I began this series on Pinot Noir with the Burgundy region of France, the historical benchmark for the grape; followed with Oregon Pinot Noir, considered by many to be the Burgundy of the New World. Now it’s California, which knowledgeable consumers know rivals and sometimes exceeds Burgundy and Oregon.
With numerous appellations along a 500-mile stretch from Mendocino to Santa Barbara sourcing fine Pinot Noir, I have had to pare down my report to a shopping list of the best from my recent tastings.
While it remains a challenge to find California Pinot Noir with a consumer friendly price/quality relationship, my tastings did turn up several values. I was especially impressed with the 2012 Alta Maria Santa Maria Valley ($28) and 2013 Jackson Estate Anderson Valley ($30). Each is a spectacular value. The following are solid everyday wines that deliver good quality at a reasonable price:
- 2013 Kendall-Jackson Vintner’s Reserve ($20)
- From Russian River Valley
2012 Frei Brothers Reserve ($27)
2013 Rodney Strong ($25)
2013 Ron Rubin ($25)
- From Monterey
2013 Chloe ($17)
2013 Liberated ($20)
2013 J. Lohr “Falcon’s Perch” ($17)
2012 Wente “Riva Ranch” ($25)
2013 Talbott “Logan” ($25)
Mendocino County: especially the Anderson Valley, and Goldeneye is one of the best. Each of these wines is excellent.
- 2012 Anderson Valley ($55) intense but focused
- 2012 Gowan Creek Vineyard ($82) inviting fruit, enticing herbs
- 2012 Confluence Vineyard ($82) complex, layered
- 2012 The Narrows Vineyard ($82) rich, full and tannic
- 2012 Split Rail Vineyard ($82) wild berry and dried herb
- 2012 Ten Degrees ($115) complete and balanced
Russian River Valley: one of two top Sonoma County sources of world class Pinot
- 2012 MacRostie ($42) like cherry pie with baking spices
- 2012 Patz & Hall “Chenoweth Ranch” ($60) structured opulence from one of the best of the tasting
Sonoma Coast: California’s newest “hot” region for Pinot Noir but Cobb Wines was one of the first there 26 years ago.
- 2012 Diane Cobb: Coastlands Vineyard ($85) a spectacular wine of vivid fruit, enticing texture and dramatic earthbound complexity
Two other Cobb wines were remarkable for their abundant flavor despite low alcohol:
- 2012 Emmaline Ann Vineyard ($75) subtle but extremely well defined
- 2012 Rice-Spivak Vineyard ($75) deep with a bright beam of red fruit
Other top notch Sonoma Coast:
- 2012 MacRostie Goldrock Ridge ($54) dominant earth and spice nearly equaled by concentrated fruit
- 2013 Patz & Hall “Jenkins Ranch” ($60) top tier for its impressive complexity, packed with layers of fruit and savory qualities
- 2013 Patz & Hall Sonoma Coast ($46) lush, lively fruit
- 2013 Patz & Hall “Gap’s Crown Vineyard” ($70) powerful sweet oak and fruit with the right touch of earth
Carneros: Straddling the southern end of Sonoma and Napa
- 2012 Patz & Hall “Hyde Vineyard” ($70) an amazing rich, complex, harmonious, and pure wine, one of the most remarkable wines of my tastings
- 2012 Frank Family Carneros ($35) deep, ripe black cherry accented with light oak and sleek texture
Monterey County: From one of the region’s Pinot Noir pioneers, several of Talbott Vineyards wines starred in my tastings.
Two wines from their first vineyard reflect different selections of Dijon clones:
- 2012 Diamond T ($52) distinguished by deep, dark fruit, strong spice and heady alcohol
- 2012 Diamond T “RFT” ($75) red berries and sharp acidity, less herbal but plenty of richness
Santa Lucia Highlands: a highly regarded Monterey sub-appellation
- 2013 Talbott “Sarah Case” Sleepy Hollow Vineyard ($75) dramatic savory mushroom and bracing acidity
- 2012 Patz & Hall Pisoni Vineyard ($90) a complete portfolio of fantastic fruit, oak, earth and texture, highly recommended
Santa Barbara County: rivalling with Sonoma as California’s best Pinot Noir region
- 2012 Alta Maria “Bien Nacido Vineyard” Santa Maria Valley ($48) rich, layered, full flavored and extremely spicy
- 2012 Sea Smoke Santa Ynez Valley “Southing” ($60) elegant and seductive, rich and full bodied with beautifully concentrated fruit, a stunning wine