So, I have written before about white and rosé wines for summer sipping to beat the heat but it occurred to me we shouldn’t forget completely about red wines. I still crave the character of red wine but in this case it’s usually the types of reds that can be enjoyed chilled.
First, a few clarifications: by chilled, I mean 50-55°F, a little warmer than the typical white wine. Choose young, ready-to-drink wines with higher acidity, softer tannins, moderate alcohol,andlittle or no oak to bring the refreshing, primary fruit flavors to the forefront. And expect prices $20 and under.
Given these criteria, there are many options from just about every wine region. Some examples: garnacha/grenache (Spain/southern France), gamay (Beaujolais), cabernet franc (Loire Valley), lemberger (Austria), pinot noir (New Zealand), pinotage (South Africa), and malbec (Argentina).
As I searched through my sample notes, though, I realized that Italy is especially deft at this. So, in this column, that’s where I focus. Chianti, a wine with many affordable and elegant styles, is a good place to start, especially basic Chianti and Chianti Classico. Mostly sangiovese, these wines meet all the criteria listed above. They are fresh and tangy with cherry and forest-like notes, and sometimes white pepper and a hint of star anise.
- 2015 Badia a Coltibuono “Cetamura” Chianti ($11) Cetamura is the name of an Etruscan settlement on the Coltibuono property. This entry level Chianti is typically fresh, accessible and ideal for daily drinking.
- 2015 Castello del Trebbio Chianti Superiore ($15) Sporting a 12thcentury castle on a historic estate in the Chianti Rufina district, this wine is offers nicely balances earthy and fresh fruit nuances.
- 2014 Selvapiana Chianti Rufina ($17) With a history dating to medieval times, this organic winery, which has been in the same family for nearly 200 years, has produced a juicy wine, with intriguing minty and woodsy notes.
- 2013 Castello di Albola Chianti Classico ($19) This property located near Radda has passed has passed through noble hands for about a thousand years. Today it is owned by the Zonin family and is consistently one of Chianti’s best values.
- 2014 Badia a Coltibuono Chianti Classico ($20) From this 11th century “Abbey of the Good Harvest” estate vineyards near Gaiole, grapes are organically grown and vinified using natural yeast.
North of Tuscany in the Veneto region, corvina (usually combined with other local grapes) is used to make the ultra-light Bardolino and the more characterful Valplicella. The Alpine region of Alto Adige, best known for distinctive whites, also sources light, fresh reds.
- 2014 Tommasi “Rafaèl” Valpolicella Classico Superiore ($19) This wine is a bit of an exception to my rule, as it is aged 12 months in large oak casks. However, use of these neutral containers results in a fresh but elegant wine with aromas of dried spices and leather.
- 2015 Scaia Corvina ($12) A special Veneto project by Tenuta Sant’ Antonio, this 100 percent corvina wine is brisk and bold.
- 2016 Castel Sallegg Bischofsleiten ($14) From the Alto Adige/Südtirol in view of the Italian Alps, this single vineyard wine is 100 percent schiava, an indigenous grape that is a signature of the region. It is typically light bodied, low in tannins and effusively fruity.
- 2015 Peter Zemmer Pinot Noir ($18) Also from Alto Adige, this is soft, flavorful and elegant.
And from the south, three wines from Masseria Le Veli in Puglia (the heel of the boot) are ideal choices. Established in 1999 on a property in the province of Salento originally founded by a prestigious Italian economist at the beginning of the twentieth century, the wines are made from certified organic native varieties.
- 2015 “Contrade” Negroamaro ($10). Li Veli’s second label, produced in collaboration with select local grape growers, shows surprisingelegance, structure.
- 2015 “Orion” Salento ($13) From one of the primary grapes of the region, this 100 percent primitivo (a relative of zinfandel) is exuberant and lightly spicy.
- 2014 “Passamante” Salice Salentino ($13) features the region’s other principal grape, negroamaro. Spicy and characterful, it’s a lot of wine for the money.
Finally, two wines from either end of the boot.
- Lambrusco from Emilia-Romagna – not the cheap, sweet sparkling wine but the refreshing, juicy and balanced one from a caring producer like Cleto Chiarli, whose nonvintage Vecchia Modena Premium ($15) will cool even the warmest summer days.
- Etna Rosso from the slopes of Mount EtnainSicily – the 2014 Alta Mora ($24) from just beyond the toe of the boot and produced by the Cusamano family, is a fresh but velvetynerello mascalese.