CRISP, FRESH MEDITERRANEAN WHITES PERFECT FOR SUMMER
As hot as it’s been this summer one would be forgiven for thinking we somehow have been transported to the Mediterranean. Of course, instead of beautiful ocean views, we have beautiful mountain views. But we still can enjoy some crisp, refreshing white wines from Mediterranean countries.
Italy, Spain and Portugal are all countries best known for their reds but their whites can be ideal choices for summer. While there are important differences, they all share enticing aromatic and occasionally mineral notes but mostly a welcome freshness and vibrancy of fruit. With a couple of notable exceptions, these are light, dry wines to sip, gulp and simply enjoy. And they come with the added intrigue of mostly be made from indigenous grapes.
Although Italy’s Pinot Grigio is a clone of France’s Pinot Gris, it is widely planted throughout northeastern Italy and is Italy’s best-known “Bianco.” And many of the best come from the Alto Adige (also called Südtirol in German or South Tyrol in English) near the Dolomiti Mountains nestled between Switzerland and Austria. Importantly, the wines recommended here are not your average light, fruity quaffers.
My favorite was the 2013 Tramin “Unterebner” ($24), a surprisingly complex single vineyard wine of lemon, cashew and caramel, amazing quality from this cooperative of growers. Nearly as good were the 2014 Terlan ($24) – fresh tangerine and pear from a 120 year old producer and the 2015 Erste+Neue ($19) – crisp citrus and peach from one of the oldest cooperatives in the region.
I also enjoyed the 2015 Alois Lageder “Porer” ($25) for stone fruit and mineral notes. The citrusy 2015 Castelfeder “Luna Nuda” ($15) is a solid everyday choice.
And Italy has interesting Bianco beyond Pinot Grigio. Also from Alto Adige, try the 2014 Alois Lageder Gewürztraminer ($25) with lychee, apricot and viscous texture. The 2015 Castelfeder “Vom Stein” Pinot Bianco ($17) impresses with lush green apple and lime.
And here are three very fine wines from central Italy. Abruzzo: stony, plummy 2015 Villa Gemma Colline Teatine (trebbiano grape, $20); Umbria: honeyed peach and pear of 2014 Terre de la Custodia “Grechetto Colli Martani” ($20); Lazio: the creamy, nutty green citrus and caramel of 2012 Falesco “Ferentano” (roscetto grape, $25) from the producer that hs put this relatively unknown region on the wine map.
In Spain, the albariño of Rías Baixas (near the northwestern, Galician coast) has gained the most prestige. My favorite was the 2014 Sin Palabras “Castrovaldés” ($20) from Castro Brey for its lemon, mineral and suggestion of sea breeze.
Close behind was the 2014 Terras Gauda “O Rosal” ($24), for lively citrus, orange and peach deepened with an earthy touch. The winery’s 2014 Abadía de San Campio ($20) pleases with tropical fruit and a nice round texture. The 2014 Pablo Padin “Segrel” ($14) is a good introduction to the grape.
From the Rioja, the 2015 CVNE “Monopole” ($13) is produced using local viura, which, like its namesake macabeo in Penedes, is noted for its aromatics and acidity, in this case honey, lemon, apple and a touch of quinine. Still family-owned, five generations CVNE has been making wine since 1879 and Monopole for 100 years.
Across the border from Rias Baixas, the “green wine” of Portugal’s Vinho Verde region traditionally has received the most buzz among those in the wine industry. But the savvy consumer also should look to the whites of the Alentejo region southeast of Lisbon.
Herdade do Esporão, a leading Portuguese family winery since 1267 in the forefront of introducing Portuguese whites to the modern world, has fashioned several excellent values:
2014 “Duas Castas” 2 ($13), gouveio and antão vaz grapes yield a fruity, enticingly aromatic wine with bracing acidity;
2015 Verdelho V ($16) for tangy green citrus and good concentration;
2014 “Monte Velho” ($10) blends antão vaz, roupeiro and perrum for creamy cashew, green citrus and a grassy note;
2013 “Alandra” ($7), antão vaz, arinto and perrum deliver nutty, creamy apple and lime.
[Featured Image Courtesy of International Riesling Foundation]