I am willing to bet a survey of American wine drinkers would reveal that the vast majority have no idea Hungary is home to a world class wine region. That wine region is Tokaj (pronounced toe-keye).
I bet fewer still have heard of the furmint grape. Believed to be indigenous to this region in northern Hungary (roughly two hours northeast of Budapest) it is best known in the wine world as the foundation of the famous (and historically revered) Tokaji Aszú dessert wine.
According to the promotional group FurmintUSA, which provided the samples reviewed here, consumers should expect to hear more about furmint in the near future. It already is the leading Hungarian grape variety. And about 80 percent of the world’s furmint is grown in Hungary, though that and historical factors after World War II likely explain why the grape is so little known today.
Ironically, Tokaji Aszú enjoyed a high-class reputation at least from the 17th Century to the early 20th Century being favored by Europe’s royalty. Until recently, though, it was virtually unknown as a dry wine, especially in the U.S. Since the breakup of the Soviet Union, many mostly small, family-owned wineries have been established. And especially younger generations have focused grape growing on winemaking quality over quantity.
Now, dry furmints are creating quite a buzz in the wine world, with sommeliers, critics and others raving about an array of pungent aromatics, fruitfulness, structure, minerality and weight as all of these characteristics usually don’t all come together in the same wine.
As with many grape varieties, furmint can be vinified into various styles: from crisp, fruity everyday wines to full bodied and bracing to amazingly intense and complex single vineyard wines. Most of these wines see at least some time in oak, though some use less to emphasize fruit and acidity, while others use more oak to develop added richness and complexity.
2011 Gróf Degenfeld Tokaji Furmint ($20). The Count Degenfeld family, which came to the Tokaj region in the early 19th Century and has been influential in the area, including winemaking, ever since, reestablished the winery in 1996. This is an estate wine made from organically grown grapes; undergoes barrel fermentation and aging; and sports snappy lemon, apple and stone fruit with cream and spice and unctuous texture.
2011 Erzsébet Estate Furmint ($24). Founded in 1992, though winemaking on the property dates to 1743, this wine is a blend of two top vineyards from this extremely small estate. Nutty, caramel notes mix with steely pear and juicy tangerine, with a gripping finish.
2012 Kvaszinger “Hatalos” ($30). This is another winery whose winemaking heritage dates to the early 1800s, though the new winery only dates to 2011. The grapes from the steep Hatalos slope are mostly fermented and aged in barrel. Lively orange, steely minerality join with apple and citrus.
2011 Majoros “Deák” ($40). Founded in 2009, this producer has been willing to experiment with methods not common to white wine making. For instance, this single vineyard wine is fermented four months with skin contact and has just been bottled. It shows admirable intensity and complexity with aromas of toasted cashew, pear and peppery spice combined with rich but refreshingly brisk green apple.
2012 Gizella “Szil-Völgy” ($55). Here, third generation winemakers have continued the family tradition opening this cellar in 1992. This single vineyard selection shows savory and mineral qualities along with intense, creamy apple and pear.
2012 Sauska Medve ($65). Established in 1998 by a Hungarian who gained success as an engineer in America, this “gravity fed” winery reflects that engineering background. The emphasis on gentle handling extends to the use of only ambient yeasts to ferment the wines. This barrel fermented and aged vineyard selection has penetrating aromas and flavors of forest, spice, pepper, mineral, smoke and fruit notes of apricot, orange, and apple.
Producers are still learning how well dry furmint ages but most seem to be at their best between three and six years, while the single vineyard wines can age and develop for a decade or more. The wines will partner well with an array of foods but especially spicy foods, creamy dishes Asian cuisine and roasts.
One caveat is that these wines for now are still relatively scarce with spotty distribution (hint, hint importers and distributors). And keep in mind, most of these are small estates with small production. But dry furmint can be absolutely delicious, with similar aromatic properties to, say, Grüner-Veltliner or dry Riesling. And in my opinion, almost as adept at translating the nuances of terroir.
A great alternative white wine option, don’t be surprised if dry furmints from Hungary gain in popularity and distribution in the next few years. They should get on your radar NOW!