As I noted in my last column, my recent California Cabernet Sauvignon tastings were dominated by Napa Valley, both in quality and the number of wines tasted. Although the valley has a long agricultural history that has little to do with Cabernet Sauvignon, you wouldn’t know it if you just looked at the last forty years. Over this time, “Napa Cab” has gone from strength to strength. From winning the famous Paris tasting in 1976 to becoming one of the most prestigious wines in the world.
Also, as the region has evolved, numerous “sub-appellations” (such as Mt. Veeder, Rutherford, Howell Mountain, Stags Leap, Coombsville and Pritchard Hill, Spring Mountain, Atlas Peak, St. Helena, and Oak Knoll) have emerged to display localized character offering special appeal. The only drawback is prices continue to escalate.
Still, the wines below deliver the expected Napa Valley style and quality. My favorites displayed firm backbone and vigor, with mature fruit (often blackberry and black currant), classic herbal qualities, and notes of vanilla or toasted oak resulting in a whole that coheres all of its parts. Others were super ripe and broad mouthed but with enough vitality to appeal to my sensibilities.
I have listed recommended wines in order of my preference.
2015 Chappellet Pritchard Hill ($235) from a winery that has been producing highly prized Napa Valley wines since 1967, Pritchard Hill is its flagship and one of Napa’s iconic Cabernets. Beyond most our budgets, there is no questioning it is outstanding. Everything about this mountain grown wine is large scaled, with concentrated dark berries, richness and complexity throughout. It has the structure and savory complexity to evolve and drink well for at least 20 years.
2015 Chappellet Hideaway Vineyard ($125) with grapes from the rocky slopes of the Pritchard Hill estate, it is nearly as good as the flagship at half the price. Juicy and lively, yet luscious and satiny, it is wonderfully integrated.
2016 Ackerman Napa Valley ($95) made with grapes from the family’s certified organic Stonehaven Estate in Coombsville in southeastern Napa, the wine’s deep aromas and flavors of cedar, mint and cocoa integrate nicely with lively baking spice, vibrant, and firm tannins.
2016 Duckhorn Napa Valley ($78) making quintessential Napa Valley wines since 1978, this offers intensity of fruit and solid tannin with herbs and anise along with hints of tobacco and spice.
2016 Mi Sueno Lynn’s Vineyard ($95) from an estate owned vineyard on Mt. Veeder, Mexican-American immigrants Rolando (who has made wine at some of Napa’s most prestigious wineries) and Lorena (who co-owns the winery and their vineyard management company). Character reminiscent of fruit compote incorporates nicely with toasty oak and tobacco accents in a sleek texture.
2017 Ehlers Estate ($55) from the winery’s estate grown organic vineyard in Napa’s St. Helena sub-appellation, minty, herbal plum rich and solid. All of the proceeds from the sale of its wines support heart research.
2016 Gamble Napa Valley ($60) from a family of Napa Valley farmers since 1916 now making their own wine, expect a friendly wine with vibrant fruit and notes of spice and tobacco, finishing with solid tannins.
2016 Mount Veeder Napa Valley ($44) named after the sub-appellation on the southwestern edge of the valley, fruit from its high elevation vineyards yielded this good value wine with a smooth and viscous palate delivering chocolate and toasted oak.
2016 Mount Veeder Napa Valley ($44) named after the sub-appellation on the southwestern edge of the valley, fruit from its high elevation vineyards yielded this good value wine with a smooth and viscous palate delivering chocolate and toasted oak.
2017 Silver Ghost Napa Valley ($35) this newly launched Cabernet specialist named after a great grandfather’s favorite car, the 1909 Rolls-Royce Silver Ghost, has combined fruit from Calistoga and Yountville vineyards to produce an outstanding value.
2017 Acumen Mountainside ($65) from two organically farmed estate vineyards on Atlas Peak in the southwestern hills of the valley, this one’s rich but austere, with plump fruit and herbal, smoky notes finishing dry.
2016 Charles Krug Napa Valley ($39) the valley’s oldest winery, established in 1858, and still producing quality like this ripe, juicy, nicely restrained and centered wine; a good value.
2015 Ladera Estate ($60) estate grown grapes from high elevation vineyards on Mount Veeder and Howell Mountain yield a robust, dense wine with spicy herbs and juicy red fruit followed by firm tannins.
2016 J. McClelland Napa Valley ($45) winemakers Mitch Cosentino and Paul Scotto created this winery to honor long-time Napa Valley veteran John McClelland. This wine shows deep fruit, herbal accents, and a firm texture.
2016 Black Stallion Estate ($28) the Napa property of the Indelicato family, who came to California in 1924 and today is one of the largest wine companies in the U.S. located on the Silverado Trail in the Oak Knoll district of southeastern Napa; this good value offers a fairly rich, fruit forward character with a smooth but firm finish.