Wine has been made in Argentina at least as long and probably longer than in the U.S. but it really is in just the last ten years or so that Argentinian wine – most notably Malbec, Argentina’s “signature grape” – has emerged in the U.S. market. More and more people who used to order a Merlot or Cabernet Sauvignon now are enticed to request a Malbec.
Of course, it helps that the wines are user friendly and eminently drinkable. But this growing popularity is mostly due to the welcoming prices (many at $20 or less). These wines hit the value sweet spot. Below are several new releases (only one will set you back serious money) that would be fine choices for everyday drinking.
Malbec, a minor blending grape in Bordeaux (though important in Cahors) experiences some sort of alchemy in Argentina’s high desert soils. Mendoza in the northwestern part of the country is the primary source, though other regions have gotten into the act successfully. Much good quality Mendoza Malbec can be had for $15 or less and you will get up front, round fruit and lush textures for your money. Good options from my recent tastings:
- 2012 Septima ($11) – a new winery with Spanish ownership farming high altitude vineyards
- 2012 Rutini “Trumpeter” ($11) – dating from 1885 and now owned by the Argentinian icon Nicolas Catena, this is his value brand
- 2013 Arido ($12) – notable for its complete lack of oak influence emphasizing bright fruit
- 2013 Argento Reserva ($14) – producing solid wines from high altitude vineyards since 1998
- 2013 Gascon ($14) –vineyards dating to 1884 produce a flavorful, friendly wine
For a little more money expect more intense fruit and a bit more structure.
- 2012 Trapiche “Broquel” ($18) – Argentina’s largest exported brand and one of its oldest wineries (1883) still delivers quality with its “shield” label
- 2011 Rutini “Encuentro” ($19) – meaning “encounter” or “meeting” of fine Argentinean fruit and an international style, this is very full flavored
- 2011 Kirkland “Signature Series” ($20) – the upper tier of the house brand of Costco provides impressive quality for a high production wine
- 2011 Tomero Reserva ($25) – from the winery’s well situated estate vineyard
Those who prefer Cabernet Sauvignon also will find something to love from the 2012 Trapiche “Broquel” ($18), which delivers fine varietal quality.
Many producers also have found success blending Malbec and Cabernet Sauvignon. The 2013 Vistalba “Corte C” ($18) at 76% malbec and 14% cabernet sauvignon and 10% bonarda is elegant, yet structured and full of fruit. The 2012 Layer Cake “Sea of Stones” Red Wine ($15) blends malbec, cabernet sauvignon, syrah, and petit verdot but the signature taste is stone, wrapping sweet fruit with a touch of spice.
The most expensive wine in my tastings – the 2011 Vistalba “Corte B” ($30) – was also the best. At 51% malbec, 37% bonarda and 12% cabernet sauvignon, it’s firm structure, pure dark fruit with tobacco, and refined texture is worth the extra change. It is enjoyable now but will improve over time.
The most interesting white wine comes from torrontés, which is unique to Argentina but has been shown to be the offspring of Mediterranean varieties. While most of the celebrated bottlings come from the northern regions of La Rioja, especially Salta, the 2013 Tomero Mendoza ($17) was typically aromatic, with a mélange of melon, apple, lemon, tangerine and pear in a light, crisp frame.
All in all, a very impressive showing. These two varieties of European origin that have adapted so well to Argentina’s terroir deliver high quality and flavor interest at reasonable prices. Although Argentina’s economy is struggling (whose economy isn’t!) and the wine industry is not unaffected, we are lucky the wines just keep getting better. New growing areas, new varieties, new blends, they all are worth your attention.