THINK PINK FOR SUMMER’S WINE DRINK
DRY pink wines finally seem to be gaining appreciation in this country. Of course, sweet “blush” wines have been popular for years. Europeans, on the other hand, have known for a long time the joy of drinking a good dry pink wine. The most common term is Rosé (French) but you may also see Rosato (Italian) and Rosado (Spanish).
Expect bright, fresh fruit aromas and flavors of strawberry, cherry, raspberry, or cranberry. Some even exhibit a red wine level of intensity, body and complexity. But the best always display fresh fruit aromas and flavors that approximate the profile of their red siblings but drink more like white wines. Because of their vibrant freshness and lively fruit, pinks are almost always best drunk young, so look for the most recent vintages available.
There are essentially three ways to make a pink wine. The most common method is to crush red grapes and leave the juice in contact with the grape skins (the source of a wine’s color) only briefly. The second technique is a process called “saignée” in which a certain amount of juice is “bled off” shortly after red grapes are crushed. The third approach involves blending white and red wines to the desired effect.
Most wine producing countries now have gotten into the act with a wide variety of grapes.
Among Rosé devotees, France is the prime source. There is a dizzying array of French Rosés from all over the country but most notably the south – places like Provence, Languedoc-Roussillon, Bandol, Cotes-du-Rhone, and Tavel. Rosé from Provence in particular offers consistent quality at reasonable prices.
Rosé from Provence in particular offers consistent quality at reasonable prices. Generally blends dominated by grenache supplemented with syrah and cinsault, my favorite in the tasting was the organically grown 2015 Chateau Sainte Marguerite “Symphony” (40% grenache, 40% cinsault, 20% syrah, $29), followed closely by the 2015 Domaine Saint Aix “AIX” (60% grenache, 20% syrah 15% cinsault, 5% carignan, $19) and 2015 Maison Belle Claire (55% grenache, 25% syrah, 20% cinsault, $15).
Other good choices from France included the 2015 Chateau d’Oupia Minervois (syrah, grenache and cinsault, $17) and the 2014 Saget La Perrière “La Petite Perrière” Loire Valley (100% pinot noir, $14). The best of the bunch, though, was the 2013 Domaine de la Mordoree “la Dame Rousse” (50% grenache, 30% syrah, 20% cinsault, $20). This Cotes-du-Rhone offered focused fruit, balanced with unique richness and complexity.
France’s neighbors also are reliable sources. Here’s a line up of my favorites:
Spain:
2015 Hacienda de Arinzano Rosé de Tempranillo ($20): fresh cherry and raspberry
2015 Vina Real Rioja (85% viura [white grape] and 15% tempranillo, $14): citrus and peach
2015 Cune (CVNE) (100% tempranillo, $14): fresh and tasty strawberry and raspberry
Italy:
2015 Falesco “Vitano” Umbria (30% sangiovese, 30% merlot, 30% cabernet sauvignon, 10% aleatico, $12): juicy strawberries, vibrant cranberry
Portugal:
2015 La Defesa (70% aragonez [Portuguese version of tempranillo] and 30% syrah, $13): raspberries, cherry, watermelon, spice and earth
Other good choices (from places you might not have expected!):
2014 Galil Mountain Galilee (a unique combination of 74% sangiovese, 23% pinot noir, 3% grenache, $12): tangy cherry and raspberry, creamy texture
2015 Villa Wolf Pinot Noir Rosé (from Germany’s Pfalz, $12): spicy cherry and raspberry
2015 Los Vascos Chile (90% cabernet sauvignon, 10% syrah, $14): lovely, creamy cherry, nicely tart
I also have been pleased to find improved quality from California and Oregon:
More good Grenache Rosé:
2015 J. Lohr “Gesture” Paso Robles ($18): juicy, hint of sweetness
2015 Halter Ranch Paso Robles (67% Grenache, 22% Picpoul Blanc, 8% Mourvèdre and 3% Syrah, $21): zesty, tangy raspberry
For you Pinot Noir lovers, these are really satisfying :
2015 Ponzi Willamette Valley ($22): pure, lightly tart cherry and spice
2015 Stoller Dundee Hills ($25): crisp pomegranate and light spice
2015 Willamette Valley Vineyards ($24): earthy, intense spicy cherry
2015 Martin Ray Russian River Valley ($20) savory, creamy plum
2015 Cuvaison “Vin Gris” Napa Valley ($20): firm strawberry and citrus
2014 Balletto Russian River Valley ($18): delightfully fresh citrus and strwberry
And the zinfandel-based 2015 Head High (49% zinfandel, 44% syrah, 4% grenache, 3% tempranillo, $18) offers spicy red berries with a surprisingly creamy texture.
Finally, you can’t beat some fine bubbly during the hot weather:
Ferrari Rosé Trento (pinot nero and chardonnay, $36) vibrant, rich cherry, strawberry
Lucien Albrecht Cremant d’Alsace Brut Rosé (100% pinot noir, $22) strawberry and raspberry with a saline note
Bisol Desiderio “Jeio” Cuvee Rosé (merlot and pinot nero, $17) light, fresh and crisp
And two 100% pinot noir sparkling splurges worth their high cost:
2012 Sea Smoke “Sea Spray” L.D. Blanc de Noirs Santa Lucia Highlands ($80): complex and full, yet elegant
Laurent-Perrier Champagne “Cuvee Rosé” Brut ($99): intense, luxurious and structured, yet drinks with finesse
[Featured Image courtesy of Provence Wine Council]