Every winemaker says they believe “wine is made in the vineyard.” They talk about terroir and vineyard expression. But that expression ultimately depends on decisions made by the winemaker in the cellar. Whether they admit it or not, winemakers generally try to achieve a certain style. California Cabernet Sauvignon is a good example.
I have tasted over 60 Cabernets in the last year and recommend the following (listed in order of preference within each category) as exemplars of their styles.
Especially from the Napa Valley, Cabernet Sauvignon has become a phenomenon in recent decades with a general style that emphasizes richness and concentration. While there are variations on the theme (and whether the wine is blended from multiple sources or a single vineyard), the style is recognizable in pronounced fruit, lavish oak (much of it new), full body, and supple texture. Ideally, all this results in a wine enticing to drink now but that can be aged and enjoyed for years.
2013 Galerie “pleinair” Napa Valley ($50) pure, ripe fruit, charmingly soft mouthfeel and tannins
2014 Jamieson Ranch “Double Lariat” Limited Production ($55)sweet fruit, plush tannins buttressed with refreshing acidity
2014 Clos du Val Hirondelle Vineyard ($120) deep fruit and moderate tannin come together in a seamless whole
2013 Clif Family “Kit’s Killer Cab” ($75) rich, concentrated, focused
2013 Freemark Abbey Napa Valley ($50) full-bodied, intense, balanced with lively structure and firm tannins
2013 Martin Ray “Synthesis” Napa Valley ($50) firm and full, yet lavish, lithe and well-proportioned
2013 Freemark Abbey Rutherford ($70) large-scaled, full-bodied, dense, solid tannins, bright acidity
2014 Duckhorn Napa Valley ($75) complex, balanced, immediately appealing
2013 Dry Creek Vineyard “Endeavour” ($70) serious, bountiful, concentrated, solidly structured (from Dry Creek Valley but fits the Napa style)
2013 Fortress Knights Reserve ($40) bold fruit, elegant palate, noticeable oak (from Knights Valley in Sonoma but fits the Napa style)
But not everyone has jumped on the bandwagon. For a style contrast look to what generally is described as an Old World (meaning typical Bordeaux) style. There is less emphasis on opulent fruit, more on lively acidity and firm structure. This is still California, so there is a sense of fresh fruit but balanced with earthy and dried herb notes.
2013 Grgich Hills Napa Valley Estate Grown ($69) firm, fresh tannins, tight core of pure fruit, certified organic
2013 Jordan Alexander Valley ($55) refined, silky, savory throughout
2013 Chimney Rock Stags Leap District Estate Grown ($85) elegant, yet structured, full-bodied, strong tannins
2014 J. Lohr Hilltop Vineyard Paso Robles ($35) medium-bodied, dense flavors, balances vibrant acidity with soft texture
2014 Stonestreet ($45) herbal and forest notes, deep flavors, solid tannins
Many wineries try to strike a balance between the two styles. They combine the ripeness of California fruit with the nuances of Bordeaux. Neither the fruit nor the oak hit you over the head. Instead, they join together to caress your palate.
2014 Michael Mondavi Family “Animo” Atlas Peak($85) concentrated, full, muscular tannins but manages a graceful palate
2014 Chateau Montelena Napa Valley ($58) lots of fruit buttressed with a lively energy, powerful but with a sense of elegance
2014 Michael Mondavi Family “Emblem” Napa Valley ($35) deep, juicy fruit, lush texture (merlot, petit verdot, syrah, zinfandel and petite sirah comprise 20 percent of the wine)
2013 Rodney Strong Reserve ($40) full-bodied, fresh fruit, supple tannins
2014 Clos du Val Estate ($52) medium body, intense fruit but precise texture, delicate tannins
Don’t forget that many fine Cabernet Sauvignons are produced in the state of Washington. Here are two fine Washington Cabernet Sauvignons you really should take the time to track down.
2012 Cadaretta Columbia Valley ($50) a really fine, balancedblend of 89% cabernet sauvignon, 6% petit verdot and 5% merlot; ripe dark fruits, toasty oak, a full body and refined palate
2014 Canvasback Red Mountain ($40) another excellent wine ofdark fruits and complex earthy and light spice notes with alush, full palate and firm tannins
I know some of you will be asking, “what about wines under $10?” Well, every one I tasted in the past year just didn’t make the cut. It is disappointing that solid quality is getting harder to find for less than $20 a bottle. But I did find a few good ones just under $20 and a few more just over $20 (you might find them on sale for less than $20). Here are several solid values for everyday drinking.
2014 Kendall-Jackson Vintner’s Reserve Sonoma County ($24) silky, easy drinking, with firm black fruits and herbal touches
2014 Dry Creek Vineyard “Hillside & Benchland” ($26) well-balanced with blackberry, a touch of mint and fresh tannins
2014 J.Lohr Seven Oaks ($17) lush fruit, velvety tannins
2014 Castoro Cellars Paso Robles Estate Grown ($16) fresh berries and hints of spice are straightforwardly flavorful