Dry pink wines, while appreciated in Europe for centuries, faced a schizophrenic reaction from Americans toward the end of the last century. As sweet “blush” wines like White Zinfandel became wildly popular, most dry wine drinkers decided all rosés were sweet and not worth their time.
Europeans have known for a long time the joy of drinking pale red wine. Whether Rosé (French), Rosato (Italian) or Rosado (Spanish), they are mostly dry. They show bright, fresh fruit aromas and flavors of strawberry, cherry, raspberry, cranberry or rhubarb. The best approximate the profile of their red siblings but drink more like white wines. Because of their freshness, pink drinks are always best enjoyed young; so look for the most recent vintages available.
Most wine producing countries now have gotten into the act with a wide variety of grapes and finally these wines seem to be gaining appreciation in this country. I my opinion, rosé should be inexpensive, no matter how good it is. With the exception of sparkling wine, it is less expensive to make and is made for early consumption. So, here I have focused on wines priced $20 or less.
From France, the 2014 M. Chapoutier “Belleruche” Cotes-du-Rhone ($16) fashions grenache, syrah and cinsault into a brisk wine with strawberry and cherry notes. The nonvintage Lucien Albrecht Brut Rose Cremant d’Alsace ($22) adds bubbles to pinot noir for a crisp taste of strawberry; an affordable alternative to Champagne.
And France’s neighbors also are reliable sources. I have Italian recommendations that span the length of the boot. The 2014 Mezzacorona ($10) delivers creamy cherry from local lagrein grapes sustainably farmed at the foot of the Dolomiti (Italian Alps). One of Brunello di Montalcino’s best producers uses estate grown sangiovese to produce the brisk red berries of the 2014 Il Poggione “Brancato” ($18).
The 2013 Villa Gemma Cerasuolo D’Abruzzo ($20), made from the indigenous montepulciano grapes in the Abruzzo region south of Rome is bright and full of tangy strawberry and cherry. Sicily sources the 2014 Stemmari ($10) whose tart red fruit features sustainably farmed native nero d’Avola grapes.
The Iberian Peninsula also appreciates these wines. The light, tart cherry of the 2014 Vina Real ($14) from Rioja comes from 85% viura (white grape) and 15% tempranillo. Spain’s neighbor Portugal was well represented with the sharp raspberry of the 2014 Esporao “Defesa” ($15), a blend of aragonês and syrah.
Even South Africa is worth a look. The 2014 Goats do Roam “Fair Trade Goats Rose” ($10) as the bottle notes uses mostly shiraz grenache, gamay noir, and mourvedre grapes that are “fair trade certified sourced from fair trade producers” for a slightly sweet impression. The strawberry and cranberry fruit of the 2014 Mulderbosch Cabernet Sauvignon Rosé ($14) is full bodied for a rose.
American producers increasingly are making nice rosés, too. I have been a fan of the Pedroncelli Dry Rose of Zinfandel as long as I can remember. Actually, Pedroncelli has been making this wine since 1958. A blend of free run and saignee juice, the 2014 “Signature Collection” Dry Creek Valley ($12) is easygoing with raspberry and spice.
From Washington, the 2014 Charles & Charles Rosé Columbia Valley ($14) is lively and flavorful, with pretty watermelon and creamy spice aromas and flavors, finishing off-dry. This collaboration between wine entrepreneur Charles Bieler and winekmaker Charles Smith (K Vintners) is a fanciful blend of mostly syrah, mourvedre, cabernet sauvignon, grenache, cinsault, and counoise.
And finally an unconventional recommendation. I typically crave a glass of Port in the cold of winter but I also have found an elegant, pure Tawny Port (they are best served slightly chilled anyway) can be quite enjoyable during warmer weather, too. The Warre’s 10 Year Old “Otima” ($30/500ml) offers an intriguing mix of fresh and dried cherry and orange, with hints of toffee, almonds and caramel. Balanced, intense and refined, it is an ideal cocktail.