In the 1990’s, the popularity of California Merlot wines grew exponentially among American consumers. According to The Wine Institute, just over 15,000 tons were crushed in 1990, while over 292,000 were crushed in 2004! American consumers were drawn to the easy drinking approachable style producers were peddling.
Then, “Sideways” (the movie) happened. With this Pinot Noir-centric movie’s seeming disparaging of Merlot, suddenly the wines became suspect, even though some of the great wines of the world are made predominately of merlot. But reports of Merlot’s death were exaggerated. While production actually is down a bit, Merlot remains popular.
Luckily, there are plenty of quality minded producers that showcase Merlot’s best attributes. One of those is Chris Carpenter, longtime winemaker at the highly regarded, Kendall-Jackson owned wineries Cardinale and Lokoya.
“If farmed right, and treated similar to cabernet sauvignon, merlot can be great, just as it is in other countries [like France and Italy].” Carpenter proves this by making two amazing wines in my tasting: the 2013 Mt. Brave ($75) and 2013 La Jota ($85).
These are serious, complex, full-bodied wines that show how great Merlot can be. Mt. Brave is from vineyards on Mt. Veeder on the western side of the valley. LaJota is from Howell Mountain on the eastern side. Importantly, both mountain vineyards are located above the fog line, meaning moderate temperatures and more sunshine. The Mt. Brave is deep black cherry fruit, chocolate, cocoa, spice, a plump, fleshy. The La Jota dense, loads of mocha, lead-pencil, black cherry and plum spices, full-bodied, opulent, mouth-coating
Of course, there have always been quality minded Merlot producers that persisted even during that period when many wineries treated Merlot like the new White Zinfandel, as Carpenter described it.
Matanzas Creek has been a standard bearer for the grape since its first vintage in 1977. The exquisite 2012 Jackson Park Vineyard ($60), from estate vineyards near the winery in Bennett Valley, is the premier offering from their Merlot portfolio. It shows abundant red fruit, complex mineral, cedar and savory qualities, and power.
Duckhorn also has been a Merlot pioneer, having released its first Merlot in 1978 and since establishing a reputation as one of California’s best Merlot producers. They now make several single vineyard wines but the Napa Valley is a fine introduction to the collection. The 2013 ($54) is solid, focused, softer, lush, but some crispness, dark cherry and blueberry, spice, sleek, cherry, licorice
The next tier of wines I found worth recommending, include several less expensive but still fine samples from the Napa Valley. The 2012 Swanson Napa Valley ($38), from a winery that dedicated itself to Merlot from its first vintage in 1987, shows skillful blending of red and black fruits, cedar and herbal notes, and power with a lush texture. Others worth seeking out:
- 2013 Freemark Abbey ($34) enticing with abundant, lush fruit
- 2012 Grgich Hills ($43) well structured with concentrated, ripe fruit
- 2013 Peju ($38) sweet fruit with defined tannins
If you are looking for even more affordable Merlots, you won’t sacrifice much quality with these reliable producers. Markham, for instance, has been a leader in producing user-friendly, fruit-forward Merlots. The 2014 Markham Napa Valley ($25) is silky and inviting with soft mouthfeel and toasty, mocha, herbal back notes. Other satisfying choices:
- 2012 Clos du Val Napa Valley ($28) full-bodied, velvety
- 2012 Matanzas Creek Sonoma County ($28) crisp, savory
- 2013 Kendall-Jackson Grand Reserve ($26) fruitful, dense
- 2014 Decoy Sonoma Valley ($25) creamy, sleek
- 2014 Kunde Sonoma Valley ($22) fresh, lively
Finally, a handful of good, easy on your pocketbook wines ideal for everyday and holiday parties. At $15, the 2014 Liberty School Central Coast, 2014 J. Lohr “Los Osos” ($15), and 2013 Murphy Goode California are easy drinking, yet flavorful.