While Chardonnay is still the most popular American wine and Sauvignon Blanc is a solid second (and I’ve written about both recently), many wine buyers are showing more interest in a diversity of flavor profiles from other grapes. Generally, you should find the wines in this column are bright, food-friendly and meant to be enjoyed at any time but especially with food.
Let’s begin with several wines from Rhone varieties.
Viognier. Viognier once upon a time was quite rare but is now the most-planted white Rhone varietal in the United States. It produces wines with intense aromatics of peach, apricot, apple, and floral notes, as well as viscosity and lushness. Maybe that’s why there were more of these in my tastings. Listed in order of preference: My favorite was the 2017 Chappellet Cold Creek Vineyard (rich, luxurious, $38), followed closely by the 2017 J. Lohr Gesture (juicy, honeyed, $30).
I also enjoyed two wines with a bonus of being “SIP (Sustainability in Practice) Certified”, which recognizes sustainable winegrowing and winemaking, environmental preservation, and social responsibility: the 2018 Record Family Wines Paso Robles (silky, tangy, $25) and 2018 Opolo Central Coast (intense, viscous, $26).
Roussanne. Although very little Roussanne is grown in the US, I often find it is results equal to Viognier, with its honeyed richness, savory, exotic and fruity notes. I really enjoyed the delicate, natural acidity of the 2015 Sosie Vivio Vineyard Bennett Valley (Sonoma County, $38).
Grenache Blanc. A mutation of the red grape grenache, grenache blanc is widely grown in the south of France. It produces fuller bodied wines with citrus and melon, such as the 2017 Halter Ranch Adelaida District Estate Bottled (Paso Robles, $34), another SIP Certified wine.
Picpoul Blanc. According to Tablas Creek winery, picpoul blanc is one of the lesser-known Rhône grapes and rare in California. But they have revealed its promise in that state. Their 2018 Adelaida District (Paso Robles, $30) is a good representative of the bright acidity, minerality, lemon and herbal qualities typical of wines from this grape.
Several other regions of France also were represented in my tastings:
Muscat. One of the most aromatic of grapes, several varieties in the muscat family are grown all over the Mediterranean and can yield luscious dry or sweet wines known for floral and spicy characteristics – such as with the 2018 Eberle Muscat Canelli Paso Robles ($22).
White Pinot Noir. The 2018 Left Coast White Pinot Noir ($24) actually is a white wine made from Burgundy’s premier red grape, pinot noir – think citrus, apple, pear, orange – crafted by not allowing the juice to have contact with the skins.
Pinot Gris. This grape – generally noted for stone fruit, melon, and citrus – is genetically a clone of pinot noir, and is believed to have originated in Burgundy yet these days is more prominent in Alsace, Germany and Austria (where it is known as grauburgunder or ruländer), and, of course, Italy (where it is known as pinot grigio). It’s the leading white variety in Oregon and increasingly popular in California. Its name also refers to the greyish color of its skin. It was the next most represented grape in my tastings.
Wines labeled Pinot Gris stylistically are expected to be more in the Alsatian style: ripe, full bodied and sumptuous. Like the viscous caramel and pear of the 2018 Chehalem “Chehalem Mountains” (Willamette Valley, $25) and the crisp, tangy, citrus of the 2018 Left Coast “The Orchard” ($18). From California, the lush, though tight honeysuckle, peach and the melon of the 2018 Fel Anderson Valley ($25) delivers much enjoyment.
Chenin Blanc. Primarily associated with the Loire Valley but increasingly successful in South Africa, it can produce impressively complex, luscious dry or sweet wines. Unfortunately, California versions are often simple. But not the 2018 Dry Creek Vineyard “Dry” ($16). From a choice vineyard in Clarksburg in Lodi, it is aromatic and brisk, balanced with bright apple and honey. The 2018 Chappellet “Molly Chappellet” Napa Valley ($38) is a lot of wine, rewarding drinkers with a complex of citrus, apricot, and stone fruits complimented by apple notes.
And then there were several from other European countries:
Riesling. Although it still has a reputation of being only a sweet wine, Riesling – the iconic wine of Germany – often delightfully balances residual sugar and bracing acidity. But more and more, dry or off-dry Riesling is taking its place at the table. The best wines delightfully balance juicy, dramatic expressions of apple, grapefruit or peach (and sometimes peach or apricot) with bracing acidity, occasionally with steely, mineral components. It is intensely aromatic, impressively structured, and amazingly expressiveness of its terroir. The 2017 Kung Fu Girl Columbia Valley ($13) from Charles Smith Wines is an affordable introduction to New World Riesling. Its fresh minerality and sharp core cut through the mildly sweet pear fruit.
Kerner. With origins in Germany, Kerner is a cross between riesling and trollinger (also known as schiava grossa in Italy). It’s rare in Europe and even rarer in California. That’s part of what makes the floral, citrusy 2018 Sidebar Cellars ($25) so interesting. From the Mokelumne River AVA in Lodi, winemaker David Ramey sourced the fruit from the only kerner planting in California – the Mokelumne Glen Vineyard to make the only 100% Kerner bottling in California.
It is a dry, deeply aromatic, medium-bodied, satisfying wine.
Grüner Veltliner. Austria’s signature grape has become so popular we have begun to see small but increasing plantings in California. It produces outgoing, lively wines, with succulent fruit – citrus and tropical – and hints of mineral and spice. The 2017 Fiddlehead Cellars Fiddlestix Vineyard ($30) from Sta. Rita Hills in Santa Barbara County is a good introduction to what this grape can do in California.
Albariño. Primarily identified with northwest Spain and Portugal (where it is known as alvarinho) it can make invigorating, floral and citrus-flecked wines. There also are some interesting, successful examples in California, notably in the central coast regions, where I found these two: 2017 Castoro Cellars Double Black Vineyard ($30) – an Estate Grown wine from Paso Robles with hints of fig; and the fruity 2018 Opolo Edna Valley ($26) with nutty notes. Both are SIP Certified.
Falanghina. An Italian grape primarily cultivated in Campania in southern Italy, with some production in the neighboring regions of Puglia and Abruzzo, its wines tend to aromatic apple, peach, and almond, with herbal streaks. The fresh, crisp 2017 Castoro Cellars Whale Rock Vineyard ($30), from Estate Grown Paso Robles fruit, is a tasty example.