SAUVIGNON BLANC PROVIDES REFRESHING DRINKING FOR WARMER WEATHER
With the blistering weather (even in September these days!), it’s natural for wine drinkers to think about cooling off with a refreshing white wine. While most U.S. consumers still turn first to Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc is an ideal alternative.
Sauvignon Blanc’s flavor profile comes in several styles, though it’s usually assertively aromatic, with refreshing acidity. Generally expect brisk green citrus (lime, gooseberry) but also other citrus, especially grapefruit and a distinctive (sometimes spicy) herbaceousness. Some also are evocative of fresh cut hay or oats. Wines made from riper fruit often display peach, melon or even tropical fruits. These qualities make it an exceptional accompaniment to food.
It has a noble heritage as a parent (with cabernet franc) of cabernet sauvignon. It is responsible for the Loire Valley wines of Sancerre and Pouilly Fume and, with semillon, the white Bordeaux of Graves and Sauternes. The grape also has found hospitable surroundings in New Zealand, South Africa, Australia, and Chile.
Here I focus on California, where the styles vary by producer more than terroir, though climate does have its influences. Most of the wines are fermented and aged in stainless steel to emphasize fresh, varietal characteristics, while some use varying amounts of mostly neutral oak to round out flavors and texture. Still others emulate the aggressiveness of New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc.
First, I found a number of good everyday values from the 2018 vintage at $20 and under. These tend to be lighter with the focus on varietal fruit. Think of them as everyday patio sippers. They are listed in order of preference but all are recommended:
- Two Angels High Valley ($17) creamy, juicy, balanced
- Dry Creek Vineyard Dry Creek Valley ($20) enticing, spicy, sumptuous
- Pedroncelli East Side Vineyards ($15) lively, tonic, herbal
- J. Lohr “Flume Crossing” ($14) tangy, crisp
- Dry Creek Vineyard Sonoma County “Fumé” ($16) energetic, lemongrass
As consumer friendly as these wines are, I found more complexity and flavor interest as prices escalated beyond $20. Also, I was surprised when I reviewed my tasting notes that all but one of these is from Napa. They are listed in order of preference but all are recommended:
2018 Spotswoode ($42). Combining fruit from the Spotswoode’s organic estate vineyard and other top Napa and Sonoma vineyards, this balances vibrancy and textural richness, with structure and complexity. Should age well for a few years.
2017 Cuvaison Méthode Béton ($35). The “method” is aging 12 months in concrete eggs (bétons). The result is fascinatingly different: graceful, yet refreshing, full, and persistent.
2017 Sonoma County’s Chalk Hill Estate ($33). The geographic outlier in this group turns fruit from its high altitude vineyards into wine that deftly balances a fair amount of oak with intense fruit, drinking with juicy acidity and a lush texture.
2018 Ehlers Estate ($32). From Ehler’s certified organic vineyard in the warmer climate near St. Helena, this is a succulent and racy counterpoint, having seen no oak. Still full-bodied, it is nicely savory.
2018 Gamble Vineyard ($28). The Gamble Family has produced a rich wine from their estate vineyard near centrally located Yountville,showing an oaky roundness with licorice and spice.
2018 Ladera ($30). With fruit from the cooler Oak Knoll District of southern Napa Valley, this offers brisk but juicy fruit, a touch of mineral, and a textural accent of oak.
2018 Cuvaison ($25). Without seeing any oak, this nicely expresses its cool climate Carneros estate vineyard fruit. It is brisk and assertive, yet juicy and luscious, finishing lightly spicy.
2018 Duckhorn Napa Valley ($30). Blending cool and warm sites throughout the valley, this quite aromatic wine includes a touch of semillon. It is notable for a hint of licorice, while showing a nice oaky texture.
Note: Featured Image courtesy Spottewoode Estate