Whether you realize it or not most wines you drink are blends of multiple grapes (even those varietally labeled) from different vineyards. And industry sales data reveal more wineries these days are featuring wines specifically as blends.
Yes, certain grapes are popular for a reason and make fine wine flying solo, usually something to do with distinctive aromas, flavors or overall character. But just as cultural diversity is a societal strength, so winemakers of all stripes have found varietal diversity to have unique benefits. Try any of the wines below (reviewed in order of preference within each category) and you will taste the synergy in a product that embodies the classic sentiment of the whole being greater than the sum of its parts.
For many, the Bordeaux formula blending various percentages of cabernet sauvignon, merlot, cabernet franc, malbec, and petit verdot is the template. For a winery that produces over 1.6 million cases of wine a year, J. Lohr maintains impressive quality at all price points. For our purposes here, a case in point is the Cuvée Series, which takes the exploration of Bordeaux blends so seriously theiy explore three of the main regions of Bordeaux. I’ve recommended these before and the current vintage (2014, $50) continues to impress.
Cuvée POM (Pomerol) 82% merlot + 18% malbec; my favorite of the trio; rich, succulent black cherry and plum, savory chocolate and spices, aroma of fresh soil, full-bodied; drinks supple and juicy, with refined tannins, seamlessly balanced
Cuvée PAU (Pauillac) 68% Cabernet Sauvignon, 14% Malbec; 11% petit verdot + 7% merlot; rich, luscious dark berries; intriguing interplay of savory, sweet and oak elements; quite full with a velvety texture
Cuvée ST. E (Saint-Émilion) 59% cabernet franc, 33% cabernet sauvignon, 7% malbec + 1% petit verdot; juicy plum and blackberry; with roasted notes and hints of oak; fleshy mouthfeel
The wines below are variations on the classic Bordeaux-style blend. Listed in order of preference, each should improve and drink well for the next ten years.
2014 Charles Krug “Generations” Family Reserve ($60) 84% cabernet sauvignon, 9% petit verdot, 4% merlot + 3% malbec; herbal, earthy notes frame lively fruit, wrapped in rustic tannins
2014 50 Harvests “Meritage” Napa Valley Oak Knoll District ($50) 75% cabernet sauvignon + 25% petit verdot; deep, forward fruit, herbal, fresh textured; a fine collaboration of Napa winemaker Mitch Cosentino and Lodi winemaker Paul Scotto
2014 Acumen “Mountainside” Napa Valley ($45) 42% cabernet sauvignon, 19% malbec, 19% merlot, 14% cabernet franc + 6% petit verdot; minty, herbaceous, earthy, intense, spicy finish, needs time to come together
2016 Chappellet “Mountain Cuvee” Napa Valley ($34) 51 cabernet sauvignon, 13 malbec, 24 merlot, 3 cabernet franc + 9 petit verdot; lively, concentrated, sweet fruit, savory, herbal
2013 Dry Creek Meritage Dry Creek Valley ($26) all five Bordeaux varieties but mostly 40% Merlot and 33% Cabernet Sauvignon; restrained but juicy berries, touch of dried herb and spice, drying tannins needs time to resolve
For others, the “Super Tuscans” of Italy are the benchmark, showcasing sangiovese, though often substituting zinfandel and sometimes syrah.
2015 Ferrari-Carano “Siena” Sonoma County Red Wine ($21) sangiovese, malbec, cabernet sauvignon + petite sirah; zesty, fruit-forward red berries, lush, anise and cocoa tinged
2014 Treana “Red” ($45) 75% cabernet sauvignon + 25% syrah; from one of Paso Robles pioneer wineries; intense fruit, tobacco, mocha and woodsy notes add complexity, lush, powerful
Duckhorn Winery’s Paraduxx winery is exemplary here. It is a winery devoted to making only blends. Each of these will benefit from a few years development.
2014 Atlas Peak ($80) 55% cabernet sauvignon + 45% sangiovese; firm, full, oaky, earthy, smooth structure, spicy finish
2014 Howell Mountain ($80) 65% cabernet sauvignon + 35% syrah; dense dark fruit, herbal, leathery, tannic finish
2015 Napa Valley Proprietary Red Wine ($50) 54% cabernet sauvignon, 19% merlot, 16% zinfandel + 11% petit verdot; intense, bright fruit, forest and tobacco notes, smooth
Still others take southern France as inspiration, blending grapes like syrah, grenache, mourvedre, and petite sirah. The ones in this report, though, also mix in Bordeaux and Italian grapes. This is California, after all.
2013 Ancient Peaks “Oyster Ridge” Paso Robles Maragarita Ranch ($60) 75% cabernet sauvignon, 15% syrah, 5% petite sirah + 5% malbec; my favorite of the whole tasting; massive, complex, packed with intense dark fruits, herbs, licorice, mocha, spice, and rich polished texture; will age well
2015 Rodney Strong “Upshot” Sonoma County ($28) 44% zinfandel, 29% merlot, 15% malbec, 7% petit verdot + 5% Riesling (?!); don’t ask me about the resiling because I don’t know how or why that got in there; I just know this offers user friendly, zesty fruit, with hints of tobacco and toast ; it has a lush, slightly dusty texture
2016 Lucas & Lewellen “Hidden Asset” Santa Barbara County ($29) 32% malbec, 30% merlot, 26% syrah, 9% petite sirah + 3% cabernet franc; oaky, menthol, fruity dark berries, light spice, smooth
2016 Pedroncelli “Sonoma Classico” Barrel Select Dry Creek Valley ($19) merlot, zinfandel, petite sirah, syrah; bright fruit, baking spices, dried herbs, smoky notes, rustic texture; good value