Readers of this column for any length of time may remember that Zinfandel is my favorite wine.
First, I love its typically exuberant berry fruit. It can be big and bold with high alcohol, jammy raspberry, black cherry or blackberry fruit and immense weight. Or it can be balanced, elegant, nuanced, though still with significant alcohol. With either, Zinfandel typically presents fresh, succulent fruit, with a brash, even a little wild character (often described as briar or bramble), a precise palate, though with moderate tannin, finishing with a balancing spicy accent.
Even better, Zinfandel is one of the best values in wine, considering the overall quality, which can rival the finest wines in the world. Almost all of the best wines are under $50; there are many excellent ones between $40 and $30; and countless good wines under $20.
Psychologically, a bonus is that Zinfandel is the quintessentially American grape: an immigrant that came here in the early 1800s [first New York and then California, from humble origins in Europe (in Croatia through Austria and southern Italy)] and has succeeded here better than anywhere else. And it really is the only grape that makes indisputably better wine in California than anywhere else.
Looking back, all of my recommended are from family owned wineries. Also, note that recommendations are listed in order of my preference within each category.
Good Values for Everyday:
Artezin. Conceived as an heirloom and heritage project focused on old vine zinfandel from family owned, sustainably farmed vineyards, Artezin also has branched out to include Rhone varieties but Zinfandel remains the flagship. The 2017 Old Vine Mendocino County ($16) is notable for forward fruit and hints of herbs.
The Federalist. Similar to Artezin, The Federalist emphasizes Zinfandel, though producing other wines, too. The label for each wine is graced with the likeness of a Founding Father. For the 2016 Dry Creek Valley ($18), it’s Alexander Hamilton and oaky blackberry and plum with fresh tannins. The 2016 Lodi Zinfandel ($18) features George Washington and pure cherry and raspberry, hint of black pepper.
Cline Family Cellars. In the late 1800s, the family’s ancestors settled in Contra Costa County east of Oakland near the town of Oakley and planted zinfandel and Rhône varieties. The winery was founded in 1982 with a focus on preservation and the family now is one of the largest holders of 100-plus-year-old vineyards in California. Their 2017 Old Vine ($12) is sourced from growers in the Mokelumne River AVA, arguably the most respected in the Lodi region. It presents ripe red berry fruit, with hints of pepper. The 2017 line Ancient Vines ($20) from some of the family’s oldest vineyards in Contra Costa, shows a bit more depth of brighter fruit and suggestions of black licorice.
Edmeades. Established in 1972, Edmeades has long been respected as a Zinfandel specialist, even as the winery has branched out to other varieties. The 2016 Mendocino County ($20) offers bright, juicy raspberry, a touch of caramel, admirable depth but is light on its feet; a hint of bitter herb in the finish.
Oak Ridge Winery. A family owned winery in Lodi, they work with various growers in Lodi to produce several brands, including OZV, dedicated to old vine zinfandel. The 2016 OZV Old Vine ($13) shows raspberry and blackberry with balanced acidity.
Oak Farm Vineyard. Another family owned and operated estate winery located in Lodi. The property has a 160-year history as a farm. The 2017 Tievoli Red Blend ($20) is 4/5ths zinfandel, the rest petite sirah and barbera. It tends to the sweeter end of the spectrum, while a peaty soil note offers intrigue.
More Expensive But Worth The Extra Money:
Dry Creek Vineyard. Established in 1972, Dry Creek Vineyard is the modern day pioneer of Dry Creek Valley wine. Most of its vineyards are farmed sustainably and the winery is also 100% Certified Sustainable. While a variety of wines are made, I have always been partial to the Zinfandels. The 2016 Dry Creek Valley Old Vine ($35), where toasty, woodsy, peppery aromas overlay abundant blackberry and raspberry, is a perennial favorite.
Sidebar Cellars. Sidebar is a new project from highly regarded Sonoma winemaker David Ramey focused on experimentation with diverse varieties. This Zinfandel is made with fruit sourced from the historic and certified sustainable Alegria Vineyard in the Russian River Valley, which dates to 1890. The 2016 Old Vine ($28) is firm and focused, with plum, blackberry, and black pepper. It is full, fresh, and lush.
Mettler. From a family that has been growing grapes in California’s Lodi appellation for over 100 years and has become leaders in organically and sustainably grown viticulture. The 2017 “Epicenter” Old Vine ($25) displays red and dark berries mixed with smoke and herbal notes, delivered with a fresh, fine-grained texture.
Breaking Bread Wines. A new project by Erik Miller, the winemaker of Kokomo Winery, to appeal to those interested in lower alcohol wines. The 2018 Zinfandel ($24) uses fruit from a nearly 50 year-old, 100% dry-farmed vineyard in Redwood Valley, Mendocino County. It is made using the whole-cluster fermentation (carbonic maceration) method, all native yeast for spontaneous fermentation, all native bacteria for malolactic fermentation, and no added sulphur. This has yielded a wine with a purity of fruit that should be appealing regardless of alcohol level.