In my experience, interest in southern Italy generally takes a back seat to places like Rome, Tuscany and Venice. But it is fascinating geography (and culture and history) and produces some of the peninsula’s most interesting wines. The focus is on indigenous grape varieties, some of which have been revitalized and transformed after years of indifference. This column highlights three of the several interesting regions.
Abruzzo is notable for its mountains, national parks, and Adriatic coast. But its wines haven’t received the attention they deserve. Fattoria La Valentina, is one of the producers dedicated to elevating the quality and status of Abruzzo wines. To this end, La Valentina produces only local plantings of montepulciano d’abruzzo, trebbiano d’abruzzo, and pecorino, with all its estates farmed organically or undergoing conversion. The 2016 Montepulciano d’Abruzzo ($15) is a fine value that justifies the effort.
I also was impressed by the Montepulciano d’Abruzzo from Azienda Agricola Binomio, a collaboration of La Valentina winemaker Sabatino Di Properzio and Stefano Inama (winemaker of Inama in the Veneto). In 2000, they planted a high elevation site near the Majella National Park with low-yielding vines known as the so-called “Africa Clone” (the clusters are an odd shape reminiscent of the African continent). The 2015 Riserva ($52) is a modern style wine with aspirations to world class recognition. It is ripe with mature tannins but evokes rusticity.
When visualizing Italy as a boot, Puglia is the heel. And Masseria Li Veli is notable of course for its wines but also for its work to reclaim a historic property, known as a masseria – an ancient farmhouse that was converted to a winery in the late 19th century – and transforming it into a state-of-the-art operation dedicated to producing sustainably farmed native varieties. The result is another round of flavorful, good value wines: an ebullient 2018 Primitivo “Orion” ($15) and a hardy, spicy 2018 Li Veli Salice Salentino “Passamante”($15).
In addition to Li Veli, the current owners the Falvo family founded the “ASKOS” project with the goal of rediscovering ancient Puglian varieties. The wines with this label are produced exclusively from ancient indigenous grapes to honor the region’s history with these unique grapes. I especially enjoyed a fresh, juicy 2018 Susumaniello ($21) and a crisp, aromatic 2019 Verdeca ($20).
The theme of a revival of indigenous grapes particularly applies to Sicily. And the Tasca family, one of Sicily’s oldest winemaking family’s, has been at the forefront of preserving and promoting these local grapes since the 1830’s. With five estates, Tasca d’Almerita also is passionate about sustainability both in the vineyards and inside the winery. Principles include efficient use and conservation of natural resources, low-impact environmental strategies, environmental protection and biodiversity, the wellness of workers, and the health of consumers.
Tenuta Regaleali estate, located within the Contea di Sclafani (in the inland Sicilian countryside southeast of Palermo) is the family’s home base. It has been in the Tasca family for almost two centuries. Under the Tenuta Regaleali label, they produce a dizzying array of fine values:
- 2017 Perricone “Guarnaccio” ($20) Guarnaccio is a local name for perricone, which was once widely planted across Sicily but fell out of favor due to phylloxera and increased investment in international grapes. Traditionally used as an important component of blends, usually with nero d’avola, this shows appeal as a varietal wine with strong tannins, high acidity and subtle earthiness.
- 2018 Catarratto “Antisa” ($22) An ancient grape and a late ripener (“antisa” translates to “waiting” in local dialect) has been one of the grapes in Marsala wines, Tasca d’Almerita sources Catarratto from a high-elevation site, around 3,000 feet. Antisa highlights the grape’s naturally high acidity and ability to create a fuller bodied wine using no oak.
- 2016 Nero d’Avola “Lamùri” ($20) Lamùri translates to “love” in the local Sicilian dialect, this 100 percent nero d’avola wine, is fresh, elegant, and full of finesse; a fine example of why I like Nero d’Avola so much.
- 2018 Le Rose ($15) pink wine made from nerello mascalese. This is no trend-seeking rosato as it has been produced since 1961. It is delightfully high acid and quite full for a pink wine.
- 2018 Grillo “Cavallo delle Fate” ($20) an ancient variety that is a spontaneous cross between zibbibo and catarratto, grillo, which means “cricket” in Italian, is historically known as an important grape used in the production of Marsala but is also incredibly dynamic as a dry varietal wine as this wine evidences.
- 2018 Bianco ($15) a blend of native inzolia, grecanico, catarratto and chardonnay, this is well-rounded with a crisp acidity that makes for an easy-to-drink white wine.
- 2016 Nero d’Avola ($15) fermented in stainless steel and aged in large oak barrels, this red is aromatic, peppery, and very fresh.
More recently, the Tasca family has ventured to other historic sites on the island. One is the high elevation vineyards surrounding Mount Etna (the tallest, most active volcano in Europe), an area that has gained renewed attention from many producers in recent years. in 2007, they founded Tenuta Tascante (a portmanteau of Tasca + Etna) with estate vineyards focused on the native varietals of nerello mascalese and carricante. The 2016 Nerello Mascalese “Ghiaia Nera” ($21) the volcanic, sandy, calcium-rich slopes of Mount Etna, generate a dark wine with balanced acidity, floral aromas, and bountiful tannins.
2017 Carricante “Buonora” ($21) Carricante is an ancient white grape indigenous to Mount Etna that delivers wines with salty citrus qualities and minty herbal notes. It is considered a rediscovered varietal, even though it’s existed for over a thousand years on the island and possesses a high natural acidity. This one is a really fine example.
Regaleali also acquired two estates on smaller neighboring islands, Tenuta Whitaker (on the ancient island of Mozia and Sallier de La Tour in the Monreale) and Tenuta Capofaro (on Salina in the Aeolian archipelago).
One result of the Tenuta Whitaker project (a collaborative effort with the Whitaker Foundation to reestablish the historical vineyards as they would have been planted by Joseph Whitaker, a British settler who purchased Mozia in the 19th century) is the 2018 Mozia Grillo ($22). Grillo is a traditional blending grape that is a cross between moscato and catarratto. Mozia is a heritage site that houses an active archeological dig and a study of the Phoenecian settlement dating back to 800 BCE. This is a lovely wine.
In 2002, the Tasca family founded Tenuta Capofaro with the purchase of malvasia vineyards on the island of Salina. The estate vineyards, which lead from the mountains to the sea, surround the family’s five-star resort where visitors can enjoy the wines paired to local cuisine and more. A highlight of their current production is the 2018 Didyme ($26). It is wonderfully fresh and elegant.