With the blistering weather, it’s natural for wine drinkers to think about cooling off with a refreshing white wine. While most U.S. consumers still turn first to Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc is an ideal alternative.
Sauvignon Blanc’s flavor profile comes in several styles. Generally expect brisk green citrus (lime, gooseberry) but also other citrus, especially grapefruit and a distinctive herbaceousness. Some also are evocative of fresh cut hay or oats. Occasionally, a sample is reminiscent of peach, melon or even tropical fruits. It’s typically quite aromatic, with refreshing acidity. These qualities make it an exceptional accompaniment to food, especially the lighter foods of summer.
It has a noble heritage as a parent (with cabernet franc) of cabernet sauvignon. It is responsible for the Loire Valley wines of Sancerre and Pouilly Fume and, with semillon, the white Bordeaux of Graves and Sauternes. The grape also has found hospitable surroundings in New Zealand, South Africa, Australia, and Chile. Here I focus on California.
Most of the wines are fermented and aged in stainless steel to emphasize varietal characteristics, while some use small amounts of mostly neutral oak to round out flavors and texture. Somewhat of a surprise to me, I found a large number of wines worthy of recommendation.
There are a number of good everyday values at $20 and under. These tend to be lighter with the focus on varietal fruit. Think of them as everyday patio sippers. Choose among (listed in order of price):
- 2015 Kendal-Jackson Vintner’s Reserve ($13) succulent lemongrass
- 2016 Dry Creek Vineyard Sonoma County Fume ($14) pleasantly bitter, like tonic water
- 2015 Benziger North Coast ($15) brisk minerality
- 2016 Matanzas Creek Sonoma County ($15) crisp herbal
- 2015 Tom Gore ($15) lively grassy
- 2015 Kunde Magnolia Lane ($17) peach, melon
- 2016 Hanna Russian River Valley ($20) brisk, fruit forward
- 2016 Charles Krug St. Helena-Napa Valley ($18) gentle, herbal
- 2016 Martin Ray Russian River Valley ($20) lush citrus/tropical blend
- 2016 Decoy Sonoma County ($20) melon, herbal, soft
- 2016 Dry Creek Vineyard Dry Creek Valley ($20) tropical lemongrass
As consumer friendly as these wines are, I found more complexity and flavor interest as prices escalated. The wines below are listed in order of price.
- 2016 Star Lane “Happy Canyon” Santa Barbara ($22) gooseberry, herbs
- 2015 Cadaretta “sbs” Columbia Valley ($23) with 20 percent semillon, steely minerally, melon
- 2016 Cliff Lede Napa Valley ($25) rounded, juicy melon, lemongrass, fig
- 2016 Clif Family RTE Blanc ($28) expressive persistent melon, peach,fig
- 2016 Ladera Napa Valley ($30) touch of oak, piney note 2016
- 2015 Galerie “Naissance” Napa Valley ($30) delicate, lychee, stone, citrus
- 2016 Duckhorn Napa Valley ($30) lush oak, licorice, melon, fig
- 2016 Clos du Val Napa Valley ($30) brisk, green fruits, mineral
- 2015 Stonestreet Alexander Valley Estate ($35) complex grassy, lemon citrus
Finally, here are two wines with prices in the stratosphere but plenty of intrigue to tempt consumers to open their wallet.
The 2014 Chimney Rock “Elevage” ($48) features a unique blend of sauvignon blanc and sauvignon gris, which is variously described as a clone, cousin or genetic variant of sauvignon blanc.
Occupying rarified air for Sauvignon Blanc is the 2014Michael Mondavi Family “Animo” Heritage ($65). The inaugural vintage of this wine sources fruit from a special cutting of what are believed to be the oldest sauvignon blanc vines in North America. The wine finds balance between vibrant peach and citrus fruit and firm acidity with a fairly austere finish.