One of my favorite things about the holiday season is it provides prime opportunities to open special bottles of wine. And what makes a special occasion even more special? For many people, it’s a bottle of sparkling wine. Whether for parties, toasts, or even better a holiday meal, the holidays are prime time for indulging a bit if bubbly.
Of course, Champagne gets most of the buzz but effervescent wine is so popular, there are versions made in virtually every wine region. This column focuses on these other effervescent wines.
There is a lot of good French sparkling wine beyond Champagne (designated Crémant) and most are made using the “Methode Champenoise” (the Champagne Method where the second fermentation occurs in the bottle) but still much more affordable.
Crémant d’Alsace is one of the best of these. It typically is light and fruity but offers a nice measure of complexity. I found two Brut Rosés from two of the most important Crémant producers in Alsace, both 100% pinot noir. The Lucien Albrecht ($22) offers a crisp taste of strawberry and has finesse. The Pierre Sparr ($19) has fresh aromas of soft red berries and delicate, fruity flavors and lively acidity.
Crémant de Limoux comes from vineyards surrounding the town of Limoux in the Languedoc-Rousillon region, which lays claim to producing sparkling wine by a second fermentation in the bottle long before Champagne. Domaines Paul Mas “Cote Mas” Brut ($16), a blend of 60% chardonnay, 20% chenin blanc, 10% pinot noir and 10% mauzac, has enticing flowery, citrus and toast on the nose and pleasant pear, apple and lemon flavors.
Spanish Cava, also is produced by the traditional method. Long an affordable alternative to Champagne, it uses indigenous grapes (macabeo, xarel-lo, parellada) grown in the Penedès Valley in Catalonia not far from Barcelona.
Two of the most reliable producers are Codorníu and Paul Cheneau. Anna de Codorníu Brut ($15) celebrates the life of Codorníu’s last heiress. It was the first Cava to use chardonnay in its cuvee, 70 percent in this release that reveals some richness with a solid structure and a creamy texture. The Paul Cheneau Brut ($14) suggests a French influence with a creamy elegance and structure.
One of the best California sparkling wine producers, Gloria Ferrer, actually has a Spanish connection:it was founded by owners of Freixenet, the world’s largest producer of Methode Champenoise. Its impressive line of sparklers includes the Sonoma Brut ($22) is dominated by pinot noir with a touch of chardonnay. It best reflects the house style of fresh white fruits and mildly toasty elements delivered with a delicate, sleek texture. As a contrast, the Blanc de Blancs ($22) is all chardonnay. It’s crisp with citrus, apple and creamy vanilla. The Blanc de Noirs ($22) tantalizes with sweet sensations of pretty red fruits. Then presents a luscious palate that finishes with zest. Finally, the 2007 Royal Cuvée Brut Late Disgorged ($37) composed of 2/3 pinot noir and 1/3 chardonnay is the peak of Gloria Ferrer production. Apple, citrus, cherry, and vanilla make delightful appearances with a rich, creamy texture and a crisp finish.
Prosecco, from the hills north of Venice around the towns of Conegliano and Valdobbiadene, is made predominantly using the native glera grape using the Charmat Method. The bubbles are produced in large stainless steel tanks to preserve glera’s fresh aromas and clean, delicate fruit. Prosecco. With its soft bubbles and low alcohol it makes a great aperitif, probably why it is the traditional base for the famous Venetian cocktail, the Bellini.
One of its premier producers boasting a tradition in the area to 1542, is Bisol whose Desidero JEIO Brut ($17) shows delightful fresh apple, apricot and citrus. A real treat, the 2014 Crede Brut ($25) is an impressive single vineyard selection with a delicate mousse but intense fruit.
Other fine Prosecco worth seeking out: Mionetto Brut Treviso ($15) is a bit floral, with intense, fresh fruit; Mionetto Gran Rose Extra Dry ($15) is a fun alternative with red currant and pomegranate; Villa Sandi ($) produces another fine Prosecco from Treviso with ripe apple; Valdo Brut “Oro Puro” ($20) offers a fresh, lively style with evidence of greater complexity and fuller flavors.