Within sight of the Alps, Piemonte (the Italian spelling, it’s Piedmont in English) in northwestern Italy arguably is Italy’s most famous wine producing region (unless you want to argue for Tuscany). Of course, that’s like saying George Washington is more famous than Abraham Lincoln.
And that fame is mostly centered on two wines from theLanghe subregion: Barolo and Barbaresco. These wines are always made 100 percent of the indigenous nebbiolo grape. Curiously, nebbiolo appears capable of reaching such great heights only in Piemonte, as there are very few examples of similar quality produced anywhere else. There’s just something about this grape grown in this place as expressed in the resulting wines that testify to the synergy of grape and terroir.
Named after towns in the area, among serious wine lovers, Barolo and Barbaresco are considered among the world’s great red wines. Presenting different expressions of nebbiolo, Barolo is most often characterized as more muscular and tannic, larger scaled, and somewhat austere but with dramatically intense fruit. In Barbaresco, the soil is more fertile, thus the wines tend to be slightly less tannic but better balanced. Still both exhibit substantial tannins and typically display enticing cherry fruit and notes of roses and what has been described as tar.
Of course, there are many fine producers but good values often seem hard to find, as most of the wines approach $100 a bottle, and some exceed that price handily. But I found two excellent values that also should be fairly widely available in the U.S.
First, the 2014 Vietti Barolo “Castiglione” ($52). Vietti owners, the Currado family has made wine for over two centuries. They were among the first wineries to produce a single vineyard Barolo in the early 1960s. Today, the Fifth generation offers several single vineyard Barolos and a Riserva but also this one made in what can be described as a classic style. Very aromatic, it is somewhat angular, with firm, yet elegant tannins that unfold across the palate. And it happens to be vegan, meaning no animal by-products were use in its production.
The 2014 Marchesi di Grésy Barbaresco “Martinenga” ($60) also is a fine choice. The di Grésy family has roots in Piemonte dating to the 1600s. This vineyard has been dedicated to grape growing since ancient Roman times and owned by the family since 1797. Its bright red fruit is accented with rich earth and suggestions of mint, presented with supple tannins, and finishes with piercing vibrancy.
If you want a sense of what all the fuss is about at a more affordable price, wines labeled “Nebbiolo Langhe”, usually featuring grapes from younger vines and sourced from multiple vineyards. But wines such as the 2015 Vietti “Perbacco” ($26) give a reasonable preview. This one, essentially a second wine to their Barolo Castiglione is typically friendly and flavorful with notes of licorice and spice and the structure of a Barolo.
Importantly, Piemonte is much more than nebbiolo. Beyond these icon wines is a quite diverse panoply of native grapes that produce fascinating, affordable wines.
Probably the next most significant is barbera, the most widely planted grape in the region. Its many benefits include a generally juicy, easy drinking character and reasonable cost, resulting in an ideal everyday wine. It typically produces rich, concentrated dark berry flavors, often with hints of licorice, and occasionally earthy notes with good acidity but softer tannins. Barbera from Asti and Alba (towns in the Langhe) are what you want to look for.
I recently tasted three fine Barbera d’Asti:
- 2016 Vietti “Tre Vigne” ($26) fresh and sleek, rich and concentrated, this glides across the palate effortlessly
- 2017 Renato Ratti Battaglione ($20) notable for deep, lively fruit and lavish mouthfeel
- 2017 Marchesi di Gresy “Monte Aribaldo” ($18) floral notes and has fine structure
Dolcetto is Piemonte’s other important variety. The grape is appealing for its exuberant fruitiness, tangy bitterness, and affordability. The 2016 Marchesi di Gresy Dolcetto d’Alba “Monte Aribaldo” ($18) is typically supple, fresh.
There are also several commendable whites wines, which I will review in a future column.