California Cabernet, especially Napa Valley and Sonoma County appellations, has been a sales phenomenon since the 1970s. Even as California wine production continues to grow and lesser-known varieties are emerging, Cabernet Sauvignon remains the most popular varietal red wine.
And though fine quality can be found up and down the state, Sonoma and Napa dominate the quality wine production market. I have tasted over 60 Cabernets in the last year and recommend the following (listed in order of preference within each category) as exemplars of their styles.
Especially from the Napa Valley, Cabernet Sauvignon has become a phenomenon in recent decades with a general style that emphasizes richness and concentration. While there are variations on the theme, the style is recognizable in pronounced fruit, lavish oak, firm body, and supple texture. Ideally, all this results in a wine enticing to drink now but that can be aged and enjoyed for years.
Chappellet has been producing highly prized wines since 1967, and its flagship Pritchard Hill has become one of Napa’s iconic cabernets. At about one-third the price, though, the 2016 Signature ($70) is wonderfully expressive with layers of fresh red and black fruits, suggestions of earth and cocoa in an approachable style with a lush texture and powdery tannins. It has the structure composition to evolve and drink well for at least 20 years.
2015 Gamble Family ($60), from highly regarded growers with a family history in the valley over 100 years, has produced a wine lively yet depth of blackberry, toasty oak, cocoa, generous, rich, ripe, black cherry, supple, fleshy, well knit
Duckhorn Vineyards has, since 1978, produced what could be described as “quintessentially Napa Valley Cabernet”. Duckhorn built a reputation for large scaled deeply flavored Merlots and Cabernets. Over the years, their portfolio has grown to include regional, appellation and single vineyard bottlings. The Napa Valley (2015, $75) encompasses the complex, balanced, immediately appealing expression of the valley. It is firm, structured, age worthy supple, polished tannins
For another typical expression of Napa Cabernet, buy a 2015 Frank Family ($53). Blended from several vineyards, it offers precocious, ripe fruit, rich texture, some earth, and soft tannins that drink well now but will allow years of development. Cassis, blackberry, black cherry, cedar, toast, pencil, firm, lush, creamy, licorice, juicy, flashy, approachable,
Charles Krug, Napa’s oldest commercial winery, has been in the Mondavi family since 1943. 2015 Vintage Selection ($125 ) deep blackberry, powdery mouthfeel, chunky, needs time, one of the valley’s legacy wineries also have stepped up to improve quality.
Over in Sonoma County, several valleys produce really good Cabernet. Probably the most distinguished is the Alexander Valley.
One of the more distinguished producers is Jordan Vineyards, which has been a mainstay of the valley (and a top destination) since the mid-1970s. Jordan’s 2015 ($55) is refined, silky, savory throughout. There is less emphasis on opulent fruit, more on lively acidity and firm structure. This is still California, so there is a sense of fresh fruit but balanced with earthy and dried herb notes.
Murphy-Goode, with family winemaking history since 1985 and farming before that, produces a nice everyday Alexander Valley Cab (2015, $28) that delivers rather straightforward black fruits with suggestions of herbs and cocoa in a solid frame.
Closer to the Pacific, the Dry Creek Valley is a little known gem tucked away in northwestern Sonoma. And when Dry Creek Vineyard was founded in 1972, it was the first new winery in Dry Creek Valley since Prohibition. Both are known mostly for heady Zinfandels but also are surprising sources of good Cabernets. The 2015 Hillside & Benchland ($29) is fruit forward but nicely balanced, with fresh forest notes; pure juicy black fruit, firm structure, and slightly astringenttannins.
The Pedroncelli family has been in Dry Creek Valley since 1927 and its 2014 Wisdom Estate Vineyard ($36) showcases the 50+ year old vines in an herbal, medium, cedar, graphite, black fruits, nicely structured,
Finally, two wineries – three wines each – featuring an exploration of Sonoma County terroirs.
Founded 55 years ago by celebrated American dancer Rodney Strong (and now owned by the Klein family), this winery has more recently emphasized estate grown wines. The 2015 Alexander Valley ($28), from estate vineyards on the hillsides, this straightforward, yet confident wine nicely balances oaky vanilla and berry fruit, light herbs, finishing lush, structured, and velvety.
The 2015 Knights Valley ($35) from the Sonoma appellation farthest east of the ocean and somewhat protected from its cooling influences. Expect lavish black fruits and toasty oak with a a fairly full-body, while crisp acidity and herbal tinges enliven the refined finish.
The 2015 Reserve ($45) is a blend of the best Alexander Valley estate vineyards. It is medium-bodied, with fresh fruit and supple tannins, this wine combines the ripeness of California fruit with the nuances of Bordeaux. Neither the fruit nor the oak hit you over the head. Instead, they join together to caress your palate.
The Jackson family has been winegrowers since 1974 and has built the largest family-owned wine company in California. Under their flagship Kendall-Jackson brand, the Jackson Estate portfolio showcases the family’s estate vineyards, The 2014 Alexander Valley ($40) intense and full with bright acidity and rich tannins.
The 2014 Grand Reserve ($28) is a fine value delivering a lot of wine for the money. Excellent purity of dark fruits, good depth and intriguing woodsy notes mark a balanced wine. The 2016 Vintner’s Reserve ($24) utilizes mostly Sonoma County grapes to produce a silky, easy drinking, with firm black fruits and herbal touches