As a settler that came to America from humble origins in Europe (Croatia and southern Italy) and flourished, zinfandel is the quintessentially American grape.
Zinfandel is particularly successful in California. The exuberance and zesty raspberry, cherry and blackberry fruit in these typically bold wines often is accented with spice and a little wild character. They also are great values. Even as prices have crept up in recent years, most of the best wines are under $40. Most of the wines in this column are under $25.
While there are several locations in California where the grape does well, Sonoma County offers particularly hospitable climes. For instance, thirty-year-old Murphy-Goode, which offers a fine lineup notable for whimsical gaming related names, produced the 2013 “Liar’s Dice” ($21), a welcoming blend of Dry Creek Valley and Alexander Valley fruit offering jammy raspberry and black cherry with just a touch of spice.
The Kunde family winemaking history in Sonoma Valley goes back to 1904. Their 2014 ($22) from estate grown, sustainably farmed fruit serves up plump blackberry and baking spice with a supple texture.
In the Dry Creek Valley, the Dry Creek Vineyard has pioneered the grape since its founding in 1972. The 2014 “Heritage Vines” ($22) is the winery’s successful attempt to combine old vine character (rustic, concentrated) with young vine qualities (fresh, elegant). “Heritage” refers to young vines grafted from 100-year-old budwood. This one is toasty, with intense fruit.
With the same winemaker since 1979, Rodney Strong has become a premier Sonoma winery. The 2013 “Knotty Vines” ($25) deftly blends of old vine Russian River Valley, Dry Creek Valley and Alexander Valley fruit. Its blue and black fruits come with anise and woodsy and spicy notes in a solid but inviting frame.
Decoy is the entry level brand in the Duckhorn portfolio of wines. Their 2014 ($25) blends fruit from various Sonoma County sources. It is well-balanced, elegant yet juicy with intense fruit, fresh anise and wood notes.
Although Ridge Vineyards actually is located in the Santa Cruz Mountains near San Jose, Paul Draper (who just retired from Ridge after over fifty years at the helm) has been a leading proponent of Sonoma County Zinfandel. During that time, Ridge has specialized in vineyard specific Zinfandels from all over the state but mostly Sonoma.
The 2014 Geyserville ($40) from Alexander Valley actually is what is called a “field blend” (including petite sirah, carignane, and mataro). So, the resulting wine is only 60% zinfandel. It is full flavored and focused but elegant, with a touch of white pepper. Ridge has been making a wine from this 130-year-old vineyard since 1966. The 2014 Ridge East Bench ($30) is quintessential Dry Creek Valley as it bursts with jammy, spicy cherry fruit accented with baking spices. Unusual for Ridge, it is 100% zinfandel. It is a worthy addition to the iconic Lytton Springs Vineyard wine, also from Dry Creek Valley.
Of course, I like Zinfandel all year long, especially with spicy foods. But it really shines with the barbecue and grilled foods particularly enjoyable this time of year.
NOTE: Featured Image Photo Courtesy of Dry Creek Vineyard