Even as consumers experiment more with variety in their wine choices, Cabernet Sauvignon continues to reign as California’s premier wine. Maybe that is because as a group, the wines are better than ever. Other reviewers have noted this and it was born out in my recent tastings.
And as growers and winemakers learn more about the best conditions for cultivating the grape and the best practices for elevating those grapes into wine, these are yielding wines of exquisite balance – rich and ripe but resolved with definition and freshness.
Napa Valley is the undisputed leader of California Cabernet Sauvignon wines and it was in my tastings. But prices generally are higher than comparable wines from other regions. Luckily, there also are good value Cabernets (defined here as under $30) available from other regions. These wines are the focus of this column. My next column will feature Napa Valley.
First, there were a couple good ones carrying a California designation, meaning they contain grapes from multiple regions. Interestingly, they are from two large wine companies: 2017 Storypoint ($20), vinted by Gallo, shows forward fruit and 2016 Silver Palm ($22), part of the Jackson family of wines, is rather full and firm.
I found several from Lodi, the region in central California with a reputation for a good quality/price relationship. The call words for the wines below are a sweetness, richness and softness.
- 2016 The Federalist ($18), sporting Benjamin Franklin on the label, sports cherry and vanilla
- 2017 Mettler Estate Grown ($25) offers plum and blackberry
- 2015 Michael David “Earthquake” ($26) presents smoke and tobacco to offset deep fruit
I also was impressed with several wines from Paso Robles on the Central Coast, California’s most underappreciated cabernet sauvignon region. The 2017 Concannon ($19) tilts to fresh red berries finishing with a slight, appealing char. The other three wines were all from J. Lohr, one of Paso Robles pioneer wine producers dating to 1974. This family owned operation produces reliable quality at various price levels.
The 2016 Seven Oaks ($17) is a perennial good value. Enjoy its sweet, lush fruit. Then there was the 2016 Hilltop ($35), from high elevation, sustainably farmed vineyards. It is toasty with succulent fruit, with an herbal tinge and oaky note, finishing with a sleek texture and crisp tannin. And recently J. Lohr created “Signature” (2016, $100) as its entry into high-end wine. And it’s a successful one. It’s extracted, powerful, and rich with succulent fruit, and oaky espresso, spice and savory qualities.
My tastings also turned up a few good options from California’s northern wine regions. Concannon’s Mother Vine Livermore Valley Reserve (2016, $44) is produced with “Concannon Clones” that have long been a standard for wineries throughout the state. Its laden with plum and red fruits, a hint of tobacco, and nicely balanced with a lush palate and easy tannins.
The 2017 Benziger Sonoma Valley Reserve ($40) is made with organic grapes and delivers scents of wild herbs and green olive to preview flavors of blackberry with powdery tannins. Finally, the 2016 Shannon Ridge “Ovis” ($60), from Lake County’s High Valley, is quite seductive with lots of fruit accented with menthol and tobacco followed with a sleek palate closing with grippy tannins.