Italy is a cornucopia of vinous diversity, a boot overflowing with, by some estimates, over 2000 indigenous varieties. The northeastern regions of Veneto, Alto Adige and Friuli-Venezia Giulia arguably have led a re-awakening in Italian white wine production, while remaining a reliable source of distinctive, unique red wines.
Northeastern Italy, Part 1
Typically, these wines display natural freshness and expressiveness of their origins. They are notable for dramatic aromas, precise structure, and refreshing acidity. Here I highlight just a few worth seeking out from the Veneto. Most of these wines are unoaked or lightly oaked to retain natural freshness and expressiveness.
In the Veneto (just to the east of Lake Garda), Soave – named after a local village and made with the native garganega variety – has long been a popular choice for a light, refreshing white wine. After a period of mediocrity during the last few decades of the twentieth century), Soave has been reimagined by attentive quality minded wineries like Inama, who makes wines from estate vineyards on Monte Foscarino in the original “Classico” district.
The 2018 “Vin Soave” ($16) is delightfully light and tasty with touches of apple, nectarine, lemon, pear, and stone fruit nicely balanced with almond notes.
The 2017 “Vigneti di Foscarino” ($26), a special selection of old vines on the east side of the Monte Foscarino that is vinified (such as barrel fermentation) to recall traditional styles; yielding a wine with a lush texture and notes of apricot, pear and melon balanced with almond.
A similar story can be told with Valpolicella – composed of indigenous varieties (mostly corvina with varying amounts of rondinella, corvinone and molinara. A light, easy drinking red gained popularity and evolved into an indistinct sipper but now serious producers like Tenuta Sant’Antonio have resurrected the wine’s reputation. The 2016 “Nanfre” ($14) is a round, cherry flecked drink, sinewy but lush. For a contemporary interpretation of corvina, try the winery’s second label 2017 Scaia Corvina ($13), which nods to modern tastes with forward fruit.
At the tip of the Valpolicella pyramid is Amarone della Valpolicella. The 2015 Tenuta Sant’ Antonio “Selezione Antonio Castegnedi” ($45) is a fine representative of apassimento, the skillful process of drying the grapes to yield a deep, complex wine of bold dark fruits, hints of mocha, and tobacco.
In between, Valpolicella Ripasso achieves richer flavors by macerating Amarone pomace (grape skins and solids) with fresh Valpolicella. The result is a wine like the 2015 Tenuta Sant’ Antonio “Monti Garbi” ($20) with its intense black fruits, rich texture, and admirable complexity. Another perennial favorite is the 2014 Allegrini “Palazzo Della Torre” ($23). This one basically borrows from the ripasso and apassimento processes. This one blends fresh Valpolicella (in this case, corvina, rondinella and some sangiovese) vinified upon harvest and then later combined with the juice of dried grapes set aside to dry until January. The result is a wine of substantial structure with deep black cherry accented with spices, smoke and herbs.
Beyond these traditional wines, a creative producer like Inama is a good place to look for the region’s contemporary creativity. I was impressed with two wines from (surprise!) Bordeaux varieties: brought from France by locals.
Turns out the carménère grape has been cultivated in the Veneto for about 150 years unbeknownst to many but Inama discovered promising vineyards in the Colli Berici subregion near the village of Vicenza and now produces a fine example. The current vintage is the lithe, bright 2015 “Più” ($21), which includes a sizable dose of merlot. I also enjoyed the 2015 “Bradissimo” ($30), a blend of 70 percent cabernet sauvignon and 30 percent carménère, for its blackberry fruit and solid structure. It’s a fine alternative to a Super Tuscan.
Northeastern Italy, Part 2
The far northeast of Italy features some of the peninsula’s most spectacular scenery and most complex history. Yet – with the exception of Venice and maybe Verona for Shakespeare fans and the Dolomites for skiers – it is often a second thought for visitors. Sadly, much the same can be said for most of its wines. Here is my humble effort to correct that.
Northeast of Verona, the Alto Adige (also known as Südtirol – South Tyrol – because of historical Austrian and Germanic influences)is a fairly small region situated south of the Alps (bordering Switzerland and Austria in view of the Dolomites). It lies just north of Lake Garda and is slightly closer to Milan than Venice. Also, note the wines tend to be varietally labeled, rather than geographically, as is the more common practice elsewhere in Italy.
Distinguished for its high altitude vineyards, often planted up the sides of glacial valleys as high as 3,000 feet, the region is noteworthy mostly for distinctive white wines (3/5 of total production) with bracing acidity and substantive character but also red wines of considerable interest. And don’t be surprised if you can detect that illusive quality of “minerality” wine aficionados seek.
As mentioned, historically, this corner of Italy has experienced strong Austrian and Germanic influences, which is why you will see the terms Cantina (Italian) and Kellerei (German) on the labels, which are the terms for “winery”.
This helps explain why many of the wines are made from German varieties:
Like müller-thurgau, an offspring of Riesling; try the 2016 Cantina Bolzano (Bozen) “Eisacktaler” ($20), the region’s largest cooperative, for a bright and lively, floral and nutty wine, with a touch of spice.
Or kerner, which also has riesling as a parent. The 2017 Kurtatsch ($17), from a 100-year-old winery cooperative, reveals crisp,floral, fruity, and spicy notes.
And sylvaner, which is originally from Austria but more common now in Germany. The 2017 Abbazia di Novacella ($20), from a winery that dates the founding of the Novacella Monastery in 1142, is herbaceous, full-bodied and invigorating.
Others are French varieties.
If you are used to American pinot grigio, recalibrate your expectations. The 2015 Pacherhof ($31), from a property owned by the family since 1142, reveals refreshing pear and savory apple but also melon, citrus, and stone fruit. Amazingly refreshing and multifaceted, it is unlike anything produced here
Pinot Bianco (pinot blanc in French/weissburgunder in German) like the 2015 St. Michael-Eppan “Schulthauser” ($21), from a more than 100 years old coop, is delightfully redolent of honey and citrus in a lively, fresh delivery.
And there are several native varieties:
While gewürztraminer is better known as an Alsatian stalwart, it takes its name from the village of Tramin located in Alto Adige. The 2016 Cantina Terlano Estate Bottled ($27), from a 125 year old coop, was one of my favorites of the tasting with its wonderful lychee, apricot and spice in a brisk but viscous frame.
Moscato giallo is a unique member of the moscato (muscat in French) family as it suggests the sweet, floral, spicy intensity you would expect but with the firmness of a wine vinified dry. Alois Lageder’s 2017 “Vogelmaier” ($25) – from a family with a history in the region since 1823 and today a leader in biodynamic farming–is delightfully aromatic with spicy apricot and lime with an intriguing savory note.
Lagrein, virtually unique to this region and thought to be a relative of Syrah, is the result of crossing Teroldego with another (unspecified) local grape. Lagrein is known for its dark fruit and earthy pepper notes with relatively high tannins and acidity. The 2015 Cantina Bolzano (Bozen) Riserva “Taber” is also robust with slightly bitter fresh red berries and a woodsy element.
Schiava (called vernatsch in German but known as trollinger in Germany) is a grape that generally is considered to make simple wines. As such, the 2017 Castelfeder Alte Reben ($17) is a surprise success. This one is fruity and delicate, lively and light, with soft berry tones – ideal for summer tipping.
Friuli-Venzia Giulia is Italy’s farthest northeast wine producing region, bordered by Austria, Slovenia, and the Adriatic. Many empires have claimed the area over the millennia, most notably the Republic of Venice for nearly 1100 years from the 7th through the 18th centuries. Still, the area’s culture arguably has more in common with Austria and Slovenia than the rest of Italy.
Similar to the Alto-Adige, there are impressive white wines from familiar grapes like chardonnay, sauvignon, gewürztraminer, sylvaner, and pinot grigio. The wines tend to be somewhat higher in alcohol but also higher in acidity, making for exquisite balance. There also is a cornucopia of mostly regional-focused, small production varieties well worth seeking out.
And the Collio subregion in the farthest east is recognized in the industry for some of the finest white wines anywhere. Yet it is still largely undiscovered by consumers. Located about an hour and a half east of Venice, the Marco Felluga winery is one of the foremost representatives of the region. Here, the watchword is balance – between tradition and innovation – as the winery was founded in the 1950’s on a property dating back to the 1300’s, while the Felluga family’s winemaking history dates back to the 1800’s.
The 2016 Pinot Grigio “Mongris” ($18) fills the mouth with peach, melon and stone fruit accented with basil and ginger. The 2015 Bianco “Molamatta” ($26) is a fascinating blend offriulano, pinot bianco, and ribolla gialla showing zippy apple, apricot, pineapple, and lemon with fine weight and structure.
Another historic property, dating back to the thirteenth century (and with part of the existing cellar dating back to the 1700s), Russiz Superiore was acquired by the Felluga family in 1967. Notable for estate vineyards surrounding the winery, the 2016 Cabernet Franc ($29) impresses with black fruits, herbs, smoky spice, and soft tannin. The 2018 Sauvignon ($29) – what we know as Sauvignon Blanc – is inspiring for its crisp lemon, peach and melon. Packed with flavor, it still drinks with finesse.
Note: Featured Image is Soave vineyard courtesy of Azienda Agricola Inama