From what I read in industry publications, Australian wine has been struggling in export markets recently, including the U.S., at least compared to the days when easy drinking volume brands dominated. Regardless, there has continued to be plenty of quality wines available for those who care to look for them. I sampled a few recently and found the wines below, especially the Yangarra, to be solid reds delivering fine value for the money. They emphasize quality over quantity.
- 2014 Insurrection Shiraz/Cabernet Sauvignon ($17). From cool climate regions of South Eastern Australia (Barossa Valley, Langhorne Creek and Padthaway), its 15% alcohol is consistent with its bold red fruits, mocha and powerful impact.
- 2013 Criterion Collection Cabernet Sauvignon Reserva ($17). This negociant sources wines from select regions around the globe. This one comes from Coonawarra in South Australia, a region coveted for fine Cabs, and shows nice plum with a hint of eucalyptus.
- 2014 Robert Oatley Cabernet Sauvignon Signature Series ($23). Regarded as one of Australia’s top winemakers for forty years, Oatley’s team uses fruit from the Western Australian region of Margaret River. It offers classic cab notes of dark berries and tobacco.
- 2013 Yangarra Grenache Old Vine ($32). I’ve enjoyed several previous vintages of this wine and the 2013 does not disappoint. From a biodynamically farmed vineyard in McLaren Vale, South Australia, these old vines have yielded a full, rich wine with intense dark berry fruit and intriguing meaty qualities.
By comparison, New Zealand wine has gained in popularity in the U.S. in recent years. Industry data shows the U.S. is now New Zealand’s biggest export market by volume. Admittedly, this is mostly on the strength of its unique style of Sauvignon Blanc, which now ranks second in the U.S. market among imported varietals by origin. Here’s a couple of white’s worth seeking out.
- 2015 Giesen Sauvignon Blanc ($15). From Marlborough on the South Island this family owned winery has fashioned a wine that displays light touches of the characteristic green fruits (gooseberry and lime) with a crisp, tart finish.
- 2014 Kim Crawford Unoaked Chardonnay ($17). Illustrating the popularity of New Zealand wine, Impact Databank lists Kim Crawford as the fourth largest wine brand priced above $14 in the U.S. This wine from the South Island’s East Coast expresses its tropical and citrus fruits unencumbered by oak, yet still drinks with enjoyable nutty tones and creamy texture.
New Zealand also has gained much attention rightly for Pinot Noir. Especially Pinot Noir from the South Island region of Central Otago, these wines tend to earthiness and harmonious purity of fruit.
- The 2012 Loveblock Pinot Noir ($34) is a good example of this. This winery is the labor of love of Erica and Kim Crawford (yes, that Kim Crawford). The wine’s estate grown grapes (their “Someone’s Darling Vineyard”) benefit from the location in a warmer area of Central Otago, typically a cooler growing region. It’s bright red fruit aromas are accented with a touch of baking spice and drink crisply with good concentration.
- The 2013 Trinity Hill Pinot Noir ($17) from the North Island region of Hawkes Bay, shows New Zealand can produce quality value priced Pinot, this time from Hawkes Bay this one shows New Zealand can produce quality value priced Pinot, this time from Hawkes Bay.
Trinity Hill’s 2013 ”The Trinity” ($17) also is evidence that other New Zealand reds can provide good value. A blend of 69% merlot, 15% tempranillo, 8% malbec, 4% touriga, and 4% cabernet franc, it has varietal notes of strawberry and cranberry with light spice and a slightly bitter finish. It is pleasantly earthy and fresh with a slightly bitter finish.
South Africa is the other Southern Hemisphere nation coming on strong in the wine world. Although grapes have been grown there for 366 years, it is really only within the last 25 that South African wine has emerged in international markets. Among the red wines, pinotage is South Africa’s most unique grape, while cabernet sauvignon is the most planted. But whites also are worth attention. Here are just a few examples.
- I was intrigued with the 2014 Bellingham “Pinopasso” ($19), pinotage made in the manner of appassimento (drying the grapes to concentrate the juice) to honor the Italian prisoners of war who had been taken to South Africa during World War II and worked at Bellingham. From the Insignia Series, this is delivers assertive cherry and wild berry fruit with hints of cocoa.
- 2012 Kanonkop “Kadette” ($15). This entry-level blend of 54% pinotage, 29% cabernet sauvignon, 10% merlot, and 7% cabernet franc is a lot of wine for not a lot of money. From Stellenbosch, the center the South African wine industry, it is a bit rustic but has juicy dark fruits, hints of black olive and tea with a crisp finish
- Another blend from Stellenbosch, the 2013 Mulderbosch Faithful Hound ($25) is a Bordeaux-style mix of 39% cabernet sauvignon, 22% cabernet franc, 16% merlot, 14% malbec, and 9% petit verdot. It drinks full with solid structure and pleasing currant and blackberry offset by notes of tobacco
- Finally, a solid white wine choice is the 2013 Groot Constantia Sauvignon Blanc “Landgoed” ($20). From the first wine estate established at the Cape of Good Hope (1685), this is clean and fresh with green fruits and green herbs and is slightly spicy.