Although sparkling wine is appropriate for any occasion, the holidays are its prime time. Lucky for us effervescent wine is so popular there are versions made in virtually every wine region. This column focuses on bubbles from France and Italy, ideal for any celebration, party, or even your nightly meal.
Champagne still is the world’s most prestigious bubbly. And Moët & Chandon, one of Champagne’s most historic (founded in 1743) and influential houses is an ideal place to start a stylistic exploration. Overall, these wines expertly balance richness and delicacy, just what I like in Champagne. These blends are dominated by pinot noir with significant but lesser amounts of pinot meunier and chardonnay.
Brut Impérial ($40) is Moët’s iconic cuvée. And with good reason. Currently available in a limited-edition embossed bottle, it would make a nice holiday gift. It is elegant and seamlessly juicy with apple and lemon with balance and complexity from toasty elements. The Brut Rosé Imperial ($40) is seductively lively, with intense, fresh red berries, delicate floral notes, and a luscious, expressive structure.
Moët’sGrand Vintage wines are special offerings. They will evolve for at least ten years. The 2009 Grand VintageExtra Brut($65) is delightfully rich, complex and concentrated with juicy, pitted and red fruits balanced with vanilla cream, almonds, toast and light spice. The 2009 Grand Vintage Rosé Extra Brut ($70) leads with ripe berries, then floral and lightly peppery notes. A sense of elegance compliments the firm texture. Toasty richness and complexity are its hallmarks. Given their age, both drink with refinement but will keep for severl years.
While Champagne is the benchmark for bottle fermented sparkling wine, there are good sparklers elsewhere in France, usually labeled Crémant, is an affordable alternative. I particularly like Crémant d’Alsace, made using the Champagne method. Lucien Albrecht, a winery that dates to 1698 is one of the best. has produced fine, citrusy Crémant Brut ($22) using chardonnay, pinot blanc, and pinot auxerrois or the 100 percent pinot noir Rosé Brut for its crisp, berry fruit, finesse and nice measure of complexity.
Prosecco, the fresh frizzantefrom the Veneto hills of northeastern Italy, has really gained in popularity in recent years. Made from the native glera grape, it is produced using the Charmat Method (bubbles from second fermentation in pressurized tanks, instead of in the bottle as with Champagne). Its fresh, delicate pear, citrus and peach fruit and frothy palate make for an easy drinking and modestly priced wine versatile for many occasions.
One of my all-time favorite producers (along with Bisol) is Adami, a family owned winery in the prized Valdobbiadene area. Established in 1920, they produce benchmark Prosecco bursting with varietal purity and white flowers. The “Garbel” Brut ($15) is quite full flavored for its price; the “Bosco di Gica” Brut ($18) is most lively and refreshing; and the 2017 “Vigneto Giardino” Brut ($22) is impressively focused and intense.
Lambrusco from Emilia-Romagna is enjoying a reintroduction to American consumers as artisan bubbly – exuberantly fruity berries and mostly dry, not the sickly sweet, mass-produced froth of the past. One of the best is Cleto Chiarli. The wines below are made from regional variations of the lambrusco grape.I suspect these still may be an acquired taste for some but I think they are delicious, versatile, and inexpensive.
The effusive, luscious, firm, savory, peppery Vigneto Cialdini ($15) is a good introduction to the style. The 2016 floral, fresh, crisp, lightly Premium Vecchia Modena ($15) shows a bit more depth. The succulent, spicy lightly Centenario Grasparossa di Castelvetro Amabile ($11) is a delightfully semi sweet exception to the rule.
Although Piemonte in Italy’s northwest is most famous for its red wines – Barolo, Barbaresco, Barbera, etc. – the region also excels with spumante. Enrico Serafino established the winery in the Roero district 140 years ago and is one of the area’s most respected producers. In addition the winery is a leader in the production of what Italians call “Metodo Classico” or the Classic (read Champagne) Method.
Its 2013 Brut ($25), a chardonnay/pinot noir blend with enticing white flowers, stone fruit, orange oil, and a crisp but luscious texture, is a fine value. The 100 percent pinot noir 2014 Brut Rosé ($27) offers a sophisticated, lightly toasty experience. The 2010 Brut Zero ($52) is a very special wine, even at this price. A pinot noir/chardonnay blend, “Zero” means it is extremely dry. It also is “late disgorged”, meaning each bottle aged on its lees – a process that adds complexity – an extended period before being corked. Expect Creamy apple and pear with vibrant acidity and finesse.
(NOTE: All wines here are nonvintage unless otherwise noted.)