HOLIDAY WINE DRINKING, PART 2: WINE BLENDS, THE WHOLE IS GREATER THAN SUM OF THE PARTS

Whether you realize it or not most wines you drink are blends of multiple grapes. Yes, certain grapes make fine wine flying solo but just as cultural diversity is a societal strength, so varietal diversity has its benefits. Each of the wines below (listed in order of my preference in each category) displays the synergy that embodies the classic sentiment of the whole being greater than the sum of its parts. 

First, I tasted a few Good Values. These wines emphasize fresh fruit and approachable tannins making for immediate enjoyment. And they are they are priced to make them ideal for a weeknight meal or to help stretch your holiday dollars. 

2016 Bonterra “Equinox” ($16) made with organic grapes, this merlot/petite sirah mix is open and friendly with ripe fruit, and a round, smooth texture. 

2016 Seven Deadly Red ($16) another welcoming wine, this one shows red berries and hints of black pepper from zinfandel and petite sirah (with dashes of cabernet sauvignon and merlot). 

2016 The Federalist “Honest” ($18) with President Lincoln on the label (of course), this one’s mostly merlot and zinfandel; expect mixed red berries, hint of tobacco, light spice, and smooth texture. 

For many, the Bordeaux formula blending various percentages of cabernet sauvignon, merlot, cabernet franc, malbec, and petit verdot is the template. The wines below are variations on this classic style. The prices increase but so does the flavor interest. 

2016 Ramey “Claret” ($42) this one is half cabernet sauvignon and one quarter merlot, with doses of malbec, syrah and petit verdot; it is accessible yet with good structure, showing sturdy dark fruits. 

2015 J. Lohr “Cuvée ST. E” ($50) emulating the wines of Saint-Émilion with four fifths cabernet franc and one fifth cabernet sauvignon, this is fleshy, ripe, and oaky, with roasted notes, and a plush finish. 

2016 Chalk Hill Red Wine Sonoma County ($70) at 86 percent cabernet sauvignon, this could legally qualify as a varietal wine. Supplemented with malbec, zinfandel, and merlot, it is rich with concentrated stewed berries lively presented, finishing with soft tannins. 

2016 Dry Creek “The Mariner” Dry Creek Valley ($50) roughly two thirds cabernet sauvignon with smaller amounts for the other Bordeaux varieties, this displays rather intense berries and currants with a full texture and husky finish.

2017 Chappellet “Mountain Cuvee” ($35) another wine mingling all five traditional Bordeaux grapes, it is lively, with sweet fruit, and savory character.  

2015 Fifty Harvests “Meritage” Napa Valley ($50) at three fourths cabernet sauvignon and one fourth petit verdot, this collaboration of winemakers Paul Scotto, Mitch Cosentino, and Mark Smith is deep, fruit forward, herbal, and freshly textured. 

2015 McIntyre “Per Ardua” Kimberly Vineyard ($60) the inaugural release of this SIP Certified, sustainably grown wine, from Arroyo Seco in Monterey County is dominated by merlot; hints of tobacco accent tight, dark fruit.

2016 Dry Creek “Meritage” ($30) using all five varieties but dominated by two thirds merlot, this opens with bright fruit that leads to a fairly full, yet supple wine. 

Still others take southern France as inspiration, blending grapes like syrah, grenache, mourvedre, and petite sirah. The ones in this report, though, also mix in Bordeaux and Italian grapes. This is California, after all. 

2015 Bootleg Red Wine ($38) a majority merlot fortified with petite sirah and syrah, this is an intense, rich style with blackberry, full and firm, with notes of peppery spice. 

2016 Adobe Road “Apex” ($76) let’s call this a Bordeaux (50 percent cabernet sauvignon/22 percent merlot) and Rhône (23 percent syrah/5 percent petite sirah) fusion, where the Bordeaux grapes provide savory structure and the Rhône grapes supply spicy, juicy fruit; another concentrated, ripe style. 

2016 Adobe Road “Redline” ($35) sort of a teenage Apex, with malbec sitting in for merlot and a significant addition zinfandel; its slightly less full but ripe fruit and spice are the dominant features. 

2017 J. Lohr “Pure Paso” ($27) a new red from this influential Paso Robles producer merges cabernet sauvignon and petite sirah to fine effect with smoky dark fruits, a burly frame and savory finish.

Finally, the uncharacterizable 2017 Upshot Red Blend ($28). This unconventional combination of merlot, zinfandel, malbec, riesling, and petit verdot is surprisingly balanced, but expectedly fresh and juicy, and a touch savory. 

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