As I have noted here, in recent years, Rosé has become quite popular with the American consumer after decades of suspicion. Certainly, there was and continues to be an attraction to sweet blush wines like “White Zinfandel”.
These days, though, it is the dry (or mostly dry) wines that have enjoyed attention. It seems like every winery in most every wine-producing region produces a pink wine in their portfolio. Luckily, there is more than enough quality among these crimson colored wines to satisfy even serious wine drinkers.
Europeans have known for a long time the joy of drinking a good dry pink wine. The most common term is Rosé (French) but you may also see Rosato (Italian) and Rosado (Spanish). These days you are more likely to see Rosé.
This popularity is focused on dry wines modeled after European styles, not the sweet “blush” wines that have been popular for years. A variety of red grapes are used and the best wines are easy drinking, refreshing, yet flavorful. They exhibit bright, fresh fruit ranging from strawberry, cherry, raspberry, and cranberry to rhubarb, pomegranate, and watermelon. Expect a flavor profile similar to their red siblings, while they drink more like white wines.
Enjoy these wines as an apéritif or with a full range of light foods. Compare European and American counterparts. Buy a couple of each and compare.
Because of their vibrant freshness and lively fruit, pink wines are almost always best drunk young, so look for the most recent vintages available. Note, all wines here are 2019 vintage, unless otherwise stated.
There are essentially three ways to make a pink wine. The most common method is to crush red grapes and leave the juice in contact with the grape skins (the source of a wine’s color) only briefly. The second technique is a process called “saignée” in which a certain amount of juice is “bled off” shortly after red grapes are crushed. The third approach involves blending white and red wines to the desired effect.
Among Rosé devotees, France is the prime source. There is a dizzying array of French Rosés from all over the country (including Alsace, Loire, Champagne and Bordeaux) but most notably the south – places like Provence, Languedoc-Roussillon, Bandol, Rhône Valley, and Tavel.
Provence in particular, the area along the Côte d’Azur, has a long history with Rosé as a prominent drink. And the Côtes de Provence appellation, where the wines are mostly grenache (often with cinsault and syrah), is especially popular. Coincidentally, my recommended wines are from wineries located a short distance from Saint-Tropez. Since you can’t travel there right now, imagine looking over the Mediterranean while sipping one of these delicate, refreshing wines.
From Château Minuty, an 18th century estate using sustainable methods, there is the fragrant and floral, lightly spicy and tart but smooth “M de Minuty” ($23) and the estate grown “Prestige” ($30) offering a suggestion of creaminess. Domaine Cala, owned by Los Angeles celebrity Chef Joachim Splichal, has produced the savory, estate grown “Classic” ($18). A historic property, Commanderie de Peyrassol offers the fresh, crisp, juicy Cuvée de la Commanderie ($20).
The nearby Côtes du Rhône is a fine source of good values. The Cellier des Dauphins Reserve ($11) shows a surprising textural component at this price from aging a short time on the lees. And Domaine La Manarine ($14) from its perch near Avignon and Château Mourgues du Grès “Fleur d’ Eglantine” ($14) from the Costières de Nîmes subregion both feature organic viticulture.
Rhône/Provençal style wines also are popular in among many California wineries. Try another organic from Mendocino County’s Bonterra ($16) for its. I also found two good value wines from Paso Robles. Smashberry ($13) from Miller Family Vineyards, a large vineyard owner in Paso Robles, and Pink Pedals ($15) an all grenache wine from Chronic Cellars owned by two brothers whose family owns the highly regarded Peachy Canyon winery.
While Rosé is produced in Burgundy, particularly from the village of Marsannay it is a minor production. But many California wineries have latched on to pinot noir as the grape of choice for Rosé. This is likely because the grape typically produces lighter colored wines anyway and tends to reveal its primary aromas and flavors at earlier ripeness than, say, cabernet sauvignon.
And these were some of the favorites of my tasting, especially the Rodney Strong Russian River Valley ($25), which shows juicy fruit, good body and flavor interest worthy of serious food. The MacRostie Russian River Valley ($28) with fruit from a block of Thale’s Vineyard, the Jackson Estate Panorama Vineyard ($30) with fruit from a vineyard in Arroyo Seco, and Pisoni Vineyard’s “Lucy” ($19) from the Santa Lucia Highlands were not far behind in enjoyment.
Similarly, Bordeaux produces a small amount of Rosé. But Napa’s Ehlers Estate Sylviane ($32), made with cabernet sauvignon and cabernet franc, turned out to be my favorite of the tasting. New winemaker Laura Díaz Muñoz has a winner with this one for its intense flavor, minerality creamy texture.
From Italy’s Veneto region, the Pasqua “11 Minutes” ($20) reflects vineyards that line the shores of Lake Garda. This wine is half the native corvina and surprisingly one-fourth the white trebbiano. 11 minutes refers to the length of time the winemaker allows for contact between juice and skins. From California, the 2018 Oak Ridge OZV Primitivo ($15) is intriguing to this longtime Zinfandel afficionado, as primitivo (originating from Apulia) is zinfandel’s genetic sibling.
In Spain, tempranillo is the major red grape and the Cune Rosado ($14) stands out for its darker color, a result of longer skin contact yielding a more full-flavored wine. For a California version, “Rose Against the Machine” ($24), by Napa Valley’s Anarchist Winery uses Clarksburg fruit to produce a wine with razor sharp acidity.
Finally, for those of you who still prefer sweet, quaffable wines, Ron’s Chillable Pink ($13) from River Road Vineyards in Sonoma fits the bill with soft fine/foamy bubbles. And only 7.1% alcohol.