MAKE IT A BUBBLY NEW YEAR

Sparkling wine is so popular some version of it is made in almost every country that produces wine. Sadly, most of it is drunk only during holidays or special occasions. That certainly is understandable, as these wines just seem to make any occasion seem more festive, more special. 

And that is why, this year, I decided to publish my annual sparkling wine column AFTER the holidays. My mission here is to convince you to drink sparkling wine throughout the year.

Sparkling wine is so popular some version of it is made in almost every country that produces wine. Sadly, most of it is drunk only during holidays or special occasions. That certainly is understandable, as these wines just seem to make any occasion seem more festive, more special. 

And that is why, this year, I decided to publish my annual sparkling wine column AFTER the holidays. My mission here is to convince you to drink sparkling wine throughout the year.

This year, I’ve been drinking a lot of Crémant d’Alsace. This bubbly from a region better known for amazing Rieslings and Gewurztraminers is produced from the classic Champagne varieties – pinot noir and chardonnay – though pinot blanc, pinot gris and riesling may make it into some blends. Crémant d’Alsace rosés, though, are made from 100% Pinot Noir. All wines made using the same method as in Champagne, usually described on labels as “Méthode Champenoise” or “Méthode Traditionnelle”. These wines, which are nonvintage can be approached as more affordable alternatives to nonvintage Champagne, with comparable quality.

Prosecco, that foamy, fruity northeastern Italian wine from the native glera grape, has vaulted in popularity in recent years. When I visited the region in 2001, I became aware of the reputation of Adami as one of the region’s best producers. The winery is known especially for its single vineyard Prosecco (a pretty rare thing in the region). Probably more important, though, is all its wines are distinguished by aging with extended lees contact before the secondary fermentation that produces the bubbles. And that secondary fermentation takes place in small batches throughout the year (the common process is to ferment shortly after harvest in one large batch). 

Ever heard of “Methode Cap Classique”? It’s a creative way of describing South African sparkling wine made in the traditional Champagne Method. MCCs often use traditional Champagne varieties, as well as more signature South African grapes like Chenin Blanc. These are up and coming bubbly that deserve your attention.

RECOMMENDATIONS:

Crémant d’Alsace 

  • Lucien Albrecht (a pioneer in the establishment of Alsace Crémant nearly fifty years ago): Brut ($23) mostly pinot blanc; fresh and crisp apple and apricot with pleasant saline and chalky notes. Brut Rosé ($23) 100 percent pinot noir; fresh strawberry and citrus, creamy palate
  • François Baur Brut Réserve (established in 1741, now farming biodynamically): pinot blanc, riesling, chardonnay, pinot gris; tropical fruit, lychee, soft palate
  • Dopff & Irion Rosé Brut (one of the first Alsace wineries to use the Champagne Method): 100% pinot noir; pretty cherry, crisp and upstanding 
  • Gustave Lorentz Brut (family owned since 1836, estate vineyards are organic): chardonnay pinot blanc and pinot noir; bright citrus, juicy, fresh and a little spicy 

Adami Prosecco 

  • “Garbel” Treviso Brut ($16) the family’s entry-level Prosecco; lemon, pear, honey
  • “Dei Casel” Valdobbiadene DOCG Prosecco Superiore Extra Dry ($20) a bit of sweetness, lightly floral with citrus
  • “Bosco di Gica” Valdobbiadene DOCG Prosecco Superiore Brut ($20), Adami’s best-known wine and a perennial favorite of mine; uplifting foam, brisk citrus with tangy finish
  • 2018 “Vigneto Giardino” Valdobbiadene DOCG Rive di Colbertaldo Asciutto  ($22) the first single-vineyard Prosecco ever made; opens with fruit punch, a hint of anise, mouthfilling and finishes with a blast of fruit

Methode Cap Classique 

  • Boschendal Brut Rosé ($28) mostly pinot noir, with a touch of pinotage and chardonnay from the estate’s top vineyards; displays notes of red berries, with some complexity 
  • 2013 Graham Beck Blanc de Blancs ($29) 100 percent chardonnay; a selection of the estate’s highest-quality chardonnay; crisp lemon wrapped in toasty crème brûlée; drinks intense, brisk and austere
  • 2015 Ken Forrester Sparklehorse ($30) 100% Chenin Blanc; hints of creaminess yield to tight, brisk citrus and apple, my favorite of the three

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