Whether you realize it or not most wines you drink are blends of multiple grapes from different vineyards, even the ones varietally labeled. And more and more, wineries are featuring wines specifically as blends.
Last November, the consumer survey company, Nielsen identified a growing trend toward more red wine blends, even calling red blends “currently the craft beer of the wine category.” The report also stated “more than 40% of the new entries in 2014 were blends, with more than three quarters of these being reds. No other wine type has even come close to the same amount of new offerings to market.”
For many, the Bordeaux formula of blending various percentages of cabernet sauvignon, merlot, cabernet franc, malbec, and petit verdot is the template. For others, the “Super Tuscans” of Italy are the benchmark, though usually substituting zinfandel for sangiovese. Still others take southern France as their inspiration, blending grapes like syrah, grenache, mourvedre, and petite sirah. Finally, some mix and match various grapes to achieve a desired style.
Try any of the wines below (reviewed roughly in order of preference within each category) and you will taste the synergy winemakers can achieve in creating a product that embodies the classic sentiment of the whole being greater than the sum of its parts.
One of the best wines of my tasting, the Bordeaux-style 2012 Franciscan “Magnificat” ($55), is 73% cabernet sauvignon, 19% merlot, 3% petit verdot, 3% malbec and 2% cabernet franc. Solid structure and luscious currant and plum are accented with spice, licorice and firm tannins. Nearly as good, the 2012 Dry Creek Vineyard “The Mariner” ($45) – 56% cabernet sauvignon, 25% merlot, 8% petit verdot, 8% malbec and 3% cabernet franc – impresses for its framing of lush dark fruits, dried herbs and spice.
Two other worthy choices: 2012 Leviathan ($48) – 45% cabernet sauvignon, 25% cabernet franc, 16% merlot and 14% syrah – dense, sweet berries, creamy, cedary notes, smooth texture but tannic backbone; 2013 Taken Napa Valley Red Wine ($30) – 60% cabernet sauvignon and 40% merlot – easy drinking with dark fruits, roasted notes and a refreshing finish
And then there is J. Lohr, which takes the exploration of Bordeaux blends so seriously their “Cuvée Series” (2012, $50) explores three of the main regions of Bordeaux.
- Cuvée POM. Imitating Pomerol – 78% merlot, 14% malbec, 5% cabernet franc, and 3% cabernet sauvignon present powerful tannin and woodsy elements, accented with strong dark fruits
- Cuvée PAU. fashioned after Pauillac – 76% cabernet sauvignon, 10% malbec, 8% merlot, 5% petit verdot, and 1% cabernet franc result in jammy plum and currant, wrapped in forest notes with a touch of tobacco and smooth tannins
- Cuvée ST. E. taking Saint-Émilion as its model – 55% cabernet franc, 34% merlot, 8% malbec, and 3% cabernet sauvignon – rich black fruits and smoky, dusty oak with earthy notes and a suggestion of pencil lead; finishes with strong but disciplined tannins
While J. Lohr’s Cuvee series uses Bordeaux as its reference, Duckhorn Winery’s Paraduxx project for the most part emulates Super Tuscans, with zinfandel standing in for sangiovese.
- 2013 Paraduxx Napa Valley ($48) – 73% cabernet sauvignon, 13% merlot, 10% zinfandel, 4% petit verdot – strong tobacco and mint notes and solid tannins
- 2012 Atlas Peak ($80) – 65% cabernet sauvignon, 35% zinfandel – firm structure from cab complimented with bright zin berry fruit finishing with a touch of spice
- 2012 Paraduxx Howell Mountain ($80) – 60% zinfandel, 40% cabernet sauvignon – dense red fruits with strong mouthfeel and strong tannic finish
- 2012 Rector Creek Vineyard ($80) – 70% zinfandel, 30% cabernet sauvignon – really shows lively, brambly zin fruit with a complex, focused structure
- 2012 “X2” ($95) – 90% cabernet sauvignon, 10% zinfandel – pronounced “X squared,” its intense, complex, barrel selection
Two other worthy choices: 2012 Cuttings ($50) – mostly cabernet sauvignon with the rest petite sirah and zinfandel – very ripe fruit with peppery spice and round texture; 2013 Field Stone “Convivio” ($16) – 74% merlot, 19% sangiovese, 5% malbec, 2% cabernet sauvignon – noticeable wood, fresh fruit, firm tannins.
Other good examples that don’t necessarily follow any pattern:
2013 Edmeades “Edmeades’ Folly” ($26) – 47% zinfandel, 23% syrah, 15% merlot, 15% petit sirah – from Mendocino, nice sleek sensation burst with juicy berries and good grip
2013 Beast “Wildebeest” ($25) – 59% syrah, 14% cabernet sauvignon, 11% cabernet franc, 8% malbec 7% Grenache, 1% merlot – bright fruit, lively texture, easy drinking
2013 Conundrum ($25) – mostly zinfandel, with petite sirah, cabernet sauvignon, cabernet franc, merlot – sweet red fruits, mint, light tannins
2013 Decoy Red Wine Sonoma County ($25) – 25% merlot, 20% cabernet sauvignon, 15% zinfandel, 15% cabernet franc, 11% petit sirah, 9% petit verdot, and 5% malbec – dark fruits, forest notes, firm impact, clean finish
2013 Taken “Complicated” ($20) – mostly grenache and syrah and a bit of carignan – ripe, juicy berries, touch of pepper, black licorice, smooth texture
2013 Hess Select “Treo” Winemaker’s Red Blend ($19) – 33% petit sirah, 26% syrah, 22% zinfandel, 25% cabernet franc, 16% merlot – nice plum, savory notes, good body, fresh finish
Nonvintage Q & A Red Wine ($15) – merlot and cabernet sauvignon, with ruby cabernet, and petit sirah – opens with pepper and anise, nice spicy zin fruit
2014 Oak Grove “Winemaker’s Red” Family Reserve ($9) – 50% zinfandel, 35% cabernet sauvignon, 15% petite sirah – pie-like plum fruit, soft and juicy, lightly spicy finish