tannins. An intense drink now, it should develop some elegance and complexity over time.
But not everyone in Napa has jumped on the bandwagon. For a good style contrast look to the 2011 Grgich Hills Napa Valley Estate Grown ($60). Grgich Hills is known for producing wines in what generally is described as an “Old World” style. More like traditional Bordeaux, there is less of an emphasis on assertive fruit and more on lively acidity and firm structure. This is still Napa, so there is a sense of concentrated red fruits, but the Old World style asserts itself with stronger hints of earth and dried herbs. This certified organic and biodynamic wine is quite dry and should reward patience, as these wines typically evolve intriguing savory qualities.
Many wineries try to strike a balance between the two styles. The three below do a good job of combining the ripeness of California fruit with the nuances of Bordeaux. Basically, that means neither the fruit nor the oak hit you over the head. Instead, they join together to caress your palate. A good example is the 2012 Atalon Napa Valley ($35). There is plenty of red and black fruitbut also noticeable earth and herbal notes. The tannins are fairly soft, inviting early consumption. It finishes on a slightly (pleasantly) bitter note that should help it pair well with a variety of foods.
With the 2012 Sequoia Grove Napa Valley ($38) 11% cabernet franc and 10% merlot soften and round out the wine. Combined with firm acidity and intense fruit, we have what could be called a California expression of the Bordeaux style.
The 2011 Freemark Abbey Napa Valley ($44) – from one of Napa Valley’s oldest wine properties, having been established in 1886 – finds this new/old balance more through blending. It’s only 76 percent cabernet sauvignon with 18 percent merlot and dollops of cabernet franc, petite verdot and malbec. There is still plenty of lively Napa fruit, touches of creamy oak and fairly firm tannins. But none of these overwhelm. Instead, they compliment to achieve a seamless whole.
Sonoma County is the other California Cabernet powerhouse, especially with vineyards from Alexander, Sonoma and Dry Creek valleys.
The 2012 Rodney Strong Alexander Valley ($28) to my palate falls more into the New World” style. This bottling continues to be one of the best Cabernet values around. Its extravagant black fruits and toasty oak make for a fairly full-bodied, complex wine finishing with refined tannins. This enables it to entice the drinker into early consumption but also tempt you to wait a few years to see how it develops.
Another one of the better values in this price range, the 2012 Kendall-Jackson Sonoma County “Grand Reserve” ($30) even shows more woodsy, spicy complexity than one would expect to take the drinking experience beyond the wholly enjoyable berry fruit.
The 2011 Arrowood Sonoma County ($30) offering is mostly Sonoma Valley fruit with some Alexander Valley. It strikes a nice compromise (as in successfully melding different characteristics) between bright red fruit, fresh tannins and soft texture to achieve a result that encourages current consumption.
Whether you prefer wines with deep, jammy fruit and opulent oak or wines with more reserved fruit but a more complex array of flavor nuances. Or you like big, tannic monsters or wines with polish and finesse. This column hopefully has demonstrated there are outstanding California Cabernet Sauvignons that can accomplish both.