Colorado has worldwide reputation for fine festivals, especially those centered on wine and food. One of the newest and, in my view, most special is Slow Food Nations. Forbes just published Five Reasons to Visit Colorado this- Summer stating, “In July, Denver is hosting the Slow Food Nationsconference, one of the country’s best festivals for serious foodies.” The third annual conference and festival will be in Denver July 19-21.
There will be much food for thought and some pretty amazing culinary experiences.This year’s theme is Where Tradition Meets Innovation, with an amazing array of speakers and chefs introducing your mind to new ideas and your taste buds to amazing new flavors, while experiencing the future of food.
In preparation for the event, I suggest drinking some Slow Wine. My interest in the distinctive wines that achieve the Slow Wine designation was cultivated when the Slow Wine Guidetour came to Denver last March (as I have written previously). Here are recommendations of a few wineries from the guide that I have tasted recently.
Since 1994, Beckmen Vineyards (operated by Tom and Judy, with sons Steve and Jeff) has been crafting exceptional, mostly estate grown wines in Santa Barbara County. The family converted its Purisma Mountain Vineyard in Ballard Canyon near Los Olivos to biodynamic farming methods in 2006 (Demeter Certified). Planted to sauvignon blanc, grenache blanc, viognier, and chardonnay, as syrah, grenache, mourvedre, and counoise. I recently tasted the 2017 Cuvee Le Bec ($25), which is a delightful Rhone-style wine of surprising complexity. The 2018 Purisima Mountain Vineyard Grenache Rosé ($25) is flavorful and refreshing. Their varietally labeled Syrah and Grenache wines consistently deliver purity of fruit balanced with a captivating finesse.
Over forty years ago while spending time in Europe Josh Jensen developed an intense interest in Burgundy, even working at some of the most prestigious Burgundian wineries. So, he knew when he came back to California he wanted to make wines with a Burgundian sensibility, even while they would be distinctively Californian. He als o knew to look for cool climate vineyards with limestone soil and high-quality pinot noir clones. Jensen found the ideal, though unlikely location on Mt. Harlan, in the Gavilan Mountains of San Benito County east of Monterey Bay and planted it in 1975. One of the state’s pinot noir pioneers, Calera’s wines from this terroir show high-toned fruit with a lifted structure and fine tannins. Three I tasted recently – 2016 De Villiers Vineyard ($65), 2016 Reed Vineyard ($75), and 2016 Jensen Vineyard ($95) – are emblematic with bright red berries joining earthy, spicy accents in layers of complexity. Calera also produces excellent Viognier and Chardonnay.
Emeritus Vineyards is a Pinot Noir specialist established in 1999 when Brice Cutrer Jones (originator of the wildly popular Sonoma-Cutrer Chardonnay) purchased the former Hallberg Ranch in the Russian River Valley. They added Pinot Hill Vineyard in the Sonoma Coast appellation in 2008. Emeritus employs sustainable and organic farming practices in its vineyards – dry farming (no irrigation), no insecticides, cover crops, sheep for weed control and fertilization – allowing the vines to naturally come into balance without unnatural interference. The wines I tasted: 2016 Hallberg Ranch ($44, elegant and enticing), 2016 Hallberg Ranch “Wesley’s Reserve” ($75, rich and flavorful), 2015 Pinot Hill ($75, refined and bracing) testify to these practices.
Family-owned Long Meadow Ranch Wine Estates began in 1989 when Ted and Laddie Hall began work to restore a neglected farm using sustainable agriculture. It is now a full circle organic system committed (with the help of their son, Chris) to responsibly farmed vineyards and including olives, bees, organic gardens, grass-fed cattle and chickens, fruits, vegetables and horses. The operation is a welcome contrast to the monoculture that dominates in Napa Valley. The winery is solar powered and they operate a restaurant, Farmstead, in St. Helena. Wines are produced from three estate vineyards: Mayacamas Estate home ranch, Rutherford Estate in Napa, and Anderson Valley Estate in Mendocino. The wines reflect a commitment to balance and food friendly elegance. I recently enjoyed the 2017 Napa Valley Sauvignon Blanc ($22), 2015 Anderson Valley Chardonnay ($40), 2016 Anderson Valley Pinot Noir ($40), and 2015 Napa Valley Merlot ($35).
Long Meadow Ranch recently acquired the storied Stony Hill Vineyard (located in the Spring Mountain District) from the McCrea family – finally a winery sale that didn’t go to a large corporation or a private equity firm.
After years of working at numerous prestigious wineries – Château Pétrus in Pomerol, Australia, Simi (with the iconic Zelma Long), Matanzas Creek, Chalk Hill, Dominus and Rudd Estate – David Ramey (with his wife Carla) established Ramey Wine Cellars in 1996. Along the way, he has become recognized as one of California’s finest producers of Chardonnay. He sources fruit from prime vineyards, such as Dutton and Bacigalupi in Sonoma, and Hyde and Hudson in Carneros. He also has been an exemplar of classic Burgundian techniques, while applying modern methods where appropriate. Ramey is a strong proponent of wild yeast fermentation and careful oak barrel and malolactic fermentation. His wines balance vibrant fruit flavors with rich textures, succulent acidity and structured yet silky elegance. He also makes several Bordeaux-style wines, Pinot Noir, and Syrah. I was blown away by the 2015 Rochioli Vineyard Chardonnay ($65) 2016 Fort Ross-Seaview Chardonnay ($42)