Wine grapes have been grown in Oregon since the mid-1800’s but it really wasn’t until the 1960’s when the seeds, actually the vines, were sown for the development of the internationally renowned wine industry we know today. With nearly 700 wineries, the state has become synonymous with world class Pinot Noir.
Oregon also has blazed the trail in the sustainable agriculture movement with increasing numbers of wineries participating in certification programs like LIVE (Low Input Viticulture and Enology, Inc.), “Salmon Safe”, organic and sustainable farming practices, and Leadership in Energy and Environmental Design (LEED) Green Building certification.
But it still comes down to what’s in the bottle. As a group, the wines in this report show pure fruit, admirable ripeness and solid acidity. They aren’t inexpensive but most have avoided the price inflation of comparable wines from Burgundy and California.
When it comes to American Pinot noir, few possess the rich history and experience of Ponzi Vineyards. Dick and Nancy Ponzi planted their estate in 1970 within view of the nearby Chehalem Mountains and quickly became leaders in growing the Willamette Valley and Oregon wine in general to international recognition. Daughters Luisa and Maria Ponzi, Winemaker and President respectively, now continue the family tradition. The family also has been in the forefront of the responsible stewardship/sustainable agriculture movement.
And their wines are a fail-safe introduction to the Willamette Valley. The entry-level Tavola (2014, $25), made from younger estate vines and fruit from nearby growers, is a great value. The signature 2013 Willamette Valley ($40) has good balance and length with juicy black cherry and hints of vanilla, anise and sassafras, delivered with a sleek texture. The flagship 2012 Reserve ($60) is complex with abundant aromas and flavors of red berries and oak-imparted vanilla and spice but harmonizes power and elegance.
In 1983, Jim Bernau began planting what became Willamette Valley Vineyards. Since then, he and his partners have displayed innovation and forward thinking – from an intriguing community based funding model (today we call it “crowd funding”) and leadership in the responsible stewardship movement to grow into one of Oregon’s premier wineries.
An example of that creativity is the 2014 Whole Cluster ($22), made using partial carbonic maceration like Beaujolais and stainless steel fermentation. It is bright and fruity with appealing fresh berries. The 2013 Estate ($30) is inviting with lively red cherry and plum and light herb and tobacco notes, finishing with a fine grip. The 2012 Bernau Block ($55) is a single vineyard expression showing admirable complexity with bright red fruits accented by light touches of spice and licorice in a nicely structured frame.
Raptor Ridge is a location in the Chehalem Mountains and the name of the winemaking project Scott Shull founded just 20 years ago. He oversees winemaking and his partner Annie directs marketing and sales. Their 2013 Barrel Select Willamette ($30) is a nice cuvée from multiple vineyard sites; very approachable red and dark fruit, with suggestions of mint and tannin. The 2012 Estate Vineyard ($45) is excellent with ripe and round plum and red cherry scents, noticeable oak, fine tannin, and savory mocha notes on the finish.
Left Coast Cellars is another young winery, in this case founded in 2003 by Suzanne and Robert Pfaff. And they are another Oregon winery dedicated to sustainability and community. Also, the wines are made from estate fruit, even the entry-level 2013 Cali’s Cuvee ($24). Intended for early enjoyment, it’s light flavors of plums and strawberries benefit with a bit of earth. The signature single vineyard wine, 2013 Latitude 45° ($36) displays dark cherry, baking spices and tea leaves delivered in a graceful palate.
Finally, enjoy the first foray into Oregon by California’s Jackson Family Wines, under the moniker of their Pinot Noir and Chardonnay specialist, La Crema. The 2013 Willamette Valley ($30) sports plum and cherry fruit compote in an easily enjoyable style with enticing oak and a lush texture.