While Italy is justly famous for its red wines, there also is a plethora of interesting white wines worthy of consumer attention. Much of that interest comes from the variety afforded by countless indigenous grapes. I only cover one region, the northeast, in this column but I think you will find these wines intriguing enough to pique your interest in the other white wines of Italy.
Prosecco, with its light, frothy flavors has achieved significant popularity in recent years. It comes from an unlikely area in the eastern Veneto, in the hills north of Venice and is made using the native glera grape. The bubbles are produced in large stainless steel tanks instead of individual bottles to preserve the glera’s seemingly inherent freshness. Affordable and eminently drinkable (lower alcohol), it is versatile for many occasions. I recently enjoyed the Mionetto Prestige Collection Brut ($17). With a history in the region dating to 1887, Mionetto is one of its most highly regarded producers. This wine’s clean, refreshing style and delicate apple and pear notes are quite appealing.
A little to the west and stretching south of the Alps (Italy’s Dolomites, or Dolomiti), Alto Adige (also called Südtirol in German or South Tyrol in English) is Italy’s northernmost wine growing region. Nestled between Switzerland and Austria, you are more likely to hear German spoken than Italian. Although it is one of Italy’s smallest wine regions, it is also one of the most diverse, with many indigenous and international varieties. While there are some good red wines, the white wines are of most interest.
Start with Pinot Grigio, the best-known Italian white wine. Abbazia di Novacella, an Augustinian Abbey founded in 1142 that has been producing wine for over 850 years, makes one of the best. With its high elevation vineyards in the cool climate of the Valle Isarco, I wasn’t surprised at the intense aromas and flavors of their wines.
Even as Pinot Grigio has gained popularity in recent years it also has developed an unflattering reputation among many in the wine world as insipid. But, in the hands of an attentive producer like Novacella, the 2013 ($19) flashes fine aromatics and true character. Known as pinot gris in France and rulander in Germany, this crisp, floral wine shows creamy aromas of citrus and melon, some weight, and tangy acidity on the finish
Novacella also makes a fine 2013 Grüner Veltliner ($19). In recent years, Austria has drawn a lot of attention for its challengingly named but fresh, spicy and weighty Grüner Veltliner. This one also displays cashew, green herb and fresh apple.
Or try a Pinot Bianco. The 2014 Kellerei Cantina Andriano “finado” ($15) comes from the first cooperative in the area (founded in 1893). Its lemon-lime fruit, fairly full body and crisp finish proves that coops can produce outstanding wine. Also known as pinot blanc in France, pinot bianco, often provides surprising character, which makes it a popular contributor to the sparkling wines of the region.
I would especially recommend you try a Gewürztraminer. It turns out the grape, which is better known for the wines it produces in Alsace, actually may have originated in this part of Italy. “Traminer” likely refers to the village of Tramin and “gewurz” means “spicy” but here it refers more to intense aromatics. In the case of the 2013 Elena Walch Gewürztraminer ($23) that means flowers, tropical fruit, and lychee, followed by brisk citrus and apricot flavors. The only caveats I offer for readers are that it carries more weight and alcohol (14.5%) than most white wines. But this one was a particular treat for me as Gewürztraminer is one of my favorite white wines.
From the western end of the Veneto around legendary villages of Verona, Vicenza and Padua, Soave is a wine that has fallen in and out of favor with American consumers. If that means you, I suggest you try the 2014 Pieropan Soave Classico ($15). One of the Veneto’s most reliable producers, this family-owned winery was established in 1880 and and crafts his wine from 85% garganega – the major white grape of Soave – and 15% trebbiano from the Classico zone (the original vineyard zone of the region). Pieropan’s hillside vineyards and low yields deliver lemon and almonds good acidity and steely qualities.
From the same area, the 2014 Masi Masianco ($15) is a unique, enticing blend of mostly pinot grigio (actually cultivated in Friuli) and some indigenous verduzzo produced using the traditional winemaking method of drying the grapes before fermentation (known as appassimento, where the grapes are laid out to dry on bamboo racks for about three weeks) to increase concentration and intensity. crisp citrus, honey Lemon, peach, dried apricot, honey, touch of spice, and cantaloupe melon, freshness and fruitness of pinot grigio and full-bodied smoothness of verduzzo gives a nutty note.
2014 Aia Vecchia Vermentino Maremma ($12) Aia Vecchia is a small family-owned winery located in the western Tuscan countryside. After years of growing grapes, the family decided to produce their own wines about ten years ago. It has quickly become one of my new favorite wineries for the incredible value of its wines. This Vermentino is big and ripe for a white wine. Previously associated more with Corsica, this grape has made the trip across the Mediterranean to the mainland and has begun showing up in many Tuscan wineries’ portfolios.