I haven’t researched this in depth but I feel relatively comfortable in asserting that the diversity of wine grape varieties grown in the Mediterranean countries is the most, um, diverse on the planet. This also applies to Mediterranean white grapes, the subject of this column. In general, they offer a diversity of experiences, all of them with a crisp, refreshing character.
As it turns out, I had an overrepresentation of Italian wines in my recent tastings. I have written before about the amazing cornucopia of, by some estimates, about 2000 indigenous wine grape varieties grown in Italy – with about 400 vinified commercially. This vinous diversity includes fine white wines from familiar grapes like chardonnay and sauvignon. But I find the native varieties most worth seeking out, as well as usually budget friendly. Here are but a handful that deserves your attention.
On the eastern coast of Central Italy on the Adriatic Sea, verdicchio is the signature white grape of the Le Marche region. Its name comes from the word “verde” because of the wines’ naturally green shades and dry, refreshing style. The best ones tend to carry the designation Verdicchio Dei Castelli Di Jesi Classico Superiore and typically feature brisk apple and citrus, with stony notes. One of the most respected producers and the oldest family-owned winery in the region (dating back to 1871), Garofoli specializes in the grape, especially from the prestigious Castelli di Jesi area. The fresh, elegant 2018 “Macrina” ($14), which is made with slightly late harvest grapes to add body, is emblematic of the style. Their 2016 “Podium” Classico Superiore ($26), a special selection of grapes from a single-vineyard, shows more intense fruit with honey and solid structure.
In nearby Abruzzo, the picturesque, mountainous region with the most national parks and forests in Italy, the most common white grape is trebbiano. The 2017 Citra Trebbiano d’Abruzzo ($10) is a good introduction and an amazing value considering it is estate grown and bottled from a collection of family-owned vineyards in the Chieti, Abruzzo’s primary wine growing province.
And I was impressed with two wines from pecorino, an old variety once thought to be extinct that has been resurrected in recent decades. Its wines typically are high acid, high alcohol, but still fresh and easy going. I enjoyed the luscious palate balanced with pleasant citrus of the nonvintage Ferzo ($26) and appreciated the organic and biodynamic farming methods employed for the 2017 Fattoria La Valentina ($16).
Sicily’s indigenous grapes also are generating much interest. The Tasca family, one of Sicily’s oldest winemaking families (since the 1830’s), has been at the forefront of preserving and promoting many of the island’s local grapes, like catarratto, which generally produces neutral wines but the Tasca’s have shown it can excel when treated with care. Their Tenuta Regaleali estate also is committed to sustainability in the vineyards and the winery. The 2017 Catarratto “Antisa” ($20) belies the grape’s history of being used solely in blends. Even with no oak influence, it is fairly full-bodied wine with deep citrus notes complimented with flowery elements. The 2018 Bianco ($15) a blend of inzolia (47%), grecanico (22%), catarratto (25%) and chardonnay (6%) – whew!, is well rounded with crisp acidity, a refreshing sipper unexpectedly full of flavor.
Under the Tenuta Tascante banner, the Tasca family also promotes native varieties of the Mt. Etna province. The tallest, most active volcano in Europe also happens to overlook volcanic soils, old vines, and multiple microclimates, making for some world-class vineyards. Ahead of the curve for an area that has become a darling of the wine industry, the family makes wines, for example, from carricante, which has been described as Etna’s best white variety. The 2017 Carricante “Buonora” ($21) shows the grape’s signature mineral and saline character balanced with crisp apple and citrus and lightly herbal notes.
Nearby Greece also has seen a modern renaissance in winemaking even as wineries rediscover its ancient native grape varieties, such as moschofilero and malagouzia. Since we’re looking at crisp, versatile white wines in this column, a side trip seems appropriate. These two grapes, with their aromatic, floral notes, are distinctive alternatives to the so-called international varieties, like chardonnay.
Moschofilero has been cultivated in Greece for centuries, mainly grown in the Peloponnese peninsula. This pink-skinned variety is also used for rosés and sparkling wines. It produces lighter-bodied, intensely floral, fresh wines with crisp acidity and notes of lychee, melon, and lemon, such as the delightful 2016 Boutari ($15). From Domaine Skouras comes a unique style in the 2016 Salto “Wild Yeast” ($19), labeled “Moscofilero”, which is quite crisp and tart with citrus and a touch of tropical fruit.
Found in central Greece and Macedonia, malagouzia, a grape that almost became extinct, exemplifies the contemporary interest in Greece’s vinous history. The 2016 Alpha Estate ($15) is emblematic of the variety’s intense nose and highly expressive floral, citrus, tropical and stone fruit with fresh herb notes. It is full and round yet vibrant and fresh.
Finally, to round out my tasting: from Galicia in northwestern Spain, comes an even lesser known grape: godello-doña blanca. The 2016 Godelia Godello ($17), from the sub-region of Bierzo, reveals the grape’s ability to produce concentrated but fresh, mineral-driven whites. From the nearby Valdeorras sub-appellation within the Galicia region (where the grape is believed to have originated), the 2015 Pagos del Galir Godello ($19) satisfies with citrus and a savory note.
And … finally, from France, specifically the Côtes du Rhône, the 2017 Les Dauphins Blanc ($11) marries honeyed aromas and fresh fruit. Typical of Southern Rhône whites, it is a blend in this case of mostly grenache blanc with some marsanne, clairette and viognier.