Chardonnay’s place at the pinnacle of popularity in the U.S. has lasted for nearly four decades. It is the most planted grape and number one in sales volume. I guess this shouldn’t be a surprise. Its adaptability to different growing conditions and winemaking styles at least partly explains this.
There was a period of winemaking excess, primarily characterized by what is now considered overuse of oak. This eventually spurred a bit of a backlash, particularly among proponents urging consumers to drink ABC – Anything but Chardonnay. But consumers didn’t listen and kept drinking all styles. It seems the consumers’ motto has been Always Buy Chardonnay.
More recently, winemakers have found a better balance. With Burgundy as the benchmark, what has been described as traditional practices – use of new oak barrels for fermentation and aging, malolactic fermentation, and aging on the lees – employed judiciously and tailored to the quality of the fruit, can produce delightfully balanced and enticingly complex wines.
Done right, this produces in the best Chardonnays (in my opinion) wines of lush texture with vibrant acidity accented variously with notes of cream, butter, toast, vanilla, baking spice, butterscotch and nuts. The fruit will be intense and the grape’s natural citrus may be joined with apple, pear, peach, melon, fig or tropical fruit, depending on the climate of the vineyard and the ripeness at harvest.
With such an enviable combination of body and depth with refreshing acidity, it’s not surprising Chardonnay has been such a success. The wines below (in order of my personal preference but all are recommended) deftly walk the line between opulence and freshness, pure fruit and richness, delivering complexity with oak influence more as seasoning than dominant flavoring.
Most impressive in my tasting this year were four single vineyard wines from Ramey Wine Cellars, which I found emblematic of this style. Founded in 1996 by prominent winemaker David Ramey and his wife Carla (who handles the business side) after nearly twenty years at some of California’s best wineries, Ramey Wine Cellars is one of California’s leading, family-owned and operated wineries.
The winery produces more than two dozen different wines, including Cabernet Sauvignon, Bordeaux blends, Syrah, and Pinot Noir from vineyards in the Napa Valley and Sonoma County. But it is Chardonnay that has most distinguished Mr. Ramey throughout his forty-year career, during which he has become one of the most influential winemakers in California. And his record of success enables him access to some of the most highly regarded vineyards.
These 2016 vintage wines (each $65) are lush yet structured, self-possessed yet robust, richly textured yet balanced with ebullient acidity. It was impossible to pick a favorite.
- Ritchie Vineyard (Russian River Valley) dramatic impact, luscious oak, loads of mouthwatering fruit, luxurious palate
- Rochioli Vineyard (Russian River Valley) concentrated, focused, powerful, balanced with graceful texture
- Woolsey Road (Russian River Valley) bursting with zesty, well defined fruit, richly textured
- Hyde Vineyard (Carneros) intense, precise, juicy, elegantly textured
The wines below (in order of personal preference) deftly walk the line between opulence and freshness, pure fruit and richness, delivering complexity with oak influence more as seasoning than dominant flavoring.
2017 Blue Farm Laceroni Vineyard ($70). Located in the southwestern Russian River Valley near Graton, this is oaky rich, concentrated, and lively, with hints of cinnamon.
2017 MacRostie Dutton Ranch ($46). This Russian River Valley vineyard is one of the most prestigious in California. This example offers toasty oak, rich fruit; drinks fresh but soft.
2018 Lombardi Sonoma Coast ($44). Blends its fruit nicely and balances definition, richness, and juicy acidity with creamy notes.
2018 Chappellet Grower Collection El Novillero Vineyard ($49). This Carneros based wine shows brisk fruit, light creaminess, and a supple finish.
2017 Oceano Spanish Springs Vineyard ($38). This San Louis Obispo vineyard presents forward fruit, hint of oak, drinks firmly.
2017 Ram’s Gate Sonoma Coast ($46) opening freshness softens and broadens in the finish
2017 Duckhorn Huichica Hills Vineyard ($58). Carneros fruit provides a nicely spiced, lightly buttery, rich wine.
2018 Frank Family Carneros ($38). Lush texture is balanced with a linear streak.