As I worked through my recent tastings of Italian wines, I couldn’t help but have my mind wander thinking about the whole country being shut down. I began to think of my tastings as a virtual tour, since I nor most anyone else can travel there.
I start my virtual vinous tour of Italy with Tuscany, specifically Chianti – the region and the wine.
The primary grape in Chianti wines is sangiovese. Typically, it yields wines with fresh, medium bodied wines with lively cherry and sometimes plum, currant, and raspberry and a sense of elegance. Sangiovese is often blended with small percentages of native varieties like canaiolo, colorino, malvasia nera and ciliegiolo and lately (under loosened production rules) cabernet sauvignon, merlot, and petit Verdot. Complexity is revealed in forest-like notes, and sometimes white pepper and a hint of star anise. enticing floral aromas herb, baking spice clove licorice vibrant, firm, linear palate and fresh acidity balanced, silky, smooth tannins.
Compared to the quality available, the wines are exceptional values. Those labeled simply Chianti are good everyday wines. The designation Chianti Classico indicates the wine comes the original zone and is often considered to produce the best wines. Wines labeled Riserva usually are selections of the producer’s finest fruit and receive extended time maturing in barrel and bottle before release. I also found several wines from the Chianti Rufina zone, which is generally considered to be the best sub-region after Chianti Classico.
OUTSTANDING
2016 Badia a Coltibuono Chianti Classico Riserva ($36) organically grown and vinified grapes from this historic (founded 1051) “Abbey of Good Harvest” estate; concentrated, lively fruit; graceful, elegant, balanced, nicely integrated, smooth tannins
2015 Selvapiana Chianti Rufina “Vigneto Bucerchiale” ($36) another property with a history dating to medieval times, now certified organic; 100 percent sangiovese, exuberant, minty, woodsy, earthy notes, herbs, smoke, licorice; elegant, refined tannins
EXCELLENT
2013 Castello di Brolio Chianti Classico Gran Selezione ($70) yet another medieval estate (founded in 1141); a selection of the best grapes from the estate vineyard; intense, bright fruits, toasty oak, mocha, licorice; firm, luscious palate, assertive tannins
2013 Nipozzano Vecchie Viti Chianti Rufina ($30) from another 11th century estate (see a pattern here?), follows a tradition of reserving a private collection for each newborn child in the family from the oldest vines (“vecchie viti”); elegant, polished, complex
2015 Brolio Chianti Classico Riserva ($30) sunny fruit, spice, mocha, smoky, integrated and balanced, tight structure, graceful tannins
2015 Querciabella Chianti Classico ($30) founded in 1974; made with 100% estate grown organic sangiovese grapes; creamy oak, espresso, tangy ripe fruit, earthy, herbal, rounded finish
VERY GOOD
2014 Ruffino Chianti Classico Gran Selezione Riserva Ducale Oro ($41) founded 140 years ago, now one of the most recognizable Chianti names; deep, ripe, intense, oaky
2014 Nipozzano Chianti Rufina Riserva ($26) vibrant, juicy, woodsy, hints of leather and spice cinnamon
2016 Selvapiana Chianti Rufina ($19) high toned, forest notes, graceful, licorice
2016 Badia a Coltibuono Chianti Classico “RS” ($16) lively fruit, dusty tannins, herbal, earthy
2017 Badia a Coltibuono Chianti Classico ($20), fresh straightforward, hint of tobacco, touch fruity on finish
2018 Renzo Masi Chianti Rufina ($12) entry level Chianti, made using grapes from around Chianti but mostly Rufina; typically fresh, accessible; ideal for daily drinking