As I have written before, summer weather invariably finds me turning to cool, refreshing white wines for relief from the heat and to accompany the lighter foods I also crave. For this post I cross the Atlantic to find delightful choices from the Iberian Peninsula – namely Spain and Portugal.
Actually, I only have one from Portugal, a country best known for its reds after all. Located in the Alentejo region southeast of Lisbon, Heredade do Esporão has been a leading Portuguese family winery since 1267 but also is in the forefront of introducing Portuguese whites to the modern world. They also have fashioned an excellent value in the 2013 “Duas Castas” ($10), which means two grapes, in this case the indigenous grapes gouveio, and antão vaz. This combination and brief aging on the lees in stainless steel tank helps it show a lot of flavor for the price. yields a fruity, enticingly floral aromatic wine with notes, bracing acidity, with tasty hints of lime orange and spicy herb.
Spain also is better known for its red wines but if you know where to look, offers up some nice light hearted, zesty summer sippers, also from native grapes. Expect light, dry and refreshing with enticing aromatic and occasionally mineral notes.
The 2014 CVNE “Monopole” Rioja ($15) is produced using local viura, the major white grape of the region, which, like its namesake macbeo in Penedes, is noted for its aromatics and acidity. Still family-owned, five generations have been making wine since 1879; they’ve been making Monopole for 100 years. It is elegant and expressive with nectarine, lime and stone.
Albariño, the most important grape of the Rías Baixas region near the Galician coast in northwestern Spain, has gained significant popularity in recent years. From one of the region’s most accessible producers, the 2013 Martin Codax Albariño ($17) offers typical crisp and lively fresh citrus, lime and nectarine fruit given added interest with mineral and saline notes.
Spanish Cava has long been my go-to bubbly for parties and friendly accompaniment for meals. Most Cava is produced by the traditional method using the indigenous grapes in the Penedès Valley in Catalunya (Catalonia) not far from Barcelona. It’s recently had competition from Prosecco but is still a great choice. This is demonstrated by the Vilarnau Brut ($13). The Vilarnau estate traces its origins in the region to the 12th century and has made Cava since 1949. The Brut is a small production Cava made with macabeo, parellada, and xarel-lo grapes. It is fuller bodied and more flavorful than your average Cava, especially at this price. This probably has something to do with the wine’s 15 months lees aging, which is unusual for Cava. Expect toast, yeast, and apple aromas. Firm acidity and fine bubbles deliver pure flavors of apple and peach.
For those of you who prefer soft, fruity wines, look to Mia Wines from Freixenet, a company best known for its Cava. Longtime winemaker Gloria Collell created these as a fun, affordable choice for casual drinking. The label on the 2013 White ($10) – a blend of macabeo, parellada, moscato, and xarel-lo – says “aromatic & fruity” and it accurately describes the effusively fruity orange and lemonade aromas and flavors. The Sparkling Moscato ($12) is delicately sweet, softly effervescent and floral with tropical notes. Both are notable for low alcohol, 11% and 7% respectively.
At the opposite end of the alcohol and intensity spectrum, consider a glass of Sherry, the fortified wine produced in southern Spain near the very tip of the peninsula. Sherry styles range from dry to sweet and from light to rich and luscious. The only catch is the high alcohol; so, drink them with food and in small doses.
I have selected three styles from Gonzalez & Byass, one of Spain’s oldest Sherry producers, having been established in 1835 in Jerez. First is Tio Pepe (one of the world’s most recognizable Sherry labels) Palomino Fino “Muy Seco” ($18). “Fino” is the lightest, dry style of Sherry. And yes, it is “very dry.” After the palomino grapes are fermented in stainless steel tanks, the wine ages under a layer of yeast (called “flor”) that prevents it from oxidizing. Light with immediate impact of saline and mineral notes followed by light nut, vanilla and apricot. Drinks fresh but its 15% alcohol is noticeable. It is best served well chilled and pairs well with tapas, snacks, olives, oysters and fried seafood.
More complex, rich and lush, is the “Leonor Palo Cortado 12 Anos” ($25). The Palo Cortado style begins life like a Fino but loses the flor layer as it ages gaining concentration and complexity from the exposure to air. And the Leonor benefits from an average of twelve years of age. It is viscous and intense, with toasted almond, apricot and buttered toast. Ironically, even at 20% alcohol, the expected burn is hardly noticeable. This Sherry is great on its own but will nicely compliment a variety of savory foods.
At the sweet end of the spectrum, the “Nectar” Pedro Ximenez ($40) is really special. Most consumers are familiar with Cream Sherry, made by blending a dry Sherry with a very sweet wine (usually made with Pedro Ximenez or moscatel). Nectar is 100% Pedro Ximenex. It is rich and dense, with a syrupy, velvety palate and concentrated, complex flavors of caramel, raisin and fig, with a touch of almond. Pair with desserts of similar flavors. Amazingly, it is great with vanilla ice cream!
At the sweet end of the spectrum, the “Nectar” Pedro Ximenez ($40) is really special.
Among the dessert styles, most consumers are familiar with Cream Sherry, made by blending a dry Sherry with a very sweet wine (usually made with Pedro Ximenez or moscatel). In this case, Nectar is a varietal wine is made solely from the Pedro Ximenex grape. Typically, it is rich and dense, with a syrupy, velvety palate and concentrated, complex flavors of caramel, raisin and fig, with a touch of almond. Pair with desserts of similar flavors or pour over vanilla ice cream.