When it comes to American wine, most of us tend to think of California. Certainly, California wine dominates production and store shelves. But we would be remiss if we did not seek out wines from other states. In this case, I’m thinking of Washington, the second largest wine producing state in the nation.
It’s amazing, in 1996 there were 80 wineries; today there are over 850. But more important has been the dramatic increase in quality. Here I have assembled just a few examples to hopefully encourage you to embark on your own exploration.
Buty Winery, the fifteen year old project of Nina Buty, has quickly taken a place among the state’s best. Notable for its commitment to a natural winemaking, Buty also focuses on crafting innovative blends. Such as the 2010 “Rediviva of the Stones” ($60) – syrah, cabernet sauvignon and mourvèdre, which entices with its intense aromatics and flavors of red and black fruits, pepper, baking spices, finesse, and lively mouthfeel.
Another signature of Buty wines is a lively, vibrant character as seen in the 2013 Semillon, Sauvignon and Muscadelle ($25), which entices with lively citrus and fig while also displaying creamy richness. Buty also produces a lower priced line called BEAST that sources a wider variety of grapes and vineyards. The 2012 “Wildebeest” ($25) is a fine value combining syrah, cabernet franc, cabernet sauvignon, malbec and mourvèdre to produce abundant plum and berry with leafy notes and a sleek texture.
The Middleton family has worked the land in Washington since 1898 but only established Cadaretta in Walla Walla in 2005. Their dedication and experience shows in the 2011 Columbia Valley Cabernet Sauvignon ($40), fairly full-bodied with dense, ripe currant, hints of herbs and supple texture. Firm tannins should help it develop for 10 years.
Even more impressive is the 2011 “Springboard” ($50). Essentially Cadaretta’s reserve, it is a blend of 80% Cabernet Sauvignon and 20% Petit Verdot. It exudes dark berries and plum accented with touches of earth, herbs and spice. While it is fairly full-bodied, with a welcoming mouth feel, strong tannins and abundant fruit suggest a long life.
Tom Hedges and Anne-Marie Liégeois established Hedges Family Estate in 1987 and are considered pioneers of Red Mountain appellation, which has become one of Washington’s most highly regarded regions. Today, their daughter, winemaker Sarah, and son, General Manager Christophe, carry on the family tradition. The 2012 Red Mountain ($27) – 60% cabernet sauvignon and 26% merlot with dabs of syrah, cabernet franc and malbec – shows bright cherry and red currant with herbs and tobacco balanced with fresh tannins that keep it all lingering on the finish.
The Hedges family also is respectful of their history, as is seen with the 2012 Descendants Liegeois Dupont “Cuvée Marcel Dupont” Les Gosses Vineyard ($27). A tribute to Anne-Marie’s grandfather, this Syrah tilts to the earthy and spicy side of the grape with fennel and black pepper dominating the sweet/tart cherry flavors.
Speaking of pioneers, for 53 years Columbia Winery has been a leader in the development of Washington wine. Now owned by Gallo, new Winemaker Sean Hails has replaced the late, iconic winemaker David Lake. Working closely with several well-established growers, Hails crafts wines that are more than anything just good values.
Wines like the 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Chardonnay ($14) are varietally correct, with lively fruit and an easy drinking style ideal for everyday enjoyment. On the other hand, the “Composition” Red Blend ($14), a multivintage blend of cabernet sauvignon, merlot, plus syrah, malbec, and petit verdot, has juicy blackberry and cherry with hints of spice, soft tannins and a lingering finish.
Finally, more good values are available from the Middleton family’s Buried Cane label. Try the 2013 Columbia Valley Cabernet Sauvignon ($14) for its sweet dark berries with hints of chalk, mint and pepper delivered on a soft palate with good grip on finish. The
2011 Columbia Valley Red Wine ($25) is more complex with dark fruits and forest notes, black licorice and black pepper.